Rhubarb & Custard

SMOJ. Hands down the best, truest rhubarb I’ve ever encountered in a fragrance. The straight liquid is the real deal with a hint of buttery creaminess. On, it’s quite literally rhubarb and... custard. It’s taken me straight back to childhood and memories of that strange and fascinating red tinted celery whose tartness pairs like no other with sugar when baked into pastry. Rhubarb manages to maintain its tart and sharp edge regardless of the amount of added sugar and somehow enhances everything it’s paired with. Much like salt. Though nothing like salt at all. A culinary marvel of vegetation. Botanically a vegetable, legally and culinarily a fruit, with a flavor like nothing else. I’ve never had rhubarb with custard (perhaps a British thing?) but can say I’ve been missing out on something very special. This pairing does, however, remind me of a childhood treat of sabayon and cooked strawberries. And if you’ve not experienced that wonder, I insist you find it or learn to make it. A simple custard of three ingredients: egg yolks, sugar, Marsala wine. For some loft, fold in freshly whipped cream. Sweat some cut strawberries in a pan with or without sugar. Pour over custard. Best eaten while custard still warm. You’re welcome. Rhubarb and Custard has put all other gourmand fragrances to shame (admittedly, a low bar in the fragrance world of today). It also designates all other “rhubarb” fragrances as pretenders. Rhubarb and Custard is a wearable dessert without being recognizably so. No syrupy sugars, candies, or overwrought vanillas. No fruit fantasies or teenage aspirations of transforming oneself into a walking cupcake. This is mouth moistening adult pleasure. Enjoy your edible self all alone or in the company of others. They’ll likely have no idea why they’re enjoying the nearness of you.

I've never had as immediate of an emotional reaction to a fragrance as I did to this - I look one sniff and my eyes welled up. It caught me off guard! I spent my childhood summers making rhubarb pies with my grandparents, and this immediately brought me back. I've never loved gourmands, but have always had a penchant for interesting vanilla scents - my signature for the last few years has been commodity gold. My favorite thing about commodity gold is how juniper sparkles above the creamy, comforting base, and I think rhubarb & custard has touched on a similar magic. To me, the rhubarb is sharp and a little acidic from the jump, and managers to not disappear as the scent wears. I feel deeply myself when wearing this fragrance in a way that's hard to explain - I feel like my childhood and adult selves are wrapped around me in a protective blanket. I think this fragrance CAN work on slow sun-gold summer mornings and breezy evenings, but I am so excited to wear it into fall and winter. I get a little bit of mint in the top notes, and definitely the hay as it wears, but on me it maintains a certain dryness throughout the wear and doesn't veer into weed/something more dank.

It is unreal how much the opening of this fragrance smells like actual pie, complete with buttery, flaky crust. The rhubarb gives it just a touch of slightly tart brightness, but isn’t an overwhelming presence in the fragrance to my nose. As the scent wears throughout the day, the pie crust/graham cracker effect gives way to a soft fruity vanilla that sits fairly close to the skin and has moderate to good longevity. However, I have to say, I’m still trying to decide what the best performance conditions are for Rhubarb & Custard... When I first tried it, it was a hot day in July, and it performed and projected like a beast, almost to the point of being too much. I thought, “Better put this aside until the fall.” But when the weather cooled down, the sillage did too. Further experimentation is required!

Rhubarb & Custard... Oh, how I love you. Initially, I wasn't a fan. Now? It sings on my skin. The tart opening with the sourness of the rhubarb doesn't last too long on me, but that vanilla custard dry down lasts from when I put it on until I wash it off which is usually about 18 or 19 hours. I put it on before bed and don't bother wearing anything else the next day, it's that addictive. There's a period where the custard meets with the zing of citrus and rhubarb and it's really quite intriguing. It does actually remind me of stewed rhubarb and custard that I had as a kid and have occasionally now as an adult. I cannot praise this as much as I want to. It does seem to be very subjective, though. I would say try before you buy.

Realistic rhubarb crumble. It's so beautiful. I just love it ... The citruses are just there to support the rhubarb acidity much longer. In the end I just smell rhubarb (if I didn't know there was some citruses in there). The biscuit (or cake, crumble whatever) note is noticeable from the first spray and stays there. It stays linear over time. I was worried that this would decay into some sort of abstract vanilla scent but it does not. I wore that one during today's heat wave and despite the ratings down there this perfume is perfect to wear during summer time. It's a light gourmant, not heavy at all. Rhubarb desserts are a Summer thing after all so why not :)