Ambre Papier

I received Atelier Materi Ambre Papier as a free sample in an order and I couldn't be happier, because it was not on my radar after already trying others from this house. It smells saffrony, musky, sweet and a little spiced, but not in a cinnamon or thankfully black pepper way although listed as an opening note. The spice feels a little metallic from the ambroxan, but still smooth because of the saffron. Not remotely similar to the rubber tire saffron-leather accord in Rosendo Mateu No 5 imo, nor as heavy and sweet as YSL Babycat although similar in warmth once Ambre Papier dries down. The amber here feels more balmy and translucent from the benzoin, brightened by the myrrh resin. Ambre Papier is really addictive even after becoming a bit of a skin scent after 5-6 hours and anyone can wear it. If this is what people were smelling in RMn5, then I now understand why that was so hyped. I can see the comparisons with Ex Nihilo Amber Sky that starts off less sweet, more clean geranium, and saffron. However it dries down differently as a lighter MFK Grand Soir which veers dry and masculine. The molecular saffron is also not a bomb like Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron Extrait which is more clear in texture rather than warm, cutting like crystal; an invigorating, clean leather musk that lasts and projects more beastly than this. Ambre Papier is actually most similar to Jusbox Cheeky Smile to me with its amber sweetness added to ambroxan molecular musk. The myrrh and benzoin masterfully and subtly added in Ambre Papier takes it to another level though. It also doesn't play anosmic roulette like Cheeky Smile does with me lol.

Going through samples of the extrait collection. Wow, this is such a surprise! I honestly am a little sick of ambers, they tend to be a little redundant and the circle around the same accords a lot of the time. Then, once in a while comes one that throws a curve ball at you. I've had it happen from Landscaster World's Amber Stone and now it happens again here. This has the familiar vanillic profile but it is tweaked by a peppery aromatic twist that then goes very balsamic and resinous. I definitely get the burnt paper/old book vibes here but to me that's not what stands out. It's that deep, balsamic drydown that has me addicted. It's a same the longevity is kind of so-so on my skin (especially for this kind of profile) because it's a stunner. I get maybe 5-6 hours max, which is a shame. Still, definitely a beautiful twist on the classic amber profile and my second favorite of the extrait collection so far. It'll get a few wears come autumn and may end up a full bottle, we'll see.

Ambre Papier is a term to describe a specific fragrance composition inspired by the tradition of burning benzoin resin, as practiced in “Papier d’Arménie” (Armenian paper), a scented tradition for perfuming interiors. That’s exactly how this smells, but in a more modern way. Really nice cozy smell. Perfect in the colder days. I like to layer it with Bake by Akro, to make it a little bit sweeter.

Smells like luxury (especially on skin). At the Dubai airport they have Marhaba Lounges. This fragrance reminds of the leather seats, the cushions and the assortment of fruits and pastries at the cafe

Ambre Papier was a love at first sniff for me. A peppery resinous musk. Very nice!