Aqua Manda

I feel unspeakably lucky to have a vintage bottle of the original Aqua Manda formula by Goya. Based on Fragrantica’s userbase, it appears that the 2013 reformulation of the scent by Beauty Brand Development was not well-loved by the original fans of this fragrance, and that’s disappointing. I, for one, love this scent. It definitely smells “vintage” to my modern palate, but that’s not a turn-off to me. I’ve only applied a blot to my wrist, but I think this is unfortunately a subtle skin fragrance. I’m curious as to whether it ever had a strong sillage; I have noticed that my vintage fragrances all tend to be like this, so I suspect it’s just an unfortunate byproduct of aging for decades. The strongest note is the rind from a Seville orange, full of zest. No sweetness. Slightly powdery. Musky and somewhat medicinal, very similar to an orange essential oil. It’s complimented by a wonderful, uplifting herbal accord that’s hard to parse into individual notes. I think the lack of sweetness is what prevents the fragrance from being cloying, despite the medicinal quality. The fragrance feels very natural and realistic, but I wonder if I only have that impression because of my nonexistent experience with modern natural perfumery. I already think that I will truly treasure this fragrance as one of my most prized possessions. I really don’t know that it would suit most people in the modern day, but it suits me perfectly.

I find it interesting that this claims it was launched in 2013, as this was my first fragrance at 14 nearly FIFTY years ago. I loved the citrus, woody scent even then. I bought it from our local chemist, in our little village Scotland. He used to have all those giant glass bottles ranging along the top of the shelves with their Latin abbreviations on them. Very mysterious. The expensive perfumes were behind the counter. Yardley & Coty were on the shelves. There was a lovely spicy rose one, but Aqua Manda was for me. They also sold the most beautiful lemon soap in the shape & size of a lemon, wrapped in white tissue paper that I used to buy for my mother. I wish I could find that again. They also sold Roger & Gallet soap. Oh the carnation! Divine. I’m off to buy some Aqua Manda to see if it is the fragrance I remember.

I use to adore the original when I was a young girl in London during the swinging sixties. This along with Sea Jade were my constant perfumes. I have not tried this reformulated version and wonder will it ever be as good as the original.? Maybe I will just keep my memories and give this a miss as well.

The original wasn’t a weak toilet water like this seems to be. Or maybe the ghost of Aqua Manda. It’s all about the bass. I mean the base. The new one has no depth or staying power. I thought it would bring my youth back. Incidentally why and when was it discontinued ?

Aqua Manda is one of those perfumes which provoked, and still provokes, a massive emotional response in those who loved it. My late mother was the biggest fan of Aqua Manda, and of other fragrances which had a pronounced citrus/spice/deep herbal note. I cannot remember a time when a sweet fragrance was given house room. I had an opportunity to test this, via the Bring Back Aqua Manda FB group. Sorry. It’s nothing like Aqua Manda. Not even close. It is weak, powdery, with an almost buttery, creamy, vanilla undertone, which has absolutely no business being there. Something has gone awry here. The citrus is barely there, the herbs contain zero impact. Remember the scent of thyme, rosemary, sage, coriander, sharp lavender, tarragon? The earthiness of oakmoss? The whizzbang opening of Aqua Manda like splitting an orange/mandarin right under your nose and getting a bit of the juice in your eye? The slightly sunkissed moisture tinge of kisser’s coriander? None of that is present. Maybe this should have been marketed “An Impression of Aqua Manda”. To say this is to an original recipe is flirting with disaster. I can see sons and daughters buying this for their mothers, knowing how much they loved it of yesteryear, and mothers worldwide having to smile sweetly and pretend it’s AquaManda. It isn’t. At thirty odd quid a throw, it’s an expensive mistake to make. I am certain, that with a little more application, and quality ingredients, it could have been brought nearer, even with the regulations, as there are other perfumes which are holding those precious notes together despite the regs. Sadly, I feel this version has been produced to capitalize on nostalgia and pressie buying just in time for Christmas. The perfume was created without consulting those who campaigned for it and supported the company who eventually marketed it. Big mistake. If you want to know the time, ask a policeman. If you want to know how to make bread, ask the baker. If you want to know what it felt like to be on the beach on D Day, ask a veteran who was there. If you want to know if your chemists are getting it right while you try to recreate AM – don’t ask a man who never wore it, or one who probably hadn’t actually been born when his mum wore it. Ask the campaigners. Ask those who love it. Ask those who lived through it, sprayed it, soaped it, talcum powdered it and love it enough to make a noise about it. There has been a steady flow of BBAM members who have, shall we say, had their gruntles well and truly dissed by the recreated version of AM. Always polite first, and homicidal later, myself and several other members of the BBAM campaign pointed out to BBD's representative that the formula was definitely NOT the Aqua manda we knew and loved. Unfortunately, we were greeted with stonewalling, denial, accusations of being middle aged and therefore deficient in perfume recognition, "bombarded with transparently bogus science" and in some cases, accusations of sabotage! In cases like this, I for one, always printscreen before the offender has a chance to delete. ;-) In all my correspondences with perfume houses and perfumers, I have yet to meet another company or individual who would react like that. For my own part, I can tell you, dear perfumista, that Parfum d`Empire Iskander is damn close to AM, and a whoosh of a good sharp Neroli over the top of it (such as that found in Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli for example), brings it even closer to home. Aqua Manda demands Neroli, demands zesty, poke in the eye citrus, coriander, a twist of allspice and meditteranean herbiness. It’s NOT a bad little fragrance, if you like ti smell like a packet of Refreshers (fizzy sweets), but not definitely NOT Aqua Manda in anything but name. Trades description violation much? For ladies of a certain age, the search continues. And continues with fervour.