Sayat Nova

Anyone familiar with Bortnikoff fragrances is aware that he and Russian Adam both beast mode fragrances. Each one I have tired I have rated at 9 or 10 out of ten. Now however I may have to give a 10+ to Sayat Nova. Not only does it follow the Bortnikoff DNA it also has Rajesh Balkrishnan adding his magic that makes this a treasure for anyone lucky enough to find a bottle or even a sample. Rajesh is not as prolific at Bortnikoff, but his fragrances are legendary (and hard to get a hold of because they are put out in limited edition. I have already reviewed Di Ser Keman, Rajesh’s scent that is up for an Olfactory Award this year. I waxed poetic about it because it is far more than a scent, it is a life experience. It isn’t a beast, but it projects well and stays around for hours. With Sayat Nova I will also mention poetry for two reasons. First the fragrance comes as a result of an attempt to capture the essence of a famous Armenian traveling poet who incorporated visuals as well as words. The second is that the fragrance unfolds its notes in a poetic way. The longevity on this is with one spray at least 10 hours. This is much more of an epic poem rather than a fleeting lyric. But instead of armas virumque cano (the opening of The Aeneid “of arms and the man I sing” which Beaufort tries to capture in a scent), this one is less about stoic heroism and more about the celebration of life. As an Oriental gourmand I am not sure I have smelled one that comes close. It has a Bornikoffian DNA, but Rajesh has added his magic and the sum is greater than its parts. The apricot is full on from the time the fragrance touches the skin. But it is just the opening salvo as the rare Ouds, Rum, Vanilla are all major players. Everything about the scent speaks of the care taken to include rare ouds and other ingredients that make it epic. When I love a fragrance, I find myself sniffing my wrist throughout the day. With Sayat Nova I don’t have to sniff my wrist. The silage is, to switch metaphors, akin to the opening notes of a few of Beethoven’s works. And yet is so good that I find myself still sniffing my wrists so I can get even more intoxicated. It is a dark and thick scent. Rajesh has let me know it is not to be sprayed on clothing as it might discolor them. However I am almost sure if some did get on clothing, it would still be noticeable weeks, and possibly months, afterward. There must be thousands of fragrances with Vanilla, Oud, and Rum. There are not that many with Apricot, there are fewer still with the rarity of these ouds or vanilla. We as a species are, after all, just a bunch of common elements, and similar DNA at 99+%, yet tiny differences are what make us us. The same can be said about what separates fragrances with similar notes. If you can sample this fragrance you will know why I wax poetic. But there is more to the story of this Fragrance. I really think some people may not require sleep. Having come to know Rajesh (almost all remotely except when we waved at each other as I picked up my bottle of Sayat Nova), I learned that he is a professor at the University of Virginia. Not only is he a professor but he has been interviewed for his expertise on the effects of Covid-19. Here is a link to the interview. He responds to messages usually in seconds and posts a lot of his various social media pages about fragrances and other issues too. Here is a link to his interview of the social impact of Covid-19 i can be found on Youtube. I am honored to know him and look forward to sampling (and hopefully purchasing) more of his poetry in motion in the form of fragrance. I have received no compensation of any sort for the views I have shared here.

This perfume is a masterpiece. I have invested in both the attar, as well as the extrait. So I will speak about their unifying qualities, after which I will delve into what sets the two apart. Sayat Nova opens with a burst of a shimmering, golden apricot accord, completely composed of natural materials. The genius of this accord rests in how it stretches across the top, heart AND basenotes of this fragrance. On top, I recognize a use of natural apricot isolates, which provide necessary zing and freshness. The fruitiness of the apricot nuzzles right in with Sayat Nova's heart, composed of sweet vanilla and ouds dancing alongside gracefully. Finally, the base of oakmoss harmonizes perfectly with the apricot, and lends a long lasting fruity tartness to the entire accord. The top is also quite boozy. There is a rum note which jumps out at me in beginning, and takes this fragrance in a tropical direction; however, the rum's booziness on top is balanced with a fresh, fluttering, narcissus, keeping the fragrance from tilting syrupy, or overly rich. Once the heart of this fragrance develops, a creamy, oudy vanilla envelops you, and relaxes every muscle in your body. The vanillas and ouds used here are completely natural, never too sweet, and always in a perfect earthy, saccharine, and woody balance. Finally the dry-down. Oakmoss. Oh, how I love oakmoss. Inky, earthy, creamy, tart oakmoss. This is a LOT of oakmoss, but I don't mind. It plays with the apricot on top, lends an earthy, creamy hand to vanilla in the mid, and drys down with the rich Laotian oud in the base, lasting on skin for hours on end. Wearing this perfume is an indulgent, healing experience. Hats off to Balkrishnan and Bortnikoff, who have, in my opinion, created a magnum opus. This is a reference quality scent for ALL gourmands. If you have the means to sample this, I highly encourage you to do so. Be warned, you will want to buy it. Now lets delve into the difference between the attar and the extrait. In my wearing experience, I found there to be one central distinction, and that is the tartness of the oakmoss used in the two variations. This changes each unique phase of the two perfumes for me. The attar's oakmoss is noticeably tarter, as well as just more omnipresent. In the topnotes, the apricot comes off tarter, and fresher in the attar, whereas, in the extrait, I'd consider the apricot note a touch riper, and richer. In the heart, vanilla is less of a main player in the attar, and more of a supporting note to the oakmoss. This phase is a touch less creamy, but more earthy. And finally, in the drydown, the attar's oakmoss is everlasting, and will remain on your skin until you wash it off. I admire both equally, and will likely wear the attar on warmer days than I would wear the extrait. This fragrance has become the crown jewel of my collection, and likely will for yours as well. I want to add briefly that I don't smell many similarities between Sayat Nova, and Baque. Both are beautiful, sweet gourmands, and both have an apricot note listed, but that is where the comparisons end in my book. Perhaps the reviewer who likened the two confused Baque's use of oakwood for vanilla, as baque is a oak and tobacco HEAVY fragrance. Peace and love!

Bortnikoff’s Sayat Nova is a richly textured, oriental-woody composition. Inspired by the Armenian poet and troubadour of the same name, the fragrance is a mature, complex and unique narrative driven scent. Layered and evocative of both opulence and introspection. The opening is marked by a vivid apricot accord - both fresh and dried - paired with narcissus. These top notes create a fruity-floral introduction that is lush but not sweet. If you are not used to independent perfumery compositions, you may already feel overwhelmed at this point. In fact, the narcissus adds a green, slightly animalic edge, hinting at the complexity to come. As SN transitions into the heart, the mood deepens. Rum and vanilla emerge, lending a boozy warmth and creaminess. These notes act as a bridge between the brightness of the top and the darker, more resinous base. The vanilla is balsamic (and not sweet gourmand, as some reviewers stated), and it is used to temper the richness (heaviness?) of the oud and other base materials. The base is very intricate. A trio of ouds (Laotian, Bengali, and Trat... and I won't pretend that I can pinpoint all of them singularly) form a backbone, of smokiness, medicinal sharpness, and woody depth. Oakmoss adds an earthy, slightly bitter greenness. The leather note, while not listed explicitly in the official pyramid, is present as a nuanced effect rather than a dominant theme. It appears to arise from the interplay between the narcissus, oakmoss, and darker oud facets. I agree with other reviewers who said that the leather in SN is dry, smoky, a bit animalic. To me, it smells like heavily worn suede. It does not overwhelm the composition at any point, but rather weaves through the base. In terms of performance, Sayat Nova has a moderate projection for the first couple of hours. Then it wears close to the skin, but with a persistent gradual evolution. Longevity is substantial, 10-12 hours on skin - which will be stained by this juice (i.e. don't even think about spraying on light garments). If you are planning to see other humans, my advice is to spray SN 30 minutes before contact: this will ensure that the fragrance is developed enough to not overwhelm others with the melancholic power of the Armenian apricot.

What can I say that hasn't already been said? Sayat Nova is a opens with a wall of vanilla and rum, a touch of apricot. The gourmand notes are what you will notice first, but then the blend of ouds form the base and give this perfume a very interesting complexity. The floral notes provide a dab of lightness that helps take the sharpness off the vanilla. The ouds provide an earthy base perfect for bringing you back from the wall of vanilla, rum and apricot. It is not a light scent. It is a heavy, unapologetic, wave of complexity gourmand. Frankly I do not like vanilla in perfume. I feel it has been overused. But if anyone can get me to enjoy vanilla, it is Dmitri and he has done it. I initially bought a 10ml decant of sayat nova. The first time I smelled this, i thought it was nice. The second time I wore it, i found myself liking it more. After the 3rd time, I decided it was worth a full bottle. To my surprise, Sayat nova has received the most compliments from people that smell it on me. @scentcritique I feel that is a little harsh. Baque was the first slumberhouse i ever purchased and remains one of my all time favorites. I am a slumberhead admittedly. I have more bottles from that house than any other. To me, baque has more of a unripe boozy peach vibe. boozy in this case is whiskey. the woody note in baque gives me more of a oak barrel feel, going back to the whiskey smell. the other main note baque presents that sayat nova does not I feel is the fresh tobacco leaf. I see a vanilla note listed in Baque, but can't really detect it to my nose. Bortnikoff has been making gourmand/ouds since his first release and I think Sayat Nova compliments his style. Most of the enthusiasts I know that enjoy Slumberhouse were also big fans of Bortnokoff before Sayat Nova's release and generally all like Sayat Nova as well. You can find comparisons that yes they are both heavy boozy gourmands with apricot notes but I still fell there is a large contrast between the rum/whiskey and the ouds and florals of Sayat Nova versus the tobacco woody-ness of Baque. Both are masterpieces, but this post is entirely for Sayat Nova's praise and credit.

Sayat Nova is a traveler. Youthful with golden year wisdom. On a road. A discovery not intended to be found. It is a perfume of constant arrivals. A sliver of the story. Here we meet our traveler, traversing winding roads with a bright moon compass. Sore but grateful feet. A wicker pack full of the world’s delicacies. Ripe and dried apricots. Caramel colored salted pistachios. The finest cocoa powder. Aromatic vanilla beans. Pressed narcissus petals from a lost love. And, a bottle of dark liqueur, potent and a good listener. Many miles, already. Many more to go. Ahead, the faint flicker of a candle flame. A cottage in the woods. This is where the traveler will rest for the night. But not without a cost. The fruits and nuts. The flowers and booze. The price for place to lie. For the chocolate and vanilla, it can even be a bed. The traveler nods, kneels, and unloads the pack. The fruits and nuts and flowers. Even the booze. But not the chocolate. Nor the vanilla. They’re too precious to let go. The cottage owner nods and points to a wooden mattress of soil and mulch at the edge of the forest. A formal bow. Across the yard. Shoes off. Knees, hands, head. The clouds cover the moon. The candle plumes smoke. The night sky darkens where our traveler finds comfort in the womb of sleep. Little by little, and then all at once. Sleep. Sleep. Sleep. How tasty the chocolate will be for breakfast. Sleep. Sleep. Dream. This perfume opens with a photorealistic apricot note and a chocolate liqueur accord. There is also a flash of woods that foreshadows what is to come, but quickly settles into the background. Slowly the apricot and booze give way to a soft floral heart which gives way to a dense woody vanilla base. The chocolate stays for the life of this fragrance. I would call this a gourmand woody aromatic. Inviting projection. Not loud but noticeable. And two shower longevity. I gorgeous and gentle piece of art that I would wear to a cold-weather family holiday, a cuddle night in, or on a solo road trip to reflect and dream. 10/10

Sayat Nova, a collaboration between Dmitry and Rajesh Balkrishnan, opens with one of the most photorealistic fruit notes I’ve ever experienced. At first my mind thought it was cherry, but almost instantly I realized it was apricot, something I haven’t experienced in perfumery before. This combines with the narcissus giving a sweet, fruity white floral. Very luxurious and beautiful. Carrying on vanilla and rum enter, mixing beautifully with the apricot to create a gourmand, that at the same time isn’t overly sweet and cloying. I’ve always wanted something from bortnikoff with vanilla or some form of booze, so to get them both in one, mixed in with a fantastic fruit, needless to say I’m very excited. Reaching the drydown a medley of Bengal, Laos and Trat ouds join the party along with some oakmoss. While the oakmoss doesn’t really come through a whole lot on my skin (possibly used to help keep the perfume from becoming overly sweet?), the oud is fantastic. As somewhere who regularly wears oud oils alone, I would confidently say the wood used here is very high quality. This oud is creamy, almost chocolate smelling. Free of any barnyard or fecal notes, this is an oud safe for this who are often wary of oud perfumes. This is among my favorite of Dmitry (and Rajesh’s) work to date. The quality feels just as evident as everything else I’ve smelled from the line, while also being one of his more interesting compositions in my mind. Overall I’d recommend grabbing a bottle if it’s within budget. It’s not cheap, but I do think it’s a treasure.

It smells to me like a powdery boozy apricot on a blanket of fine dark tobacco....... There is a nice dose of tobacco (or so it smells) which is not listed in the notes here but can be smelled very clearly at times.....the nicotine in the tobacco can claw at your throat if you spray too much, so less is more with this perfume but those who love a rich tobacco note should try this. I find this perfume to be very appealing......It is masculine, but it is also the type of masculine that i would have a cheeky spray of now and again. Think of an old bar, boozy liquors and leather furniture, pipe tobacco and after a few hours it settles into the comfort of a warm evening. Apricot but with powder and depth so as not to allow it to become to juicy or sickly/ sticky smelling. This is a nice perfume (apricot done right) and one thing that i noted and found to be very good is that: the apricot fades back a bit in the middle as the powder intensifies, but then it pushes back through after about 3 hours or so back up to the same strength it was at the beginning.....this is good because it avoids the need for re spray, which would end up being too much. I have not tried the attar version but I am now thinking about picking up a vial just to see how it compares to the extrait perfume. Price wise I think this is on point......a 9ml costs $90 which will last quite a while as it is extrait strength and has tones of lasting power.

I finally got Sayat and wore it last night on my arm and today on my neck. Glad I paused on my thoughts until today because I understand it a little better now. When I spray it on, I get this fragrance like I’ve just opened a bottle of vanilla beans and dried apricots that have been tinctured in XO Rum for quite a long time. Boozy, but not synthetic, sickening boozy...thankfully not too much either. Honestly, I have to say this is the most decadently rich vanilla fragrance I’ve ever smelled. That boozy tincture is met by a creamy-sweet narcissus that when combined with the Vanilla, Apricot, and Rum immediately makes me think of a combination of creme brûlée and bananas foster. The “banana” is actually a ghost note, but the hint is enough for me to get that feeling. Caramelized sugars of flambeed fruits and booze swimming in thick vanilla ice cream/custard. The dry down is extremely long...I get teases of milk chocolate between the vanilla and apricot with some very lightly resinous woody aspects. 18 hours later, the spot I sprayed on my arm last night is just now starting to *really* show the Oudy qualities with soft projection. I would easily place this up there with Cafe Ambre Noir and L’Heure Exquise as one of my favorite gourmands of all time. Definitely my favorite vanilla-forward fragrance ever. It is sweet, but not cloying and an absolute love. Dmitry and Rajesh have really created something special here.

This is something special. While I don't mind vanilla, fruit, and/or booze in my fragrances, they're far from my favorite notes. But just after wearing this for one day I know this will be a favorite. On initial spray I got a blast of apricot, a fruit I'm not too familiar with but smells incredible, super sweet but with just enough tart to keep it from being unbalanced. The vanilla is there too, unmistakable in the background, along with a light, smooth floral note. After a minute I experienced a moment of pleasant oud, but it didn't stick around for long as was lost in the blend pretty quick. It started to settle down for me about 10 minutes in, the fruit calming down, the vanilla rising up. It's so well blended that trying to pick up the rum and the oud early on is very difficult, but you can smell the effect they have on the composition. The rum becomes more and more prominent through the life of the fragrance, with the ouds giving it a smooth, creamy depth. For me it was intoxicatingly pleasant, even delicious, from start to finish. Beautifully simplistic while being stunningly complex. One full spray gave me 6 hours of thick sillage and above average projection, and I can still smell it on my skin 12 hours later. Well done Dmitry Bortnikoff and Rajesh Balkrishnan! 10/10

I have mixed feelings about this one. It's been hyped on YouTube, and the number of reviews for this versus, say, L'heure Exquise, here on Fragrantica tells me that the hype train is running strong. I've sampled just about everything in the Bortnikoff line and I have to be honest - there are others that I like way more. Tabac Doré. Lao Oud. Oud Sinharaja. L'heure Exquise. Musk Khabib. Oud Maximus. Triad. In my opinion, all better than Sayat Nova. I find it pleasant after it dries down. The opening blast is an unsweetened apricot, vanilla, and a kind of acrid metallic twinge that is initially unpleasant - maybe the rum, oakmoss, or some sharper component of one of the ouds? That goes away after about a minute and it really sweetens up and the fruit is more noticeable. I've also heard other reviewers refer to this scent as smoky. I don't get any smoke at all. Maybe a dusty, chalky sensation from the oud, but no smoke. So, yes, it's an enjoyable, sweet/woody gourmand. Light years ahead of anything designer, but I feel it's slightly overrated compared to other offerings from the house. 7/10 EDIT: Okay, it's been several months and I'm won over. It's not hype. This smells absolutely amazing. It's as good as everyone says. New rating: 9.5/10 (Tip: try layering with Tabac Dore!)

Sayat Nova is a delicious interpretation of an interesting and original idea. The perfume is a vanilla apricot delight, that lasts a long time and has a fairly linear structure. The oakmoss is very prominent to me. The fact that not many people seem to talk about it or notice it demonstrates how much of an opportunity it is in these (IFRA) days to smell natural Oakmoss Absolute in a perfume (...and surprise, no-one's complained about rashes ^o^). But the greater accomplishment is that SN has managed to open people's minds to exploring new territory, and promote eclecticism in taste. I myself, who shied away from 'gourmands' now have a new perception on what is possible and likable, and have a new family of perfume to explore. Coincidentally, this perfume has thus also brought life to the legacy of Sayat Nova, spreading art and poetry across realms and divides to liberate mind and soul. I look forward to the next exciting creation. It goes to show the great things we can create by collaborating and working together to build, rather than tear each other apart.

This collaboration between Rajesh Balkrishnan and Bortnikoff is my favourite in the Bortnikoff line up. My first tought when I smelled Sayat Nova was chocolat. Dark rich bitter chocolat kissed by vanilla. The chocolat vibe is the characteristic of the Sri Lankan oud used in this perfume. I get a kind of gourmand feeling, but its not sweet, but more leaning boozy and woody. It is a dark and mysterious blend full of quality oils (do not spray on clothes). After the perfume has dried down a bit, the apricot come to life together with the chocolaty oud and vanilla. I love apricot in fragrances when done right and here it is! I don’t get much floral notes, but I guess they play their role as part of the whole. Overall, Sayat Nova is a complex and original blend of pleasant oud, vanilla, apricot and boozy notes. I love when perfume is artwork, but at the same time is wearable. Sayat Nova is quite easy to wear in most context, and you will smell unique and have an aura of mystery around you. Easy 10/10 according to my taste.

Despite all of the heavy, sweet, treacly-sounding notes, this is a well-balanced and beautiful gourmand. To my nose, it starts off with a sweet apricot and spiced rum/alcohol opening. From there it segues into a woody, creamy vanilla and oakmoss that is well-balanced with a smokiness that seems like it comes from oud or cade. The fruit and booziness is definitely front and center in the opening and recedes a bit after the top notes burn off, but all of the elements of the scent are there from beginning to end. The thing that lingers longest to me is the inky oakmoss combined with vanilla. It feels linear (what you see is what you get vs. a total roller coaster ride of evolution), but that isn't a bad thing in this case. I was worried about the sweetness and it being cloying and overwhelming, but it is surprisingly restrained. I wouldn't douse yourself in it in the heat, but a few sprays and it's still fairly discreet. I look forward to seeing how it performs in the winter.

This might be the best perfume I have smelled, and I have tested a thousand. This is extremely dense without being cloying or overwhelming. This is an extrait, which means it needs the warmth of your skin to create projection. Skin chemistry en temperature changes the characteristics of the scent slightly so you're always presented with a unique and individual experience. This scent reminds me of nothing from my childhood, yet I feel extreme nostalgia while wearing this. The quality ouds have an almost psychedelic effect, producing a calm yet emotional contentedness. The overripe apricot with the highest quality vanillas produce a harmony that keeps pulling you in. It is a scent that changes throughout the wear and aks your attention the whole way through. This is one that must be experienced to know. A grading seems out of place, but this is the scent in my collection that I feel connected to the most.

Rich, complex, dense and extremely well put together. It sprays on dark - be careful with clothes etc. as it will stain. When spraying onto skin please pat in gently. The oud is soft, what I detect more of is the woody aspect and the soft creamy vanilla with a dash of powder notes and rich booze. It keeps revealing something new with each wear. If you love a long complex dry down journey then Sayat Nova is for you. Please note, this fragrance isn't beginner friendly. Is the overall scent sweet or cloying? Not at all, it's incredibly well balanced, it's unisex leaning masculine. UPDATE: Wore it again today, the woody note was very strong and overpowered the other notes. Literally smelled like a carpentry workshop on me. Speaking of revealing something new with each wear lol. Although nice, the strong woody note has put me off for now.

After waiting for almost a month, the long awaited Sayat Nova is finally here. I won't say if its worth the price or not, but what I will say is that this certainly is well worth the wait. Upon first sniff I was immediately taken away by the rum note, then the thick syrupy apricot came into play. This really takes me back to my childhood when I used to eat sundried apricots. The sweetness and richness of those dried apricots are perfectly reconstructed in this fragrance. The Aouds and Oakmoss solidifies the overall composition preventing it from being too sweet. The Aouds used in here is deep and dark; thus creating a creamy, velvety dark chocolate effect. As a gourmand fan, I adore this creation very much. I only got this fragrance for a couple of days, yet I want to drink this already. 10/10 for my taste and nose.

I don’t get apricot in any literal sense, but there’s definitely a soft fruitiness that brings sweetness without ever becoming sugary. I don’t specifically smell rum either, though I absolutely pick up the boozy warmth. The vanilla, if anything, reads more like vanilla extract than a creamy or gourmand vanilla. The ouds and oakmoss are where this really comes alive for me. They’re smoky, resinous, slightly earthy, but not dense or heavy. The narcissus and magnolia seem to sit quietly underneath everything and round out the composition rather than reading as obvious florals. It’s beautifully blended to my nose. As it settles, it becomes more of a dry, smoky oud than a thick, chewy oud, which I really love. This gives me ALL the fall and winter feels. Dark, warm, textured and just a little mysterious. I love it.

Collaborations like this one demand a bow Independent house and nose meet and the magic appears. Mind you, I am not that fond of gourmand fragrances, but the listed notes made me want to try. The result is breathtaking in terms of balance and opulence with the fruit star, apricot, ripe apricot, real, that makes me drool... The boozy effect stays behind and help the fruity note to linger throughout the journey. Vanilla plays a role, too, with its sweet/rooty tone that enhance my drooling yearn... The Ouds/moss foundation wraps it all up and certifies you’re having an affair with one of the most daring/outstanding fragrance out there, Longevity is 24 h + Funny note: Sayat is an aphrodisiac enhancer .. I have been eaten all up while waking moments' ago ...

I don’t have much experience with real oud. I’ve always had Arabian dupes that mimic- to varying degrees of success, real oud. I bought a decant of Bortnikof Mysterious Oud and absolutely fell in love with it. So I decided to get this one. Wowza! This is the deepest fragrance I’ve ever smelled. Resinous vanilla and rum like character and charred wood with this undeniable barnyard element that I think will challenge anyone not used to ouds. I feel like I’m in a horse stable and there’s dry hay and horse poo under my boots. I mean that in the best way possible lol. If you love fragrances, and of course you do, try this. Get a small decant and see what oud really can be. The dupes got nothing on this.

Well, this is delicious. I would like to begin by noting that I think a top tier gourmand like this is extraordinarily difficult to create. It opens with a burst of juicy, fresh apricot. I also get dried apricot in the background.It intertwines with delicious rum and mouth watering vanilla. A chocolate powdery oud and cherry start to reveal themselves. It is a delicious dessert in a bottle. I am going to have to figure out how to 'copy' this fragrance by making a similar dessert out of the ingredients. The oud is slightly woodsy, but on my nose smells like chocolate powder. Just a delicious yummy mouth watering scent. Bravo!