Musk Oud

Note: Fragrantica lists artemisia in the mid notes, but Kilian themselves indicate davana, which smells more like wine/grapes, and not at all like the "traditional" artemisia, which is wormwood. Davana does come from a species of artemisia (but not the same species as wormwood) and I think that causes the mix up (Fragrantica often lists davana as artemisia), but they are not the same thing! One more thing to note: Kilian himself has mentioned on twitter and elsewhere that this scent contains a fair dose of both civettone (civet) and muscenone and muscone. Just an FYI for those who pick up animalic and or fecal notes in this, that is why! Onto the review! Well... this is definitely one of those times when you sample something with knowledge of the general consensus, and afterwards are left raising your eyebrows in bewilderment of said consensus. I find this to be absolutely gorgeous from top to bottom, which is saying a lot as I've never fallen for a Kilian scent before and find some from the house to be downright poor. The top of Musk Oud is a very alive, very rich citrus that is immediately flanked by the rose and grape and wine nuances from the davana. The cardamom is present too, and smooth, and this alongside the never forward and yet quite long lasting coriander seed note work as a wonderful spice offset. In color and hue, this is quite akin to the opening of XXV - dark berries and coriander/bay/clove in XXV, grape/dark berries/coriander in MO, and both share rose, as well. Their weight and feel are drastically different though, with MO being light on its feet, a dark and diaphonous silken purple scarf with golden orange flecks, while XXV is more heavier and regal both out of the gate and throughout its development. All of that being said, this is seriously one of the most amazing openings that I've ever smelled. I compared it to the openings of some similar scents: XXV, Harrods oud Patchouli, and even Fate Man (not that similar) and it makes them seem clunky and pedestrian in comparison. Its balance is perfect and all of the notes are alive; nothing flat or out of place. Unlike most, I find this scent neither simple, linear, or weak in projection or longevity. An hour in and the heart becomes a deeper rose/geranium, and just as the coriander fades out, a subtle lemony frankincense note starts to rise up in the background. Perfect linkage of two notes throughout the evolution of the frag. The oud is slightly smoky, and the musk is becoming more dominant. Yes, it's an animalic musk, of the animal hair variety. The rum and davana are still present and the oud deepens this accord, adding to the purple hues shades of black. This accord of rose, davana and rum, and smoky incense and oud slowly crescendos and then decrescendos into the deep base, joined by a subtle patchouli and just the faintest whisps of airy vanilla (likely, actually, hints of some sweet musk). Deep but never heavy or overly dense, with the impeccable balance of Kilian's Incense Oud but striking out in a much bolder direction (my one criticism of IO and what leads it to not being FBW imo is how safe it plays it in all regards). In some ways, it calls to mind an oudy take on Ungaro II. Musk Oud is not exactly fecal but it is feral, and the deep purple hues alongside the orange/golden notes, coupled with some similarity in the patchouli/vanilla of the bases and the seamless transitions really does put it in the UII category, in my mind at least. I have a feeling that some people who've reviewed it are anosmic to the musks, or are suffering olfactory fatigue (eg: Kafkaesque's review mentions picking up the animalic hair note briefly, and then it vanishing for the rest of the scent), and this will change their perception of the scent drastically. Just two sprays on my chest are projecting strong many hours later, and the few swipes I put on my arm about 16 hours ago - with a shower in between - can still be smelled if sniffed close. Subtle patchouli and frankincense smoke. Gorgeous stuff.

I am of the opinion that the very best fragrances are almost entirely visceral. They don't have to evoke images in your mind's eye, trigger memories, or transport you to some otherworldly place. Instead, it's a sense of certainty, your subconscious telling you that what you're smelling doesn't just feel right but IS right. The what, how and why are irrelevant. Musk Oud falls into this category. The first time I sniffed it I got all hot under the collar. Steamy, sultry, dangerous, voracious. There was no thought given to further sampling or cost. I bought a bottle there and then - I was compelled to. And it's had me in raptures ever since. It is so well put together, no note overwhelming nor superfluous, at once harmonious and distinctive. To wit: Musk that growls but without the need to bare teeth; oud that straddles the line between bold and restrained; rose and cardamom, which form a lovely spice duo; geranium gives a touch of freshness, cypress a hit of pungency; the rum mildly sweet; and the incense a haze of wispy smoke. And then there's the lemon, such a clever inclusion because it helps to cut through the heaviness of the composition - and thereby making it wearable beyond the winter months - as well as tempering the more forceful notes (such as the cypress and musk). An absolute triumph.

ZESTY, FRESH,WOODY and ENERGIZING Rose, Oud and patchuli , a fresh , super aromatic rose on a bed of patchouli, some rum and lemon and some musk. This perfume has a musky skin scent type its fresh ,aromatic and sour , its zesty and energizing. Starts very fresh and fruity, like a sour lemon or grapes, with a tinge of rose and rum but soon warmer with musk. It doesn't smell as much of a place or thing as it does of a FEELING. If that makes any sense. Some musky ones do that, it rather just evokes a feeling than smelling like a flower or a fruit. But if some image needs to be present to imagine the smell , I would say ,,,, Its like walking through the woods after a hefty rainfall, smells of fresh wet woods, rose and rum and citrus. Its fresh spicy and tart, absolutely wonderful !!! This bottle is 400 $ , but you can go with the purse spray bottle that comes with refills and it becomes more affordable. I am considering a purchase ! I bought the gold heavy 30 ml purse spray, its amazing as it comes with 3 extra vials , one is already In the gorgeous atomizer. Easy to put in purse or great for the bathroom, in its metal case it's nicely protected from sunlight and can be stored even in bright places. Presentation 10/10 Smell 10/10

I agree with Germany on so many accounts but especially about the feeling part. Musk Oud is that kind of fragrance for me. I get more of an overall feeling from it instead of notes or images. The notes are all in equal parts and blended in such a way that I do not smell any individually unless I desperately search for it. They join together to create a whole. I get a tart, aromatic scent that dances between energetic and calming, clean and earthy, feminine and masculine. It is a chameleon of a fragrance and it smells different every time I wear it. It seems to blossom differently depending on my mood and my mind. Some days I get rose others I get none at all. Some days it feels clean and fresh and others it is very earthy, woody and musky. Musk Oud is something you wear for your own pleasure, not for others. It hangs close to the skin and wafts in and out all day. Just when you think it is gone it appears again. Musk Oud is a very pleasurable fragrance for me and has that craving factor to it. Almost kind of mouth watering the way you crave something tart. Since I got a bottle I can't go more than a few days without desiring it again. Those are the fragrances I truly love.

Kilian wasn't a house I was really that interested in, I think because I had seen some of their fragrances in Sephora, and the ones they had I wasn't super impressed by. I went to Saks just to see what they had and started smelling away. The two that stood out to me was this one and A Kiss From A Rose, and when I looked it up later I saw they were both created by the same perfumer. I unexpectedly fell in love with this one as I tend to shy away from oud fragrances. But the oud in this is airy and blends so well with the other notes. I love the boozy note in here, and the rose smells like dried crushed rose petals. I can detect a squeeze of lemon in the opening. This fragrance is so aromatic. Perfectly unisex. You could get away with wearing this on summer nights as it has an airiness to it and isn't insanely dense. Longevity and projection is moderate. I would definitely recommend this as an intro to oud fragrances.