Dover Street Market

Like the previous reviewer, I am also surprised this fragrance doesn't have more street cred. For me it combines all the complexity, polished execution, and incensey warmth I love about many Comme des Garçons fragrances with an everyday flexibilty that I was specifically looking for. Mind you, by 'flexibilty' I don't mean that Dover Street Market is in any way generic. Even within the CdG line—which you'd think would have already explored incense/woody fragrance combinations to its, CdG's, limits—it stands out as unique. Many of the best CdG scents require a specific mood or event for me to find the right application, as where Dover Street Market can really be worn at any time, anywhere—though, admittedly, I doubt this attribute will hold up as it the weather warms up. I've been wearing it nearly every day this winter, changing things up occasionally with Wonderwood. It has a certain organic coming-out-of-hibernation vibe that would probably make if nice for early spring as well. As many reviewers have already pointed out, there is quite some shifting complexity here (see Mary-Jayne's and Na0's reviews below for an accurate description of what I mean). Along with the pine and pepper, I definitely get the citrus blast up front that serves as a bright wakeup, but dissipates quickly enough to not be much more than that. I love most of Comme des Garçons' incense-centric scents, and it's that pairing with fresh wet pine and juniper berries that really makes this scent what it is for me. It has the meditative qualities that are often mentioned in reference CdG fragrances, but I think of this more as a contemplative walk through a pine forest on a cold sunny morning, the snow on the ground and trees just beginning to melt. I live in a vibrant, bustling, but aesthetically drab city that suffers from monochromatic grey skies for 4 months out of the year, and this scent has become a trusted comfort and anti-misanthrope for me during those times. Some obligatory performance notes: I get good longevity on this. If I spray it in the morning it easily lasts until late in afternoon to early in the evening, so I'd say a solid six hours of good performance. Projection is what I would call 'intimate.' I'm not one for imposing my scent on unsuspecting bystanders, and I think DSM is appropriately a scent for you (pro tip: spray a bit on your clothes to indulge in a few sniffs throughout the day) and those with whom you're directly interacting.

Superb. Understated. Intelligent. Familiar yet far away. And still rather difficult to describe, even after 8 years. Those who know know and those who don't? More for us. But I only recently came back to this gem. It has very strong associations for me with the fellow I was with when it was released, it being his all-time favourite then & now. An artistic, mercurial, but successful type. To this day I know he keeps a bottle in his bathroom, one in his car, one in his office, one in his bag - the devotion is deep. So I had to go away from it for some years despite my own undying affection for its complex yet quiet beauty, sensitive grandeur, and stoic... warmth. The association has faded enough now in my mind to allow it to become enough mine. It's not powerful, it's not terribly long lasting. But all is forgiven on account of its affable, piquant, & handsome charm. I can't say it reminds me of Dover Street (nor the Market) itself much, per se, but it does conjure up cool wet West End pavements, the first maudlin North wind of Autumn, affection-worn wooden window seats... and induces a generally reflective mood... wanting for an afternoon fireplace, a pint, and a newspaper. Good stuff. ★★★★☆

What a shifting complexity ! O.o I swear, here was my reaction when I smelled it. "Ah, that's a peppermint/"pine" citrus one !"... *2 minutes later* No ! Rather an oriental incense ! *later* Whut ? It's a chypre now ? Da hell is that ?! And finally ... Ok, in fact, it's all 3 simultaneously ! Incredible ! Very complex, very deep, very intense. Hard to describe, really hard ! And you won't smell twice the same notes ! Hmm... Let's try to summarize it (It's not accurate, but it could gives you an idea) - Take agrums, add some pepper. - Lock up them with burning incense stick and fresh strong pine - And add a floral chypre-woody base. Result ? A lovely sort of warm oriental one, with a fresh citrus and pine, making it at the same time dry and cold. Blowing your nose ! With that, a floral-chypre typical background. You obtain an amazing eclectic smell. Magnificent feat to have succeeded to mix-up so different notes in a very consistent one ! I'm impressed !

Comme des Garcon are so impressive with their range of fragrances and Dover street market is no exception. Started out with thin top notes which deceive you into thinking this will be a linear citrus scent but then after the bergamot comes juniper and cedar. Then an aromatic mixture of pine/incense in the heart with a overiding amber accord from ladbanum. It's a quality outing, fresh and clean juniper/citrus vibes with woods & resin in the base. Minor criticism is that I didn't get the performance from DSM that I was expecting, longevity was not great on my skin but again I will need to test it out properly. Lovely smelling stuff though.

A very nice piney/spicy incense with juniper support. In the drydown, the main player will be a warm round labdanum, giving a sensation of sweetness (just a hint). Projection is average (at best) and longevity below average. Still, a great frag, but it may be redundant if you already own another "light incense" frag (like Lutens L'Orpheline, H&G Skarb or one of the many CdG incense frags: Black, Play Black, Zagorsk, Kyoto, Blue Encens, Laurel...) Should you like this one, I'd suggest to rush and get one on ebay, since it seems to be discontinued. Fall days, unisex, 25+