Subversif

On first spray, Subversif reminds me of Thierry Mugler Angel -- strong patchouli with some rich green notes, lots and lots of texture (I was never a fan). What I like so much better in this fragrance is that it is so much cleaner, better structured without the need for overly sweet crowd pleasing chewiness. There is room to breathe while still commanding respect with its strong character. Subversif is raw yet refined, bitter in its greenness with bright bergamot at the top. The green bergamot note knits seamlessly with the cassis / blackcurrant leaf, transitioning from luminous citrus to deep verdance, carrying the patchouli all the way. Vetiver is present but not dominant, rooty and earthy and giving body to the dry cinnamon. Tobacco is an accent that offers richness and depth without smoke; just a lovely, sensual smoulder. Fig and ambergris are coupled together in this composition, very smooth, a little animalic and weaving all the well-chosen notes together without adding too much weight, only more depth and a little natural sweetness, occasionally sauntering into a live coconut grove. Heliotrope lends opulence without being deliberately floral, just an opalescent sparkle now and then which compliments the subtle smooth fresh leather texture. Subversif is so multifaceted, very unique, and holds my interest all the way through its evolution and for the duration that this remains on my skin, which by the way bears great longevity and sillage. I would say this leans slightly toward the masculine side of unisex with its bitter, dark green heart, but is also one that I can easily wear for its beautiful, subversive rebellion. Subversif is a big love for me and goes to the top of my want list.

If Farah was a hit then Subversif is a knockout!! God Bless the perfumer. There's a lot going on here. Plenty of notes are detectable. The patchouli is very distinguished and smells nice and Bohemian to the core(more about the patchouli later). There's a dash of bergamot used here to tenderize the woody quality the same way you would tenderize a steak. The cinnamon has an inconsistent presence until the fig shows up. What was believed to be a wanderer of a note is actually committed to the warm milky fig. A Mexican horchata is seemingly born. You will quickly learn of the Janus-faced nature of this fragrance. This is a spooky perfume. It has that malevolent green grave robber feel to it. The leather adds to the threatening nature. To make matters weirder, the cowhide note actually smells like the rubber sole of a shoe. That aroma lives as the base for some of the middle part. The heliotrope, cassis and tobacco are used like botox fillers ridding the composition of the blemishes. The patchouli note wears many hats while never fumbling: Lead Performer, Host and Closer. The bushy herb arrives with the "Hey look at me character" then it sorta plays the background but later resurfaces to let you know that it's the King Joffe Joffer note of Subversif. Welp...there you have it! Another fragrance that you can officially add to your want list. No doubt you will smile from mandible to mandible. BLIND BUY WORTHY

An excellent fragrance, I was instantly intrigued and liked this fragrance. This fragrance starts with the top fresh citrusy and fruity notes; the combination of the three top notes is great. But even from the first spray and sniff, you understand that this is not a typical fragrance and there is a lot in the background you should wait. After a couple of minutes, the fresh top notes are blended with leathery, and warm spicy notes. It could not be a better end: The patchouli with its earthiness, and depth, mixed with warm, welcoming tobacco, and animalc, and complex ambergris. The best possible choices for the base. I don't know how she ended up with these choices, but honestly, they work very well. One of the reviewers said it's a combination of the three best Amouage and I agree with that, you see some structure of the Interlude from Amouage (around 30%, it's not a clone or a copy), but unlike Interlude that is very heavy and low versatile, this one keeps the character and depth but it has the beauty of french perfumery and very wearabel. To me, a fragrance should be, original, rich, deep, with character and personality, yet versatile and wearable. And this fragrance gets high scores for most of these parameters. This is the first fragrance I tested from Emilie Bouge, but I truly enjoyed that. 8.5/10

#965 in my "Tour de Fragrance" Got this as a decant. Gotta say I have become a big fan of figgy scents generally and this one is a great fig scent. The only source I can find for it is eBay at just under $200. Around the same price range as BDK "Gris Charnel", which lacks the tobacco and leather notes, so I think works better for women than this. This is also a tad more masculine leaning that Mancera "Fig Extasy", but not enough to make a $120 price differential worth it to me. And although I would not pick this over Vilhelm Parfumerie "Basilico & Fellini", that scent is about $80 more expensive than this and not worth the price differential. This does have all the good stuff. Strong fig note, strong leather note, tobacco, ambergris. Fine for office wear or date night. It's right up there with the best Amouage and legacy Mugler scents in quality. I can't imagine anyone would be disappointed with this performance. Lasts all day and into the night. But save yourself some cash and just get the Mancera "Fig Extasy."

In love. Wonderful classy smell for cold weather. Suede bomb with a lot of sweet fruitiness and some aromatic elements. This is also very cheap so it’s a must have. Buying in 3,2,1...

Although it's not mentioned, but this smells heavy on pinapple. Think of Amouage Interlude with Pinapple, performance is absolutely amazing.

This is a nice figgy leather. Perfectly blended and asts forever.

I liked it. It smells a bit like "Interlude" for men by Amouage.

Brecourt Subversif: Classy, Mysterious, Alluring. A charismatic dandy man in a fine-taylored black suit, crimson scarf, and a dark cosy overcoat, which as well carries the heavy scent of the recently-smoked tobacco, having a solitary walk on a crisp winter eve with the faint moonlight gently lighting up the dark sky. The scent goes towards the sweeter direction in the dry down stage, but deep down there is still something bleak to it. The whole progression of the scent reminds me of the evolution of Dorian Gray, in Wilde’s literary masterpiece. Through the passage of time, the fruity opening gives its place to the heavier scents emitted from cinnamon and tobacco. And it’s right there where the scent ends; right where Dorian Gray ends. Dark, Full of Mystery, and Bleak... 8.25/10 (2017 batch)

You want to find out how good is this one, right ? Well, it is like the best Amouage for men, ever. It is like you are mixing yourself 25% Beach Hut Man, with 35% Memoir Man, with 40% Interlude Man. The power of this is super beast mode. The projection is huge. One of the best fragrances I have ever put my nose on, as it gives a huge pleasure. It is so oriental in style. And it is sweet tobacco.

My sample smells like Memo Italian Leather almost identically just not as herbal and potent. I'm a bit disappointed however because I heard this used to smell different, darker, sweeter & more anamalic like Layton exclusif. It smells good but I already own Italian Leather.

Does anyone know if this was reformulated? I've received a decant of this a while ago, and then bought a bottle, and they are wildly different. The decant is dark, reminiscent of Layton Exclusif. The full bottle smells like very sweet tomatoes. Fruity and not dark at all.

I always will have a bottle of this in my closet. It is fruity woody figgy and blended with some roughness that just works fantastic. A more refined Layton I would say. I just love the whole combo. Easy blind buy if you like a perfume with character. 8 out of 10 !!

mihais I bought the new one version, with 4 small bottles into the box, but the perfume is reformulated.. not as deep as his previous brother.