Must de Cartier

My mother wore this and so did my aunt, whom in my childhood imagination, embodied what a movie star must have been like in real life. (Imagine a loving and kind version of Joan Crawford... that was my aunt). I remember wishing to grow up in order to wear Must de Cartier. The first time I owned this magical elixir, it was a gift by a friend who gave me the 4ml parfum version. She knew I loved the scent, and God bless her heart, thought of me as sophisticated enough, as to be able to pull it off when I was 18 years old. Every time I wore it I felt a mixture between empowered and as though I were 4 years old wearing my mother's heels. Since then, either the EDT or the EDP (different formulations created by different perfumers) have been part of my wardrobe. There is as much of a difference between the vintage parfum and the vintage EDT, as there is between the vintage EDT and the reformulated version of the EDT. (All formulations, I currently own, and unabashedly hoard). The different formulations range from more ambery, spicier, more vanillic and smoother potions, to cooler/green, and then to less complex fragrances, with less longevity and a more pronounced indolic heart, as you go down the ladder from vintage parfum to vintage EDT to current EDT. I'm not thrilled with the indolic nature of the current formulation, but the dry-down is still beautiful and long lasting. However, I think it must be said: to Cartier's credit, the fragrance remains true to it's DNA, which is remarkable, when compared to many other classics that have either no resemblance to their former selves, or have entirely lost their soul. To me, this is first and foremost an amber, a very complex amber, and it is precisely that well rounded complexity that makes this fragrance, in my view, the most elegant of all the fragrances I have ever encountered. It surpasses Bond No.9 Amber, Amouage's Ubar and even Serge Luten's Ambre Sultan (my second favorite amber). Factor in favorable online prices, and even if the quality of Ubar and Ambre Sultan is better than Cartier's current formulation, Must de Cartier is the no contest winner for both: value and scent. It would be pointless for me to describe the scent, as many have done so eloquently already. If you're looking for a description, I recommend you read Sissi's from 2010 and Weegee's right below it. (Hover over the bottom right corner, you'll see the dates). I however, can offer you this: Ever since my first bottle, just the act of purchasing Must de Cartier, has made me feel empowered. I have now grown into this perfume and I wear it every time I start a new job, or I need to go to an important meeting, or when I meet a man I value and admire. It is my suit of armor, the scent that clings to my cashmere sweaters, my "I think I can / pick-me-up" when I'm feeling low, my invisible strand of pearls.

This is the review for new EDT, batch code check says it was made 2/2016 (clear glass, golden cap). I can not object to any reviewer who states that this, many times reformulated EDT is a shadow of the vintage EDT and that The Giant is fallen, because I have vintage and, in my oppinion, the regrets about the scent begone are in place. BUT, for all those who did not try the vintage, I have to say that - in a reasonable price range and outside of niche - this most recent EDT iteration of Must is still worth a try. Current EDT is still nobile, warm but green, sharp and velvety, aromatic, ambery-woody, slightly leathery and vanillic oriental. In today's context, Must is absolutely unisex, and fitted for today's etiquette of moderate silage. The heaviness of the 80-ies classic is gone, and thickness is transformed into into light but still substantial aura. So, if you compare this 2016 iteration of EDT to vintage, adjective "pale" comes to mind, BUT - if you are comparing it to whatever in today's high-end designers section - this EDT is perfectly ok. Must is cosy, elegant, warm, serious, particular, familiar, distinct, and - as time goes by - more modern, not-mainstream and niche-like than it was in the beginning of this millenium. Paradox? Maybe. But even if looks like a paradox, if you are in search for non-sweet / unisex oriental combo of woods-amber-leather-aromatic-vanilla with the fresh, green element, you will probably have to leave today's designer's market, overfloded with sweeties, fruitchoulies and other play-for-sure scented mediocrities, and either reach for vintage or reformulated classic, or go to niche. And then, chances are that, after you look around the niche, you wil eventually find that the grass is not always greener on the other side, but is almost always more expensive. Test Must before that. Test it, just because it is smart thing to do. For current EDT (2016) * like (love remains attached to vintage version only) * silage: moderate (arms lenght at first three hours, after that just a bit more than a skin scent). Current EDT is very far from being silage-bomb. There, it is perfectly ok for office and works beautifully as day-time unisex. The scent descretely marks personal space, but does not intrude other's. (Still, I wish that performance is better.) * longevity: moderate (up to 6 hours, but it needs very generous applying.) * time: For me - the true "golden autumn" fragrance. As last autumn, I'll start wearing it again when leaves start falling and days become short and rainy, but not really cold. Day. Night. Casual to formal.

This magnificent fragrance can be described in one word: PERFECT! MUST de CARTIER is a luxurious scent and one of the sexiest, sophisticated and original scents ever, this sure makes people heads turn. Rich, deep, heavy, oriental, complex, intoxicating, strong, timeless and a wonderfully sexy scent. The first time I tried this fragrance was in a department store when I was around 16. I just went around spraying loads of different perfumes on my arm and then left the shop and went somewhere else. Suddenly I could smell what was quite possibly the best perfume I had ever smelt coming from my left arm. Other people in the shops remarked on it as well but because I had sprayed a lot of different perfumes on at once, i couldn't remember what it was called. I was positive it was a Cartier, but I didn't know which one. About 4 years later, i decided to try and find it again, so i went to the Cartier section of the perfume shop and after determining that it was definitely not Pasha, picked this one up. I remembered the feel of the fluted glass bottle, so I was pretty positive that I had the right one, as no other Cartier fragrances (at that time) had fluted bottles. I sprayed this on my arm again and was instantly disappointed. It smelt sharp and off-putting, and nothing like the warm rich smell I remembered. Then, after about 2 hours, that amazing scent was back! I had been right after all! The opening was a bit loud and screechy but the dry down was to die for. i could live with that for the sake of that dry down. I bought a big bottle right away and would never be without one now. Also, and this is a bit weird, but the review below me remarked that this perfume smells like money. I agree, but i mean, literally, money. It smells a little like bank notes, as in that papery lineny, slightly metallic smell that they have. Although it's actually really lovely and not a dig at all! This one is probably my favourite fragrance ever. It is not a scent for the shy wallflower types, but the best for a assured, grown-up woman sure of her sensuality. MUST de CARTIER is an irresistible secret weapon just a small spray of this can ignite quite an evening. Longevity: 7-12 hours Sillage- Moderate to Heavy

Must De Cartier is a beautiful green vanilla, its by no means outdated to my nose either as it is still feels as contemporary and luxe now as it would have done in the 80s when it was released, granted, I cannot speak for reformulations as my bottle was made in May 2021, but still. The opening is a blast of green citruses and fizzy aldehydes, usually on me aldehydes skew soapy but in Must, they have an effervescent brightness which feels airy and bracing before settling down into a warm, slightly fruity floral laying on top of a bed of vanilla, slowly over the course of 2 hours this begins to subside which reveals a bitter green nuance from the galbanum. This green nuance reminds me a little bit of Chanel No 19 EdT but without the butteriness from the iris and earthy tones from the oakmoss, vanilla and rosewood are still prominent players at this stage on my skin. Must is both cold but still warm and enveloping at the same time, another 3 hours in and the green snap fades and I'm left with a soft ambery vanilla laced with rosewood and sandalwood which wears close to the skin on me and has an effortless air of elegance and sexiness at the same time. I actually think Must would work year round, but is better suited for day and evening wear during fall, winter and spring but for night wear during the warmer months and maybe with a lighter application purely because of how balmy and warm it dries down, but unlike other ambree/orientals I have worn, Must De Cartier never develops a bitter chemical twang on me even after wearing it all day like I have had before in the past with Obsession (of which I can see the similarities, but Must is more full, well rounded and easier to wear). Longevity so far has been excellent, we're at the 5hr mark and still going strong with a wafty skin scent silage. I hope this never gets discontinued, I will always have a bottle of Must in my collection from now on, pure pleasure in a bottle. Fun useless fact; it is referenced in an episode of Charmed that Prue Halliwell wears Must De Cartier

I first encountered Must de Cartier some time ago whilst perusing the Neiman-Marcus perfume counters and mustering the courage to visit the ladies' fragrances counter. I was finally willing to take a dip in the "lady pond" and the rest was history. I was struck by the vivid orange color of the juice and the decidedly not-so-current design of the bottle (come to find out this was the 2000s formulation and the fragrance had already been around for over twenty years). I remember one of my first thoughts was, "gee, if I like this and purchase it, obviously NOT here at Neiman-Marcus, the bottle looks like that of a masculine." This was clearly a number of years ago. I sniffed it and was immediately floored. This sharp green like the crack of the whip, layered over a vanilla and some fruit, whoa, I immediately fell in love. Thus started my love affair with the galbanum/vanilla contrast, which we would find in the original Calvin Klein Obsession, the Original Moschino, Krazy Krizia, among others (I have the and love the latter two, Obsession seems redundant at this point). I love the sweet fruit syrup rendered somewhat bitter and astringent through the galbanum. It reminds me a bit of biting into a not so ripe peach and chewing on citrus rinds. This settles into musty, dusty, dry florals with the vanillic amber and leathery undertones fading into the mix. The dry down is billowy, sensual, nuzzle-musky, with traces of green evident. I will always remember this (along with Hermes Caleche and Van Cleef & Arpels First) on that fateful day, as my jettisoning any care as to how fragrance is gendered, and I now think of how much beauty I would have missed if I constrained myself to male-marketed scents.

There are certain things in life that you don't understand. Ignoring this liquid jewel was one of them. I just can't believe why I never discovered Must in all theese years, specially beeing addicted to those heavy perfumes of the 80's. Let's get straight to the fragrance. The opening is a little bit "juicy" on me but in a very nice way. The pinneaple maybe? So this gives this european perfume a beautiful tropical note that for someone from a tropical country like me, is very familiar and pleasant. Later on I get the green note that balances the sweet pinneaple followed by the alluring and enchanting jazmine that makes it adorable. The base notes are a sexy and refined vanilla with perhaps some dark chocolate, shavings I would say that far from making it gourmand, give it a very intresting twist. All this is finished by a sexy yet subttle civet ( artificial but refined ) that makes the whole thing a perfectly sensual, classy and alluring perfume that makes you feel gorgeous. While there are fragrances that are female with no doubt ( despite what some people might say ), Must is perfectly unisex and feels divine on anyone. I must agree that Must has some shared notes with Obsession, but that is not a bad thing when you keep in mind that Must was the inspiration ( it is not stated anywhere but come on! ). But while Obsession feels a little bit vulgar, Must feels luxurious, chic and bewitching. Don't want to sound cheesy but for me Must is a must for anyone who loves those perfect 80's scents and specially when thinking that Must was the first oriental of that gorgeous era where most of the best perfumes were created.

I came to Must de Cartier purely by accident. After my Grandmother's passing, we found hidden away in a closet in her basement several paper bags filled with perfume testers that she had acquired from many years of working Fine Fragrance at Famous Barr in St. Louis, MO. It was found in a plain white box, the Parfum, and quite vintage. I was intrigued that I hadn't heard of it before. A quick spritz and I was blown away first by the richness of the Galbanum--so green and gritty. The resins were there from the beginning--frankincense dominating in the beginning fading over many, many hours into a lush labdanum note. The bottle mentions that it has rose and jasmine although I didn't smell them initially. Their influence is very soft. It honestly reminded me more of a men's cologne from my dad's stash that I had smelled as a child--but I loved it and brought it home with me to treasure. EVERYTIME I wear it, It gets complimented in the most funny ways. 100% Straight male friends have told me multiple times in multiple ways that it smells so amazing that they want to nuzzle just because they love it so much! LOL. It's ambery richness is just like an old friend...I don't know how else to explain it. Perfect for fall and winter wear, although I have been known to indulge myself with a single spray to the left arm in the summertime and it's subtlety is complimentary to the hot Austin, TX summers. It's highly attractive, seductive and refined. I can't afford the Cartier watch, so I'll wear the next best thing--fragrance. I'm glad I found it!

This begins with yellow flowers for me... I feel the narcissus and definitely the ylang, and, although yellow flowers are not usually my "thing" I enjoy them here, and wish they would extend their visit. :) Pretty quickly, a beautiful musk and amber shine through, with a powdery, dry sandalwood... also lovely. The musk is somehow soapy and a bit skanky (thank you, civet!)... an almost impossible balance to find in any perfume. No laundry here, no armpit either, just goood, creamy musk that is powdery but not in a "talcum" kind of way, and a gorgeous, silky-smooth leather that only adds to the animalic smoothness I love here. The note pyramid is daunting... I get very little, if any of the fruits, maaaybe a hint of orchid and rose... and just barely enough carnation and aldehydes to give the perfect nod to vintage elegance... perhaps a *bit* dated, but I happen to enjoy that in perfumes, if it is done subtly. The overall impression, for me, is a soft, warm, skin-like clean... a billowy cloud of musk and sandalwood that breezes over my skin ,like an amber curtain, but also manages to project just enough, and holds on tight! Must is sexy, but in a soothing way, like an intimate embrace with a well-known, comfortable lover. My husband is not on board just yet, which makes me a bit sad... I wish he could find this as sexy as I do, but his tastes lean more toward the super-sweet or verrry spicy/woody. I haven't got him on the animalic/musky team yet. Oh, well... I love it, and I don't mind sniffing myself, at length... ;)

How in the world did I live so long without this beauty in my life? Two of my fragrant correspondents on here recommended this to me (thank you so much, nhledger and Anamandy!!) and I am eternally grateful! How to characterize Must de Cartier? As other reviewers have noted, the links to Opium and Obsession are clear, but I find Must more versatile and even slightly more complex. I suppose I'd call it a powdery-green chypric oriental, the amber, spice, and civet of its fragrant cousins attenuated and illuminated with a considerable dose of bright green galbanum, plenty of powdery sandalwood and tonka, and a lovely floral-creamy blend of vanilla, orris, and ylang. If possible, imagine the cherubic, ethereal lovechild of Dune and Vol de Nuit, and voilà, Must de Cartier. The composition is miraculously smooth and sparkling thanks to its florals and citruses while also sporting deeper, richer facets of wood, musk, and leather. It plays on the skin like sunlight dancing on the rippling surface of a lake in summer, awash in the golden light of sunset. I think many will find it more wearable than its muskier, spicier, sultrier relatives, and less dated. The contrasting olfactory tonalities here make it suitable for any gender, season, occasion, and time of day. The bottle is sturdy, retro, and a pleasure to hold. I imagine this was more of a powerhouse upon its release, but the current formulation does more than okay for itself in terms of performance as well. What a gem!!

I can't imagine anyone buy this fragrance and not falling in love with it 💛... I tested this because I love Must de Cartier Pour Homme... and if it’s possible or logical to pick a discontinued fragrance as a signature scent, it would be Must de Cartier Pour Homme for sure... it was the only fragrance I kept buying until it was unfortunately discontinued... Anyway as much as I wanted this to be similar to the MDC men's version, it surprised me differently (in a good way)... It’s a super classy and well-rounded version of Obsession for Men by CK (which I also love)... In fact, it’s closer to Obsession Men than Obsession Women ( I disagree with the votes up)... I've owned both, especially the men's version, multiple times... it's not like 80% close.. no, but it's a reminder like 30% to 40% . The scent profile is definitely classic 'old-school' type, but WOW it's so classy and luxurious... timeless and feels precious like gold👌 Personally, when I sprayed it, I instantly got smooth dark chocolate and amber with the vintage aldehyde touch... I can’t quite explain it as there is no chocolate listed in the notes... maybe the orris root is the reason, as I’m one of those who recall chocolate when I smell powdery notes... however, after a few minutes, it became closer to Obsession Men.. only much more feminine, refined and sophisticated... Yes, it's leaning more towards the mature feminine side.... But who cares? I’ll keep it on my list! 10/10

Sniffing Must makes me hang my head in shame; how come I've tested 1000+ fragrances during the last years and skipped this opulent oriental wonder?! I mean, looking at the notes was like: - Galbanum? Meh. - Leather? No, thank you. - Civet? Neeext! At last I was gifted a vial carrying some deep amber/cognac liquid labeled as ''Must de Cartier'' which was no less than the vintage parfum. The first thing I noticed was the galbanum which can be shaped in many forms and this one comes close to the kind found in Safari by Ralph Lauren. Here is mixed with some heady woody spiciness which apparently comes from the rosewood + carnation + tonka and reads as cinnamon bark. I don't get much of the sparkling green notes but that's probably due to the parfum formulation. Then it gets warmer, smoother, sweeter as the amber and vanilla come forth and mix with the previous notes which are always present. So what about the animalic elements that scared me in theory? Well, I can say that I get no skunk whatsoever, only warmth and the impression that it smells not like just as a mix of notes but like a living creature with flesh and bones. Almost feels like being hugged by a friendly furry bear(!) The galbanum provides some chypre-like elegance wrapped in warm oriental opulence, I find this concept very clever. Can imagine Must worn by a person who possesses well deserved authority along with genuine compassion and kindness. Superb.

There will never be a perfume like Must De Cartier again. I was in my early teens, in Europe when Must started making its presence known in our small town. It was treated like pure gold. If you had this, everyone wanted to be your friend. If your mom had it, and your friends came over, the bottle was bound to be stolen and then sold as multiple decants all over the town. I think I was 13 when I first landed a small decant in a green splash bottle, and I knew then that if I ever had money, I will amass an enormous perfume collection (and I have). Between my husband and myself, lies close to 530 different fragrances. Still, Must is the one that beats all of them combined. I don't know if it's the memories of this amazing perfume from way back when, or going out and being careless, or maybe just the fact that this is the most unique and special perfume out there, but we always come back to it. I think we have 6 different versions currently. I am wearing the Pure Perfume version as I am typing, and I am in heaven. I just have no words to describe it. As I said, nothing comes close to Must, and nothing ever will. The version I like the most is the red cap version in a silver box - that formulation is really, really good. The black box version is closest to what I remember Must smelled back then, but I find that longevity is much shorter than of the ones in silver and red boxes. Must de Cartier simply exudes class.

This fragrance is growing on me in a wonderful way. It was recommended as a heavy galbanum fragrance, and it is--but not in a typical way. To me, it's more a deep vintage vetiver and vanilla scent. It is rich and almost opulant; I wore it in a sundress, but felt like I should have had on leather, fur and pearls. The leather scent was surprisingly distinct, in a way I've not smelled so strongly before. I also smell the orris root, which gives an earthy groundedness. As it dries down, the citrus notes come out, but this is never a gourmand fragrance. Even the vanilla--present throughout the transitions this scent goes through--is not a foody vanilla. I have tried Shalimar, and prefer Must. It contains many similar notes, but is missing the incense and patchouli notes in Shalimar which I know from experience do not work well for me. Must is much preferable to the heavy smokiness I got from Shalimar, but shares a similar gravitas which I enjoy. To me, this is a perfume for cool days and formal evening events....but, I wore it to a warm spring Good Friday service and another very warm day, and it seemed a perfect fit there as well. It is cool...and yet warms nicely, which I attribute to the galbanum, my reason for being interested in this fragrance to begin with. Overall, a very pleasant and unique scent I'll look forward to wearing again.

Must has since it's inception been my non date evening going out scent. I've tried a parfum of the reformulation and have added it to my discard pile. The new formula does indeed smell a lot like Obsession. The old scent did not. If you don't want to pay the outrageous price for the original scent, the older versions of Krazy Krizia are a much closer smell to the old Must. They can be found on Ebay rather cheaply. In my opinion, the Must parfum is the concentration to wear for nights out. The liquid has a rich almost red color and carries a deep spicy smokiness which is missing in the lesser concentrations. For daywear, I like the EDP. To my nose, the EDT smells altogether different, one that I never used. Must is an elegantly sensual bright spicy warm Oriental without the dark sultry overtly vamp nature of Magie Noire. Must is sexy, but much more subtle. It's spiciness is not as heavy as Samsara's or the original CoCo's. It's fruitness is not as dark or as boozy as Opium's. The amber, wood and soft florals reveal just a trace of leather. This is an opulent but restrained and earthy scent. If you can afford it, this is one fragrance to try in an older formula. Parfum minis sell for about $20 to $30. The sillage is healthy but not overpowering like others in this class. The longevity is fabulous often lasting over night.

dopo anni di allenamento, riesco adesso ad accostarmi ai cosiddetti grandi classici orientali senza troppo raccapriccio - chissà forse arriverà il momento in cui gradirò anche il n.5. oggi provo il must: ricchissimo, ipercomplesso, come molti profumi pensati e realizzati negli anni 80 e anche prima, quando la profumeria era astratta e surreale. la qualcosa aveva pure un senso: perchè, direi oggi, profumare di qualcosa che già in natura esiste? quindi spazio alla creazione, unica, irripetibile, originalissima. di cose così ce ne sono tante e tante sono quelle molto riuscite e assolutamente non datate. una di queste è must: che è verdissimo (prime note di galbano) e pare anche aldeidico, ma poi vira sul fruttato (nella piramide c'è frutta per tutti i gusti), sfiora il floreale passando per il legnoso e si ferma su un delizioso resinoso. inutile citare tutte le sensazioni provate, sono troppe, e ogni pelle sia maschile che femminile (questo è un profumo decisamente unisex) riuscirà a scatenarne alcune piuttosto che altre. come per altri capolavori quali k de krizia o helmut lang, si tratta di un senza tempo che ancora ammalia. ottimo.

Although Must de Cartier is about my age, I got to smell it only after the collapse of the Iron Curtain, when French perfumes finally reached my country. Back in the early nineties I was still a kid, and the women who wore this fragrance made quite an impression on me. One of those women was my then-best friend's mom, so this fragrance feels pleasantly nostalgic. Must de Cartier is one of the most luxurious fragrances ever created, right up there next to Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Chanel No 5 and other timeless masterpieces. I had this opulent oriental several years ago and have recently bought another bottle of it just to enjoy its scent again and reminisce about happier days. It is as ravishingly beautiful as I remember it, like an enchanting garden full of flowers and citrus trees next to an ancient temple in which incense is burned. The animal notes are subtle, complemented by a strong amber that smells divine. It blends wonderfully with the powdery, narcotic flowers and exotic woods and gives the fragrance its oriental character. This is a true masterpiece, and unfortunately hard to find in my country.

Another reformulation horror story. I have two bottles. One has the red cap and the other has the clear cap. The older formulation (red cap-batch code 1JAB- Sept.2011 ) is the one you want. The newer formulation (clear cap-batch code 2KAA- Oct. 2012) is good but is certainly lacking the vanilla and amber depth and richness of its former glory. It is no longer sultry and alluring and lacks the warmth, depth, density it used to have. Addendum....very confused. I purchased another old formula (red cap) but the batch code- 4FAE- per CheckFresh site states that it was produced in June, 2014. It looks and smells exactly like my other older formulation red cap bottle but was produced AFTER my clear capped newer formulation bottle. Red cap versions are not abundant but still available per ebay. Get one before it is too late. It is a scent for a sophisticated, reserved and confident lover. Someone who knows the thrill is in the chase and in the anticipation. Someone not infected with the modern world's neurosis and culture of narcissism and cheap, undignified instant gratification.

Must de Cartier is one of the crowning jewels for the house, one of the great classics which will forever command love and respect. There’s something so effortlessly comforting about this scent, it transports you to a realm free of worry and concern - until you take your nose away from your wrist. Jean-Jacques Diener used Shalimar as a principle structure for this release, particularly with the use of the vanilla here. It’s incredibly smooth, the vanilla, tonka and Sandalwood create this creamy, almost buttery and flowy effect, elevated by the delicate warmth of rosewood and carnation. It’s got a bit of a bite to it as well however, galbanum and leather take pride in disturbing what you thought would be a boring scent. It’s gorgeous, I love it. So incredibly elegant and refined, this is a scent which demands smart clothing in a sophisticated environment. But at the same time, it remains perfectly polite and understated - like a person who effortlessly glides through the room, capturing the attention of everyone around them without even saying a word.

Is Must de Cartier a "must" or a "musk"? Bought this fragrance based on: 1. My reminiscence of this scent back in the 80s 2. The close relationship with Obsession for Women, Eau de Parfum, that I would kill for 3. The great comments of the Fragranticans I am slightly perplexed because expecting the wow factor when sprayed myself this morning, I only got the wrong factor instead. Huge disappointment! Unfortunately, I do not get more projection and silage than with Musk by Jovān that costs 2/3 of the price I paid for Must. Also, where has the complexity I remember gone? Must used to be a shower of different notes such as toffee, vanilla, peach, summer fruits, caramel, a bit like Obsession but more classy and subtle. I only got a weak aromatic, vanilla, powdery whiff that dissipated after a few hours. That makes me wonder what they have done to Must? Has it been reformulated? Weakened? I really want to love it again, but I'm not sure if it is going to happen. I have Musk and Obsession to compensate and I think I will have to say goodbye to Must...

Update on my previous comment I probably have been too harsh in my previous posting as I decided to spray Must again yesterday and even though the uberstrong sillage it used to project is no longer here, I must say it is a very good...reformulation. Must was still there standing on my bathroom shelf tempting me very day since March and I gave it a second go. To my sense it is a more unisex oriental at the bottom of the pyramid of the "vanilla" ones that are my favourite: Must, Obsession and the queen of all Shalimar! There is a certain fresh burst in the opening which is makes it more masculine than feminine (maybe caused by the reformulation) before heading into the balanced vanilla, powdery, flowery notes: not too risky, almost shy and turning into a very safe skin scent. The bottle is very masculine too and feels heavy in the hand! I know there was a version for men in the past, have Cartier combined both into one?... Apologies Must, I have misunderstood you, let's become friends again!