Кремль (Kremlin)

I've lately been on a roll for Soviet vintage perfumes and this beauty naturally crowned my list of desires. The tower-shaped bottle (I've been lucky to get one with the turreted cap still intact) is delightful, but its contents are nothing short of a masterpiece. In essence, it is a powdery, pomade-y rose with a hint of sweet incense as it develops. It reminds me a lot of Rouge Hermes — one of my all-time favorite oldtime-style powderbombs. But Kremlin is softer and sweeter, with geranium and carnation in the background and a somewhat aldehydic finish on top. I have nearly a dozen Soviet-era perfumes, and I think I find this one to be the crown jewel.

The main thing is to find it in good condition, and then... A wonderful bergamot-apple start. Morning in the merchant gardens of the ancient part of Russian cities. Despite the tenderness, creaminess, powderiness of further development, this perfume does not appeal to sensuality, but calls to admire the "Collateral Beauty" of everything around. Kremlin secretaries could wear this to work during the day. This is one of the most beautiful vintage fragrances. I even agree to the cologne.

I tried this when it was labeled Kremlin. The bottle is a fabulous turreted tower. The scent is less loved by me. A sharp, almost overpowering woody scent that reminds me of patchouli almost overpowers the other notes, but that dies down a bit and the citrus elements lighten it up considerably. There's not a lot of bottom on this scent, so I didn't end up keeping it, though the bottle was so cool I was tempted. But I just didn't wear it.