Iris Ebène

initial spray very interesting. something brings me to a farm - not poopy, but i think its a combination of the green-ness of the petigrain and the leather component - like a saddle. not sure its for me yet, but i do appreciate it at the least. UPDATE: as it dries it loses some of the green and becomes a little sweeter leathery musk sandalwood. I don't even know what I am smelling but it smells good. i'm really loving it. I suspect this will be a keeper after a couple of wears. UPDATE 12/30/22 - i tested this again today. the beginning was good but Im not sure I need it in my life. but here I am 8 hours later sniffing my arm and loving it. the drydown has something in it that makes me actually salivate. I am not sure what. its soft and musky but there is a little something slightly sour in a juicy way that is addictive. could it be the peru balsam? not sure. still testing but I still like this fragrance and I don't have anything like it. I would suggest for people new to the fragrance test on one wrist and really let it be on you the whole day, otherwise you will not get the beauty of this fragrance. Plus I also think that people that are into IRIS may NOT like this fragrance because its not like any of the others I have tried. TEST before you buy.

At first, it can feel a little dry, sharp, even slightly difficult, the iris comes across as powdery and austere, with a peppery, suede-like edge that may seem almost too strict at the beginning. But this is exactly the kind of perfume that asks for patience. You have to let it settle on skin and let it become itself. After that slightly guarded opening, it opens up beautifully. The composition becomes softer, smoother, and much more nuanced: the iris turns velvety and elegant, the suede feels refined rather than harsh, and the whole fragrance starts to glow with a muted, warm, quietly sensual quality. There is something very composed and chic about it, not flashy, not sweet, not trying to seduce immediately, but deeply polished and distinctive once it unfolds. What I appreciate most is that it doesn’t feel obvious. It has texture, restraint, and personality. On me, it moved from something almost severe into something intimate, soft, and very beautiful. A fragrance that definitely needs to be worn, not just sniffed once and judged too quickly. Not the easiest iris, but a very rewarding one.

Being drawn to another iris scent is not an easy thing for me. This Iris Ebène did catch me off guard in a pleasant way. This is not your classic soft-powdery iris. It’s getting deeper, darker, woodier, almost like a suede-wrapped iris slowly warming on skin. There’s a dense, almost balsamic backdrop that gives it a kind of introspective elegance. Not overly sweet, not overly floral, just... textured. What I really appreciate here is how the powdery and woody facets are intertwined, the iris is fleshy and gently smoky, not aloof. It reminds me of how violet or iris can be worked into darker compositions without losing their soul. Kind of like what I enjoy in Black Prestigium, but more modern, and more streamlined. Iris Ebène wears close to the skin but lingers with intention. Definitely more evening wear for me: reflective, elegant, not trying to be loud but still magnetic in its own way. For those who appreciate iris in a deeper register, far from makeupy clichés, this is worth exploring.

Normally, I don't enjoy leather fragrances but Iris Ebène is an exception. The powder from the iris marries beautifully with the soft, supple suede scent; I can detect both of these notes throughout the lifetime of the fragrance, which lasts over nine hours on my skin. I agree with the comments below, while the longevity is above average, the scent profile stays close to the skin. According to the Atelier Materi website, the perfumer Marie Hugentobler worked with actual natural iris when composing this EDP, which adds more depth to the fragrance than a fantasy iris accord would. I want to add that I love the touch of warmth from the pimento here, I can really detect it in the opening! This scent reminds me of Tabacco Toscano by Santa Maria Novella except Iris Ebène has better longevity. Overall, I'm impressed and will be adding this to my wish list!

there’s a vibrant iris and orris root combo, dense and starchy powdery, very dirty spicy—like cloves or nutmeg, a bit smoky. if it was a colour, it would’ve been an ashy grey. some kind of nut maybe? or a serious gangster flower like labdanum? idk. just a bit of vanilla and/or some kind of sweet resin like benzoin. smells like a lipstick stain inside a makeup or leather bag. the leather is there and slightly animalic, but it’s a clean suede rather than a stinky leather. the star of the show is still the waxy, warm lipstick. this does remind me of the same style of iris as lipstick on, but a lot more niche and pleasant—it actually has something going on besides pure lipsticky iris, not that there’s anything wrong with that, but this is more complex. also, is it me, or does anyone else get dust?

Leathery and smoky at first spray, with a touch of silvery cold Iris in the heart. Feels very masculine and sort of stark at this stage. Gradually powder starts to creep in, with the Iris becoming much stronger and more floral and now purple, and the feel goes from minimal and streamlined and dark to a juicy purple cloud. It becomes so much softer and prettier at this phase, and that feel continues into the dry down when musk and sandalwood are prominent but with Iris stil holding its own. In fact, it has changed into a very sweet and almost candy like Iris. The wearer experiences so many different ways Iris can be perceived in this one perfume, and it’s beautiful. Unisex and appropriate for any weather I think. Fairly close to skin projection and 8 hour longevity.

Iris Ebene- lightly sprayed on skin, and clothing, diffuses the softest suede with powdery Iris / Orris and gentle sandalwood blend after its initial opening of mandarine and pimento pepper oil. Musk, balsam & pink pepper weaves in and through the scent beautifully, wafting their notes and rounding out the fragrance so very beautifully. It’s a close wearing scent after opening but doesn’t fade away to nothing. Lasts 5 or so hours on my skin and longer on clothing. Iris Ebene is a contemplative and grounding fragrance. A natural beauty. Suitable for every season & situation when worn lightly sprayed. Iris Ebene is soothing and a true pleasure to wear!

Being an Iris fan, I’m completely in love with this fragrance. The opening of pink peppercorn is not an opening really. It lasts. Shortly, the creamy sandalwood comes forward to contrast the peppercorn. The iris provides a soft balance. This is an addictive scent. I can’t get enough of it. This is my third fragrance from Atelier Materi and this is the most unique. Well blended and sophisticated. Get a sample if you can but the notes pretty spot on. Just elevated by the blend.

This one really surprised me. I usually detest iris so I’d left this last in the sample set I got, but it turned out to be one of my favourites! It’s no where near as powdery as I thought it would be. Instead, it smells like the most beautiful combination of buttery suede and sandalwood. The iris leans more papery than powdery. The pepper adds a little spice but it’s not overwhelming. The frag is smooth and beautifully blended. Impressive longevity too.

First of all - an amazing scent. Unique and sophisticated. This is how I imagine rich people smell 😁 The opening is just like the Iris Malikhan, but after that it becomes this dusty but clean iris/suede/sandalwood/musky scent. I can't stop sniffing my arm, it completely took over me. This being said, bare in mind that is a skin scent, with almost no projection. This doesn't bother me at all, because I really enjoy it in every possible way.

It strikes first with pepper and pimento. Sharp, dirty spice flaring like embers. Then the haze clears, and the gorgeous iris really unfurls. It’s powdery, darkly creamy, weaving itself with green woods and suede. As it settles, the edges blur into something soft and silken, like gentle fingertips across skin. It feels like a velvety silver-purple. Smooth, tender, and quietly magnetic. I’d wear it again, in fact, I am definitely going to.

A gorgeous iris/suede fragrance. You've probably smelled something similar if you've been around the block like I have. This is done well, but sillage and longevity are average to below average.

Powdery black iris. Buttery soft suede. Musky sandalwood. I’m in love. Extremely classy, elegant, and mysterious. Definitely unisex, but easily evokes a femme fatale if worn by a woman.

Ooh, very alluring. Whispery-velvety-smooth ripples of soft suede dusted and perfumed with contours of a dry, peppery, spicy and intensely classy iris up top. Real orris-rooty tang and puff of magic dust at first, settling into something darker and tinglier below; the suede swells gently about an hour in but never gets raw or pushy. Everything is very, very suave indeed here; nothing spiky or sharp to break the luxe-piano-bar-sophistication of it all. This one's a crooner not a yeller. Definitely shares the creamy-rich-mellow centre ground territory of Cacao Porcelana and Santal Bland (sorry, BLOND) from Atelier Materi; this one's not as strikingly unctuous, original or as powerful as Cacao, but it's still much more distinctive - and more robust - than Santal. Another to add to the 'hit' side of the hit-or-miss list from the house. Does have some flaws: it's pricy; can die on its feet (or on your skin) after a disappointing 3 to 4h; it may be redundant if you already own YSL 37 Rue de Bellechasse or Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman. Maybe a little shy for me overall but undeniably a beauty, if you're willing to give it some time and space to open out and bloom properly. Admirable.

I think this is likely to be a polar one, but I think I like it. It's not my typical style so I don't know that I need a full bottle, but it's definitely interesting. While I was familiar with Atelier Materi, I had not smelled this scent until I got this in a sample set. I can't say I've ever loved any iris fragrance (powder isn't my thing), so I didn't think I was going to care for this one. Iris Ebène surprised me. While it is both powdery and heavy on the iris, I think it's in a way I haven't smelled before. It's not like getting hit in the face with a powder puff; I think the balsam resin, pepper, and to the extent I can smell it the pimento give it some interesting depth and warmth. It goes on peppery and warmly spicy, but mellows into an almost soil-like powder that I kind of dig. I think it's best for the transitional seasons of spring and autumn. Again, I don't think this is going to be for everyone, but it feels like being elbow-deep in an iris bed planting bulbs on the first warm day of spring, turning over the soil rich in nutrients from the winter decay. 7.5/10.

The banger here is not about the sillage, its intimate, it lures you to get closer the minute you catch a whiff...like a moth to the flame...first you smell is a bit harsh dry powdery Iris and milky stem cream, vanilla candle paraffin (in this part Id love it to be less sweet and not to sit directly on the edge of (un)pleasancy), then it goes through its soft but dark black leathery phase with all the aforementioned...and you are hooked my dear, till the end where too much sweet ruins it and can trigger headache... sensual but...leaves a room to improvement!

A smokey iris is v much up my alley, so I was very excited to try this one. This is like a leathery balsamic powdery iris. In the initial spray it sort of reminded me of was Iris Malikhan from Masion Crivelli but ONLY in the very beginning; where the heart of that one is very much vanilla, this one is very much suede-- almost like a softer version of a Bottega Veneta or Serge Lutens Daim Blond. Smoked makeup -- feels a little violet-y too. I am definitely enjoying it but in this sort of leathery iris genre, there are others I enjoy more.

Semi-sweet, peppery, iris, suede. By avoiding vanillin overdose, it sidesteps being a standard, one-for-one Dior Homme clone. Still, however, it's a semi-niche woody-iris thing that doesn't commit to a distinctive enough identity to stand out or make me want to abandon the Dior. The band-aidy suede note is the most interesting thing about it.

This is what Dior Homme (original) was trying to be. Excellent iris composition, paired with soft suede that gives it added depth. Base comes across as something akin to castoreum. Above average performance. I get 6-7 hours.

For leather lovers. More masculine to my opinion, and for cold day. Not for me, but I like for my husband. I can smell a small touch of iris... 7/10 for my husband

This is very much of the Atelier Materi wheelhouse of scents if you've smelled a bunch already lol. They consistently have a very restrained yet polished finish, not in a way that leaves you hanging but you know this is where/how it's meant to hit. An expensive hotel lobby came to mind! Spicier and rougher at the start but mellows out to something material and tactile. Actually that material quality is it in the 'Materi" of the brand name?? The way their scents always feel to me like something you could hold and grasp with your hands. For Iris Ebene it's not so much leather for me honestly but a thick cozy (velvety?) couch in a hotel lobby, but more of an older, classic hotel that's been a landmark in its city for decades. It has a rich history and is adored by guests from different generations. I also understand the femme fatale association below but I also believe it is unisex. Coz there's just such a quiet, lowkey power/confidence to this scent that's very upfront but held back at the same time. It smells like someone you could get along with but definitely rings you DO NOT want to mess with this person. Intimidating yet respected. Not my jam though personally but glad to have sampled! Not similar to this but to be honest this was how I imagined Diptyque's Orpheon would've smelled when I read about it

Testing this blind, it opens with a dusty and musky dark element that seems to have an element of smoke, but isn't "smokey". A bit later I get a more woodsy vibe with a tiny hint of smoke and generally powdery. Later in the day as I get wifs of it, it's a little spicy and aromatic some times, dusty and powdery other times, and almost smokey and leathery other times. Looking at the name and notes, the iris explains a lot, but I don't get any overwhelming powder, it's more dusty. The pimento and pink peppercorn don't add much spice, and I don't get any blood mandarin. In testing this blend I thought it was a leather fragrance so the presence of suede makes sense but the blend of musky and dusty keeps an arms distance from this interpretation. It feels a bit more intimate than moderate in sillage, especially after the first hour, but hung around for a while. I see the appeal of it but kinda want a slightly bigger variant.

Iris Ebène is a strange take on an Iris accord, and yet still manages to smell pretty boring and lifeless unfortunately. It’s got a strong spicy element from the combination of warm allspice with aromatic pink pepper and a balsamic base. This spicy element is freshened up by the juicy bitterness of blood orange and petitgrain before the Iris itself makes itself known. This Iris is thick and leathery, dense and powdery whilst maintaining a delicate nature about it. All of this rests on a smooth base of sandalwood and leathery musks further elevating that suede accord. Overall it’s a pleasant scent. The quality is pretty good and it’s a nice fragrance to wear, but for the retail price you’re not getting much value for the simple reason that it’s a boring smell. I find it hard to imagine this is going to be a true love for anyone out there.

Reviewing again after months of tucking my little sample away, and yes my comments are still generally the same but I like it a bit more now interestingly. I still get the idea of confidence from what I wrote but not it's kinda, calming, but not in a soothing relaxing spa getaway kind of calming but a, "no it's cool guys I got this" kind of calm. Composure! There that's the word I was looking for. It smells like composure!

For all the positives I've left on this scent, maybe it's my decant getting older, but it's starting to smell like... warm scalp... sa Filipino medyo amoy anit na siya. Di naman masyado pero papunta na don haha anit pero bagong ligo/scalp of someone who just took a bath.

All I get is powder and the adhesive they use to stitch suede. Dark, smoky, intriguing, but extremely chemical. If you want to smell like you just finished a 12 hours shift in a shoe factory, wear this one.

Pimento and pink pepper opening moves immediately into dry woods, leather/suede and powdery iris. Dilly sandalwood hovers in the background, and the peru balsam is poking in. This is a blast to the nostrils. There are no real top notes. This is the nastiest iteration of these notes I could possibly imagine - gross, bitter dryness. It's repellent. It does soften a bit, but retains the powdery, bitter dryness. There is none of the floral sweetness of iris, just stark powder. In the drydown, there is the faintest hint of iris, but too little too late. It's a hollow powder shell with some musk - almost the scent of powdered nitrile gloves. Then, the rank rubbery, suede bitterness crawls back and makes this even worse. Noxious.

Last month was Pride in San Francisco and this smells like the metro. The base notes are ubiquitous in youthful male environs, gay or straight. It's some horrible candy petrol wood creosote thing that ruins my commute. Just goes up my nose and stays there for hours. I am a 54 year old woman and it's probably designed to repel me, specifically, and it works for that intended purpose. I think these tech bros are so upset about having to go back to the office that they commit olfactory assault upon everyone in a vain attempt to carve out personal space for themselves. No one can think this actually smells good. Yet, I keep sniffing my wrist, trying to decide what's bad about it, other than my own associations with it. I actually owned a bottle of something with the same horrid base, État Libre d'Orange's "Frustration". I sold it on eBay and the buyer accused me of selling them a fake. No, it's just genuinely appalling, but there's some perverse psychology involved making you temporarily think it smells attractive. I'm guessing the same thing has always been at work, from 1980s Dior's purple Poison--tuberose and grape mustard gas-- and long before that--think of any 1950s rose with civet. Perfumers take some naturally attractive accord and add some stank to it. Then marketing does its job selling you some sullied, almost beautiful thing. I had a 1960s mini of Miss Balmain that made me feel bad for Ye Ye girls in go go boots. It did not smell good. Serge Gainsbourg would treat her contemptuously and she'd think she was in love. Eet's not love. Charlie from the 1970s was omnipresent and it stunk. I don't think perfumers like us or their jobs. I don't think advertising people like us or their jobs. These are ugly times and we deserve ugly perfumes. It's really not bad, but there's going to be gallons of this kind of stuff laying around in the Aftermath, when the young people of the future will hopefully be embarrassed on our account. They'll be rolling around in radioactive cat poo, I'm certain, at $1000 a turd. Anyway, Iris Ebène, a timeless classic.

تست امشب کویغ د آیریس آتلیه ماتری عطری به غایب زیبا جذاب و نچرال از شروع بوی گل زنبق ( کره نیست) و بوی جیر مثل بوی ی جفت کفش یا کیف نو چرمی وقتی درجعبه رو باز می‌کنی که با حس اسپایسی و فلفلی همراهه . شیک و کلاسی👌 ولی ی ربع بعد سرو کله ی خروار فلفل صورتی ( فلفل نیست) پیدا میشه انقد زیاده که فضای کلی عطر رو تحت شعاع خودش قرار میده من از فلفل صورتی اصلا خوشم نمیاد متاسفانه تو این عطر هم تا آخر احساس میشه فقط در شروع پشت نت جیر اجازه نمایی نداشت عطر در شروع خیلی منو بیاد کلی کالش هرمس انداخت ولی بعد از یک ربع رایحه کاملا مستقل و جدیدی شکل گرفت قلب عطر برام بوی آشنایی داره هرچی فکر میکنم درست یادم نمیاد شاید یکی از عطرهای زنونه سی اچ درای دوان عطر با حفظ بوی فلفل صورتی و کمی حس تمیز جیر میاد رو بستری چوبی موسکی . جنس بوی این عطر زنونست ... ظریف و زیباست . متاسفانه پخش بوی نامطلوبی داره خیلی ملایمه موندگاریش خوبه اما چه فایده اسکین سنت میشه بعد از یکی دوساعت . در کل رایحه زیبا و شیکی داره .اما پرفرومنس ضعیفش همه احتمالات برای خریدش رو از من میگیره ضمن اینکه قیمت وسوسه کننده ای هم نداره و گرونه ...

Wow, I'm super happy I got a sample spritzer of this one. Iris Ebène reminds me of the "noir" version of the lighter and brighter amber floral: L'Orchidee by Leonard. Usually not a big floral fan, but this one has me thinking I might need a FB! I smell the leather, powder, and iris initially, and then they all settle down into the smoothest, most feminine base notes. Sometimes powdery fragrances go full-blown POWDER on my skin and I hate them, but this one doesn't! I also see this one as much more feminine than masculine, but that's only opinion! Iris Ebène is definitely a dimensional, well-blended scent and I'm so glad to have it!

Closest thing to this i've smelled is Iris Cartagena by Bon Parfeumer. I think I prefer Iris Cartagena because it has the cacao note and doesn't dry down to have that smoky quality that I'm not too crazy about. They both have this spicy, resinous iris initially, with IC softening down quicker with some sweet, gourmand notes and this one develops to become even more complex on the skin and develops a smoky facet. Glad I tried it. Next to try from the line is Cacao Porcelana. Sadly, my samples came nearly empty from Twisted Lily for both my AM perfumes.

This is a great scent with tons of suede and a well-balanced sandalwood-y, powdery, iris softness in the background. I think this lands much more masculine than the Fragrantica profile indicates after dry down, and I would love this on a man. The powder fades quickly, so if you're a man, spray and wait 10 minutes. Ladies, there is not enough iris at all in this to make it your favorite floral, but if you're ok with a straight up soft, leather scent then go on.

Carroty powdery orris root first on, with screamwood hints. As it dries, the rubbing alcohol/woody scream note takes over and buries everything else. I'm left with piercing woody alcohol screech that hurts my nose. I wish I got more of the listed notes. Atelier Materi seems to use these Spiky Woods aroma chemicals in a lot of their blends, sadly. I can't smell anything past them.

Have you ever smelled a perfume with a scent profile you weren’t necessarily looking for but immediately considered a full bottle after testing it? That’s how I felt when I tried this out. Soily iris, powder, nutty notes, woody, vetiver, waxy, suede, warm sandalwood, cocoa. Maybe the best suede scent I’ve smelled. High quality craftsmanship. Very classy. Strong like.

On paper: Superdry, metallic yet soft and slightly sweet iris. Equally dry woodiness and a slight soapiness that fits like a glove. Hints of dark roasted coffee beans and patchouli. On skin: More soapy and with bitter, highly aromatic greens. Almost went fougere. Violet leaf and sage. Interesting!

چرم پودری از ترکیب بنفشه و زنبق جذاب و بسیار با کیفیت ----------- Scent & Quality: 10/10 Longevity: 8/10 Sillage: 7/10 Creativity & Uniqueness: 7/10 Affordability: 3/10 ----------- Overall: 7/10

Dry sandalwood, cardamom, cedarwood, powdery, metallic iris, patchouli, melted dark chocolate, rose, black pepper and tobacco. Lovely dark & spicy floral scent, perfectly unisex in my opinion.

I got “farm saddle horse” too, like mentioned below. I gave it 20 minutes to see if the top notes fade into something better but gave up and washed it off.

For a classy yet down to earth guy. Unassuming and mostly inoffensive, though far from being unimpressive. Spectacular. A standout.