Brut

Dreamful potion, far before the current idle and non-descriptive period of generic boredom. This could be the cheap, nostalgic line of a boomer in search&rescue of a golden age never existed. And I believed so, until when recently I consistently retested on an a everyday use Brut, in a completely different context, and after more than a decade of disillusionment about the current rendition (so strange are our senses, and our mind in processing information!). By steps, and to start with, Brut is possibly- as many from the X generation- a first memory, an imprinting feel hardwired in the collective imaginary. This was the quintessential perfume for male, beloved son of a grand French tradition, conjuring lush undertones as from the bois in the outskirts of Paris (please have a walk in a French Forest and you will understand). Distilled from extracting genial ideas and discernment from Karl Mann, and Cary Grant’s commitment, casted an aura of refinement and became music for the masses, without losing charme - and this as the middle class and the bourgeoisie spirit was well alive in the ‘60es and decades thereafter, and a cologne could have been niche while widely distributed. This is for sure part of the spell. The ladies could immediately identify it as archetypical Fougere male odour, and men use it with confidence as signature- so personal while so well distributed and accessible. Coming to the recent Brut- this is not a pale copy of the past! Unilever did a formidable job and I deem it very much depends more on the olfactory context we dwell in. I am now in the Le Berger hotel in Brussels- it’s the city where I rediscovered Brut in more recent years. The Art Deco’ hotel is a remnant of a former rendez-vous house, with chiselled decoration and adhering to the Belle Époque fascination, recalling Brut’s bottle logo. Brut opulence here makes perfect sense and shines -maybe it’s the climate, temperature or context. Street odours are from last century indeed- urinal smell, some dirtiness and confusion, fried chips whiffs and stale beer. The beast here It is in its perfect habitat, as a clean backdrop - playing on this contrast (not by chance perfumes from last century “smelled clean” on purpose and in a medicinal way, whereas the context was for the most part dirty and insecure). I really enjoy it much as safe, cozy office scent, but also can see a clearly romantic appeal. I receive appreciation from colleagues, and it makes a subtle statement, crying out “ I am here, boy, still, don’t be afraid, you found me back”. So this is a cautionary tale about all the shame&blame onto the industry. Sometimes we have to admit- our senses change upon the given context. I could never safely wear Brut in Italy, to be clear- where the background odours do not align with the scent. But in more conservative settings- oh, there is nothing any better than Brut. Caveat. Maybe the bottle I have aged a bit. Maybe I added a few mint essential oil drops, who knows. But the jewel is back, resurrected from the mist of the time. PS this staple cologne was in every family toilet (as per Nottingh Hill’movie scene with Grant displaying Brut deodorant on the shelves) -then it went disrupted by the tastier colognes (yes- Brut’s brainchildren in the likes of Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Azzaro and Drakkar Noir sweeping by large the ‘80es). I do hope it will be brought back to a new renaissance. In comparison to what Brut is and was, highly regarded pearls like Beau du Jour of TF are just kids pretending to be adult working. PPS I have both the Brut Parfums Prestige Paris 1965 (Unilever) version and the “Special Reserve” (Made in the US), green bottle with collar. Both are nice still different. The Unilever rendition delivers the better basenote and seems more loyal to the original version. The Special Reserve one seems more similar to the greener and crispier Brut 33.

Many reviews I've read on this focus on comparing it to how it was back in the day. It was, as far as I understand, very iconic decades ago and many people grew up with this. I, however, am a child of the 90s and born in a country where it was never popular to begin with, so I have no nostalgia for it. It's also, at present, the oldest fragrance formulation I own (yes, I know it's been reformulated, I'll talk about that later). So, let's see how it stacks up in the 2020s regardless. My first impressions actually weren't that great. I ordered this in a box with a couple of other frags, and this came without cellophane and had leaked out all over the box. It wasn't that the bottle was broken, the fragrance was leaking out of the top. Then I noticed that it was a screw-on top that wasn't secured in place very well. A half-turn was all it took to take the atomizer completely off. How many fragrances have screw-on atomizers these days? Well, I grabbed some plumbers tape and wrapped it around the threads before screwing it back on. Then I noticed the cap fit very loosely. Some more plumbers tape fixed that issue as well. I have to say, having to DIY a fix for my fragrance bottles isn't something I'm used to doing. To date, it's the only bottle I've ever tried to fix, as anything that comes with a leak is usually an instant return for me. Well, I decided to give it a chance anyway. And guess what? I loved it. No nostalgia, just joy. It's a very fresh, uplifting, lemony and citrusy BARBERSHOP fragrance. And when I say barbershop fragrance, I really do mean it. There are a few places still around that are actual barbershops - i.e. do actual shaving and not just hairdressing. This is what it smells like when they're done with you. It's the closest I've seen a fragrance get to the smell of a barbershop. Makes me wonder if they actually just use BRUT aftershave. In any case, I've found myself going back to this one again and again. Sometimes I just spray it on during the day for no other reason than I want to smell BRUT. I find it very pleasant and very energizing. The fact I'd choose this one over any of the other ones in my collection tells me a lot. It's very classic, old-fashioned, yet also very versatile and easy to like. Very inoffensive, unless you have PTSD from a barbershop. Most of the reviewers seem to agree it's a great casual scent, but I don't think that's where its versatility ends. What's wrong with smelling like you've just groomed to perfection at a more formal occasion? Now, would I wear this to the Oscars? Well, maybe, but probably not. Still, I really don't see any issue whatsoever with wearing this in both casual and formal occasions. It's very office safe. The performance is also surprisingly good. Many of the reviewers by guys that used to have this back in the day mention how strong it used to be and how weak it apparently is now. I don't doubt that it's been reformulated dozens of times since the 60s and that, with so many fragrance ingredients being banned or restricted, that it is considerably weaker now than it used to be. However, if you think that this is an objectively weak fragrance, as opposed to just weaker than before, then perhaps it's also time to accept that perhaps your olfactory sense might have changed, too. It might not be "beastmode", but it's definitely strong enough to last me at least 6 hours. I'm told the old formulation used to last approximately 6 weeks, so definitely a change, but still very usable. Well, they were definitely rocking it in the 60s, and I'd say this deserves to be rocked even today. They say classic style doesn't get out of fashion, and this is definitely a classic. Considering they're selling it for basically nothing, it's a safe blind buy. And I guess you can reuse the bottle for something else after you've finished it. Try it out, you might be surprised.

It's interesting... I've been kind of working my way through barbershop fragrances - a process involving some detective work and some drugstores - and recently ran into the glass bottle of 'Brut Classic' (circa 2008). I was surprised... I'd tried the plastic-bottled aftershave and something called 'special reserve'; neither of them are half as good as this. Sillage is fairly potent for the first 2-3 hours, and longevity is decent in this formulation ('classic') at 5+ hours. It's surprisingly confidence-inducing in that fougere manner, both pleasant and discreet at work if not over-applied. It takes some work to set aside the cultural baggage you may have, depending upon your age (I'm 44, probably the generation most likely to be haunted by the ghosts of authority figures past), but if you can, this is a surprisingly wearable scent... What's in it? The abstract herbal freshness conveyed by mint and basil are brief and inviting, the lavender refreshing (the mint and basil are separate from the lavender, but coordinate well), and the geranium quite pronounced, and tantalizingly citrus-springy. The yang-ylang and jasmine can take some getting used to, the former smelling a bit like plastic-wrapped hard candy, and the latter bringing in the indole of stale flower water, but - weirdly enough- this can become addictive, forming an almost honey-like accord with the well-known woody sweetness of the tonka bean. There are even hints of sandalwood and patchouli notes peaking through, producing moments of actual delight or deliciousness as the scent reacts to body heat. Anisic aldehydes keep things wet, fresh and a little bitter for the first couple of hours, easing in to a pleasant powdery-soapy-waxy continuum that emerges as a skin scent with a ghost of clean laundry musk. There is something kind of clashing in the blend of fresh, sweet, musky and medicinal, but that may well be part of the appeal, depending on your perspective. Personally, I can only wear this in spring... During any other month it does not mesh gracefully with my surroundings. Overall, I have a funny feeling people appreciate this (when you've applied it moderately) more than they realize. So what is the verdict? This particular formulation is probably no more of a 'cheapie' scent than the current state of Azzaro Pour Homme, Puig Quorum or Sung Homme (take your pick of macho masculines that have hit saturation in mass market sales.) It is probably not as well-constructed a scent as the original Old Spice; but, like Old Spice, Brut classic presents a composition that, even with its materials incrementally absented or synthesized, still possesses a legible premise and undeniably personable appeal: worth owning for reference, worth wearing for solid pleasure (or is it the pleasure of solidity?) It is friendly, affirming, sturdy and versatile in a workmanlike way; a reference scent that is neither embarrassing nor prepossessing. So, yes, on the glass shelf, next to the vintage Old Spice, nearby the Eau Sauvage and Caron Pour un Homme, and other good old things: Brut? Sure, why not -- long may it remain

Ya know, i don't like to brag but i once got into it with Chuck Norris over this beauty named Carol. It wasn't a dirty fight it was in a ring and with rules. It happened when Chuck was filming something while I was in Japan. I don't like to fight with rules but Chuck has a way of convincing you to do stuff you wouldn't otherwise. We promised each other whoever won would get to date Carol. The fight began and Chuck was puttin a good beating on me with a chop-chop here and chop-chop there. Here a chop - there a chop - everywhere a chop-chop, and we were getting to the last round. He was in his corner looking strong and confident but he had no idea I had a secret weapon. My corner man unscrewed a bottle of Brut and slapped a handful of the stuff on my face. Now, I don't know how many of you have fallen through ice in the Antarctic, if you haven't it's good to know that there are few things that will wake you up and electric shock every part of you body like that shivering experience. The Brut hit me like that, and I shot up like monstrous spring which had been coiled up for centuries and my eyes bulged as if a Burmese python was squeezing the last breath out of my lungs. My muscles tensed like a rabid alley cat spotting a juicy mouse after not eating for a week! That slap of Brut - super cool and green fresh – as clean as a cypress 2x4 to the face - gave me the power of Popeye after eating a super-sized can of spinach. Chuck saw it all happen, probably in slow motion - and i saw him turn white as a ghost – and Chuck was pretty darn white to begin with! The smell emanated off me like mustard gas on the WWI front. Chuck began to convulse and seemed like he could barley breathe. The bell rang and I made an Oyama bull decking fist. That was the last straw. I cocked my hand back and was just about to throw the punch. Then suddenly out of nowhere Chuck said “STOP!!!” and pointed into the crowd. It was Carol, making out with my corner man who had splashed himself with with the magic potion known to all as the 'Chick Magnet' aka 'Lady Collector' aka 'Green Love Juice' ... aka ... BRUT! Me and Chuck just looked at each other because we knew we couldn't compete with what he had. We shook hands and called it a draw - we both lost equally! Don't know what happened to Carol. All i know is that the BRUT ain't someone anyone should take lightly. When the BRUT is in the room, make sure your lady is out of smelling distance, or you'll be leaving with someone like Chuck instead of her!!!

- 1983 on a given sunday... This was for me the first contact moment with the world of scents i had as a 5 year old boy back in 1983. I was playing around in my parents bedroom on a boring sunday... There was a cabinet with scents and talc powder and i shuffled around in in it...I was attracted by the biggest green, metallic bottle with medaillion, it was BRUT!....I unscrewed the cap and sniffed the plastic splash top....WOW what a burst of Scent molecules drove through my little nose that moment!...it felt bombastic and special! 30 years later (exactly) i bought my first REAL version again... -2013 -Today Review time! I just got Brut EDC and splash in plastic bottles, Brut Oceans Edt and Brut Black for 30 bucks! im so happy i did the purchase! First the 2 green plastic bottles, splash on and EDC The splash is very watered down and almost not detecable when splashed on your body but thats my opinion. But what i do like is the scent of BRUT! its creamy,green & balmy kinda ambery in the drydown its almost a dreamy scent! To me this is very mellow and laidback in any way, i also detect some hidden nostalgia and scent rememberance when i get some whiffs from my arms when im wearing it. Everybody thinks this is a harsh old skool skanky scent! But its not! the scent lingers around like a fresh groomed hippie couple, im sure its been around in these hippie days on festivals. Well my attention is there for BRUT! Im now searching for the EDT 3.4 oz version this is the glass square bottle with white /yellow juice which is shwown as picture for this scent and for as i know the only EDT version of the original version? I hope its alright. And im looking for the classic long green bottle of 88 ml EdC (3 oz) version To get the best classic / vintage experience. Brut classic/original is so versatile and lovable and im gonna wear this big time this upcoming vacation. (splash n stay fresh all day) -- Brut Oceans Edt is very good too! it has a quality of freshness mixed up with a strange but good vibe i guess its but im not sure its base is the same of Brut Classic. Its only bad in longevity thats a pity. -- Brut Black is new?? Its a strange scent very modern but lacks the power and strange ambery quality of the original but i need to apply it more to give a good review. Im curious about the notes in Black and hop it will be added to the Fragrantica database soon so i can post my review.