Almond Suede

When I initially learned of Almond Suede, the idea of almond marzipan had me feeling skeptical—I am persnickety when it comes to gourmands. The market is saturated with all manner of snickerdoodle, marshmallow, the candied; the iced; the frosted; all rendering me nauseous. I also felt that the concept would be difficult for a perfumer to pull off, with marzipan having a subtly granular, clay-like texture to both the touch and the nose. Yet here, the opening does have the expected pierce of bitter almond oil, almost like pure amaretto, soon followed by the nutty, chewy, sweet, yet not overly sugary nature of the confection. But it seamlessly melts into a sonorous—and I mean SONOROUS—suede, like the smell when I would brush my grey Clarks Desert Trek boots back in the day. God I loved that smell. It's here, this is it! A cistus concrete—NOT a literal concrete accord as Fragrantica would have you believe, but concrete as in the solvent-extracted plant material used in perfume—imparts a spicy, resinous, almost tobacco-like overtone here. Cistus concrete and absolute is extracted from the aerial parts (the stems, leaves, and petioles) of Cistus ladaniferus, where labdanum resin is also obtained. Fascinatingly so, it seems to extend the effect of marzipan into the heart, as a saffron accord amplifies the incoming suede effect (as it's known to do). Then there is the pine tar, and it is smoky, but it's not burnt smelling as cade tar normally would, and has that alluring conifer-needle, sappy sweetness. Now this is the stroke of heaven in Almond Suede, to take this whimsically moorish idea and pilot it in a dramatic direction. It lives somewhere between human warmth and stark piety. The latter may also account for why some feel its intensity ("beast mode!") as a bit overwhelming, but I feel it works here fantastically in the arc of the development. I know this one is going to be perceived as the most esoteric of the three new Arquiste releases: challenging, unapologetic, but also beguiling in form. I look forward to what Almond Suede 'becomes' when the colder temperatures are here. I have a feeling its reaction on skin meeting the frigid air will reveal more of its story...

Almond Suede is the first Arquiste that took some time getting used to (from the ones I enjoy). I love the brand, Carlos, Rodrigo’s execution in most of the line (in this case, Calice)... call me biased, but they deliver with the concept and craftsmanship. Almond Suede is thick. Granular. Perfect for cold weather. My skin brings forth a rich neroli and orange blossom, that mixed with the honey and beeswax instantly reminds me of Seville a l’Aube. That same mystical feel. But instead of incense and lavender, warmer suede and spices join them. Suede comes of as more leathery than usual, as if it was mixed with some IBQ. Makes sense for medieval Andalucía. Pine smells like the resin from the tree. That sticky substance that you had to rub your hands with dirt to take it off. I get it big time here. Saffron, almond...maybe glimpses but never too much. Pink pepper not at all, which is fine as I’m not a fan, and I think it’s why I didn’t give it a go months ago. I can sense the Andalucía theme, but for me it translates as a medieval house at night. Cold winter night. A thick honey paste, granular and slightly bitter is served with crushed almonds. Marzipan, which smells different, is present now. Worn leather garments, with a hint of labor sweat from making orange blossom absolute (the job I envision for our protagonist) is what reigns supreme. There’s a slight medicinal coolness that fits it perfectly. Dark. Holly. Kind of like the winter night version of Seville; it really does smell like it. A power behind that feels esoteric. Not gourmand but sweet. Not a wrapper candy, but homemade sweets. A treat for adults. Excellent sillage and longevity.

Boozy leather opening, amaretto sipped on a handsome suede Eames chair. The notes are honeyed and rich, absent cloying sweetness. Vanilla is present but not prominent early on. Very natural to the nose, despite a concrete note setting the stage for a synthetic rendering. Instead the material is scenery, as if the chair is sat in a minimalist loft with panoramic windows and unfinished poured concrete floors. It also marks a characteristic of Arquiste scents, introducing an element that shouldn't work yet preforms so well it should take a bow. The almond liquor departs in favor of a dynamic, mildly poisonous, bitter almond. The tree nut's bitterness enhanced in part because it contains iodine: a scrupulous sub-note who's scent is stood atop the concrete, lending a surprising comfort and warmth (avoiding a clinical 'bandaid' aspect). The citrus trifecta of bergamot, neroli and orange blossom all stick to the shadows, merely tempering the star notes that might otherwise present too sweet or too bitter. It dries to a fluffy and opulent vanilla with nutty undertones. Well suited to a accompany a dark academia ensemble, flat lay or pinterest board. Pair with an uncomfortable but chic houndstooth blazer, a-line suede mini and opaque umber hosiery on the earliest day it is so cold you want only to stay in and re watch The Talented Mr. Ripley, because reading the Highsmith novel is too on-the-nose, which is where your nonprescription bold framed glasses must sit.

Whoa okay I think this is a good study for openings vs drydowns! It started very harsh and leathery. I don't get along with leathery scents because consistently they've made me nauseous and I don't real feel much for smelling like a leather jacket or couch or what not. But! This one iiiis leathery. When you get past the punch of leather at the start it starts to peel back very slowly but not entirely! The sweetness starts to peek gently but it never for me turns into a full on sweet candied almond dessert or candy. So you'll get I think that very careful tug-of-war between sweetness and leather. Nobody wins! But that's the point I think why I like it. Both balance each other out well without letting one aspect overtake the other. All the notes listed, you can actually pick them out. Especially the honey! Give it a shot I think and let it sit with you!

A masterpiece! Such a beautiful composition that works so incredibly well. Opens with a bright & tangy citrus followed by a rich and creamy camel colored suede. The orange blossom absolute really blooms here too, with a marshmallowy fluffiness to it. The almond is truly marzipan esque as it has a powdery creaminess, a starchy graininess, and it envelops the suede in conjunction with the orange blossom. This smells like if you spilled marzipan flavored ice cream on brand new suede shoes while you had a bouquet of fresh orange blossoms in your other hand. The dry down has a rich warm and subtle smokiness with the pine tar with remnants of the marzipan mingling with a soft vanilla and deep suede. Just so good