Le Lion Eau de Parfum

Today we're continuing the exploration of Chanel's prestigious Les Exclusifs collection with one of its most commanding and revered creations: Le Lion Eau de Parfum. Inspired by Gabrielle Chanel's lifelong fascination with the lion, a symbol that represented both her astrological sign and her fiercely independent spirit, Le Lion has become one of the most celebrated releases in the collection, frequently praised for its unapologetically bold character and remarkably luxurious amber composition. Since its release, it has developed a reputation as a fragrance that embodies confidence, strength, and refinement while remaining unmistakably Chanel in both its elegance and execution. Rather than chasing modern trends or reinventing the amber genre, Le Lion appears to embrace a far more timeless philosophy. Built around a foundation of rich resins, warm woods, and smooth vanilla, it seeks to deliver an opulent interpretation of amber that balances immense depth with the polished sophistication that has long defined Chanel's approach to perfumery. It is often spoken of as one of the house's boldest offerings, standing in contrast to the understated elegance that characterizes many of the other Les Exclusifs releases. Following my experience with Coromandel, another highly acclaimed amber fragrance from the collection, I'm especially interested to see how Le Lion distinguishes itself. While both fragrances occupy similar territory on paper, they have developed very different reputations within the fragrance community. The question is whether Le Lion can justify its status as one of Chanel's greatest modern creations by offering a truly unique interpretation of amber, or if it ultimately finds itself overshadowed by its equally legendary sibling. Let's find out whether Le Lion earns its place among the very best that Les Exclusifs has to offer. Opening: The opening is ambery, leathery, and sweet. The primary notes I get are labdanum, amber, Madagascar vanilla, and patchouli, with the labdanum and amber leading the composition. The labdanum immediately takes command of the fragrance as a rich, resinous, leathery amber accord. It leans heavily into its animalic character while carrying a distinctly smoky, incense-like undertone that gives the opening a remarkably dark and commanding presence. Following closely behind is the amber, expanding upon that resinous foundation with a smooth, golden warmth that feels more refined and enveloping than the raw intensity of the labdanum. The Madagascar vanilla works quietly beneath these heavier materials, introducing a creamy, natural sweetness reminiscent of fresh vanilla bean rather than sugary gourmand accords. Lastly, the patchouli rounds out the opening with a dry, earthy woodiness. While nowhere near as overtly earthy as the patchouli found in Coromandel, it serves a similar structural purpose by reinforcing the fragrance's woody foundation without drawing attention away from the dominant amber accord. The result is an opening that feels considerably darker, bolder, and more traditionally masculine than Coromandel while still sharing its unmistakable amber heart. Dry Down: The dry down is ambery, leathery, and powdery. The primary notes I get are amber, labdanum, Madagascar vanilla, and sandalwood, with the amber and labdanum leading the composition. By this stage, the amber has confidently taken the lead, delivering an even richer concentration of its signature golden warmth while becoming the emotional centerpiece of the fragrance. The labdanum steps into a supporting role but remains highly recognizable through its deep, leathery resinous character. Interestingly, much of the animalic quality present during the opening gradually fades away, replaced by a surprisingly soft, velvety powderiness that gives the fragrance a more refined and elegant character. The Madagascar vanilla continues providing a smooth layer of natural sweetness with little change in either intensity or profile, maintaining the balance established from the opening. Finally, the sandalwood replaces the patchouli as the structural backbone of the composition, contributing its signature creamy woodiness and reinforcing the increasingly powdery texture of the dry down. The patchouli remains faintly detectable as a dusty earthiness beneath the surface, but it has become little more than a quiet supporting accent. The result is a dry down that leans heavily into its amber core, allowing the rich resins and luxurious powdery textures to define the fragrance's final hours. Performance: The initial projection within the first hour of wear is incredibly strong, easily filling a room with very little effort. The sillage matches that intensity, leaving behind a dense, commanding scent trail that ensures the fragrance will not go unnoticed. Even after approximately four hours, the projection remains remarkably powerful at around six feet while the scent trail is a bit lighter but continues to be easily noticeable. By the eight to nine hour mark, the fragrance finally begins to settle, though it still projects an impressive four to five feet with a clearly perceptible scent trail. Le Lion does not officially transition into a skin scent until approximately eleven to twelve hours of wear, demonstrating the exceptional technical performance one would hope for from such a rich and resinous composition. When to Wear: Le Lion is unmistakably a fall and winter fragrance that feels most at home during the evening. Its dark, opulent composition makes it an exceptional choice for formal occasions, elegant dinners, anniversaries, or date nights where its luxurious character can truly shine. Despite its sophistication, however, this is not a fragrance that blends quietly into the background. Its rich amber profile demands attention, making it feel far too intentional for casual everyday wear while also being excessively bold for most professional office environments. Blind Buy: Le Lion is not a fragrance I would consider a safe blind buy. While the dry down evolves into a remarkably elegant and broadly appealing amber composition, the opening presents a very different story. The intensely animalic and leathery nature of the labdanum is likely to be immediately polarizing for anyone unfamiliar with or sensitive to those darker resinous accords. When combined with Chanel's luxury price point, that challenging opening makes sampling on skin an absolute necessity before committing to a full bottle. Final Verdict: Like Coromandel before it, Le Lion immediately announces itself as a fragrance of exceptional quality. From the very first spray, the richness of the raw materials and the meticulous attention to detail in the blending leave little doubt that this belongs within Chanel's Les Exclusifs collection. The commanding labdanum, radiant amber, and beautifully restrained Madagascar vanilla come together to create a composition that feels both deliberate and effortlessly luxurious. It isn't merely the notes themselves that stand out, but the remarkable refinement with which they are woven together into a cohesive whole. One aspect I found particularly compelling was the fragrance's evolution. The opening initially presents itself as bold, smoky, and unapologetically animalic, yet over time it gradually softens into something considerably smoother and more elegant without ever sacrificing its commanding presence. That transition gives Le Lion far more dimension than I initially expected and prevents it from feeling like a straightforward amber fragrance. Combined with its outstanding longevity and projection, the fragrance demonstrates the complete technical package expected from a luxury release of this caliber. What I find especially interesting is how differently Le Lion and Coromandel interpret a similar foundation. While Coromandel leans toward elegance through powdery florals and an almost gender-neutral refinement, Le Lion embraces a darker, more assertive personality built around smoky resins, leather, and rich amber. Neither approach is objectively better; they simply appeal to different sensibilities. For my personal tastes, however, I found Le Lion's more traditionally masculine character to resonate more strongly. Although I already own several outstanding amber fragrances, Le Lion offers a distinctive perspective that feels genuinely unique within my collection. It captures everything I look for in a luxury amber fragrance: exceptional craftsmanship, outstanding performance, remarkable evolution, and a character that confidently distinguishes itself from its peers. For those reasons, I can absolutely see Le Lion earning a place in my collection when the time is right. Scent: 8/10 Longevity:9/10 Sillage: 9/10 Versatility: Average Compliment Factor: Average Gender: Unisex, leaning masculine Value: Way overpriced

Le Lion de Chanel was composed by Olivier Polge for the Les Exclusifs collection. It is a bold (but not bombastic) and elegant amber oriental fragrance inspired by Gabrielle (aka Coco) Chanel’s astrological sign, the lion. It should evoke her persona... both the power she projected and the tenderness she concealed. While it was originally crafted with the Middle Eastern market in mind (as it was a location exclusive, for a while), its artistic refinement transcends regional tastes. For me, Le Lion was a serendipitous discovery. I wasn’t searching for, yet it climbed into my top ten. But that’s another story. Now, let's talk about the juicy stuff. The first spray opens with an elegant but assertive citrus accord. Sparkling bergamot and lemon, neither too sharp nor fleeting. It’s a bright introduction that sets the stage for the weightier story to come. Note that I said the magic word "sparkling"... as we are in Chanel territory, that almost certainly implies the use of aldehydes. After the initial sparkling burst, the core of labdanum emerges. Thick, golden, and resinous. This is the soul of the lion: warm, slightly smoky, and textured like suede - not a rubbery one, like Babycat. The scent here doesn’t shout; it resonates. There's a touch of amber, rich but never syrupy, layered with fine (not listed) incense that gives the fragrance a burnished glow. Hints of vanilla and creamy balsams start to thread through, softening the edges and making the composition plush rather than heavy. Although, I am sure that for some this may sound blasphemous... I think that the vanilla makes this phase quasi-gourmand. As the fragrance settles, vanilla and musk become more prominent. They bring warmth and refinement, never veering into sweetness. The animalic tones from the labdanum remain, but they will become progressively diffused. There’s a subtle, comforting woodiness, which most likely comes from the sandalwood and some touches of patchouli (and here's the similarity with Patchouli of the Underworld) completing a dry down that lingers for hours. Performance wise, it is immediately clear that Le Lion is no whisper. It projects confidently for the first 2-3 hours, then relaxes into a scent bubble that lasts well over 6 hours on my skin - on clothes, it will stay around until the next day. In my opinion, this is a scent that has gravitas, but it never overwhelms. It is never loud, but it is definitely robust and present. Le Lion is suitable for formal events, but I would also consider it in combination with smart-casual wear. If you are confident enough, 1-2 sprays max are good for the office. Date wise, absolutely. I never say to my wife what I am wearing, and she always comments that I "smell expensive" when I spray Le Lion on me... that's not a bad sign. Age wise, this is a +30. If you are playing the gender game, this is unisex leaning masculine. To conclude, Le Lion is a deeply expressive fragrance. It’s confident, comforting, and composed. It is one of those rare concoctions that actually performs a function... and it's not just a scent. Chanel's proverbial form and elegance is all there. That it found me by chance only makes it more special. Based on this long spiel, the price is prohibitive, but (bitterly) acceptable.

Long time Chanel boy to man here. This stuff is 24k gold in a bottle. It's the height of the house's skill and sheer will. There are very few houses who can literally bend the laws of perfumery physics to their will, and Chanel is and has been one of them for a very, very long time. What makes this fragrance so damn good? It's the coiled energy present in it at all times. If you could somehow liquefy flexed muscles gracefully in motion, moving languidly through tall grass with flashed razor edged canine teeth ready to attack...this is what it must smell like. The citrus top is energetic and fizzy, it opens light and sunny but just as you relax and anticipate the inevitable vanilla that you are expecting, infact nearly smelling, as it rolls up to take prominence, a darker, fiercer note arrives instead.., and for a second, you are stunned, even a bit apprehensive but then you relax and remember "ahh no worries, it's a Chanel, it's probably some nice aromatic aldehyde that is their signature" except and ...SLAPPPP (Rick James, Chappell Show style) ..it's MUSK BIT#%ES!!! That's right ladies and gentlemen, the dark, moody dawn that sets in on you nearly 3 minutes in is musk and it's a beautiful musk. It's animalic, it's sexy, it's uncharacteristically up front and it's on you before you can really realize what's going on...then just as you are about to straighten your collar and readjust yourself...the cleanest, brightest labdanum appears and baby, this is REAL Chanel labdanum and it's GLORIOUS. Kids, we aren't even 10 minutes in!!! Now you are trying hard to resist talking out loud to yourself.."what the actual ..." but Mr. Polge was reading your mind, maybe he read his father's copious notes, because at the very moment you are most unsure ...where next Le Lion is going to turn and leap, here in the breach arrives the indomitable Chanel Vanilla ...Bourbon Island Vanilla, laced on its gilded golden edges with those classical Chanel aldehydes ...sweet mercy it's good...it's damn near orgasmic when you feel it...it's the CC spot. The part where dirty, earthy, wet green patchouli arrives in a rush and links up with the arriviste Chanel Vanilla and Chanel Labdanum and BOOM...we have AMBER ladies and gentlemen... and it's rolling thunder over the savanna now and Le Lion is in full muscular flex, it's nearing top speed/acceleration and thus force...and it's shining now ..with that big, BIG, labdanum leading amber, shimmering all over the damn place with shadows of musk and in its wake is a cloud of sandalwood and what to me smells like just water splashed cooled, hot fir woods. This is a wild, glimmering slice of high perfumery art. Wear this when you have your best cashmere coat on, wear it when you have BIG things to do and BIG people to see. Just wear it so people you pass by can feel better about their poor, drab unChanel lives. bon chance

To me Le Lion is like the younger sibling of Coromandel (in a good way since Coromandel is in my top 3 favourite fragrances), they resemble eachother a fair bit to my nose, especially in the mid drydown, but yet they smell entirely unique and great in their own rights, and both do their own thing, much like siblings do as they grow up. It opens up with a bright fresh faintly zingy Lemon with a bit of airyness (undoubtedly Alehydes, as Chanel loves to use them), that soon dries down into a smooth semi-resinous Labdanum, surrounded in smooth sweet ambers that are honestly a bit addicting to smell, I also pick up an Incense or smoky note in general as well like in Coromandel's dry down, however it's less prominent in Le Lion, by notheless it enhances and compliments the sweet ambers and bold (yet restrained) Labdanum flawlessly. Speaking of the Labdanum, it's not that animalic on paper or my skin at all, it does carry a "restrained boldness" as I'd call it, but it's very much a likeable ladbanum in an artistic and mass appealing way. As the mid progresses, small hints of Vanilla start to come out, to sweeten and soften the DNA a little more than it already was, and a patchouli (much like its older brother/sister)note comes into the play too, but unlike Coromandel where it's Omnipresent, it's a lot more mellow and in the back in Le Lion. and Finally, the Mid is complimented by the signature attribute of the 'Les Exclusifs De Chanel' fragrances, that being a clean musk and abound powderyness, but in this fragrance both of them are a bit tamer than it the other fragrances of this line, with them resting just below the Labdanum + Ambers. Good for the colder and moderate weather, can be dressed both up and down, but definitely leans more formal than casual (but I love this almost as much as Coromandel so I'd wear it all the time regardless 😂), perfectly Unisex in my opinion but leans ever ever so slightly masculine. I get decently strong projection on my skin with about 9-10 hours longevity, it creates a nice scent bubble and trail, whilst not being very imperative which I'm a fan of. It just has this comforting and elegant aura of sophistication about it, just like its sibling does, with an equally smooth and beautifully addicting dry down, honestly it pains me to choose between them. In conclusion, it's easily my 2nd favourite Les Exclusifs De Chanel fragrance behind Coromandel, but that's not to discredit this at all, if anything I love this almost as much, and I love both of them for different reasons, but I'll likely be getting a full bottle of this, and when I do I'd probably wear it just as much. If Coromandel is a personal 10/10 for me, then this is a strong 9.5/10 So Final Verdict. 9.5/10

I bought Le Lion back in 2020 and was completely floored. We were dealing with the pandemic and Chanel had the audacity to launch a significant fragrance. I was shocked and proud to be in the know. It took me about 6 months to figure the fragrance out. I had a Fragrantica profile back then and wrote the most beautiful love letter one can imagine. I turned my head on the fragrance industry and forgot about Le Lion. I reduced my collection to a mere dozen or so from around 200. I wiped my Fragrantica profile even. And I regretted the decision. Badly. It is now that I'm missing Le Lion to much that I've had to get a new bottle. For those who have bought samples and write a review based on that... try harder. Some Chanel fragrances take years to appreciate. I can assure those who are seriously calling this a patchouli or labdanum bomb, revisit your thoughts. A fragrance of this reach is a complex thing. Nothing Chanel does is to grab attention. I've had those days when Le lion was smokey and rough. On other days it's comforting and warm. Chanel fragrances all have one thing in common. When I'm reading batch numbers and such, I'm scratching my head. I've bought one of the first ones that were available in Germany and bought a fresh bottle today. I can assure you, nothing Chanel does is even close to being a variation or reformulation. Product does vary, but it's mastery to get it right. I bought Egoiste 40 Years ago and I'm still buying it today. That is saying something. Chanel treats its customers like royalty. 🤴 It's a warm, powerful and unique fragrance. Let it rest. It will get smoother and even more rounded over time. Use it sparingly. When you read the list and try to detect each and every single item. Don't. It's a composition. It varies on your own mood. Le Lion is a Church with benches, it's holy, woody, warm and sacred. Try to resist the urge to hold your nose too close to your arm or wherever you apply it. Your loved ones will know you're present instantly, you don't need to double check. It's a masterpiece. Signature worthy. Clearly Chanel in any aspect. I'm glad I bought another bottle and you will too. If you like my thoughts hit the like 👍 button.

I have just offered myself the big bottle of this for my 50th birthday! Could not resist the temptation to reach out for an almost impossible to buy thing, since I live in Europe and this is only available for now in Dubai and some other markets across the ME. This means it was a blind-bought-nothing-cheap-about-it move, one I really enjoyed taking so to adding to the experience my own invented meaning of a risk-taking way of a lion... plus Coco’s own superstitious attachment to talismans and symbols! The full package, at least in my delusional mind? Le Lion de Chanel screams niche, it is poised to be an absolute commercial flop when they roll it out globally (just saying 😉 LOL), and I just love it. While there is (THERE IS! Now way around it) a Shalimar aura at first cloud projection – something about the vanillas in one and other must be related – there is also a not apologetic leather-musk-resin accord which turns the table big time; making Le Lion walk in an unalike path. Shalimar is a feathered magical being, it is ethereal; yet Le Lion is far more grounded, muscled, and, in some way, treacherous. I simply adore the way Olivier Polge placed here some of Coco’s cavernous and deep voice. Le Lion feels suede, looks beige, not brown-leather, smells straw-like burnt by the sun, not by fire. It captures Chanel elegance, in a powder-musky fashion, but it’s strong handed punch of resin grounds it in a way that Coco’s voice is there in exact same way the few recorded interviews with her unveil: her voice is not music, her voice is that of a judge who is always right. Cuir de Russie is my all-time favorite perfume; it can only be a present from life to have this chance to go leather by Chanel in a surprising fashion, yet again another turn in the merry-go-round. Le Lion is borderline off-limits Chanel signature – there is an undeniable animalic-amber element to it that simply isn’t Chanel-like – but as a paradox of sorts the masterful resin-sandalwood accord feels so utterly Chanel after the dry down. A not so tame Chanel that doesn’t give a dam about political correctness.

brutish, fleshy, and animalistic, this is the one fragrance in my collection i seldom wear not because i do not like to smell it, but because i must earn its company. le lion is a sticky, slightly bracing, and resinous labdanum scent with all of the nuances that comes with it when mixed with amber: leathery and birch wood tar-like qualities, catholic church incense swirling at a wake, buttery-smooth musky patchouli, etc. this labdanum is juxtaposed with a sun-kissed and energizing bergamot at the top (which is startlingly similar to the bergamot in shalimar,) and a sweet vanillic woodiness and dirty patchouli in the base (which is, also, startlingly similar to the patchouli in coromandel, minus the frankincense that is substituted for the almost myrrh-like nuances of the labdanum note). the brightness of the citruses ostensibly fade but forever remain as a thread in the scent, tantalizingly lifting this otherwise heavy and deep composition into potentially signature scent territory. but only for the right person. i MUST be in a good state of mind for this scent. i must be confident. loud, bold, and audacious before ever considering the three sprays it takes to project this extremely tenacious fragrance into every room i walk into for the next fourteen hours. there must be heels, red lipstick, and/or a couple of freshwater pearls. there must be piercing eyes, top buttons done up, severe tones of voice, and rapacious fortifying of my innermost being and spirit. it is a scent that demands a curtsy or a bow, a scent so carnal, ferocious, and austere that it is nearly unapproachable. i believe ardently that this scent encapsulates everything i aspire to be: different, not in the sense that i am camp or otherwise laughable, but idiosyncratically, distinctively different. it is too much for the wrong people. but it is just enough for the right ones. only after its company is earned.

Five years ago, I first came across Le Lion at a Chanel boutique and loved it instantly. Recently, I stumbled upon a great offering at what I consider a fair price (approx. 110 euros for 200ml), and finally fulfilled that long-awaited wish! Many people point out its resemblance to Guerlain’s Shalimar (EdT/EdP/Parfum) , but I find it closer in spirit to Jicky (EdT) or perhaps closer in scent to Shalimar EdC . The opening delivers a strong lemon-citrusy blast with a noticeable retro-tinged oriental accord. Soon after, as the citrus softens, a labdanum-vanilla-citrus blend emerges — very much in the Guerlainade style — giving it a clear kinship with Jicky EdT (though without its signature lavender) and Shalimar EdC. In the drydown, once the citrus is nearly gone, the resemblance to Jicky fades, moving further and further away. What remains is somewhere between the mixed-oriental, old wooden-cabinet atmosphere of Diptyque’s L’Eau Trois and the light smoky-oriental-leathery Guerlainade nuance of Shalimar EdC — leaning more toward Shalimar though. With more time, however, it eventually shifts closer to L’Eau Trois. ***************** And I agree with @scentine 's comment: ... it bears a striking similarity to Shalimar (perhaps particularly the EdT and EdC which are less sweet than higher concentrations) ... but strongly disagree on the comparisons to Ambre Nuit, Coromandel (neither EdT nor the EdP) and 1740 Marquis de Sade. ***************** Rating: 8-8.5/10 An excellent choice for lovers of classic-style orientals who don’t mind a touch of vintage character in the drydown.

Well, I've had a 200ml bottle of Le Lion for a couple of years now and have had the opportunity to really live with it, wear it on all occasions, day and night, to work, for pleasure, dinners and parties and on all seasons. And I love it, I absolutely love it. Le Lion is phenomenal. My bottle is from April 2021, batch code 6301, and the longevity is tremendous. I am wearing it today and I sprayed it on at 13:00, it is 23:18 right now and I can still smell it on my bare chest, I still get those warm smoky vanilla whiffs as the scent is still very much alive. And on clothes Le Lion will stay on forever, especially wool sweaters. I have a wool turtle neck that smells divine and I don't ever want to wash it I would say Le Lion works it's absolute best in the coldest months of the year, December, January and February if you live in Scandinavia that is. During the warmer months Le Lion changes and I've experienced a slight unpleasant gasoline:ish vibe in the complete dry down. At first I thought my bottle had gone bad or turned, but in hindsight I realize Le Lion is not suitable to wear in the warmer seasons, I think the moisture and the temperature affects the scent in a certain way. But it's OK really. Even nature changes from season to season. It is what it is. But come winter time and Le Lion is just glorious, so elegant and so alive, so warm and sensual. Powerful yet comforting. It really is a very sexy scent, without any vulgarity or panty dropper connotations. You will crave it, and it will keep on giving. It is a masterful creation. 10/10.

Prepare to be surprised. This will not be for everyone but many lovers of masculine scents will be thrilled. The first surprise is that is does not smell like a Chanel fragrance. Stylistically, I would place it closer to an old school Guerlain. Put it in an ancient dusty Guerlain bottle with an unreadable label and you'd have the Guerlainophiles scrambling to identify and buy precious decants of what has to be a lost fragrance. The second surprise is the depth, power and concentration of the fragrance. It will certainly stand out among the generally gentle polite Chanel Exclusifs. Coromandel and Cuir de Russie will finally have a friend on your shelf. My take on the experience is slightly different from what I have read so far but I must stubbornly insist that this is what I experienced despite the note list, publicity and previous reviews. I am sticking to it! It starts with a citrus opening but quickly I smell leather- skanky leather-blacksmith's apron. More leather than dirty smell but it is there and it stays. Two hours later that skanky note is still nudging me. Amber develops and softens, vanilla or something vanilla like sashays in quietly from the side. I'm stil not convinced it is actually vanilla. Is it benzoin or vanilla. It's not sickening sweet. The dry down is soft, powdery and close to the skin. Looking forward to other's experiences as more becomes available. I'd love to know what Thierry Wasser and Jean Paul Guerlain have to say about this one. Kudos to Chanel for a bold step.

Cuiromandel Ok wow, this is ballsy from Chanel Easily the most masculine leaning Les Exclusif ever, Le Lion explodes with dark labdanum, amber, sparkling bergamot and lemon, instantly smells classy and rich and surprisingly unusual for a Chanel, also slightly unapproachable, but in a good way, if that's possible. The development is slow and precisely measured, as the opening notes recede over 30-45 minutes it takes another unexpected turn and becomes even darker. The labdanum is huge, its dark and quite animalic. Overall the mid smells like unsweetened smoky tobacco and animalic leather. The leather impression is very real, to the extent that Le Lion can almost be considered an Oriental Leather fragrance. It could have been called Cuiromandel or something along that line and the name would have been entirely appropriate. The base is smooth and long lasting, a touch of sweetness is introduced but it never loses its smoky leathery character. Le Lion is a wild ride i was not expecting, but am seriously enjoying. While i feel this is masculine leaning, it would certainly work on woman, it has classic Chanel levels of sophistication and refinement that can be enjoyed by everyone. Performance is very strong, two sprays on a friend filled the room all evening. On my skin it was still very present after 18 hours, its not joking around. Very pleased with this release and its going to be in heavy rotation as i continue to discover all it has to offer.

I have what I consider to be a great impression of Chanel Le Lion, but I don't have the real thing, or didn't until a kind friend and fellow Fragrantican sent me a generous decant. Sprayed liberally--perhaps too liberally?--on my skin, I am struck by the smoky, animalic qualities in the amber. My Dua dupe is spikier with the bergamot, more like suede as opposed to raw leather, with less of the distinctive "burning tire" aspect. Both remind me of Shalimar EDP, especially the leatherier vintage formulations, but the Chanel is, I must concede, more complex and resinous than my Dua dupe, great as it is. Chanel Le Lion smells expensive and complicated and less like baby powder (which is how my husband sometimes describes Shalimar and its flankers). I have a dear friend who wears Chanel Sycomore when she needs an extra boost of bitchiness to make it through a meeting with bullies, and I could see her wearing Le Lion for the same purpose. This is a grown-ass adult scent, on every level. I do see Le Lion as similar to Shalimar, but it's very much coming from the Chanel perspective, not the Guerlain. For one thing, Le Lion is much more unisex than Shalimar, in any of its many iterations. I know there are many men who wear and enjoy Shalimar, and more power to them, but I think it is much more conventionally femme-presenting than Le Lion, with more florals and less patchouli. Le Lion, like Sycomore, seems to transcend gender altogether.

A queer perfume? I may be wrong terminologically, but it’s the only fragrance in my possession which is, I suggest, queer as if by design. I am obviously referring to the evolution from the resinous, labdanum heart to the sweet vanilic drydown. Surely, many contemporary unisex perfumes play the trick, but I feel like this is the one which is also serious about it, as in how raw can you smell (it), so am not thinking about it as inducing any feeling of queerness... Some famous classic gender-bending perfumes travel similar olfactory routes, particularly those marketed to women, such as Opium, Dune; those for men within the same category like Egoiste or Caron’s 3rd man rather reverse it so that from sweeter spices, jasmine etc. they get to drydowns considered masculine. Overspraying cuts through heavy cigarette-smoke, so that makes it a divisive fragrance: both those who praise and those who dismiss it offer good and valid insights below. It’s not what I would love to smell on others, it’s like entering a room/space where someone is actively living (and sometimes messing with chemicals), but who isn’t around. Yet I am quite amazed every time how mood-altering it is - even that ancient, citrus-bergamot top, as well as by the way its clearly signals its progression: a heart that lasts for over 10 hours, followed by another 5-6 hours to ponder the point raised at the beginning.

This is a very good labdamum and patchouli fragrance. It has great quality notes and excellent blending. I have a large collection with many Ambers and patchouli. I thought this is still special because of the realistic musk and vanilla interplay with the labdanum and patch. So I ordered a small 35 ml. On my 3rd day sampling this, from the mid to dry-down it is mostly a patchouli fragrance with vanilla. So now I'm regretting my purchase somewhat, because I have better patch and vanilla fragrances. I have Dior Ambre Nuit. It is the most similar for me of comparisons made to other fragrances. It has less patchouli, and a bit of rose and peppery spice, but the citrus and labdanum are a very similar accord in Ambre Nuit. UPDATE: I ended up buying a 75 ml of a batch from late 2022. I was told that the more recent batches have more patchouli, and sometimes too much for me. As the sample I reviewed from. My 2022 batch so far is more woody, in accord with bergamot and labdanum. In the mid, more vanilla. Newest batches are more like Chanel Coromandel; old batches, more like Guerlain Shalimar. The best YouTube reviewer Ramsey the Ram, says, "This is one of the very best labdanums out there. It has that Chanel sparkle that may be from some slight, unlisted aldehyde note." Rating: (2022) 9/10 God bless. John 3:16

Le Lion Le Lion leaves no room for misinterpretation of its profile. It makes it's impression with a lemony entangled labdanum blast, that quickly sheds the acidity with the amber and patchouli agreeing to share space with the labdanum. But gaining confidence after realizing that the labdanum is a gentle giant. This leathery and ambery combination courses through the scents veins from beginning to dry down; the patchouli and amber dims (but remains) towards the end, while the vanilla, musk, and sandalwood makes for a cloud of a gentle embrace that is akin to your lover The labdanum however reminds that the said embrace should not be misinterpreted for just gentleness; its a particular embrace that is gentle to an observer yet intense and deliberate to the receiver. Your lovers way of speaking to you without words, and showcasing their love and strong desire to not be without you, if you will Took me a certain amount of time to understand this one despite my genuine interest, but for me it's a fragrance that perfectly describes the sort of bond with your lover that need not many words in times where only the windows of their soul is plentiful A sexy, yet elegant and modest creation that can be given, or be received from both men and women; incredible

... I didn’t go to the boutique the next day but I did get a bottle. How to put this delicately? 🤔 This is an olfactory marital aid. As sure as a BOB is. I generally prefer clean smells. This is not a clean smell, in the best possible way. Here is what I am trying to say. We were already heading towards the bedroom but just to surprise her I sprayed a little on. The second she stepped into the room that look appeared on her face. Then she jumped me and we rutted like pigs. It was fantastic and definitely value added. I think I just discovered ecstasy for the silver hair crowd 🤣 If you associate this fragrance with physical intimacy like my wife and I do may I recommend Salome from Papillion. If Le Lion is the physical love you show in public, holding hands, hands in each other’s back pockets, a soft, lingering, but not too lingering kiss. That kind of stuff. Well then Salome is that hour you paid that professional for. You know the one. The one you were going to dominate. But somehow the tables got turned and now you are the one with the sore hindquarters. You had fun, you want to do it again, but let’s not make this a daily occurrence... That is Salome lol.

Le Lion is the pinnacle of simplicity, demonstrating just how gloriously complex and intoxicating such a humble note as labdanum can be. Chanel certainly took a step into unknown territory for their brand when they released this, it couldn’t be farther from their typical style - and yet they came out with an absolute masterpiece. This is the be all and end all of labdanum perfumes. Labdanum is a gum resin which oozes freely from the underside of the branches of Cistus Ladaniferus. Knowing this really helps to visualise what you’re smelling here as it’s intensely thick, resinous and sappy. The warm, dark, sweet and sensual odour powers through the intense balsamic facets of this powerful note, gently softened and smoothed out by touches of vanilla and sandalwood. This is easily my favourite labdanum scent of all time. It’s so warming and cosy, and yet persists with this brutishly strong dark balsamic facet which is just incredibly unforgiving if it’s a smell you’re not keen on. This is by far one of the best fragrances Chanel have ever made, and with a legacy like theirs that’s seriously saying something.

Ok so this is incredible like pure art form in perfumery. Shalimar is in its own right a masterpiece but this takes it and tweak it to make it more approachable by rounding out the edges and making it softer. Instead of the leather note in shalimar, le lion uses a white suede accord which give is an animalic edge appropriate for the name "le lion". I typically cannot stand this suede accord because of its harshness, but the opening spike furry is short lived and it is subtle in the background. The magic of Le Lion is its stages of scent & during the mid phase, its nearly identical to shalimar in that shimmery amber like effect & notes followed closely by this ultra smooth vanilla. The difference is the powdery note seems to be more of a soft sugary note whereas shalimar powderness is floral iris-like. Then comes the drydown which is my favorite bc this is when the citrus pops out with its tart like nature that is orange/lemon like effect but it is paired so perfectly with the sweet powder in the background.

It took me a few wears to get here but this is the one Chanel product that I think should get all the love and all the hype MFK BR540 and Terre d'Hermes Parfum Hermès get. I say that because I think this is perfect. There is no room for improvement IMO. Balance, notes, longevity, projection, strength, response to how it smells, quality of the bottle and sprayer are all right where they should be. My take on this is that it is labdanum heavy. This is leathery but it is a very complicated leather because it includes musk, citrus, patchouli and amber. Those are the notes that my nose is able tease out. I am getting freshly cut lumber, which I presume is the sandalwood. I have sampled five of the Les Exclusifs line. This is the only one that is worth your time and money. Speaking of money. I live in the states and the best way to purchase Les Exclusifs is from Harrods. If you really want to save wait until they have a 10% sale. A lot of people don’t believe me but it does apply to this line or did in 2024.

Got my nose on this one early on in 2021 and it was love at first sniff. Soon after I bought my first bottle. 2 years later I sniffed it again in the Chanel boutique but it was less strong as if the Labdanum was toned down. My first bottle was from batch 5001 (early 2020) and apparently not long after Chanel did tone down the Labdanum to make it lighter and more wearable for the markets airside of the Middle East. This was later confirmed by Chanel. So I stocked up on bottles with batch 5001 and before and I’m set for life; 5 200ml and 9 75ml bottles. Nowadays I don’t come across them anymore so I’m glad I did. The Labdanum is the biggest star and the all natural quality shines from beginning to end. Because it’s natural ingredient it’s changes constantly depending on the skin, body temperature and season. Fall and winter safe but in spring and summer it becomes a completely different frangrance because the Labdanum releases other natural qualities of the labdanum. A true masterpiece!