Les Exclusifs de Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Review of the original Les Exclusifs EdT release 31 Rue Cambon was a bit of mystery to me in Chanel’s lineup. I remembering thinking I was not sure why they felt they needed to set their classic jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang concoction on top of a woody base but there they went, giving us this perfume as one of the original Les Exclusifs EdT releases (which are better than the latter-born EdP equivalents, in my opinion - but that is for another day, another post). Then I wore it on skin and conceded a misreading (or misinterpretation) of the brief, because it instantaneously clicked what Chanel and Polge were trying to do. You are greeted with Chanel’s signature effervescent and prismatic aldehydes and bergamot, but they feel like a bit of an aside, like an emcee making sure you know you are at a Chanel event but whose purpose is to point to and introduce the character beside them: a looming, dark, sinewy and tight figure of black pepper. It works well, but the contrast is stark. Behind this cloaked figure rises Chanel’s famous jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang staple, adding color and levity to the mix, but the dark specter is still front and center. The florals, like the aldehydes and bergamot, also quickly dispense to bring onto the stage black pepper’s powerful foils of orris and labdanum. That’s when 31 Rue Cambon really gets into its rhythm. The starchy, grainy, powdery, floral aspects of orris combined with warm, sweet, leathery, woody, and animalic labdanum keeps the back pepper in check - more Eyes Wide Shut than full-on Psycho. Together they very convincingly turn 31 Rue Cambon into the promised chypre direction. And maybe perhaps turn it a bit too far, since an earthy, somewhat green, noticeably sweet and spicy patchouli breaks forward to carry the spicy darkness of the black pepper into the dry down, but the sweet earthiness of the patchouli doubles down on the labdanum and very nearly turns the whole of the perfume to a spicy amber direction... nearly. It is in small passing sniffs you grab the petrichor oakmoss aroma, some of the patchouli greenness, and the orris trying its hardest to stay alive, and it is these very small checks-and-balances that keep the perfume from turning more convincingly amber, in my opinion. Eventually the labdanum’s sweetness and animalics falls away, emphasizing wood and leather; the pepper and green notes of the patchouli fall away, turning loamier; a creamy and smooth sandalwood accord makes a small appearance, keeping the whole nicely taut; and you’re left with what is, indeed, a chypre. One instance when I wore 31 I reapplied it late in the afternoon, I could still smell it as a skin scent the next morning (quite impressive for an EdT), and it was with the heat and humidity of my morning shower that the oak moss really made a bold appearance (although quite brief). This stuff is as tenacious as the hardwood it means to represent. How ever you want to slice 31 Rue Cambon, it’s damn good. Never is it without the Chanel chic that we know and love - and while we are on the quintessential Chanel chic, the “powderiness” people always point out in Chanel’s perfumes is present, for sure, but in this format it is more of a texture than an aroma. There is a density, and linen-like luxury to 31, and just enough opacity to let some light through. But only just. It feels like a haunted garden in the dark. At one point light breaks through, bergamot and aldehydes, and you can see the light streaming through the trees and illuminating beautiful flowers, and then the light goes out. Something looms in the darkness around you, the trees and the earth beneath your feet come alive only in the pitch blackness of night, and their paranormal powers release aromas into the air like playfully nefarious specters. This perfume is dark, spicy, and very sultry - I would say sinister, even. Eyes Wide Shut. It is very out of character for a Chanel perfume, but marvelously done as a Chanel should be. What was going on Coco’s studio on Cambon, I wonder? Do I even want to know?

To my nose, this smells like a mix between Bel Respiro and Coromandel, with a pinch of 28 La Pausa's pasty iris thrown in for good measure. It also does smell somewhat similar to 1932, although this one's heavier and has more patchouli. The similarity to 28 La Pausa is most noticeable the first few minutes as the iris is really prominent then. As soon as it begins to dry down the iris seems to leave the picture which makes me a little sad since I'm simply in love with that note! We already have 28 LP and N18 though, so I guess I should stop complaining.. ;) The bergamot, green notes and a soft patchouli/labdanum quikly rules out the iris. The rose and pepper remain subtle throughout it's development. The creamy and exotic ylang ylang gently increases in strength, blending beautifully with the green notes. Actually, it smells a bit like a more fresh, peppery and green version of Myrrhe&Delires by Guerlain at this point, which is a compliment, since I really like that one. I'm not saying 31 Rue Cambon isn't unique though, because it is, it's just something about these different components that keep reminding me of those scents! This is a lovely, chic and classy perfume that no doubt, could be very beautiful on the right person. However, since I already have and love the ones mentioned earlier, this isn't a priority for me at the moment. This is actually one of the best Les Exclusifs when it comes to lasting power and projection though, which of course is a huge plus! Some of the ones that I love dearly, such as Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Bel Respiro and 28 La Pausa seem strong at first blast, but then- nothing. It really frustrates and saddens me, because I would really like to smell them for much longer! It might just be my nose playing tricks on me, but I wear my scents first and foremost for myself, therefore it's really annoying still. This doesen't seem to be a problem with 31 Rue Cambon though, which is a great thing if you like it! The most "concentrated" Les Exclusifs as far as I can tell besides this one, is N22, Coromandel, Sycomore, Jersey, Beige, Misia and 1932. N18, 28 La Pausa, Eau de Cologne, Bel Respiro, BdI, CdR and Gardenia on the other hand, are all pretty soft I must say, which irks me big time! I can understand that N18, 28LP, EdC and BR is probably supposed to be this way, but why BdI and CdR?! Does not make any sense.

I seem to be the only one that smells a strong lineage between Chanel 5 edt and 31 rue Cambon (see my previous review from a year ago below. And yes, I convinced myself and I am now a proud owner of a 31 rue Cambon 75ml bottle). If Chanel 5 is the Grand Dame, Eau Premiere is the exuberant, sparkly, but well brought up grand-daughter (I have this image of Rose in Downton Abby) and 31 rue Cambon is the well-bred, perfectly mannered, but approachable and warm daughter (to keep with the Downton Abby analogy, this would be Cora). I really like all three, but somehow 31 rue Cambon is my current favourite. The absence of aldehydes and of civet may give it less complexity, but I still feel wrapped in a warm cloud of classy indulgence. A perfect fall fragrance. ----------------- Previous review I tried this one today in Heathtrow. Starts with an off putting musty smell but then, after about 10 minutes, it changes completely on my skin and becomes this warm, sort of ambery (even though amber is not listed) and very enveloping smell. However, I am not sure I would purchase it as, on my skin, it bears a striking similarity with Chanel no5, Eau de toilette. As an aside, I find the no5 EdT and EdP to be completely different. I love the former and loathe the latter. I gather that 31 rue Cambon was developed way after Chanel no5 and, while retaining an old fashion structure and projection, it is somewhat more... Blended and polished? The longevity is amazing BTW. After more than 10 hours (most of them spent in a plane) I can still smell the dry down. It is now become a soft and slightly sweet wood, amber and patchouli presence. Very comforting and elegant. Very classic Chanel. So now, I am convincing myself that really, maybe, it is worth a purchase after all. LOL ... Apologies to all for my rather rambly review. Blame it on sleep deprivation.

31 Rue Cambon is an accidental love of mine. My mother used to have this and I inherited her bottle when she died. As my mother also had a very large collection of perfumes (and most of the Exclusifs line at some point or another) it didn't get much use. The result was a bottle that I never liked when I smelled the lid. I didn't care for it on my mother either, that is to say I was indifferent. However, nobody else in the family liked it either and so I kept it. I started to spray two sprays on my pillow at night and with regular use the bottle and the perfume both took on a life of their own which hadn't been there before with only occasional use. After a while, the perfume revealed a wonderful floral heart of rose and iris which would fill the room with only those two sprays, and what a wonderful smell it was! 31 Rue Cambon is a very indifferent perfume if you wear it occasionally. But use that bottle regularly and it blooms. There is something warm and soothing about having it on your pillow at night. I don't think I can justify buying something from the Exclusifs line just to spray on my pillow at night, and so when those last few drops get used up I'm going to have to let it go. But if 31 Rue Cambon manages to last another ten years and my perfume collection can be whittled down to taking up 'just' one shelf, I may return for a bottle. Well well Mum, looks like you were right after all!

I have found myself returning to this over and over in the last few months, and wondered why some particular situations made me reach for it unthinkingly. At last I know. 31 Rue Cambon is a scent of perfect poise. If I were an architect presenting a $250 million design to a client, I would wear this. If I were meeting a prospective mother-in-law for the first time, I would wear this. Meeting Presidents or Prime Ministers, I would wear this. If a certain situation or event demands impeccable credentials, or the idea of a certain situation or event makes me a little anxious, I wear only this, always. Virtually every other perfume I know has its inappropriate elements for some occasions (too sexy, too green, too frou-frou, too toothless, too weird, too heavy, too spicy, too strong, whatever). Not this one. Occasions have to rise to 31 Rue Cambon, not the other way around. I feel serene when I wear it, completely at ease in any milieu. Of course, it is an extremely beautiful scent, but never showy. It is perfectly self-possessed, and endows me with what self-possession I may lack, like a Chanel-clad fairy godmother. For these reasons, in my mind, it approaches a kind of perfection. I have always been much more of a lifelong oriental fan than a chypre fan. But no matter; I bow down to 31 Rue Cambon.

31 RC is another timeless, breathtaking Chanel masterpiece. I am excited by the genius of juxtaposition between the intense, tart bergamot and bitter, dusty patchouli. The bergamot seems to last and last, yet this is in no way a light and citrusy eau de cologne. 31 Rue Cambon retains an other-worldliness in every sense of the word. Smelling this, I am transported to someplace in Europe in the 20's or 30's that only a woman of Coco Chanel's stature would ever be able to visit. I feel like Chanel has let me into her world when I smell this ravishing scent. At times I am tempted to say that it's old-fashioned, like No. 22 or No. 5, but there is something cutting-edge or modern about it too, more so than any of the other Les Exclusifs I have sampled. It contains the Chanel-aide but without the aldehydes that can cause some to perceive Chanel perfumes as outdated (I said other people "perceive", but I do not find Chanel outdated no matter what perfume we are talking about!). This perfume takes me to airy summer gatherings at exclusive chateaux in the French countryside, behind sun-bleached wooden fences and wrought-iron gates. Stylish. Classy. Relaxed. I purchased a bottle!

So everyone knows that Gabrielle Chanel purported the whole "A woman shouldn't smell like flowers, she should smell like a woman" thing to sell/describe Chanel No 5. Okay. I think that Chanel 31 is the No 5 for the 21st century. Truthfully the whole perfume is so well blended and so stylized that it's hard to exactly tell what I'm smelling, but to me it smells like class and a million bucks. And it just SMELLS SO DAMN BEAUTIFUL!!! 31 is pretty linear, admittedly. It smells like soft aldehydes, velvet, citrus and bergamot, iris, patchouli, woods, and ylang ylang, they all come in at one time or another, or last throughout. 31 has good longevity, nice silage--not too much and not too little. I was lucky enough to get a pre-2014 bottle of this stuff so it's nice and potent. And it is one of those perfumes that seem made for dressing up and special occasions. I can't think of anything else that smells like this, and it really is worth every penny. This was the perfume that made me take a long look at my collection, and sampling in general, and I was like, "Why would I waste my time with OK perfumes, and the unknown, when I could just be wearing Chanel 31?"

Tried this one today in Heathtrow. Starts with an off putting musty smell (probably the aldehydes) but then, after about 10 minutes, it changes completely on my skin and becomes this warm, sort of ambery (even though amber is not listed) and very enveloping smell. However, I am not sure I would purchase it as, on my skin, it bears a striking similarity with Chanel no5, Eau de toilette. As an aside, I find the no5 EdT and EdP to be completely different. I love the former and loathe the latter. I gather that 31 rue Cambon was developed way after Chanel no5 and, while retaining an old fashion structure and projection, it is somewhat more... Blended and polished? The longevity is amazing BTW. After more than 10 hours (most of them spent in a plane) I can still smell the dry down. It is now become a soft and slightly sweet wood, amber and patchouli presence. Very comforting and elegant. Very classic Chanel. So now, I am convincing myself that really, maybe, it is worth a purchase after all. LOL ... Apologies to all for my rather rambly review. Blame it on sleep deprivation.

Now I know why I love this so much, into the drydown reminds me of the pachouli / chocolate / subtle anise from mens's L'Instant. Sits wonderfully on my skin and had a great time trying it on at NM here in Houston. It's a muted powdery floral that keeps this watery undertone to it, fresh and green. Quite captivating, enough that I would write about it. It's understated and luxurious and would find this great to wear in copious amounts for an evening out or go lighter on the trigger for a day at the office. It's a living room and cocktail fragrance with a dimly lit chandelier. And this is a good thing. JG 033012 042312 edit: I tried this once again, couldn't help it, and I love this wonderful fragrance. Smells incredibly close to Apres L'Ondree but a tad woodier and longer lasting having tried it on opposite sides of my forearm. I can see myself owning this beautiful scent. It still conjures a grand baroque style French apartment to me with lots of gilded mirrors and brocade wallpaper. JG

I tried several samples of 31 and had to think about it before committing to a full bottle. Now I just wish I'd gotten it sooner. Absolutely gorgeous scent. Like most reviewers, 31 goes citrus > nutty/leathery > patchouli/lightly sweet with powdery notes along side the whole way. I don't smell anything floral on myself, but a scarf worn after putting it on does smell vvvv slightly of flowers, though no specific variety. Mostly this is an extraordinarily well-blended scent that captures the best of some of my favorite notes like labdanum & patchouli. I'd call it unisex but the spouse disagrees; he thinks it's extra feminine. Longevity is excellent on me & spouse says it's staying v close to my skin (I can never be sure), so it looks like it'll be good for all occasions. I agree with the other reviewers who say 31 smells chic. What's nice is that rather than feeling like I have to dress to match the scent, I feel that 31 just makes whatever I wear seem stylish.

I can't truly say this feels like a chypre to me. But it's lovely to have an earthy-bergamot accord which is so warm, inviting and approachable. There is no quality of austerity or coldness here. I understand why many people find my favorite classic chypres to be challenging, and in some situations I feel self-conscious wearing them. But this, never. I imagine most people readily percieve the appeal of this scent. It's just plain beautiful. I wear perfume becasue it has a beneficial effect on my mood and outlook, a sort of low-level sensual ambient experience that lasts all day. If other people like it, so much the better, but it isn't why I buy perfume. I don't usually get compliments on my perfume from people I casually interact with during the day, probably because the majority of stuff I like is considered to be out of style. This is the exception, the only perfume in my collection that has ever garnered compliments from acquaintances or strangers.

“Be Chic” is Coco Chanel’s style we can see on her back and this fragrance is very iconic, a symbolic creation. She continues to make small evolutions happen inside her body with keeping tradition made by herself. She does it very lightly in a sophisticated way, this is the reason I am a fan of the house/maison Chanel. People gaze at her with reverence and adore her sophistication, a front runner. I can breathe more deeply and feel oxygen when I wear this fragrance, I am in the new world, it might be said “intoxicating”. The best in the collection. I am looking forward to trying the next, “Jersey”. How many people can feel relaxed without jersey? How many people prefer to spend hours in bed wearing silk satin or cotton linen now? Most of us cannot feel relaxed without jersey anymore, it is very interesting concept.

Just bought 31 rue Cambon yesterday...... There are many raves about this fragrance, to me raves serve as suggestions to what people generally like and it might also signify how good a fragrance might me. When I was in the boutique trying out 31 rue Cambon yesterday ( I have been to the boutique trying it out a number of times to make sure I really like it and vice versa), I gave in and pulled my card out finally. It is a skin scent, very beautiful sheer and elegant. It does not feel overtly feminine and I can see a confident gentleman carrying it off nicely. I was wearing a modest amount of No. 5 Edt when I was in the boutique, so 31 rue Cambon was layered upon it and the effect was mesmerizing, it's a cloud of beauty surrounding me. I love it on its own, when layered it is absolute love.

Second wearing: I am dying of lust for this. I struggle with Chanel. I was in Macy's today trying No. 5. It vanished on me, like so many Chanels do. But this! It's rich. I'm wearing about 1/3 of a ml, which would be a lot for some frags and not enough for others. Pungent citrus topnotes were soon gone, and now it's a thick floral, and although it's called a chypre, I agree with folks who say that, lacking oak moss, it's not exactly a classic chypre. There's a pungent little waft of patchouli that cuts the heavy floral nicely in a way that makes me think a bit of pine. I keep taking really deep breaths, because breathing with this on is such a pleasant experience! It will likely be the next decant I buy. This and 1000 are my favorite florals; complex and not too sweet.

A Chanel? Are you sure? Seriously??? B-b-but...I don't like Chanels (at least the ones I've sampled). I despise the iconic No 5 and I certainly never l.o.v.e. a Chanel. Until now. One whiff, I am transported to a grassy bank along a burbling stream. A golden sun sparkles from the water as it's rays shine to gently warm me through the new spring leaves over my head. Delicate, elusive fresh flowers interspersed with a spicy crispness. I want a wine that tastes like this smells. Effervescent. Now I must decide, get the sensible size? Or spend less than twice as much and get it in the bathtub size? I'm afraid 6.8 oz will require wearing it everyday for yeeears. Can't have that. Too many other luscious lovelies tucked away need attention too. Such decisions are hard!

I also like to thank Xrayer for the sample, she is one of the Angels of the perfume world spreading the words of the most beautiful perfumes in this planet. I also have Coromandel but I never get compliments on it, but I get compliments with 31 Rue Cambon. A very similar perfume to Acqua di Parma Profumo that I also adore. I think miss mills words are perfect for this perfume. It's so elegant and feminine. what a gem I wish I win the lotto and could stock up this perfume because t's really beautiful, I don't come across this kind of perfume very often what I mean is I'm a little sick of all the synthetic and sugary perfums that's is coming our way every year. But 31 Rue Cambon is a diamond in the middle of rhinestones. Highly recommended.

I am at a lost for words to describe this. At this point my soul is crushed. As I watch a loved one drowning and all they have to do is stand up. So I spray this on, and it touches the innermost part of my soul. Many arrows are slung in my direction as of late, and it is as if Mademoiselle Chanel herself handed this bottle to me spiritually and said "wear this". Tis odd, but those reading this who are the real fragrantistia's will know of what I speak. Fragrance is a magic elixir. Chanel has been there all my life, first 5, always 5....22, 19, others and now this. It is not Calgon who takes me away, but Chanel. What a gift from God she was....anyone who works for her beloved Chanel line is blessed to have the privilege to do so.

This is a refined aldehydic chypre featuring a peppery opening and a warm peachy note in the heart. The prominent ylang ylang note wears animalic on me as it does in all Chanels that feature it, but in a restrained, decidedly chic way. Its a very nice approximation of a chypre minus the oakmoss. Though patchouli gets a lot of votes here, I think patchouli haters should still give it a try as there is nothing soil-like or hippy about the patchouli in this. What's noteable about 31 Rue Cambon is that it feels like it could have been made at the same time as Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie, it feels and smells vintage 20's. Beautiful and refined. This would make a wonderful and distinctive signature scent for a fashionable woman.

The following comes from a rather determined patchouli hater... I LOVE 31 Rue Cambon! What is this witchcraft? What is this magic potion? I've always been a white flower girl, but now I can't stop smelling my wrist. Everything is in such a perfect balance here, just wow. It is like a Zen garden to me, not scent-wise, but an impression. Everything is at the right place. Bergamot and narcissus are sparkling, and my hated patchouli (I really dislike Miss Dior EdP and Coco Mdmsll) is simply divine here. Then iris and some flowers come and the dry down is dry, wealthy and grown-up. I never thought I'd say this about patchouli... I am happy to be wrong, bowing down to 31 Rue Cambon and the mastery of the perfumer.

31 Rue Cambon feels like coming home. So easy to wear, comfortable and understated. It's beautiful, well blended and fits me like a glove. The ylang-ylang in here is reminiscent of the Chanel no.5 EDT but my favourite notes in this scent are the iris, patchouli and labdanum combination. In the opening, I get a sour green note with patchouli, ylang ylang and a bit of iris. An hour later, the iris and rose notes dominate. The dry down is all labdanum. I like pepper but it doesn't have a feature in this one; whatever role it's playing in this medley, it plays it in the background and well. My only wish is that the patchouli stuck around longer. That aside, I think I've found my signature.