Chinese Oud

A Shalimaresque take on Oud or an Oud take on Shalimar? That is the question and how I see Chinese Oud from Areej le Dore. Chinese Oud Part 1 ranks among my favorite ALDs, just behind Antiquity, War and Peace, and Ottoman Empire. It is an Oud heavy perfume making use of a beautiful Hainan Agarwood oil that is the very soul of the composition. The oud presents faint smoky and hay-like facets but the main trait is the leather-like quality. Brown, smooth like silk, rich, suede leather-like texture and smell is what I feel this oud is all about. Blended with creamy florals, patchouli, and vanilla to create an Oriental mirage which to my nose resembles Shalimar and Musc Ravageur, basically that lineage. However, it brings something new to the table, specifically, high-quality natural oud, and a plethora of other marvelous and natural ingredients while Adam's skill makes it feel effortless and expertly blended—smooth transitions with seamless overlaps, no edges, and no misplaced notes. The opening is so addictive as creamy aldehydes and a juicy orange blend to give the impression of an orange creamsicle cocktail—mouthwatering and unique use of aldehydes which for many can be offputing. The heart reveals a lush and creamy floral garden where specific floral accords are difficult to separate as they are blended to perfection. At the same time, the base is a combination of oud, vanilla, patchouli, and Mysore sandalwood. The vanilla gives sweetness and warmth but it is never cloying nor cheap smelling like the usual vanillin and other common substitutes. The patchouli lends a nice chocolaty touch. The Mysore has a rich buttery texture that becomes more apparent after several hours and will continue to come forth as the perfume consumes on the skin. It feels like an Oriental dream. An Oriental take on vintage French perfumery aesthetic that offers another perspective on a well-established genre. As far as Part 2 is concerned, I feel that the composition is identical, however, the Oud used is different and it gives the perfume a different feel, especially in texture. While Part 1 feels smooth and leather-like, Part 2 feels rather woody, like hardwood, with additional bitterness and sourness in the opening as well as a far more noticeable smoky facet. Since Oud is the star and the main note in this perfume, I feel these two are quite different and I feel that way whenever I wear them. I love both, for different reasons. Part 1 for its leather-like quality, feeling like a continuation of Shalimar. Part 2 for its woody and smoky facets, feeling like a more Oriental departure to the same theme. Either way, this is one of the best ALDs to my tastes and a great example of how Oud can be so versatile when used properly and by the right nose. IG:@memory.of.scents

Chinese Oud I count myself as very lucky to have heard about the launch of Russian Adam’s on the day when it first could be purchased. I watched the video Russian Adam released about how this fragrance was imagined, then created. For anyone wishing a wonderful introduction to a self-taught master perfumer describing his creative process in loving detail, I would urge you to watch it on YouTube. Unfortunately, there were only a small number of Chinese Oud produced (in 30 0r 10 ml), in part because of the very rare Ouds used in its production. It is now sold out. I have the 10ml version which, just by the way it is packaged, one can tell it’s something special. If there is anyone who can summon words that can give a feeling that you can almost smell it yourself it is the blogger Kafkaesque. He often writes monumentally long descriptions of scents he loves. Such is the case with Chinese Oud. It will take you a good 30 minutes or more to read it all, but it is well worth it. I think he was gifted with a Nose few will ever have. I wish fragrances would last as long as they do on him! I find he is incredibly helpful when it comes to separating the great from those that are special but not monumental. I find Chinese Oud far different than the many, many ouds I have tested or own. This applies to Russian Adam’s other fragrances as well as the usual suspects from Bortnikov, Ford, Killian, MFK, and Humbert. On me the scent is not a beast, silage is good but not great. Longevity is better and if put on clothes it hangs around for days. Since it is so rare and hard to come by, I will only wear this to very special events or just a day in life when I need to smell a scent that is transformative. Is Hainan the holy grail of Ouds? It may well be, but I just know the fragrance has qualities I have never encountered before.

My first experience with an Areej Le Dore, and my goodness, what an introduction. Generally, I don't care for natural oud fragrances because where I'm from (Middle East), natural oud perfumes/oils are so common, especially Indian and Cambodian oud; they're the people's go-to for formal events such as weddings. But when I found a 10ml original sample with 6-7ml left of this going for 65$, I couldn't stop myself and blind bought it. Maybe I don't have the most experienced nose, but I honestly don't get the top notes. As soon as I sprayed the perfume, I was blasted with that wild Hainan oud, and it is breathtaking. It's very multifaceted; medicinal, dusty, earthy, and smoky. It feels ancient, and on top of all of that, the oud note feels very textured and detailed. Smelling the oud in this felt like the equivalent of when I came across an 8K TV for the first time, but this time it's a nosegasm rather than an eyegasm. As the fragrance dries down, the intensity of the oud calms, and the floral aspects come out, as well as the lovely vanilla and sandalwood, the dry down is so calming and smooth I feel like it's impossible for anyone to dislike. This composition is so different from the usual natural oud perfumes I’ve tried that I'm willing to say it easily lands a spot as one of my favorite oud perfumes, if not my favorite. It's that good.

I have many ALD fragrances. I just received Chinese Oud I and I am flabbergasted. It shot up into the pantheon of the greats for me. On the level with War and Peace II, Russian Musk II, Ottoman Empire, Oud Zhen.. I don't think I can add much to the discourse that @Dr B1414 has not already shared. The profile offers a striking similarity to Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, I get the Shalimar DNA. Chinese Oud opens with a juicy, sweet orange / creamy vanilla / sparkling, metallic aldehyde. I'm typically not a fan of the "creamsicle" type combination, but this is SO well done. Shortly after, the oud warms up and makes its contribution - woody, slightly green, somewhat medicinal in quality, recalling a tongue depressor - the popsicle stick to complete the creamsicle whole. I have a more difficult time picking out the accords as it progresses, it's blended to fantastic effect and I just revel in the magic instead of trying to dissect and make it an intellectual experience. Patchouli / sandalwood / lightly vanillic and the oud is so well rounded giving something of a musky, spicy quality. Top 5 from the house, maybe top 3 (it's so hard to pick)

This is a very wearable and non-challenging oud fragrance from Areej le Dore. For those who are expecting animalic and pungent Hainan oud, this is not it. In fact, the Hainan Oud used in this composition is superbly blended with the fruity notes of sweet orange and bergamot up top. There is distinct and powerful smokiness upon first spray which I take it to be Hainan Oud. The scent is balanced by some white florals of gardenia and jasmine, but I do not detect much rose. The dry down is fantastic as the smokiness subsides, giving way to sandalwood and sweet vanilla. I also sense sourness from oakmoss that mixes very well with the sweetness of the fruits, vanilla and patchouli. Overall, this is an enjoyable perfume from Russian Adam, the one that is not offensive. The longevity is excellent and projection is loud within the first 2-3 hours. Enjoy!