Les Heures de Cartier: L'Heure Fougueuse IV

EN There are fragrances that are simply pleasant to wear. And then there are those that immediately make it clear: this is not just another beautiful composition, but a true perfumery masterpiece. L’Heure Fougueuse IV is exactly that kind of fragrance. It is one of those Cartier creations where luxury does not shout, does not flaunt the logo, and does not try to please everyone. It speaks with confidence and nobility. It has a rare combination of freshness, dry green energy, soft leathery depth, and an almost tactile elegance. From the very first moments, there is a vivid aromatic impulse: mate, the citrus transparency of bergamot, and a light spicy dryness. Then the composition opens much deeper — leather appears, but not in a heavy or rough way. It is refined, expensive, like a soft glove or an old leather-bound book. Magnolia brings light, air, and a noble floral softness, without turning the fragrance into a banal floral story. Vetiver holds the whole structure in perfect balance: dry, green, slightly earthy, very elegant. Musk in the base makes the fragrance soft, clean, and surprisingly wearable. What is especially fascinating is that L’Heure Fougueuse IV does not feel like a fragrance made “for effect”. It does not try to overwhelm people with the luxury of its ingredients. And yet it has presence, longevity, sillage, and a very recognizable aura. This is the scent of a person who does not need to prove anything. He simply is — and that is already enough. For me, the Les Heures de Cartier line has become one of the most interesting in niche perfumery. I now own 6 fragrances from this line, and in addition to them, 7 other Cartier fragrances. And the more I discover Cartier as a perfume house, the more convinced I become that this is not merely a jewelry brand that “also makes perfumes”. Cartier has its own perfumery language — refined, intellectual, quietly luxurious, and truly French. L’Heure Fougueuse IV is one of the best examples of this aesthetic. It is not mainstream, not banal, and not designed for cheap instant excitement. It is a fragrance that unfolds gradually and becomes more interesting with every wear. For me, it is undoubtedly one of the most captivating Cartier fragrances in my collection: fresh, leathery, green, elegant, distinguished, and absolutely coherent. A true fragrance with a true character. ⸻ IT Ci sono profumi che sono semplicemente piacevoli da indossare. E poi ci sono quelli che fanno capire subito una cosa: non si ha davanti l’ennesima bella composizione, ma un vero capolavoro della profumeria. L’Heure Fougueuse IV appartiene esattamente a questa categoria. È uno di quei profumi Cartier in cui il lusso non grida, non ostenta il logo e non cerca di piacere a tutti. Parla con sicurezza e nobiltà. Dentro ha una combinazione rara di freschezza, energia verde e asciutta, morbida profondità cuoiata e un’eleganza quasi tattile. Fin dai primi istanti si percepisce un impulso aromatico vivo: mate, la trasparenza agrumata del bergamotto, una leggera secchezza speziata. Poi la composizione si apre in modo molto più profondo: emerge il cuoio, ma non pesante né ruvido. È un cuoio sottile, costoso, come un guanto morbido o una vecchia copertina rilegata in pelle. La magnolia aggiunge luce, aria e una morbidezza floreale nobile, senza trasformare il profumo in una banale storia floreale. Il vetiver tiene tutta la struttura in perfetto equilibrio: asciutto, verde, leggermente terroso, molto elegante. Il muschio nella base rende il profumo morbido, pulito e sorprendentemente indossabile. Ciò che affascina particolarmente è che L’Heure Fougueuse IV non sembra un profumo creato “per fare effetto”. Non cerca di stordire chi lo percepisce con il lusso degli ingredienti. Eppure ha presenza, durata, scia e un’aura molto riconoscibile. È il profumo di una persona che non ha bisogno di dimostrare nulla. Esiste, semplicemente — e questo basta già. Per me, la linea Les Heures de Cartier è diventata una delle più interessanti nella profumeria di nicchia. Attualmente possiedo 6 profumi di questa linea, oltre ad altri 7 profumi Cartier. E più conosco Cartier come maison profumiera, più mi convinco che non si tratti semplicemente di un marchio di gioielleria che “fa anche profumi”. Cartier possiede un proprio linguaggio olfattivo: raffinato, intellettuale, lussuosamente discreto e profondamente francese. L’Heure Fougueuse IV è uno dei migliori esempi di questa estetica. Non è un profumo di massa, non è banale, non è pensato per un entusiasmo immediato e superficiale. È un profumo che si svela gradualmente e diventa sempre più interessante a ogni utilizzo. Per me è senza dubbio uno dei Cartier più affascinanti della mia collezione: fresco, cuoiato, verde, elegante, di razza e assolutamente coerente. Un vero profumo con un vero carattere.

This smells amazing, atmospheric, impressionistic, and yet I find it fresh and wearable. It's definitely the sunny, sober, daytime relative of the smoky Treizieme Heure, but also its own beast entirely. The opening is all bright citrus and light white florals (sure--magnolia...it brings to mind Jasmine and White Moss, Ormonde Jayne Tiare, and other light, linalool-rich green/white florals), but it segues beautifully into this sage-green colored tea note and moss--not that I smell sage, but it synesthetically conjures that color. The leather and horsiness is always present but in the background. This would pair beautifully with a walk in a pastoral setting. I do wonder if the sillage would read as just a refreshing tea-like thing at a distance or if people would glance twice and wonder who rolled in the hay. At one point, it was on sale for an unmissable deal on Fragrancenet (I guess they discontinued the original packaging/bottle?). Edited to add: this has absolutely become a casual "easy reach" staple. For something that smells quite unique, it is infinitely easy to wear. Perhaps now that the BR DNA of veramoss, hedione, ethyl maltol, and ambroxan is now so ubiquitous, this feels like a lovely pastoral fragment of that--the hedione and veramoss in particular.

Patty's review over at Perfume Posse described L'Heure Fouguese as smelling like "tea perfume paired with horse," and I think she has it exactly right. Anyone who has ever been in a stable will remember the smells of hay, leather, and, yes, horse, that combine to make an absolutely unique olfactory experience. Unique, but uncannily emulated by L'HF. The tea note in L'HF smells like clean new hay, while the leather note opens up smelling like the warm, dusty, dry skin of a horse. As the leather deepens it smells more like the tack room, saddles and bridles and boots. The dry down loses a lot of the tea/hay barn mustines and becomes more of a conventionally salty leather, albeit a very nicely done leather. Both excellent in its own right and worth smelling as a reminder of the power of scent to whisk away the daily grind and take you to another time and place.

Just when I think one note rules the rest I'm forced to re-smell it and no. Maybe I have to give it a bit more wearings, under different environments. But one thing I can say is the scent of sandalwood haunts me in the late dry down. Does anyone else get that?? Also, this is so unique that one would have to be confident in his/her (unisex/male leaning, imo) olfactory tastes in order to confidently wear this. Or else you'll just walk around trying to decipher the subtle cues of other people; wondering how they're receiving you. Lol. In my case, this smells so unbelievably good, to me, that I could care less if someone didn't like it. It really brings me joy and comfort applying this. My two cents. Until next time...

This is nice and like a fresh, different breeze from the routine oud, oriental fragrances that I use usually. Mate is strong, bit herbal and the florals play a supporting role. Is that mild sweetness from liquorice? And theres some beautiful barn/ hay thats definitely different and tamed than whats found in Indian oud. Its a masterful blend of all the above notes. I get sort of herbal leather in the end. Imagine a leather sofa with some green grassy, a bit damp herbs placed on it. Slightly animalic becoz of muscone I guess. I like the artistry behind this but would I buy a full retail bottle? Nopes becoz of the price. But maybe will lookout for a real good deal on ebay. Right now happy with my 3.5 ml sample. Try it

Thanks to great Mathilde Laurent, Cartier's fragrances are always of great quality. This line (Les Heures de Cartier) is a rare treasure, all of which are experimental, but seemingly get much less attention than it deserves. IV is such a classic chypre. It opens with light green bergamot but more about its fresh peel than its sourness. Then gradually handovers to Maté. The bitterness of the tea can be noticed with some decoration of lavender. Maté is then led to leather (those fine leatherware) with the mediation of vetiver. Based on my 3.5ml dabber, it can last over 6 hrs with moderate sillage. Another masterpiece from the line should be added to the artwork collection. Respect to Mathilde Laurent!

The vetiver hour would have been my favorite L’Heure if it wasn’t for the chemical one (which is simply the greatest release in recent memory) IV is a time traveler. Back in my childhood summers I would help my grandfather in picking up lucerne, storing hay, taking care of the animals....The first time I sprayed IV it transported me back to those wonderful times. It was so vivid a reaction that I clearly saw and smelled my younger summer me. I was 15 again. Thank you, Mathilde, for this magic. I love you. *****

The bergamot and magnolia are beautiful in this and really lift and balance the tea and hay notes in this sophisticated earthy green composition. It's rather brilliant juxtaposition. The accord is very distinct, very soft and sophisticated, very sure of itself. It's a long lasting perfume and an extremely attractive scent. For leather lovers, hay lovers, chypre lovers.

Nicely balanced fresh summer scent with a dusty green, dried hay-like accord. Elegant, interesting, and easy to wear. Lasts all day and has a nice scent bubble.

One of the most classy and elegant chypres I've ever come across! 10/10!

The clean hay fragrance of my dreams - nothing else comes close.

I found a little coffret containing three miniature « Les Heures » on eBay - IV, VII and VIII. L'Heure Fougueuse IV is my first. I am a big fan of Mathilde Laurent's work ever since I fell in love with Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune (and to a lesser extent, Herba Fresca). As in-house perfumer of Cartier, her work has been prolific, yet I haven't had the chance to smell any of her creations there until now (Cartier perfumes are not readily available to test here in Ireland). IV seemingly is inspired by horses, « fougueuse » translating roughly as "spirited", used to describe a horse. And IV succeeds in conveying that image. I love this kind of creativity in perfumery. IV opens with tart, fresh bergamot, bolstered by the grassy tea note. This accord smells just like hay in a stable, given some prettiness by some bright florals. It is somehow bracing, and really brings to mind that horsy, countryside smell - earthy and grassy, while the bergamot and floral notes illustrate the surrounding flora and fresh air. Lavender features quite prominently as it develops, giving IV an aromatic edge. The leather note is inspired - bringing to mind saddles and tack, in complete keeping with the equestrian theme. The drydown rounds out this wonderful chypre - mossy, earthy goodness. Vetiver amps up the grassy, haylike accord, complemented perfectly by the mossy notes. It fades to a mossy, leathery accord after several hours, becoming a musky skin scent eventually. Sillage and longevity are moderate. This is unisex to my nose, ideal for a spring day out in the country, horses optional. While I appreciate the creativity and execution of IV, I'm not sure I would wear this (but am glad to have it because it's a joy to smell. I feel similarly about Dzing!.) Given the theme (and high quality), it would suit the equestrian heritage of Hermès perfectly. Still, Cartier is lucky to have Mme Laurent. 4/5.

This is a calming fragrance. It makes me feel like drinking a cup of tea outdoors in the garden where it has rained recently. There is a gentle breeze, and the heat of summer is drifting away. Autumn has arrived. It's late afternoon, and I'm tired. Cartier IV relaxes me by combining all the above. I sprayed this on one arm and Gucci Pour Homme II on the other. They both were in the same neighborhood as far as smell, and what everyone around me considered pleasing. However, 3 hours later, the Cartier is still dominated by the tea scent whereas the Gucci has turned sweet and cinnamon-like. They both wear very close to the skin. Both have poor sillage as well. I was looking for a tea-heavy fragrance. Since the Cartier retains the black tea note this long, I will pick this instead. I'm not too happy about the price though. $3.47/mL for the Cartier v. $0.76/mL for the Gucci. If your budget is tight, go with the Gucci.

Green and sour coexist, the bergamot melts into the sweet yerba mate fragrance, refreshing and refreshing. Lavender is definitely present, vetiver (hay), with very little musk, leather and a touch of narcissus, with a vaguely soapy cleanness. L’Heure Fouaueuse IV is a cool, rich, multi-edged black tea. It has been chilled, and some water is still not dry, and the smell is soft and translucent.

The top is fresh florals. The base is all ultra soapy/oily musks (the undisputable main player here), with a clean suede aromachemical, and possibly a bit of powdery/sweet patchouli (similar to the one in La Treizieme Heure XIII). This one gives me a (very vague) impression of the smell of an ultra clean horse stable in a 5-stars country club, when standing at the door. But again, it's very vague. Had I to decribe this one, I'd say it's a clean floral musk fragrance, giving an impression of tea in the late drydown. Performance is average. Goutal's Duel has a more accurate impression of mate imo, but Duel is overall a bit too simple and underperforming to deserve a spot in my collection. I had great hopes for L'HF IV, but I am afraid it's a blind buy gone wrong. No, it's not bad, just a bit dull, and also quite simple. Actually an accurate comparison would be Kiehl's Musk, not Goutal Duel. While L'Heure Fougueuse IV could be worn by a man without any issues, it is clear that the whole "Les Heures" line has been blended primarily with women in mind, and this one makes no exception. Will give it a few more wear, but I doubt my opinion will change a lot. You got it: I'm not a fan. Still, might a be a good choice for the right woman who wants to smell clean and boogie (more than elegant), but despite its name, don't expect anything fiery here. One condition though: getting a great deal, as the full retail price would just be a rip-off for that. Fall days, 30+

شماره 4 عطری به غایت زیبا و مردونه شیک ژانر عطر شیپغ معرفی شده ولی بنظر من چرمی هست. شماره 4 رو وقتی اسپری میکنید در شروع به یاد عطر محبوب راشن تی می افتید. همونطور بوی چای و چرم یا عطر محبوب گرین تی که حس چرمی و انیمالیک طور نداره انگار تو ی کلبه کوهستانی هستی کنارش اسطبل باشه و عطر و بوی چای دم کشیده فضای خونه رو پر کرده باشه. شماره 4 در شروع با حسی سیتروسی و فلورال باز میشه. بوی تند و تیز از ترکیب بوی پوست لیمو و لاوندر و رزماری که در کنارش واضحا بوی چرم انیمالیکی و عطر چای هم احساس میشه. تو قلب عطر حس سیتروسی کمرنگ میشه ولی بوی لاوندر و چاي و چرم کماکان به حضور دل انگیز خودشون ادامه ميدند سرتاسر بوی عطر بشکل عجیبی بویی طبیعت داره هیچ رد و نشانی از حس سنتتیک و مدرنیته تو عطر احساس نمیشه یرباماته یا چای ماته اسم یک نوشیدنی سنتی وگرم هست که مختص آمریکای جنوبی بوده که برگهای درخت ماته رو روی آتیش خشک می‌کنند و بصورت دمنوش مصرف می‌کنند عطری که این دمنوش داره حالتی سبز و قوی و شبیه به بوی چای سیلان و اسام هست تا حدودی. در کل عطری که تداعی میکنه بوی چای روی سماور هست که به خوبی عمل آوری شده و عطرش فضا رو پوشش داده درای داون عطر تقریبا یکساعت بعد از شروع با کمرنگ شدن بوی چرمی و انیمالیک و حس آروماتیک. رایحه چرب و قوی و خاکی از وتیور در کنار بوی سبز و قوی ماته و اوکموس تا ساعتها دلبرانه نقش آفرینی می‌کنند شماره 4 بشکل عجیبی زیبا و بسیار واقع گرا فرمول شده مادامی که بوی عطر رو پوست دستمه خودمو توی محیطی تصور کردم که تک تک این اجزا توشون هست کیفیت عطر بسیار بالاست. زیبا فرمول شده پخش بوی ملایم و ماندگاری 6ساعته بدون تخریب رایحه روی پوست میده

The most well-kept horse stable in an affluent equestrian town, L'Heure Fougeuse IV reminds me of a drive I made through the hamlet of Waccabuc, NY this past weekend. A rural suburb in Westchester County, there were sloping hills, palatial homes, the smell of fresh mown grass and hay filling the air. Each street sign is wooden, painted white, in a colonial shape, and the country club emanates insularity. Yet I found an affection for it, refusing to peel back the layers and just accepting it as it is. It was more the spaces in between, consisting of the trees and dells and the pastoral coolness. L'Heure Fougeuse IV captures this very pastoral coolness, fresh yet distant, a tea house nestled on a back road, lavender sachets, the smell of oiled saddles and wooden interiors, even of clean white linen. Underneath a soft suede layer, the pulse of musky warm skin and an accelerating heart beat of passion, tempered by a seal of decorum. A vetiver soon echoes the hay and grasses, and the countryside charm fades into twilight. This has easily become a favorite from Mathilde Laurent. Rest assured, one need not be a member of a country club to walk the nature trails of Waccabuc: all are welcome.

*Les Heures de Cartier: L`Heure Fougueuse IV by Cartier A fresh floral opening with something green of Mate herb. Vetiver appears not earthy but clean. This scent gives me a sensation of cleaning that no other can ever do. So unique. It evokes something carnal, smelling of clean sheets, white color, peace... The leather here is good and well blended with the animalic musc. Here this animalic accord is soft and very very very sensual, i promise. I can feel some oak moss too, making a charming and lovely dry. Well done, Mathilde! :)

This is really good, stunning even. A musky clean one in a very Cartier style, with a elegantly blended mate note. I was a little worried it might be too close to Goutal Duel but it's actually quite different. They share the mate note but go in different directions with it, this one clean and musky and the duel fresh and citrus. The leather note in this is like really clean skin, nothing skanky or leather bag. Beautiful. Yet another round of applause for Mathilde Laurent.

It's early spring,late morning, it's raining off and on. You hop on your dapple grey horse and have a ride wearing your grey suede jacket, chewing some minty gum . Afterward you put the horse in the barn and enjoy a cigar. A soapy shower next then erotic bedroom fun before a nap. Is it wednesday, i've forgotten what day it is? I'm resolved.