Delhi

We all love experiencing the finding of a hidden gem in this hobby. It's one of the biggest motivators that keeps us pushing forward, willing to try more and more fragrances, because you just never know when you'll stumble across another beauty. And it was through this curiosity that a few friends discovered Delhi, which I eventually got to meet it as well. And boy, is it good. It might not seem like much at first glance. That's a trap that many, including me, fall for - judging a fragrance based on the notes, without actually trying it. It's all back to the renowned "Don't judge a book by its cover" saying. And most times, it is true. As for Delhi, the name evidently makes reference to the capital of India, which in fragrance terms, means we can expect a proper spicy dosage. And indeed, we get exactly that. A very potent blast of cardamom that unravels in warm, bright, and of course, highly spicy facets. There's an almost dusty aspect underneath offering depth, with other spicy attributes reminiscing of anise too. However, if there's something that India is known for in the multitude of spices and aromatics they have, it's curry. And you get an impression of curry here with Delhi - warm, not overly pungent, somewhat dry, yet astoundingly rich. Intriguing yet? The way Delhi evolves with time is arguably its most impressive trick. The spice settles over the petals of three different floral components - rose, orange blossom, and champaca. These make for a white floral impression at first, gently honeyed and jasmine-like, but without heady or intoxicating potency. Then, a somewhat soapy accent can be picked up lurking in the back, working nicely with the champaca to eventually bring a creamy texture. A sort of creamy curry plate, if you wish. But there's more. Even though not directly sweet, there is a particular syrupy sweetness present. It was very familiar to me at first, and it took a while until I depicted it to be fenugreek, which played a crucial role in Amouage's Reckless Leather. It's not nearly as syrupy-sweet in Delhi, which is a good thing. The myrrh counterbalances it with resinous/balsamic facets without much bitterness, but I do get a faint medicinal impression buried deep. Speaking of buried deep, a few hours in, Delhi is still morphing and changing subtly. It turns woodier as the cedar dryness pushes through, with that "pencil shavings" aspect present. But it is still very much accompanied by creamy spices, even if toned down. The patchouli sort of adds a gentle contrast of "coolness", whilst the vetiver is lost in the mix somewhere. Honestly, it delivers more than you would have expected or asked for. And I love it for that. A good showing in longevity on my skin; just about 12 hours. Despite this, reapplying throughout the day is not a bad idea, as projection, at least on me, wasn't class-leading. But it sure was strong for the first 1-2 hours; no complaints there. It would smoothly soften along the timespan of 4-5 hours before it would turn into a skin scent. I will say, though, I did not expect to get the comments that I got when wearing Delhi. Two separate people in the same day told me immediately that I smell like an old person. Now, mind you, I take that as a compliment, but it was not quite what I had in mind in terms of reactions. But before I complained about it, I sniffed it again, and to some extent, I understand the association. It definitely has a grown-up vibe, with the sort of very dusty spice and dryness hinting indeed towards "old". Not exactly like the vintage, old-school fragrances from the 80s, just distinctly "mature". Hence, the younger generation might not find Delhi all that appealing. But those who do will appreciate wearing it anywhere, anytime. An easy must-try for spicy lovers. Delhi hits the spot unlike many other fragrances I've tried. It's not only its intense spice, but the way it develops with resinous myrrh, creamy florals, and ultimately dry cedar. It all comes together like a puzzle: every piece on its own doesn't look like much or something we haven't seen before, yet put them all together and you get a majestic creation. Likewise, I enjoy looking at my "olfactive profile" as this huge puzzle made of smaller pieces, each being a different fragrance. And this puzzle grows with every new piece added. But to get the whole picture (spoiler: there is no whole picture), you have to keep searching for the right pieces. And sometimes, the right pieces might be where you least expect them to be. Presentation: 6/10 Scent: 9.5/10 Longevity: 10/10 Projection: 6/10 Versatility: 9/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Overall: 7.9/10

I remember being 20 years old and visiting a shop on Thayer St in Providence that sold all manner of incense and incense burners, oils and soaps, all sorts of Eastern imports. It was the first time purchased both Nag Champa agarbatti incense and Chandrika ayurvedic soap, along with a few soapstone figurines. I recall it was also the same day that I tried sushi for the first time, which turned into a life-long love. I hung out with my counterculture friends, smoked grass now and then, and listened to records. I was big into slowcore: Galaxie 500, Low, Bedhead, Red House Painters. I started reading poets like Mayokovsky and philosophers like Jacques Derrida. I was taking art history courses and having a smoke with disaffected classmates outside the entrance of the fine arts building. What a time to be young and already over it. When I first smelled Delhi, it not only immediately reminded me of the incense and the soap, all spiced and rosy woodiness, myrrh powder and sweet champaca flower, but also of my time of intellectual and identity exploration. I remember beginning to really think I was "too cool for school," eventually going from a 3.9 GPA Presidential scholar to dropout (I would return to school some eight years later to finish my degree). Now, as I smell Delhi, now well into middle age, it's like hugging that 20 year old version of myself. It also reminded me of how much I've learned to challenge and (ironically) deconstruct all that counterculture exposed to me. I look back at it this time with the telescope of wisdom, those early appeals to truth and deeper understanding, much too young to realize that much of what I needed was right there in front of me. Now I can enjoy these aromas without navel-gazing, listen to that slowcore with renewed insight, and read the poetry with a richer perception. Just hold the grass.

I am glad that Delhi is here to be reviewed. I received a free sample of this in a sample order from Aedes perfumes and I fell in love with it at first sniff. From a tiny 1/2 ml sample I got all day wear with massive sillage and longevity. This perfume has been on my mind a lot since I wore it and though I don't need anymore full bottles it is something I would reach for a lot, especially in the colder weather. It is hard to find perfumes with a big myrrh presence, especially since the material is so expensive that perfumers choice other less expensive resins but myrrh is one of kind and there is nothing else that smells like it. I would disagree with the above accords somewhat this fragrance has a larger warm spicy and amber accord than listed above. The florals are also much more present to my nose especially the champaca. Delhi is a rich deep resinous fragrance with just the right amount of patchouli and the red cedar. But for me the myrrh is the star in Delhi and at some point this will be in my collection. It is just to good not to have and to wear. I see the above accords have been changed from what they were this morning. More accurate now. Delhi is a stellar amber warm spicy woody resinous tropical floral fragrance of the highest quality. If you like the smell of Hindu temples this is it. Smells like the myrrh cones my yoga teacher burned. Love it.

Ayurvedic soap’s herbal concoction what I get is micro-doses of herbs like thyme rosemary etc with some cumin and a slight cardamom overdose on top of a spicy resinous amber. Two distant concepts unusually well executed that it feels familiar and like something you’ve smelled before however I’ve never seen the combo before. Extremely elegant South East Asian profile. Think black tuxedo going to a traditional Indian wedding with an unbuttoned white shirt. You are obviously not from India but you’re still welcome to share the tradition. The level of finesse just takes this to a French direction. So if anything gives away it’s inauthenticity it is how well executed it is with surgical precision and balance of spices. A very very flattering flaw to have. A great release and a must try though given the scents slightly lower versatility in daily life I got a 30ml which I think is a very good size. An exceptional and noteworthy craftsmanship in terms of bottle and brand aesthetic. AdV is definitely a brand to look out for. One of the solaces in perfume since Malle left his eponymous brand.

I bought this perfume on a whim while I'm a very eccentric (and expensive) gift shop. Initially, I liked how masculine it smelled on me. It smelled of sandalwood and an abundance of spice. I had to do a double take later in day though as I smelled my arm again and received a blast of old world soapy florals. The way this fragrance changes on me is really cool! I'd compare the ending a lot to Chandrika soup and the beginning of it to Opium (og formula) I don't smell a lot of the florals in the beginning. Super cool! I'm glad I bought it. I received a free book on the perfume house too in which one side is in French and the other is in English. I'm looking forward to learning more about this perfume house!