Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie

Paris 1921. Dawn. The snow was falling outside. It was a white coverlet that blanketed the Place Vendome like a soft wet whisper. Coco stretched and smiled eyes still closed. She rolled over in the bed and opened one eye. In the cool steel grey light the Grand Duke was still asleep. The beautiful Russian’s scent had permeated Coco’s bed. She breathed in the aroma of tobacco, it mingled with his musky sexiness. He was delicious. She sat up in the bed and looked around the boudoir pulled her knees up to her chin and hugged them. A new lover; what could be more perfect this winter? She gathered the mink throw about her naked shoulders and arose like a sylph to ring for breakfast. As she passed a bouquet of African orange blossoms, roses and jasmine on the vanity she noticed how lovely the scent was as it mingled with the trail of musky masculinity that followed her progress from the bed. It hovered near her cheek daring her to kiss the air. Once breakfast was ordered she turned to enter the bathroom and a glint of light from the foot of the bed snatched at the corner of her eye. The Duke’s gorgeous noir leather boots were there where he had dropped them the night before, one upright the other having fallen over on its side. Coco swept one up in her arms and held it like the most precious thing. The strong masterly fragrance of fine Russian leather embraced her. The room seemed to be swimming in leather and tobacco and some faint spices from the Orient that emanated from one of her perfume bottles. “Odeur incroyable, merveilleux rêve...” she whispered softly. She dropped the boot and fell back into bed with him. She squinted and studied his profile. Then playfully she ran her finger along his imperial Russian forehead over his nose and lips down to his chin. “Wake up Cheri! I have an idea.” That Idea became Cuir De Russie by Chanel inspired by her brief love affair with a Romanoff on the run, the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich. Created in 1924 by master nose of the house of Chanel, Ernest Beaux this fragrance is a masterpiece of the leather perfume group. It opens like a rich silver box lined with plush maroon velvet. It is well-appointed and sumptuous in the smoothness of its first notes of African orange blossom and mandarin orange. These citrus accords are only momentary and they sink back to reveal the heart of jasmine, rose and ylang ylang supported by incredible spice. This all sounds very feminine and lovely but the over riding structure and genius of this fragrance is the persistence of the rich smooth polish of a great leather note. It is there from beginning to end. This leather blends in with the rose and jasmine to create a dominating masculine presence that somehow is not pushy but rather intuitive and clever. It is a seduction of insinuation that is in the end irresistible. It smells of a clean wonderful athletic body that isn’t intimidated by rough roughish edginess that comes with the musk. The dry down is clean as the birch wood note enters along with a taste of tobacco and bergamot. The projection is substantial and it lasts around six to eight hours. Cuir de Russie is most definitely for both men and women. Plane and simply put it is a magnificent scent. Cuir de Russie by Chanel Les Exclusifs is a classic from arguably one of the best noses ever to have lived. Legendary, iconic and timeless and as modern today as it was when it was introduced 88 years ago. FIVE PLATIUM CAMILIAS *****

Beauty can stem from one of two virtues: balance or contrast. Personally I find greater pleasure in dramatic beauty: in fragrance, where a tension between accords is pushed to breaking point and has the wearer constantly on edge until it settles down. Sheldrake's work is exemplary of this style, Ellena's, instead stems from his obsession with balance. In perfume, the effect is increased when the juxtaposition involves the "masculine" and "feminine" worlds colliding. Beaux's Cuir de Russie - 1924, reinvented by Jacques Polge (and Sheldrake) for Les Exclusifs - 2007 is an essay on this tension. The magic of this perfume is the fact that it surprises me every time I wear it. Cuir de Russie is a demanding fragrance, it is sophisticated and intellectual, more than any other from Chanel's line, save for n°19. And like her Green Floral sister, she requires time to be fully appreciated, revealing nuances from time to time to her wearer. Also like her Sister, Cuir de Russie, knows no gender, she is astonishing on both men and women. The fragrance bursts to life with Aldehydes and Linalyl Acetate notes (Bergamot, Clary Sage - I wish this were used more often - and maybe a touch of Neroli), which introduce the classical Floral heart of Jasmine, Rose, Ylang. The Florals are supported by a masculine Woody Balsamic Leather: Cedarwood, Birch, Styrax, Tobacco, Amber accord, Musk and a smidgen of Orris, just to maintain the balance between homme and femme. The Cuir de Russie accord, which character is present from start to end, is created through the Clary Sage, Jasmine, Orris, Styrax and Birch, which respectively bring the Floral, Indolic, Supple, Balsamic and Smoky qualities of treated Leather. I cannot help but ask myself what a touch of Mimosa and bitter Myrrh oil could add to this extraordinary perfume! But that is just my creative urge taunting me to tweak perfection. As for concentration, I own both the Eau de Toilette and the Parfum, both are exquisite, I have not smelled the Eau de Parfum recently released, but have not heard great things about it, apparently the fragrance feels heavy and looses it's shimmer. For other extraordinary Floral Leathers see Hermès - Cuir D'Ange (2015), Violet Cumin Leather: it is supposed to smell like the inside of an Hermès bag; also Knize - Ten (1925), for a Carnation Castoreum Leather, and Serge Lutens - Cuir Mauresque (1996) for its more Jasmine Balsamic interpretation. Cartier La Treizième Heure (2009) is an astonishing Narcissus Leather! I only discovered it recently, while perusing through Cartier’s line, but it left me in awe.

Cuir de Russie is a beautiful leather fragrance for a woman. The leather here is high-quality and silken to smell, and I just adore how all of the supporting notes really emphasise the facets of the leather itself, the butteriness from the ylang-ylang, the smoothness from the birch, the cleanliness from the jasmine, and sometimes, something that suggests a leather that is cracked and well-worn. The soft tobacco occasionally appears as a subtle puff of smoke. I can also smell a very indolic jasmine, especially during the heart, that, when combined with the leather, keeps my nose glued to my wrist for hours, and enraptures me, and I feel as though I am sharing the same ecstasy like many an artist before me, reveling in the sheer beauty of this enchanting perfume. The dry-down is a softer, slightly powdery version of what's described above. This is leather from start to finish on my skin, the scent of romantics and dreamers everywhere. Yes, it is simple. You will not find what you're looking for here if you wish for a perfume that is "more than just leather". But it was Coco Chanel herself who said that "simplicity is the ultimate sophistication" and that's exactly what Cuir de Russie is. The feeling I get is sophisticated, warm, sensual and evocative, as I often find my mind wandering. I see this scent often described as "cold and austere" and I will mention that I think this largely depends on skin chemistry. This smells warm and enveloping and alive on my skin. In addition, this scent becomes more and more beautiful with each and every wear, and to me it is a special perfume, one that is worth getting to know intimately as time passes. As with most of my favourite Chanels, I enjoy wearing Cuir de Russie during the winter months, for quiet, reflective time by myself, curled up somewhere keeping warm, so I can relish in it's beauty. However, because I feel as though this perfume has been worn by many a musician, painter or writer before me, I would love to pair this with my sexiest dress and wear it on a very cold evening to a jazz bar or an art gallery, because I think that this scent performs at it's absolute best in the autumn or winter. Soft to moderate sillage; longevity is for about 5-6 hours.

Les Exclusifs EDT is a very beautiful leather perfume. I was about to review it finally, so dug out the unused 2nd bottle I had ready to sell (who needs two vats of this stuff?) to make sure there were no differences. Batch code 3601 (2009), the other one is the one that I use, 0801 (2006? or 2016?). When I sprayed 2009 version (brand new, never sprayed), I barely recognised it! So now I am undecided on how to proceed (review-wise), as despite having a similar whiff, they are indeed quite different! 2009 is smokey leather, dark, tobacco (just like the tobacco in Sycamore), with a very subtle hint of orange blossom, a dash of creamy sandalwood underpinned by what i can only describe as an ambered iris. The top notes and aldehydes flew away rather swiftly (I even wonder if they are missing! just a blast of sweetness), then a beautiful ylang ylang. All overshadowed by a dominant stunning smoking slighty sweet dusty leather. It reminds me of an interior of an old room, rugs on wooden floors with chesterfield chairs and dark heavy drapes, sunshine on the wood and leather, furnishings permeating past perfumed and smoking occupants. The 2016 is brighter, a tonne more aldehydes, softer and so much more floral! with the distinct Chanel rose/jasmine/iris/sandalwood accord. Even too reminding me of vintage Jolie Madame. Reminiscent of Cuir de Lancome. It is outdoors, soapy horse saddles and soft leather driving gloves beside a powder compact. No smoke. Longevity is far less too. I am totally bamboozled. I know this is probably a moot review (if there is such a thing), as both bottles are long discontinued and replaced by the EDP. But thought it might be worth mentioning to anyone searching for an EDT. EDIT: decided not to sell either for now.

I don't smell Russian leather in Cuir de Russie. I'm not picking up any strong redolence of birch tar in its smoky form -- no kicking boots. This is more like its sweet facet with a touch of wintergreen. Indeed though, it delivers a feeling of high quality water resistant leather -- impressively supple and smooth like a handbag or high quality wallet. I also detect a fair amount of styrax resin. It's not listed in the note pyramid above but is in the description of the 1924 listing. I thought that listing was for the vintage so I felt my review for the recently discontinued Les Exclusifs EDT should be posted here. But this definitely smells of styrax, iris and carnation, also not listed here but included over there. Cuir de Russie rubs shoulders with Dior's Cuir Cannage and Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman. I like this much better as the iris is keyed down and the vinyl-like styrax isn't as sharp being blended well with carnation. This also feels more genteel with a classic tenderness. As far as any horsey or animalic notes go, there is an element of something like castoreum but soft and clean, not as raw as bearskin in say Antaeus (which by the way is another gorgeous Chanel). In the realm of iris based leathers, Cuir de Russie EDT comes out on top for me. It's complex, well blended, smooth and keyed in a tone that is seductive without having to express itself loudly. I feel the current EDP is more of a jasmine based leather. Being a jasmine lover and with the tendency for iris to turn a bit vinyl-like on my skin, I do prefer the EDP for its overall scent which is richer, but the leather accord is a lot quieter in the EDP and sometimes elusive. For its intended leather presentation, Cuir de Russie EDT is quite stunning.

I'm not sure which sample I have but I think it's the EDT because it's floral-forward in the areas of jasmine and ylang-ylang, following the note descriptions on Fragrantica. The opening is aldehydes, neroli, jasmine, birchwood, iris, and what I'm guessing may be castoreum giving a leathery tone. This is actually very similar to vintage Bois des Iles in the opening, just less honey and musk. In fact I find Cuir de Russie to not be a leather fragrance at all, not even a clean leather, but a floral-woody-musk. The drydown gets continually sweeter, less animalic but more indolic as the neroli shines, with a sparkly woodiness that is just beguiling. It is the same indolic dry down as No. 5 EDT. I'll have to find more samples to be sure of what I have, because this is indeed full-bottle worthy. It's a very fresh daytime fragrance, though quiet and thoughtful. Update: Obtained a decant of the modern EDT and it is, in fact, the same as my sample. CDR is primarily a musk perfume in my opinion, with leather taking an important supporting role. The musk is that love-it/hate-it female-cat-butt musk also used in Bois des Iles, but a little toned down. This is decidedly DISsimilar to Lancome’s Cuir de Russie. I couldn’t stand that one, which is an off putting leather that’s maybe a little oakmossy, while this is a different animal altogether, no pun intended. Overall CDR exudes class and sensuality in equal measures. Chic like a black pencil skirt. It is not loud, though never fully fades from notice throughout the day. I wear it most easily in summer.

Whoa. Cuir de Russie. Just whoa. I had the chance to sample this today and needless to say, it was pleasurable to get a sniff of this. If Cuir de Russie was created to be provocative, whoever intended it to be like that seriously succeeded. First whiff was leathery as expected, but not overwhelming at all. Smooth. Almost silky, even. Very comforting smell. Then not long after, the smoked woody scents kicked in. It took me by surprise but didn't scare me away. More sniffs and it turned very, very dry...the smoke was definitely there. Then it settled into a very mellow leathery, smoky, rather flowery scent. Very surprising combination. Very polarising, I imagine. Very Chanel, definitely. Overall, I'm not too sure how I'd describe this but one thing: it's lovely. It's jarring. It's confusing. It's provocative. Definitely not an everyday perfume and definitely not everyone can pull this off. I love it, though. All the perfumes in the Les Exclusifs are excellent in their own ways, and Cuir de Russie is no exception. If you love leathery scents you will LOVE this. If you love Chanel, chances are you will love this too. Too bad this comes with a hefty price tag...even heftier than the already hefty price tags usually attached to Chanel perfumes. Still worth it, though. Love, love, love Cuir de Russie. Timeless, elegant, independent and controversial. Because they do say that a well-behaved woman rarely makes history. Rating: 9/10

I was intrigued by a comment on CdR yesterday so I gave two generous sprays on my left arm ... just to be delighted, once again, and that reminded me I have to buy the recent formula of Dior Fahrenheit. The new Cologne version is already here. And yes, after two showers and next morning, my arm doesn't smell quite like Chanel No5, but the distictive Chanel core, hard core, is there, no doubt about it. But it is more like Antaeus than No5. Chanel has kept that trade mark floral heart even in the male scents. The change starts with Allure pour Home? perhaps? and it was gone forever from Chance/Bleu lines onwards. I have tried many a niche parfums and none, none of them has given me the pleasure, the complexity, extacsy, the long lasting amazimnent and delightfulness scents like Cuir de Russie, No5, No19, Cristalle, Shalimar, Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue all have to offer. What come a little closer are the Chanel and Dior Les Exclusifs, and even so, they don't bring the same depth and richness the classics do. They are in fact quite simple fragrances, but very good nonetherless. But it is all a matter of taste, really. That's why a don't write negative reviews. If I don't like a scent that's my problem, only. Cuir Cannage ... another favourite ... is in fact Cuir de Russie without the Chanel heart and more ... pastel ... I have it, I like it... yes I do, but, but ... not quite the same.

It is of my humble opinion that Cuir de Russie is the greatest scent profile ever made. Forget being the best leather, I truly think this is the most incredible creation of all time. I am lucky enough to be smelling an original release EDT from 2007, and I am floating in pure bliss. A leather this rich and regal evokes a tapestry of worn-in thick leather armchairs, heavy full-length curtains swallowing the walls, and fine silk robes fit for royalty - all sat gathering dust. There’s a slight soft smokiness from the birch, but above all remains clean and restrained by way of a perfect jasmine; in typical Chanel fashion. It’s drier, mustier and less soapy than the current EDP, but by no means challenging or unsavoury. People often say the Les Exclusifs EDTs were much stronger than the EDPs, but I find this to be very gentle, sitting close to the skin. And yet, in the air around you it seems to radiate impressively. Whilst I do adore this more than words can explain, and I would love to own this EDT, I’m really not sure if I can justify the prices on eBay. Especially when the EDP is still fantastic, and also for the existence of Roja’s Great Britain, which obviously copied this composition, but in my opinion built upon it into something even greater. This is a true masterpiece.

I have been testing wrist to wrist Cuir de Lancome and Chanel Cuir de Russie. This is my impression: the opening of CdL is more subdued, more leathery, sweeter where CdR is sharper. I detect no flowers in any of the two. CdL develops in a subtler way while CdR seems a rollecoaster ride, more exciting, more faceted. CdL is quieter and in the drydown much more feminine than CdR. All through its way I can sense no jasmine, no orris, no rose, no flowers at all in CdR while I can feel a very elegant way through expensive materials and a surely very alluring smell. It stays very close to the skin and when completely melts with you, the scent is one of the Seven Wonders of this world. CdL is much like CdR not in the way the two smells but more in the elegance, the old money feeling it gives you when wearing it. Definitely I would tend to be of opinion that were CdL much more expensive (the way CdR is) it would be regarded as its Chanel mate by collectors and opinioners worldwide. Cuir de Russie is a monument in perfumery and very rightly so, but in my very humble opinion I think that Cuir de Lancome should not be disregarded in haste. All the contrary. It would rightly deserve a monument as well. (For a more detailed review of Cuir de Lancome see my other review on its page).

A very good friend gave me a sample of this a couple of years ago. This same fragrance enthusiast once suggested to me that if I do not care for a particular scent, to not dispose of it because my tastes may drastically change. Great advise! I had virtually written off Cuir De Ruissie as I had quite an aversion to leather dominant fragrances, and vanilla for that matter. But the vanilla aversion turned into a recent full blown vanilla addiction! Now, today I have to admit I am obsessed, at least with THIS leather. So, "never say never" in this case gave me the most delightful, dare I say "fresh" scent experience I have had in a very long time. I found this fragrance to be breathtakingly beautiful. I did not find this to be "barnyard" like in the least, just sexy. My first reaction was, I imagine this would feel amazing in the colder months, in a warm beige sweater or nothing at all...But, it is summer here in Florida and it was glorious today even in the heat. The leather is like suede, the softest and most buttery imaginable, then perfectly harmonious floral accords rise upward ever so gently like a sweet breeze and lovely sweet vanilla undertones support the entire arrangement from start to finish. Never say never, you will not regret it!

It is stunning! Reminds me of the 2014 New Zealand Film What We Do in the Shadows by Taika Waititi (the original film, not the series, but the series is also very good). I can imagine Waititi's character, Viago, a 17th Century dandy smelling gloriously like Cuir de Russie and causing his beloved Katherine to cream her little panties. I sampled it side by side with Le Lion. I feel they are in the same family, but Cuir de Russie is the come-hither eyebrows to Le Lion's cranial fumigation. There's maroon leather that's all enveloping, fading to alternating wafts of soft florals and fecal-smelling vampiric out-breaths (I mean this in a most endearing way, I love me a bit of stinky). This is seriously boss-level scent, for a formidable powerhouse of an octogenarian woman, or stylish silver fox of a man. The kind of person who can wear Youth Dew with full hair and makeup on a 40 degree December day in Australia and not be out of place. Despite the fact that I am already of a rapidly advancing age (i.e. mature), I reckon I couldn't even attempt to pull off Cuir de Russie until at least another 40 years from now.... after I grow some glamour, and when I'm bitten by a vampire. But I am determined to give it a red-hot crack now anyway.

Chanel has the ultimate leather fragrance in Cuir de Russie; rich, smoky, subdued and elaborate. Truly elegant, utterly sublime! Cuir de Russie’s opening is very much typical of Chanel; crisp aldehydes, rose, ylang-ylang, iris and Grasse jasmine. The fragrance is soapy for the first hour with the orange blossom, and vetiver adding some ‘fizz’ to the florals, thereafter it evolves into a dry and sensuous leather powder. The dry down is complex and utterly luxurious. Here the finest leather, birch wood, vanilla and subtle tobacco meld to create a show-stopping scent reminiscent of buttery Hermès or Moynat leather goods. The rich smoky character of the leather on the dry down is lifted to ever soaring heights by the subtle florals, cool vetiver, and powdery orris in the background; together they create a fragrance that is definitively aristocratic. Good enough that I’d be happy never to wear a leather fragrance other than this one! Cuir de Russie is never floral-heavy despite its composition. Certainly a unisex fragrance although more a masculine scent than a feminine one. Suited to cool weather wear. Longevity is moderate-long lasting, sillage is moderate. 10/10

On me, this Chanel is so different than as described. The initial notes are just slightly leathery, the middle notes are smooth and buttery and what really surprises me - the drydown stays on my skin forever. And it's sweet! Not cloyingly sweet, but sweetly tempting enough that I'm wondering 12 hours later, what smells so delightfully sweet and warm? It lasts forever on me, the sillage is excellent and I am saving up for a full bottle. I've gone through one sample and I know the second won't last long. Cuir de Lancome, which I was prepared to love, is another story. On me it's loud and fractious, the drydown is a little better and the sillage is good, but I'll only be wearing it when I'm a little too mellow (or sleepy)- to smack me awake. For me there is nothing in the Chanel that even hints of the smell of horse manure, or a barn, and I grew up on a farm and enjoyed ample contact with horses, cattle, rabbits, chickens, ducks and geese, both feeding and cleaning cages and stalls. Perhaps the Chanel appeals to me because I love the scent of a hay or horse barn and the smell of newly hatched fowl? Fragrance is memory, and memory is mystery.

As much as leather is one of my favorite scents, of the (limited, I admit)leather-featured scents I've tried most have gone into plasticky-PVC-bondage leather rather than butter-soft leather gloves passed down from a chic female relative. Cuir de Russie, however, was love at first sniff. It opens with a dirty animalic note that's borderline fecal, but the soft, creamy, spicy florals seep in and smooth out this animal's shaggy fur until Cuir de Russie becomes this heart-achingly beautiful blend with an undercurrent of barely-bridled danger; a lady in leather and lace, a sleek panther at repose in a meadow. I feared the bergamot and mandarin might ruin CdR as citrus is my skin's nemesis, but the two are either nonexistent here or (more than likely) thankfully so well interwoven with the other notes that I can't make out their presence. I have the current Exclusifs EDT, and so cannot compare to past formulations or the parfum, but I can imagine those are as beautiful if not more so. For an EDT sillage and longevity are quite long, and I only regret buying the smaller EDT. Ah well, more wiggle room in my budget to save for the parfum!

I purchased my first Cuir de Russie yesterday and I am in love! It is a masterpiece of perfumery and Ernest Beaux is a genius. The fragrance is like pulling on a buttery soft leather jacket trimmed in plush lambs wool, so comforting and reassuring. Wore it for the first time this morning and had compliments from the guy in the corner store, the girls in the bakery and the lady at the coffee shop. Definitely money well spent; I only regret not buying the 200ml now! I have consistently worn the fragrance throughout our winter and it brings to mind the scent of a warm, hay strewn stable with the saddle and tack hung quietly in a corner but I recently wore it on one of our more hot Spring days and the fragrance warmed beautifully with the day but toward the end of the day I was strongly reminded of the smell of hot leather and sweaty racehorses pacing after a sprint. Not a bad smell but certainly completely different from the scent when worn in Winter. Absolutely love this fragrance and wouldn't at all be surprised if it quickly becomes my signature!

Cuir de Russi ( Russian Leather ) is one of my favorite les exclusives lately. I have reviewed it last September and still laugh to this day about my review but I have by no means changed my mind. I have read many reviews of this classic Beauty in the meantime and was glad to see that many feel similar about it indeed. The other day I came across this glorious review quote : "all I can say is poop , this stuff smells like poop , but in a really kind of good fascinating way . It's like the poop of some delicate animal who's only glazed apon a field of violets ,,,,". Another reviewer on here said , quote ",,,,smells like horses washed in soap" .... So my reference to horse sh€t in my previous review isn't all that unusual ......... The fecal aspect of Cuir de Russi is what makes this scent so utterly gorgeous. To me Cuir de Russi still smells like my uncles Horse Farm, fresh country air and iris soap , horse saddles and leather jackets, simply fascinating, warm captivating ,inviting and animalistic, with the great Chanel signature.

10/10 masterpiece. But the story was longer than this. I bought it wihtout really clear idea why, next weeks I regretted it, next months I regretted it. While in the meanwhile plounging myself into trying everything in the perfume industry. I put in on sale on Ebay, fortunartly at a greedy starting price and at a bad day, so nobody bought it. And then... Two or three days in a raw I was wearing it.... A morning after I woke up and reallized -- nothing would ever stand next to this perfume. It is acid, smoky leathery fragrance at the beginning, but after 1 hour it is 70% marvelous and quite green jasmin with fleur d'orangier, while keeping being sophisticated. It is a clear cut Chanel, nobody who knows Chanel 5 would doubt that. It is yet unique in its kind and unforgettable. It makes you addicted. Just go over the first month of getting to know it. Like a coffee when you are a child -- bitter and strange, but once you get it, unreplaceable.

This is the alpha and the omega of leather scents. In its current incarnation, it is largely a floral scent - but one which masterfully creates the image of tanned hides and green fields. In fact, I'm not even sure if it should be treated as a leather-dominated scent. Hell, I'm not sure what to call it. Bottom line - this is exquisite. There is no other fragrance quite like it. I like Knize Ten, I like Cuir Velours, I like Cuir Ottoman. But this is the only "leather" fragrance that I really love. One might argue that the true measure of a parfumier is the ability to faithfully recreate a smell or a smell memory using unrelated or even random materials. That's exactly what Jacques Polge (via Ernest Beaux) has done here - he has created the illusion of fine leather using a mad scientist combination of floral and woody notes. Even if you wear it only a few times a year, this one belongs in your collection.

OK. Give it time. Cuir de Russie defies time and needs time to be loved. At first I was less than enthusiast. Buying Cuir de Russie without being enthusiast? Was I crazy? No, I am a Capricorn and usually I am prudent. "Prudence is an ugly old maid courted by incapacity" says William Blake in his Proverbs of Hell. Well, you do not have to be prudent with Cuir de Russie, but PATIENT. If you do not love it immediately, do not surrender. If it's not love at first sniff do not think you have an ordinary taste. Allow yourself time and patience. Yes, I am a Capricorn and Capricorns are patient. Cuir de Russie is a masterpiece. Wear it at your home on a lazy day, a lazy afternoon while sitting on a sofa reading a book (Anna Karenina would do, but also Madame Bovary or even Lady Chatterley). Well, you will find yourself trasported in Wonderland. Yes, like Alice through the looking glass.