Tabachnaya Tuberosa

I have just received this fragrance after waiting for it to get to me froim Russia. It more than meets my high expectation (based on Luca Turin's comments). The tuberose is a beast, but it is not the spice bomb that Tuberose 3 is. I have not smelled Ford's Tuberose, but I imagine that one being a bit of a spice bomb too. I find the tobacco notes a lot more subtle here than in some of the usual subjects (Josier, Ford,); It is long and lingering. I am not sure it it the most intense note. the tuberose is stronger. but there are lots of florals and incense too and the now nearly mandatory agarwood. But this one does not remind me of any fragrance. It is rare that this happens in scents these days, given the somewhat limited palette of genuinely natural elements. I think most would say this leans feminine but I find it unisex. It is a refined beauty, natural, classy, but not old fashioned or grandmothery. Old Russian perhaps, but in the gentrified sense of Nabokov's family. This house is not well-known in the US. I think those seeking adventurous experiments should sample this or others. For example, Venetian Red does have some initial but quickly passing connection, to Magnificent Secretions--a fragrance that is impossible to ignore--for better or worse. In other. words, Anna Zworykina has quite a range in her work. This is what niches should do--explore the relatively unchartered depths of natural notes blended in powerful and at times challenging ways.

I have ordered this and will write a review after I have received it. I am surprised that no one has mentioned Luca Turin since he quite likes this one; "As in the brilliant Twilly d’Hermès, tuberose here subs in for the lavender in a traditionally masculine coumarin context, to excellent effect. Though Zworykina’s stated guiding principle is a perfumery of entirely natural materials, it somehow smells pleasurably of photocopier machines. ts"

Such a different use of both tobacco and tuberose! Both notes are usually loud and sweet- she went the opposite way. On my skin it was dry, dry, and not sweet at all. Like when you wear ear plugs and some frequencies are blocked out. Pleasant, different, but there are so many other Zworykinas that blow my mind. If this was the only one I had tried of hers, I would have cherished it, but now I'm spoiled...

Tobacco and florals - not just tuberose, but that purple powder iris and violet flowers as well. Really nicely balanced... not too much tobacco which can be a deal breaker for me. There's also quite a bit of incense and on longer wear I get incense and wood. Found her shop on Etsy and will try some others...

This is a good example that, 100% natural perfume has its limits, even essential flaws, which take great skill to overcome. This perfume definitely has a significant dose of tuberose CO2 extracts(or other forms of natural extracts). Counterintuitively, tuberose natural extracts smells NOTHING like the real flower . The closest thing I can think of is dry, cool-tone-powdery, crushed old tea leaves . Mind you, tuberose natural extracts is not cheap, probably even more expensive than most of natural flower extracts, but, do you really wanna spend hundreds of dollars to smell like...old tea leaves? Except for tuberose, I also sense a heavily dusty mixture of notes piling on the flower, with a very subtle smoke feeling on top. Perhaps those are the other materials listed in the pyramid. For me, it’s hard to distinguish them from one another. It’s perfectly understandable that you’re after 100% natural ingredients simply for its own sake, however, natural ingredients don’t necessarily have higher aesthetic value.