Berbere

Sileno Cheloni's mastery of quiet, reflective, beauty, with no false moves or flails at originality or capitulations to teenaged market demands, nevertheless has some surprises. The opening of Berbère reminded me, of all things, of Guerlain Après l'ondée--almost a sad and deep reflecting pool of dark violet. That is entirely wrong, but it gets at the unusual accords that are structuring this perfume: angelica with petitgrain and absinthe, which makes for that melancholy sweetness, and cedar, vetiver and patchouli heart notes over a base of amber and benzoin. Without the petitgrain citrus, this would be an entirely different perfume, and when it gives way as a top note, to the warmth of anjelica, amber, and benzoin. I am struggling to find the slightest North African inspiration here, but the marketing language seems to identify it with the pursuit of water, the oasis, and I agree with that water reference: "Citruses and black pepper remind us of the North African coasts withered by the hot desert wind. Among perturbing notes of absinthe and angelica, petitgrain makes the way to the woods: cedar, vetiver and patchouli that like a caravan seek rest in an oasis of benzoin and amber." It is a remarkably beautiful perfume.