Underworld

The Underworld perfume is part of the initial collection of photographer and perfumer Christèle Jacquemin, who launched three fragrances in 2019 and, right away, was nominated for the Art and Olfaction Awards 2020, in the artisan category. Underworld was born through the collection of photographs that the artist took during frequent trips between Barcelona, where she lived, and Paris, where she went to study perfumery. The path taken by the shadows, until they reach the light, served as inspiration for this composition. The fragrance of Underworld brings notes of cumin, cardamom, and pepper, in the head; Carrot seeds, patchouli, and vetiver, in the body; Mimosa, tuberose, and frankincense, in the base. It is floral and spicy, bringing accords full of contrast and uniqueness. As soon as it is applied on the skin, it presents a spicy and aromatic output. The carrot seeds give a more earthy appearance, which gains even more reinforcement with the presence of vetiver. The patchouli note tries to balance it with woodier nuances, but I don't feel it was a successful effort. In Underworld, the floral base is noticeable from the beginning. And although tuberose is a flower with a polarizing tendency, when used in fragrances, in here it is the note of mimosa that dictates the rules. Its sweet and vibrant facets confront the cumin's spicy, then combine with the body notes and, then, exude together with the frankincense's smoke. Like Impermanence and Meandering Soul, the Underworld fragrance also has an Eau de Parfum concentration. However, on my skin, this one showed less projection. Still comparing, I believe that those looking for more differentiated fragrances will be satisfied with what they can find in this perfume. Underworld makes you enter into an unknown universe, even though you still live on this plane.

Looks like I saved the best for last; Underworld is my third sample from my discovery set this has a fresh, natural profile. The other scent from Christele Jacquemin I enjoyed was Meandering Soul. Both are unusual but oddly attractive. I can’t think of any other carrot dominant scent I own in my collection, and until testing this perfume I didn’t even realized I liked it. Like Meandering soul, I’m standing in an exotic kitchen but I can’t place where, eating fresh food and smelling the landscape, full of flowers, fresh air and herbs— I know that herbs aren’t listed, but Underworld has a spices and herbs feel. Ok, what are those spices and herbs: cardamom, pepper, fennel and mint, and of course what I’m presuming is carrot. Floral notes started to come out in the dry down. Base is more focused on powder and patchouli. I love this ethereal, mysterious place I’m transported too. Underworld is an appropriate name.

Christele's fragrances might not appeal to everyone, but it's hard to imagine that any true fragrance nut would overlook each fragrance's quality of composition. At least one full bottle is on the horizon due to the reasonable price point and uniqueness and beauty of each of Christele's fragrances (IMO, there's not really anything out there like them). I'm not one of those fragrance connoisseurs that can identify every note in a fragrance (other than the obvious amber, vanilla, tobacco, or patchouli notes), however, I can tell you that each of Christele's scents makes me happy - from each glorious spray to the interesting dry down. At least try the discovery set.

A hauntingly beautiful composition from Christèle Jacquemin. It's very pretty, yet slightly unsettling. Given the name, I'd have loved a little sprinkle of pomegranate in this to signify Persephone's link to the Underworld, but it gives more Hades than Persephone. There's a floral hint of her there in the base, but that earthy patchouli note is all Hades. Performance is great. It's long lasting with moderate to strong projection. The base of tuberose, mimosa and incense notes is spectacular. Perhaps it signifies the return of Persephone and Spring.

Stunning. So special. The carrot sparkles in the beginning and it evolves into a heady floral. The incense supports the heady tuberose and mimosa while patchouli and vetiver ground the floral punch. It is everything I love, blended beautifully. I appreciate how it wears so differently on the individual, my friend and his mother both tried it and it unfolded on their skin quite differently. This is an exciting characteristic of the fragrance, but because of that, I suggest that you do not blind buy :)

Opens up very medicinal. Stays herbal for at least an hour. After that, it goes through and interesting and complex phase in which the herbs and the yellow flowers mix. Spends the end of its life smelling like yellow flowers: mimosa and immortelle. Interesting, but not really my style.

"It makes me forget all notions and labels, forget all words and just feel what is has to say and what my body and mind perceive." High praise for a perfume, and so I bought a full bottle of Underworld based upon Miguel Matos' review. I'm no stranger to blind-buys (I love the thrill of the hunt!), but no blind-buy before Underworld has charmed me and fulfilled all of my expectations the way that Underworld does. Underworld opens with a crisp first spray of pepper and patchouli; in fact, I was jarred by its aloofness. But as it settles, the florals poke their heads into the herbal, sharp mix and the experience unfolds. When that happens, I cannot get enough of Underworld. I suggest spraying behind ears and between folds of skin to unleash Underworld's potential. In the heat of summer, it soars. Underworld's spice evolves into incense, green into earth, floral to vegetal. Underworld offers a journey that requires patience, but the journey is the reward. Patience is not my virtue, but Matos reviewed a perfume without mentioning notes, and I bought it. It was inevitable.

Seeing the notes i expected a more herbal medicinal smell, its a very leveld well blended perfume, in one aspect you have a very fresh subtle Cardemom spicyness and a timid pepper, and playing against the zingy freshness you have the earthy patchouli and surprisingly realistic carrot giving it a damp earthy feel , and dancing around from start to finish we have the florals, mimosa is the most prominent in the bunch and is around supporting all the other notes. Incens and vetiver is used as boosters to the other notes staying calm in the back. All in all its a very pleasing and well balanced perfume,there is thought behind the blend, its like a crowd pleasing designer scent in its timid smoot blend, but the notes and build is the perfumers personal story

Sweet earthy animalic juice... "Underworld" really reminds me of "Kiste" by Slomberhouse with its dark earthy animalic overpowered apricots. It has huge doses of hazy patchouli, apricots, some tuberose, cumin with a tiny peach nectar, & peach skin. I really wonder if i can detect most of those notes appears in here! i get allot of notes that aren't mentioned and i do believe that i am smelling huge doses of apricots and i believe it is mingled with a milky sweet notes (could be the tuberose). Can't detect much of pepper, or cardamom. This blend is earthy sweet and if you adore the gothica kind of blends, & "Kiste" then this is an alternative of that. Beautiful.

Wow I am the first review!! Incredible. Firstly I wanted to say how wonderful the discovery set's presentation is! They came in a beautiful card stock bag/box with a bow, with cards inside and 24 euros off a 50 ml bottle- so thank you Christele. Inside are the three fragrances in little glass, lidded bottles. This fragrance is the one I want I believe. It is very elegant and has the illusion of oud to me. It also feels vintage and expensive. I am having btrouble picking out the notes but loving the composition.

This totally reminds me of Tom Ford White Patchouli!