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Chanel

Antaeus Sport Cologne

1985· Jacques PolgeAmadeirado aromáticoMasculinodemanda baixa em decants
Frasco de Antaeus Sport Cologne, de Chanel

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Acordes dominantes

  1. especiado fresco
  2. aromático
  3. couro
  4. amadeirado
  5. terroso
  6. musgoso

Pirâmide olfativa

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Traduções chegam aos poucos — textos em inglês por enquanto.

  • em inglês

    It's nice that Fragrantica finally added a review page for this a bit ago, so I can add it to my profile, and so I don't have to write a review about an obscure(d) variant of a scent on the scent's main page. I will work from the top; I saw a Sport Cologne sample with card from the 80s for sale recently, the inside was marked with the most apt and brief description of this scent (relative to the original Antaeus) that I could find: "Lean and Lithe, but still Potent". It retains the animalic core of Antaeus, you can sense it most as it dries down, but this does less to couch that core in heavier sweet notes like the tonka-myrrh amber accord Antaeus is so well known for. It still has a honeyed aspect to it, make no mistake, and it retains all of the mossy bite of OG Antaeus, but opens up with a much more refreshing start. Peppermint is a big part of this opening, I'm sure, but it smells a fair bit more citric, too. I live in Southern California, and for me, in our regular weather, I'd wear this over the OG any time. Although, visiting my mother in New Hampshire in December, I heavily preferred my original Antaeus to it. My Sport Cologne bottle is from '86 by the batch code (hard as all hell to find but I did), and my OG is a splash from '84, both seem to have the original unaltered real castoreum formula that was discreetly changed by Chanel in '91. I would venture to guess that this reformulation also applied to Sport Cologne bottles from later in '91, to mid-'93 when it disappeared from all ad-material and boutiques, so BUYER BEWARE. I would hate to see or hear that someone spent mondo money on eBay for one of these, only to find that it's mostly lacking the animalic component I discuss here. It's an integral part of understanding Antaeus, as well as the differences between this and the original. Despite this being a "Sport Cologne" (that's 80's for "gym fragrance"), they didn't change the animalic component much at all relative to the OG in the 2nd year bottle I found, but they changed everything else around it to the point that it comes off more intensely animalic. Again, to reiterate, I don't think they changed the animalic portion of the formula at all when making this. I certainly don't have reason to think they added more than is in the original, but I don't smell it being less, so what am I left to think? You may not appreciate that, but I do. At 22, I do. This smells like blow-fueled executives at Chanel put the screws to Jacques Polge (and Francois Demachy, in Chanel R&D at the time) to make a "sport version" of Antaeus since it sold so well on launch, and Jacques just colored-by-numbers to make something fitting that bill. The product, as at-odds with each other as the two goals may seem (gym + Antaeus), is a version of Antaeus I would wear like Aventus. A version I would wear to all of the same serious places, to business meetings, weddings, gatherings with older family, or funerals, but also to a club, GYM, or to a first-date. It's a bit less abrasive way of being upfront about my personality than to just do as I like and overspray vintage OG Antaeus. I don't want to be rude but I don't want any girl to make any mistake about what she's gotten herself into, either. I am hear to strike a balance, as Sport Cologne does. I will wear no skin-suit, I will wear Antaeus. Even when I silence my thinking, abstract from my perfume-mania, and smell it without the "reviewer's nose" if you will. I feel a level of comfort wearing this, that which you normally get from "safe" scents, one that I used to feel from Sauvage when I was much younger. Is it any surprise then, to hear that Francois Demachy was involved in this, and in a sizeable part of Chanel's peak? I know this is getting long-winded, sorry guys, love to all of you still reading. Longevity? That's always a thing us younger guys talk about. Sometimes we even worry about it in regards to our fragrances! Anyhow, jokes aside, this lacks NONE of it, even relative to the OG Antaeus formula. They both left two separate scent spots on a blanket my mother gave me, and stayed on that blanket over a month after I had left. 2 wash cycles, too. Mom's dog wanted a taste of this ALL DAY while I was there wearing it, and I had to fend her off. 2 months go by since I left, and its not just still detectable on the blanket to my Mom, but Mom called to let me know that the dog chewed up both sides of the knit blanket for it. Mom threw the chewed up, Antaeus covered Job Lot blanket in the trash, and then curled her up in my childhood blanket shortly afterward. Thankfully the dog knows not to tear that one up, she loves it. I should mention that the dog is big on grabbing and stashing things she likes. During my visit, one night I came home wondering where my fragrances went. I found my Sport Cologne bottle, among a couple of others, in a ripped up ziploc bag, under the couch, next to my thankfully untouched but still stashed chocolate-egg full of powdered hot cocoa mix. She even left a tooth mark in my makeshift cap for this, as if to make it clear which bottle she was after. Clearly it goes without saying that bitches love this fragrance, sometimes they're even human. 10/10

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