Black Walnut

Black Walnut is a limited edition perfume created by John Biebel from January Scent Project for American Perfumer. When I first read the blurb for this fragrance in 2022 and saw the perfumer behind it, I entered the lottery, as I knew it would turn out to be something unique. I think John does some of the most unique perfumes out there. Moreover, as a child, I loved eating walnuts fresh from the three or after they'd fall off. I was lucky enough to win and amazed at how accurately the perfume fit the brief. It instantly transported me back to my childhood. I used to eat dozens of these, maybe hundreds. Gathered them, peeled off the husk, cracked them open, and ate the kernels. My hands would stain pitch black in the process as they contain this natural pigment called juglone. It was a pain washing it out of the skin. But man, they sure did taste good. That whole memory gets back to me every single time I spray this perfume. The whole process, the places, the flavors, all captured and unfolded so vividly. So if you ever went through the process of eating walnuts fresh, from the husk, that's exactly what this perfume smells like, 100%. If you haven't, first, you missed out. But no worries. You can still do it. Or sample this perfume. It really is amazing how John captured all the flavors and delicate nuances in this composition. In the opening, you definitely get the green, slightly citrus-like smell which resembles the husk of the fruit. Once you're done with the husk, you get to the shell, and then, the fruit. Here, you get some soft woody facets, a nutty, milky, slightly vanilla flavor, and a noticeable bitterness. The woody smell hints at the shell, while the nutty-milky-vanillic accord to the kernel, the edible part. The kernels are naturally lined with a thin skin, which tastes really bitter. And that's what the bitter smell in here wants to evoke. The perfume also features some other subtle notes and accords, after all, it is a fragrance, and therefore it is shaped as one. Some soft floral accords as well as soothing cashmeran accord. In the base, it gets slightly more earthy and woody, as the vetiver and the sandalwood make themselves more assertive. But overall, it feels quite linear, and the subtle transitions could easily go unnoticed. A very comforting scent. Woody, nutty, a tad sweet, and a tad bitter as well. To me, it also has a nostalgic feel, making it that much special. Hands-down one of my best purchases in 2022, and one of the most unique perfumes I have ever smelled. If you are looking for unique compositions, then keep an eye on anything John has to offer, you will not be disappointed. IG:@memory.of.scents

My friend John Biebel gave me this as a gift this year, and I am enthralled by its design. Pinning down a proper nut accord is no small feat for the perfumer, as the various materials used require a deft hand and an understanding of gestalt in creating such accords. The black walnut, unlike its English walnut cousin for which most are far more familiar, is more complex to the gustatory and olfactory palate. There is this distinct bittersweet, earthy tang that may come as a surprise to those who experience it for the first time, with a mushroom umami and musty density to its finish. This can also describe their delicious aroma as well. John captures their essence here, taking care to impart the inherent woodiness of the nut, bridging bitterness with a soft sweetness. He sneaks in this orange blossom that seems to elevate the effect as such an accord shares the same qualities—the dualities of bitter and sweet, fragrant and pungent. I also think that using Cashmeran here is an ingenious move as its own velvety, woody earthiness anchors the effect into the dry down. The overall sensation in Black Walnut is that of contemplation; its meditative, allaying in feel. One must be open to appreciate a nut accord in perfume without the praline or dessert—while vanilla is here, it is a subtle blender to the experience: this is no conventional gourmand. It is, however, a poetic beauty.

I wonderful fragrance-friend sent me a generous sample of this fragrance and omg...this is soooo delicious!! It is light, fresh sexy-floral, warm and smooth, creamy and vanillic all at the same time! I'm absolutely LOVING this!!! Sad to hear that it was a limited-time release... If anyone has a suggestion for a dupe or replacement, please let me know.

Photorealistic walnut opening, sunbaked vanilla, creamy blond woods. Faint, almond milk laced backdrop. Transforms into walnut “fat”. Weap-y florals. Traces of tonka. I wish I could buy a full bottle

If anyone wants to unload their bottle of Black Walnut by American Perfumer, I'm interested. :-)

Black Walnut is the exclusive release for American Perfumer by John Biebel of January Scent Project. I’m not intimately with the black walnut trees (or their fruits) that are the main inspiration from the fragrance, but I get a rich, woody, nutty, syrupy (but not sweetly so) blend that’s quite unlike any fragrance I’ve ever smelled before, but clearly has an evocative power for both John and also Dave Kern of the American Perfumer boutique. It seems a fitting conjuring of dark fruits and nuts under tree, as there’s something vaguely outdoorsy about the blend with its retrained sweetness, but I frankly like that it doesn’t collectively remind me of something specific, adding to the fantasy aspect for me even though it’s perhaps uncannily on-the-nose for John and Dave. Unsurprisingly, like the January Scent Project releases, Black Walnut performs very well, a rich elixir that I only needed a few sprays of to be pretty darn engulfed for hours. I’m lucky to have a bottle from this limited run, priced reasonably at $125 for 30ml, similar to the other limited edition releases from American Perfumer, and I’d certainly recommend that others keep their eyes open if they want to have a shot at similar offerings from American Perfumer (i.e. Colorado and Bloodline from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz). 7 out of 10

This triggered childhood memories for me, though not of walnut trees: more like aging paper in attics, that warm, gluey, woody smell of summer heat in an old house. Agree with the reviewer who said this was dark and syrupy with another note they can't place–I don't mind it though. Is it the white floral coming through strangely? I love this, will continue to wear my sample, and will miss it when it's gone.

I bought this perfume when I signed up for the limited edition lottery this November. Specifically, I was researching to find a perfume that captured the scent of fresh green walnut husks as they fall on the ground in the fall. I had been on a farm full of them and was steeped in the fresh bright green citrusy scent. To me, the smell is a bit minty, with limonene and a bit of fresh pine, chlorophyll (if it has a smell) and tiny sea-undertones like fresh algae or seaweed. I love finding and supporting niche perfumers, so I eagerly bought this bottle. Unfortunately from the very start this scent has none of the citrus bright tones I just described. It smells exactly like the black walnut bitters I have in my liquor cabinet: nutty and syrupy. It also has a very short silage, so it doesn’t last on me for long. I am looking for a bright citrus scent to layer it with so I can wear it more.

As another reviewer had mentioned, I had hoped for the bright and nostalgic smell of black walnut fruits. However, this is far more dark and syrup-y. I’m not sure why but on me the citrus-y green fruit did not come through, and unfortunately that is really what I was seeking. Despite the disappointment missing out on that nostalgic smell, it still is not a very pleasant fragrance to my nose. Dark, syrup-y, with an odd off-note that I can’t quite place but is sharp and ever present. A waxy almost medicinal ointment smell. This unfortunately just didn’t work for me.

Black wallnut is a perfume that realistically re-creates a smell of a wallnut nut. Its not about the wood, its not the scent of wallnuts or pecans you can buy from the store. This perfume smells like a fresh "green" nut that just fell from the tree, you opened it up and started to eat. Those who ate fresh wallnut will know. Those who never tried it, it is a soft, a little green and fleshy, almost milky nuttiness, with gentle sweetness and a touch of astrigency. It is a rather unique taste and scent. In Black Wallnut you will get exactly that, but with a touch more sweetness, which is what turns this scent of wallnuts into a perfume. I cant break down this perfume by notes listed above, as they are blended to convey 1 scent - scent of wallnuts. It is great artistic accomplishment as far as scent recreation (and original idea) which is quite natural smelling, but i am not sure yet if its "wearable" in the perfume sense of the word. I usually dont need to do more wearings to make up my mind, but with this perfume i would have to. Nevertheless, it is a very nice and unique perfume, wearable and at a good pricepoint. Update: This stuff is quality. It is a scent of wallnut with a touch of modern chypre. Very long lasting and unique. A keeper

If you sign up for the email list from American Perfumer, they occasionally have lotteries for LE bottles of perfumes. Things generally roll around once a year for a certain fragrance, usually 30-50 bottles each lottery. There was just a lottery for this the past weekend I I finally got my full sized bottle!

I just want to say that’s it’s terribly sad that this was just a limited edition thing because this perfume is amazing. There’s something about it that is just so comforting and warm but still fresh. It’s beautiful.