Ambre de Coco

Isn't it sweet, when your favorite perfumer returns to form? Russian Adam has had more misses than hits in past year. Atleast for me and my taste, all his offerings after Classic Collection I were, disappointing. In came, History of Attar Collection with highest number of fragrances in a single collection to date. To be honest, i was quite skeptical about it as most of these fragrances are based on Indian Attars that i have been using or atleast sniffing since childhood. And i was right, as none attracted my taste enough to warrant a full bottle. Then i tried, Ambre de Coco and ordered a bottle right away. In my humble opinion, Ambre de Coco is a return of Russian Genius. It has that classical Adam DNA that is found in many of his fragrances. And truth be told, i'm sucker for that signature DNA. Ambre de Coco is supposed to be based on a very popular Indian Attar, Shamama tul Amber but it is blended in such a way that you will not be able to tell, if you didn't know. My nose picks up cardamom right in the start along with animalic (for some people, pissy) musc. Musc remains ever so present even when the main player Cacao enters the game. Now Cacao in combination with Peach creates a chypre like effect but cacao overpowers everything in this concoction. Having said that, the scents never turns into overly sweet or gourdmanish at any stage and cacao doesn't behave like dark brooding chocolate but has powdery tone to it. Now either "oud" has been blended extremely well or the quantity is quite less because my nose, could not pick any prominent woody element. Overall tonality of this fragrance is vintage-esque and may remind you of Adam's past fragrances like Russian Oud (Cacao, Musc) and Antiquity (Peach, Amber) but it carries enough weight of its own and doesn't feel redundant. I don't like to talk about Performance when juice is that fresh but your will be glad to know that it is as good as any extrait from previous collections. It lasts on skin for over 8 hours while on clothes, you may get whiffs musky cacao even after 24 hours. Projection is quite low and stays in a close bubble. Ambre de Coco might not be my top Areej le Dore fragrance of all time but it doesn't change the fact that it gives us chance to experience next best thing to his discontinued masterpieces. I'm actually surprised that this one is still not sold out on his website. Yes, price is quite high for 48 ml bottle but i would still recommend it not only to regular ALD's fans but also to those are into unique, high quality indie fragrances.

My first Areej Le Dore along with Russian Oud II, which I haven't tested as much. I have about 80 niche fragrances mostly from the likes of Xerjofff, Kilian, Roja, Fragrance du Bois etc. But no Bortnikoffs or other 'artisanal houses' until this. My first impression is a blast of peach along with something animal, antique feeling, but also obviously bright. This then falls into focus with a fresh peach accord surrounded in a bed of cacao and creamy sandalwood, yet the feel is that of a classic chypre with gourmand touches. It is uplifting, sparkling even, yet hints at a deeper side from the start. It evolves to reveal the Indian spices, apparently distilled in the most traditional way possible, and gradually reveals oud, amber and oak moss at the core. It evolves slowly but always seems uplifting and complex, with peach and chocolate driving the core of the narrative. I absolutely love this. It is nothing like Russian Oud 2, which is less chocolatey, more salty and with more oud, darker and more incensy. Russian Oud is a serious complex and multidimensional scent, almost gourmand, but also a little churchy, while Ambre Coco is sexier and more versatile to the point I could wear it in the summer (not the hottest days), albeit a little less complex. Comparing the two is like comparing a Chambolle Musigny to a Gevry Chambertin - two different footprints altogether. This is also an EDP and projects more, while Russian Oud in an Extrait and is denser, but sits closer to the skin. Closest comparisons in my collection would be Xerjoff Via Cavour (peaches, chocolate and oud, but without the florals and Indian spices instead) and Roja Kuwait (dirty peach candy with oud and florals but no chocolate). In the end I think I like it more than Via Cavour or Kuwait - something magical and old school about it, but also sexy and modern. As a final note I spend a lot of time in Brazil and this last few months we had the worst heat wave in almost a decade and temperatures were 33-38 C with 50-70% humidity, yet my wife and I often wore Xerjoff gourmands like Via Cavour and La Capital without them ever feeling cloying. I get bored of too many freshies and so welcome a fragrance like Coco Amber that can give me something stunning and unique in any season of the year. Would easily have been able to pull this off in these conditions as it is less sweet and heavy than either Xerjoff.

I purchased a bottle from Areej Web site, after trying it. Areej has a distribution center in USA, so it came in a few days with good tracking info. I am rewriting my review after wearing it again this morning... At first I thought it was a lightweight Russian Adam oud fragrance. But this morning I'm understanding the brilliance of his perfumery skills in this masterful composition. Chocolate is said to have floral tones. Adam, as a gifted perfumer understands the essence of what pure chocolate smells like, and seamlessly blends it into a beutifull and deep spice and dark cacao fragrance accord! The cacao is replacing what florals normally add to a fragrance. This interplay of notes and accords are subtle and takes some time to see and appreciate. That's what makes this kind of fragrance art! It is one of the most wearable and approachable Russian Adam oud fragrances. Yet the oud is still more cheesy than any Bortnikoff oud I believe. - Even Lao Oud. The peach is subtle, and took a couple wearings to really see it. As you are enjoying the herbs and spices with dark chocolate; You begin to notice a pleasant bright fruity sweetness come in. It's the peach. The peach and light oakmoss give it that classic vintage chypre vibe. The base notes of amber, oud and Mysore sandalwood give it a creamy warm woody base accord. PS: After a few days, second wearing... Wow, it even got better. It breathed or maserated maybe? The oud is smooth and more intense with the dark cacao. It feels better blended now. I can't stop smelling my hand, and enjoying Ambre de Coco and watching and concentrating for changes and nuances. Way better than Lao Oud or Monarch. $100 more than those Bortnikoffs, it's worth it. After my bottle sat for a couple weeks, the peach note seems to pop more bright and fruity than before. This is like a vintage chypre with oud; Like Mitsouko with oud. Rating: 9.25/10 God bless you. John 3:16

Okay, perspective from a western nose. Firstly I thought I was ready for anything but this would be the first fragrance that I will not spray more than once while I am wearing it. Two test sprays at the shop, shout out to oligarch in Melbourne Australia and I felt like I had gone 10 rounds with a heavy weight, it actually bored into my brain, I had smelt nothing this complex and strong before. The peach and sandalwood dominate for a while then the full range of spices weave through it all. I sprayed it on a family member days later when I had recovered and the smell instantly filled the house. This is ridiculously powerful and will dominate due the foreign combo of notes. You cannot ignore this and I might save it for winter just so it tones down. This lasts easily a whole day and don’t get it on clothes, you have been warned. I am still trying to get my head around the scent profile, this is a welcome challenging fragrance. I do not think many western noises will have ever smelt something like this. Edit.. This is AWESOME

Man this one is special. I get a blast of peach and one of the most realistic non synthetic chocolates. The overall vibe reminds me of Ottoman Empire 3 without the rose, musk. Dark oudy chocolatey goodness with the spices keeping it warm and interesting. The oud in here reminds me of older style Areej Le Dore releases I love. This one, Mysore Incenza, La MItte are my fave from the collection so far.