Vanilla Smoke

Definitely a departure from most vanilla-dominant fragrances, Aftelier Perfumes' Vanilla Smoke, my first try from the house, combines a very dense vanilla (boozy, cake-like) with darker elements, which, while feeling like oud and incense, are likely the result of a heavy does of saffron absolute, mixed gently with woods, coumarin, and ambergris. It's really a sumptuous vanilla rendered more challenging. I analogize it slightly to Kerosene Blackmail, which isn't simply berries, vanilla, and amber, but rather when the amber is very resinous and oud is added, it becomes a dual reality of sweet and harsh, or sweet an acerbic, that has to be enjoyed thoroughly. It's not the instant relief of the blend that's the reward; it's the harmony of generally-opposing sides. The case is the same with Vanilla Smoke, which, as its name suggests, pairs the sweetest note of them against something devoid of sweetness as imagined. I won't go as far to say it's in my very favorite vanilla creations, as I still prefer the note in its slightly boozy rendition in Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanille, which many seem to hail as their favorite, but what's done in Vanilla Smoke is surely more daring, if nothing else, than SDV. It performs exceptionally for an EDP, feeling more like an extrait from the onset, but its pricing of $180 for 30ml gives me some pause, as, despite the exquisiteness of the juice, $6 per ml is steep for non-sampling prices, but it's understandable that in a smaller operation with smaller batches, the margins need to be higher and the markup is less, given the likely involvement in this case of authentic ingredients (well, maybe not the ambergris) of high quality. Bravo to Mandy for this creation, as I look forward to trying a couple of her other EDPs of which I bought samples. 8 out of 10

Mandy Aftel is absolutely my most favorite perfumer. I have been hoping her next release would be more gourmand, less floral-- and here it is! This perfume is most true to its description in the perfume rather than the EDP format. I compared both formats and discovered, on my skin, that the perfume has an incomparable lushness vs the EDP. While both are lovely, the perfume has instant smoky tea depth. The vanilla is more dark and syrupy, and the mandarin hints more softly in the background. The boozy scotch/bourbon smokiness is tempered within minutes. I can not wait to buy a full bottle! I think those wanting a slightly more orange fruit-forward, less smoky form would prefer the EDP. For me... The perfume is exactly what I have been looking for. Exotic black tea without the headache I have experienced from chemical-based perfumes. (I.e. Kilian's tea scents...) the vanilla is absolutely incredible and stands out full in the front, no apologies, no cotton candy cheapness. Beautiful, yet again! I layered this with Aftelier's Amber and really loved the interplay of double ambergris. This is a natural perfume so expect a more subtle silage.

First of all, can't stand the new format Fragrantica. But on to it: I smell wood, oud, then ambergris, then vanilla and coumarin. I don't smell anything remotely citrus at any time. The saffron, oud, and ambergris gives this ever so slight an animalic feel, but the opening is initially T-Rex toned down considerably; it's not your vanilla cupcake. I like it because it's more of a smoky Lapsang Souchong Tea vanilla-coumarin, rather than all-frosted sweetness. This scent is thoughtful, meditative and different. I have the small parfum but I think I might get the larger edp (I think her larger bottles are edp). I would advise gourmand lovers to steer clear of this as you might find the opening and middle phase challenging. And you need to have that acquired taste for Lapsang Souchong.

One of the best smoky vanillas I've sampled. The woody notes are very intensive at first, and it's almost a leather quality perfume. After it begins to dry down, it becomes a gourmand type of perfume, sweet from the tonka and fruity from the orange. This would be perfect for a fall day with the combination of vanilla, smoke, and fruit. I find that the vanilla sort of dies out in the drydown, though, so if you're looking for a very solid vanilla all through the wear, I don't think this is it. I just like the way it changes. Also, as it's a natural, it's doesn't have very much projection and is more of a skin scent, so that's another thing to consider.

A suede-smoked vanilla. This is a rather unusual vanilla composition — it keeps the sweetness but consciously steers away from anything edible or gourmand. The vanilla is paired with a suede-like leather softness, while a faint tea note carries a smoky nuance. The result is a smoky, leathery vanilla with a quiet hint of tea leaves in the air. A darker, more introspective take on vanilla. Worth a try if you enjoy something off the beaten path.