Pour Un Homme de Caron

As I get older and learn more about perfumery, I find myself increasingly interested in scents with a bit of historical significance. Pour Un Homme De Caron, which dates from 1934, is one that I picked up back in August on a blind buy recommendation from someone I trust and there was this flash of recognition when I got my nose on it. Do you ever get that? When you try a fragrance and realise it isn't the first time you and the fragrance have crossed paths, in this life or ones that have gone before? For those who do not know, PUHDC is a lavender fragrance. Arguably, it is THE lavender reference in men's perfumery. You have a citrus top to this with the lavender there right on the first, but as the citrus dies off it changes on your skin in this gorgeous way. I've come to realise that I enjoy lavender, but I also enjoy fragrances that arent linear and that move and twist on the skin. PUHDC is a wonderful example. This is the sort of fragrance that makes me feel a bit sorry for the Aventus bros, the Sauvage lads, etc. You don’t know about this and it is to your detriment. PUHDC is such a well presented, refined scent. As the citrus dies off the heart notes roll out of the shadows and do a different dance with the tiny pink flowers. There are several accords in the heart here but they are are there to push the lavender into more prominence front and centre rather than dominate themselves. The effect is quite spellbinding. Under the spotlight on stage the lavender goes almost minty, or rather the minty textures and tinges in the lavender come to the fore with the pepper, spices and especially the clary sage which adds this herbaceous robustness to it. The third act in this Parisian show is the way the lavender shimmers and shifts again as the vanilla and tonka bean take this sweeter and richer. It never goes truly powdery but starts to glance longingly in that direction. I don't get much amber in the base but it is there to stop the base woods from going bitter and unbecoming. From the citrus to the spice to the sweetness this is a masterclass in old school French style perfumery. I mean that in the way things are blended to change the character of an accord, not change the accord. It is assured, charismatic and impossibly refined in that idealistic, Panglossian way that French perfumery does so well. It is very much a product of its time. Sillage is unrelentingly polite and "beast mode" performance didnt exist when this was created. It is just so damnably classy. The (absolutely superb) Sport flanker of this original is a fresher more overtly minty (and possibly more contemporary) take and I own that one, as well as both the Nuit and Soir flankers as well. The Parfum will be joining the collection as soon as I find it for a sensible price. I adore Caron as a house and I can see more of their gorgeous fragrances in my future as clearly as I can see PUHDC in my past. Perhaps I wore this in a past life? I can absolutely imagine myself in a previous iteration, a Naval commander at the Admiralty in London in the late 30s having had a long career at sea on destroyers and then battlecruisers after that, including on the Barham at Jutland, with the characteristic beard, intense eyes, laconic and expressive manner and a love of London in the springtime. I walk with purpose and never rush, not even for the Tube. At home in my bathroom every morning I'd choose between Town & Country by Clive Christian (given to me by a friend who works at their concession in Liberty in London), a dusty but well-loved bottle of 34 Old Broad Street by Atkinson's, and a bottle of PDHDC which I picked up on a visit to the French Naval Attache in Paris in 1935. I also have a bottle of Acqua di Parma Colonia which was given to me by a foppish but immaculate Italian Baron at the Spithead Naval Review in 1932 on board HMS Warspite, but that one is for weekends and "runs ashore" only. Careful never to overspray or wear on ship visits, the scent sits close to the skin and should never be ostentatious. It mixes with the smell of Imperial Leather soap, the Brylcreem in my hair, my clove beard oil and the smell of pipe tobacco on my fingers. These are gentlemen's fragrances for gentlemen. And so snapping back to 2026 I find myself my modern day equivalent. A laconic, bearded shipping guy who is now shore-based, who people look to for leadership and decisions in an uncertain and warlike geopolitical situation. I’m a seaman yes, but one for whom refinement is important. But the smells are the same. There is a lot to be said for that isn't there? Three Word Summary - THE Lavender Masterclass Scent - 9/10 Drydown - 9/10 Sillage - 7/10 Bottle/packaging - 8/10 Performance - 7/10 40/50

Pour un Homme is a very interesting aromatic barbershop scent, but to fully understand why requires knowledge of the history of modern perfumery and how it has responded to cultural trends over the decades. PuH was released in 1934, and at that time the 'cultural requirements' for a men's scent was vastly different from what is standard in today's men's scents (which are mainly woods and ambers, and poor synthetic ones at that). These early barbershop scents were meant for... well... to splash on a man after his visit to a barbershop! Barbershops used to do everything: you would bathe yourself there, get a shave, haircut, dental work, etc., and walk out a brand new and squeaky-clean man. The perfumes needed to reflect this intention. Lavender has always been a favorite of this family of perfumes because it is a multi-faceted accord capable of being pushed in many directions, but always, always, smells clean and redolent of the well-cared-for person. Lavender is the star of Pour un Homme. The opening notes set the stage: a very green, bitter, and mildly sour bergamot note is juxtaposed to a natural and sweet lavender, both of which fade very quickly. The starring lavender accord is then brought forward by a genius blend of herbs, rose, and wood notes. It smells like lavender - I thought it was lavender for several minutes - but very close study reveals that, no, it isn't actually lavender. Ernest Daltroff undoubtedly struggled to make the natural lavender material used in the opening last throughout the life of the fragrance, so he constructed lavender using other materials instead. This sounds like a no-brainer, and certainly something every modern perfumer does, but in 1934 this execution of lavender was incredible - and even by today's standards (or especially by today's standards for the pessimist), the execution is still exemplary. Daltroff did not stop there, and to steer the lavender accord in a direction that we, today's perfume enthusiasts, are not used to, he adds a sweet vanilla. The sweetness is not a thick, syrupy, fake, cloying type sweetness, but rather a sugar-like sweetness. Thick of the smell of fresh brown sugar, which smells so much better than, say, cocktail syrup, and that's what this is like. The vanilla mixed in with this sugar is velvety smooth, supple, and airy, like you're smelling the best vanilla extract on the professional baker's market. More magic awaits when you reapply Pour un Homme, which you can do; despite the excellent longevity for an EdT, Pour un Homme doesn't have massive projection or sillage, so you can reapply it if you want without destroying yours or anyone else's noses. When you do, which I did, and overlay those top notes of natural lavender and bergamot over the already living and breathing heart and base notes... holy cow. It's mesmerizing. It's as if you are suddenly able to smell lavender in 4D for the first time. Not 3D! - 3D is too simple of a way to describe this, little alone 2D. You feel like you've just taken a mild hallucinogen. You will never think of lavender the same way again, nor will you want to. This perfume won't be for everyone: you have to love lavender, you have to like vanilla, and you have to like sugar (or at least be good with it); it is powdery and gentle, and certainly doesn't yell with the masculine energy some wearers will want out of their masculine perfume (eye roll). But if these notes and characteristics are of the type that speaks to you and works for you, you need to try this legend of a perfume.

Beautiful and quite timeless. The lavender's freshness and subtle sweetness blends well with this vanilla. It's not a creamy or gourmand vanilla, but rather like a raw ingredient. Together they give a pleasant cooling effect that the blueish-green bottle reflects well. The silver lid is also a very fitting cool colour, as gold tones would have too much warmth for what this scent. I find that vanilla rarely works outside of a gourmand fragrance - like Habit Rouge's tart lemon having a bitter and sour effect once mixed with the vanilla, or Jaïpur Homme being too much of a powdered candy scent to my nose. But in this case, the vanilla is a great compliment to the classic gentleman's lavender scent. The dry drown is a pleasant journey as you can smell it "warming up" from the cool metallic lavender to a warmer familiar hum of the fresh vanilla, all while staying under a refreshing profile. In the summer it's inviting and care-free, while in the winter it comes off as mysterious and calm. It's a composition from 90 years ago, but still feels modern and unique. I think this would best suit a classy guy looking for a casual everyday scent that isn't loud or pretentious, or minimalists into the "clean living" aesthetic and trends. I doubt this is a very clean formula, but it has that linear simplicity that feels more honest. Or even for women who want a bold-yet-gentle masculine edge to their fragrance. This is definitely signature-worthy for the right person. Also, I enjoy the coincidence that this and my other favourite (Dunhill for Men, a great nutmeg and leather scent) were both released in 1934. I'm not much of a historian, but to me the art deco design of the bottle almost suggests a reflection of the cold realities in the 1930s, a clear and no-nonsense look at that time. Whereas the Dunhill feels warm and cozy, almost like it is aiming to be positive and reassuring during a difficult moment. I was told that one is a very comforting scent on me, and I feel that was probably the intention for it too. I was fortunate to be able to buy a full bottle locally (after trying a sample vial first), as they are not readily available in Canada and can get very expensive to import. If you're able to find a sample size then I would recommend trying that before deciding to blind buy any of the pricier bottles. Update: I definitely lucked out and just found an unopened 1960s bottle in my local thrift shop! I can say being sealed in the dark box all these years, it still has the bright and earthy lavender scent still present. I'll have to try it out some more, but so far it smells quite similar to the current formula - just a little richer and almost more "pure" for some of the aspects. Maybe from the age of the blended ingredients having time to mull in a bottle, or perhaps the quality of what was used in the past? I'll have to write an update once I try them both out more. 🤩 Even though the newer formula seems to be more mild, I would say that actually benefits it to today's taste. Not that the older one is dated, but lavender and vanilla together can be off putting to some people, so I imagine having a more gentle version would be more appealing to those you pass by.

Something from another era - and it smells like it. This is, as another reviewer put it, more of a scent than a fragrance. Sharp lavender, musk and vanilla are the three components everyone focuses on, but there are a few more overtones (and undertones) in Caron Pour Un Homme. "Minimalism is beauty in its simplest form"...this holds true with this bottle of magical aromas. I find current formulation to be very refreshing if applied liberally or reapplied within 10-15 minutes of 1st application (layering increases the scent's projection and longevity). The key is to spray very close to the skin (about 1") to 'stack the scent'. In current formulation, this allows the lavender to show its beauty and articulate its duality in the scent (leaf and floral). The effect is interesting - the vanilla is more potent in current formulation and the close application provides better longevity and true form of scent. Otherwise, I find that the notes separate and the richness of the composition is not nearly as well-presented. The vanilla dominates in current juice. Vintage formulation has more musk and sharp lavender (and overall less vanilla, although it is still an amazing drydown to a vanilla/musk & warm amber on the skin). My preferred method of applying this lush, comforting scent is to pour a generous amount into my cupped palm from my 750ml giant flacon and splash it on my neck, chest and arms. The "playdoh" effect is minimalized and the lavender presents itself more. Plus, it is a celebration of the classique methode of application for this timeless piece of olfactive art. Each and every wearing, I am immediately reminded that this is classic perfumery...undeniably and indisputably (regardless of formulation). It is the showcase of a gorgeous lavender soliflore, as it has both the sharp, herbal aspect of lavender leaf along with the soft and fragrant floral accord of the same stem. The vanilla picks up the floral quality of the lavender, which is soothing and has light sweetness...while the musk carries the herbal feeling of the lavender, creating balance and brilliant harmony in this divine composition and not allowing this great scent to be cloying. The longevity is not great but definitely adequate and above average (as it dries down and stays on your skin). You get a very nice fresh lavender aroma that intermingles with the warm vanilla/musk base for about 3-4 hours on my skin with decent projection. After that, it dries down a nice, radiant skin scent and lasts for another 4+ hours. A true classic...a gentleman's scent from 1934 on the shelf today in my wardrobe. Caron, as a house, is simply top-shelf. A very non-mainstream line of fragrances (many unisex) that transcend time and olfactory notes that are atypically together or compositions that are tastefully unique. I will not get into all the other Caron fragrances I know, have and love. This is about a timeless scent - Caron Pour Un Homme. One should have this in their fragrance collection. It will be around, most likely, forever...and generations should pass this on. My rating is not in points - but in a thankful and gracious nod to Caron for keeping this great bottle around all these years. Merci!

After some time, being able to go back and analyze this classic that goes by the name of Caron Pour Un Homme is to move with feelings that were silent and almost asleep, in order to evoke a whirlwind of sensations that walk between pleasure, longing, affection. , the complicity and memory of a past that soon becomes present when we remember the existence of this fragrance. Before wanting a Caron Pour Un Homme to call my own, a special someone who lives in the Germanic lands, who I love with the strength of my soul, through one of our extensive personal conversations narrated the excellence of what Lavender is in this classic, in order to provoke in me a passion for him without me even having smelled him some day in this life. I confess that at first I worried about wanting him, but a series of factors at the time prevented me from making this immediate contact, from then on, I was overcome by bureaucracy and I "accommodated" with the current situation. O most beautiful and virile Lavender, when will I be able to meet you or even have the chance to call you mine, huh?! Time passes and someone very dear brings me a Bond N°9 from outside and before handing it to me, he makes a pack with "infinite" samples and decants which I would never have imagined that in the middle would come the so famous Lavender + Vanilla + Musk I've dreamed of meeting one day! I confess that everything I dreamed of about this perfume I could experience on the skin when I used it for the first time, but it still managed to be a little better, in terms of performance throughout the day. An amalgamation of emotion, love, virility, seriousness, affection, fulfillment and self-affirmation filled me when that tender green liquid was next to me. A waking daydream, a brutally rational chimera! After a few years of our beautiful experience, behold, I receive a new gift at the door of my residence, and this gift came configured as a cube (only the strong understand), and within this "cube" Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron once again smiles at me, only now in a big bottle and asking me to call him MINE! :'( Nothing, no words that I dare try to narrate here will be able to describe the singular sensation I felt when I received you that day. There is a whole story, loves, favors, complicity, the Other who does good, the "stranger", the disappearance, the punishment, the encouragement and also the loneliness, behind the aromatic explosion of this fragrance, which only being Jê feel and know the pains and pleasures of what he represents to me. Lavender that explodes and permanently brings peace in the form of a serious, clean, well-dressed man, in season and out of season. Vanilla in the shape of a bean that, while revealing its sweetness, is balanced by a resinous nuance. Musk to its sensual style without being vulgar, which prolongs the aromatic sensation of the other notes, also giving them a comforting softness and in a propulsive way. I can no longer live without Caron Pour Un Homme, I need to somehow guarantee its permanence for posterity, yes I do.