Emeraude Parfum

There was an incredible, very beat up, very dirty looking splash bottle of this at Goodwill. I didn't purchase it (maybe I still should've, I might come to regret walking away), but I did open the stopper and smell it. So, this review is *not* comprehensive, it's more like a series of observations by a passerby. - The citruses were most certainly off. It had that indescribable, but unmistakable smell of turned perfume (probably because it's exposed to so much air). I had never looked into this perfume at all previously, and knew NOTHING of the notes, but I distinctly recognized ylang ylang (plus YY has been on my mind lately due to an interesting article by Beth), it's such a standout note and unique floral. *FASCINATING* because it's often listened as a heart note (this is why note pyramids shouldn't be taken as gospel), yet should absolutely be a basenote. When I studied the essential oil, it was considered a basenote on most websites to do with EOs. I say this, because the YY in here was incredibly well-preserved even if some other notes weren't. It had a dusty floral, incense-y, warmth. I couldn't tell you of what, beside vanilla specifically. It was nice, but still sharp due to some of the spoiled notes, which was unfortunate. I also purchased an unspoiled bottle of Shalimar at that moment, which eclipsed my appreciation of this, I admit. The Shalimar smelled lightyears better. But I was able to discern something very, very deeply resinous lurking underneath. It (yet again, surely was partially owing to it being turned) actually smelled foreboding and intimidating...like something haunted in the depths of this old thing 😂 It's funny, but I do mean this in all seriousness. It bordered on creepy and when I inhaled deeply, it unsettled me. The resins had a spiritual edge, as they sometimes do. This is an interesting perfume and I hope to experience it again at some point.

I got a brand new, sealed Coty Emeraude pure parfum splash mini for a steal on eBay. I have no idea what year, but it has a gold cap and gold lettering. I listened to a review for the cologne and focused on more amber color over the real green so mine is amber colored. I can definitely smell strong citruses at first and a similar vibe to lemon cleaner. Kind of harsh, but other vintages are so much worse. It is definitely soapy as reviews have mentioned for the cologne, kind of like an herbal shampoo, but it’s also kind of sparkly and green reminding me of Sprite. The dry down is very nice definitely gives me shaving cream vibes with a hint of lavender and spice. I have never smelled Shalimar to my knowledge, but have heard that it is a spice bomb! This is not or at least my version. Wonder if the comparison is because both perfumes morphe and change? Or both have beautiful dry downs. I don’t know, but plan on purchasing Shalimar when I get my tax refund! I can hardly wait! I really like Emeraude, it’s a unique, comforting, familiar scent that is not screechy like many old time fragrances and leans masculine. Edit: I like to occasionally just sniff this one out of the bottle which I feel like I can’t do with many vintages. This one is smooth! Strange that people are mainly voting for night time! My mini bottle could be off, I suppose. I don’t feel that this is deep or spicy enough for night time!

I definitely see the connection to Shalimar--super bergamotty top, rich florals in the heart, coumarinic and vanillic drydown--but this feels more "green" than Shalimar, and I don't think it's just the power of suggestion of the name. In fact, it feels like a riff on Fougere Royale--that original coumarin-lavender-geranium-oakmoss structure but amplifying the bergamot top and balsamic, resinous basenotes. In many ways, it also smells similar to Coty's own Fougeraie au Crepuscule, another "dark fougere" that clearly takes that Houbigant's base. Shalimar, to me, goes leathery and super vanillic where Emeraude stops short. I admit I don't know what this smells like today, and I know it's been totally neutered. The vintage parfum is sumptuous and lovely.

I finally bought a VINTAGE bottle of the perfume and oh my, it is incredible compared to the more recent stuff I had before. This is rich, spicy, resinous, vanilla with some lovely patch and jasmine. I have fallen in love with it all over again.