Pur Lilas

Chef's kiss. This really makes an impression and Mathilde Laurent is a true impressionist! This is a real bush of spring flowers, lilac, magnolia, hyacinth, etc. Insanely realistic, not perfume-like, with my eyes closed I would definitely say that I am in a fresh garden. This hyperrealism has both pluses and accompanying minuses (for some) - indole, damp woodiness, earthiness and even a little moldy flower and moldy leaf somewhere. A bit similar to En Passant only at the beginning (first 10-15 minutes), then En Passant is pale, faded, dying and dry. In general, if you want to spend a lot of money, Cartier's offer is much better than Malle's in all parameters - juicier and brighter, more modern and artistic, better technical characteristics, price and packaging - everything is better here. Except that it is less accessible. It's too interesting for the luxury segment, and one as conservative as Cartier, to be honest.

Pur Lilas is hands down the best out of the holy grail lilac perfumes (En Passant, Lilas by Fragonard, and French Lilac). What makes it stand out is this beautiful earthy undertone that gives it such a realistic touch. It truly smells like standing next to a lilac bush in full bloom, not just the blossoms, but also the damp soil underneath after a spring rain. It’s that exact scent of lilac flowers after three days of heavy rain soft, fresh, and a little bit nostalgic. Pure nature in a bottle.

Pur Lilas is not what I would call a classic lilac fragrance. In all honesty it is one of the most "Impressionist" fragrances I have ever had. This composition is more of a perfumer's vision of lilac and the emotions that it brings out, than the flower itself. The perfume opens up with crisp green notes, and for a moment there I did wonder whether lilac was going to be present at all. I felt as if I was walking through the garden in May, fresh, after a thunder shower filled the air with ozone and greens of the surrounding bushes and trees. The lilac did appear shortly after. It is a white garden lilac (the one with many petals and more subtle aroma, when compared to the purple, four-petaled one). Its projection is strong and exceptionally accurate, down to the last note of bitter raspiness of the natural lilac's scent. It brings an image of crisp white cotton shirt and a neutral blazer with a kerchief and a Prima Luna Longines watch. This scent does not shout, - it makes a statement, - confident, elegant and unmistakable. It's perfectly "at home" in the boardroom, Michelin star restaurant or a walk down the Bond Street. It has the presence of self-confidence and worth, unbothered by the fads or trends of others. And then comes the most interesting bit - an undercurrent of wet soil under your feet (don't forget - we are walking through the garden fresh after the May shower). The earth is wet, but not muddy, it has that sweet and spicy feel, when it is at its most fertile and alive. And now you are barefoot, child-like, in perfect unison with the nature around you. Rose petals are carried on the gentle breeze, softening the bitter notes, making the composition more round and giving it a romantic, innocent tint. But lilac rules supreme, in its full glory and self-assertiveness. It gives a sense of belonging and standing apart at the same time. It is amazing how such an uncomplicated composition makes an impression which many others, no matter how diverse and expensive fail. White lilac in May, after the rain, with a flutter of rose petals - and you are on the top of the world - eternal, unforgettable and yourself.

Realistic damp soil note and lilac. The soil note is prominent to the point of overwhelming the lilac. The lilac note is fleeting at best. It’s a quality fragrance and probably could be layered with florals for a nice floral scent. Edit: I’ve owned this for a months now and it’s really grown on me. This has strong projection and longevity. Used lightly it’s a realistic floral in a natural setting, like the air in a meadow. Pretty amazing. I don’t have anything like this.

Like Pur Muguet and Pur Magnolia, this has undertones of green banana and fresh grass. The lilac is most prominent in the top with a lot of insole. Once the heart is revealed, the lilac is much softer and it becomes very similar to muguet and magnolia. Gorgeous nonetheless.