Diorling

In my endless research on vintage diorling parfum, I reached some conclusions. I would love if other fragrantica aficionados would confirm, complete or disagree with my conclusions (ok, they are more guesses than conclusions, anyway...): I'm aware of 3 different bottles of diorling parfum. 1) the amphore, that I believe it's the older one, but I do not know if it carries the original & unreformulated fragrance only, or it was used for the 80's reformulation too. 2) the classic parfum bottle used for all the other dior fragrances that has an oval section & a crystal inverted cone dauber, that I believe carries the original 1963 fragrance 3) the newer but still classic parfum bottle, this too common to all other dior fragrances, that has a rectangular section & a gold inverted cone screw cap that I guess was used in the late 70's on, to carry the reformulated diorling. I found a 1fl.oz bottle of the 2nd bottle, the one with the oval section & the glass dauber. sealed box, sealed bottle with untouched onion skin & gold thread. no leaks, no evaporation, a full bottle. ain't I a lucky guy? In a previous review on ELdO RIEN I was mentioning, quote, the infamous diorling in its original formula, that in the '60s was a commotion but to me smells only très chic & bcbg, like chanel's cuir de russie did in the '20s. unquote. I forgot to mention that I was talking about a very vintage EdC, leathery but no edge at all. you can imagine my surprise when I opened the parfum bottle & the expected blast of leather... did not blast at all. & I have to say thanks god! I do not need any other leather fragrances: when I want a comfort leather I choose cabochard, knize 10, tabac blond, monsieur couturier & signor vivara. when I need flowers in my bowl I choose miss dior (the real dior's leather) & jolie madame. when I'm in a ur-vamp mood I go for scandal & bandit/brigand. If I switch to a stay-away mood I use ELdO rien, CdG garage or bulgari black. If I feel really macho, like a blue balls ape, a spritz of balenciaga ho hang black will do. after reading LT on diorling, I do not remember the exact quote, saying something about being too dyke to be used by your girlfriend in the first meeting with your parents, I had a vision of a female friend of mine with whom I attended a new year's eve party: I was in black slacks & a vintage silk men's pucci shirt. she wore a man's tuxedo like an unholy dietrich... but I have to say that LT, whose books I love, seems to have a really scarce familiarity with vintage perfumes, to the point he raised many time the legitimate suspect that he never had access to one whatsoever. so, back to diorling parfum. forget the lesbo butch thing & forget the leather, there's no leather. a hint of it, says my brother (the nose) but we both agreed that diorling is a hyacinth fragrance, a very blue one, with a weird, disturbing bergamot note that plays hide & seek with the hyacinth & gives to the whole composition a whippy & witty edge. "it reminds me of... " said my brother. " patou's vacances" I completed. without that buttery coccoina glue paste smell (do not believe that coccoina simply smells like marzipan or sweet almond. it smells like coccoina, an unavoidable & unforgettable experience). yes. diorling reminds me of vacances. & the verdict? while we were flabbergasted because diorling is NOT a leather, & cannot win a pankration match with scandal, it's utterly splendid. there are so few blue flowers perfumes so good, so carnal & fresh at the same time. the bergamot plays the role of the whip, as the leather did in vintage shalimar. it is not an easy fragrance, & not a comfort fragrance or a gracious fragrance at all. is it classy? yes. is it sexy? no. is it frigid? well... no french kiss here; just a kiss on the forehead. is that the english way of an english fragrance? no sex please, we are english? a bad joke & that's all? sorry there's nothing remotely english in diorling, in strictly term of fragrance notes: only the very french, smooth, pale & ravaging watercolors of monet-like hyacinths, while the bergamot's mot d'esprit floats in the air whipping your wits: mot d'esprit. it is what englishmen call humor. is this the englishness in diorling? yes: the darling -ing. back to the EdC old bottle, but I cannot be sure if it's from the '60s or the '70s (Is it possible to roughly date dior's bottles & boxes?) I only smell at first a good, polite but generic leather, a bit unchallenging, than a slightly metallic hyacinth appears & when the leather fades that's when things get interesting; then the leather appears again with a soft, fresh saliva smell & I loose interest. it was unfair by my part to put diorling EdC in the same bunch of chanel's russian leather EdC; chanel's RL actually IS a real leather head to toes, not a 'let's play leather for a moment then go back to monet' as diorling EdC does. diorling's parfum disappearance is another massacre of good perfumery: while diorama was gorgeously refomulated (I have a vintage diorama parfum amphore) & I can easily live with the les creations de monsieur dior's reformulation, I cannot live with the last diorling reformulation: it is true that the lCdmD diorling reformulation is edgier to the point of being disagreable, no hyacinth taming the HUGE, urinous bergamot, but it is such a shade of a shade of a memory of the original diorling that it is actually ANOTHER fragrance. so please change the name. call it diormetro, diorboulot, diordodo... but not diorling.

Darling Diorling! What a gorgeous leather you are! And I’m reviewing an early 60’s Eau de Cologne so I’m not getting the full strength! Diorling opens in husky shades of lilac clouds. There’s freshness from bergamot but what stands out immediately on my skin is violet, though not listed in this minuscule note list, but it’s there. I sometimes wonder if it’s just a side effect of the leather, kinda like a precursor to Fahrenheit. There’s ozonic freshness and green buds bursting, with their slight cucumber dew. I’m not a fan of violet or violet leaf, but the contrast here is gorgeous. Lilacs as well I can sense. The leather doesn’t take long to come front and center. This is old school isobutyl quinoline just like in Jolie Madame, but it’s rawer here. Wilder. So much for its British associations! The heart unfolds slowly and tenderly a white flower blanket. Soft flowers as if seen through a hazy mist, tender jasmine, soft roses, a canvas of blue and purple blossoms hindered even smoother by the patina of leather. Leather that keeps turning darker and more animalic, reaching a point where it smells just like Mona di Orio Cuir; Edmond’s disciple, Mona did get influenced by the master, and her wonderful Cuir pays a wonderful homage to her teacher/mentor/friend, whose influence by Paul Vacher can be smelled in his later creations. From Paul to Edmond to Mona! Slowly but steadily, a blanket of oakmoss and musk, castoreum certainly there, starts to engulf the leather, taming it. And underneath, a soft floral powderiness softens all remaining edges. Skin that smells of floral talcum, leather and moss, pierced by the hushed breath of animalic notes. As an Eau de Cologne, Diorling opens loud but starts getting quieter as the hours go by. There’s not massive sillage but with a generous application Diorling shines brightly for at least 2/3 hours before becoming gradually a skin scent that lasts for the entire day. Longevity is amazing but it of course lacks the volume of an extrait. A pristine bottle like the one I own feels and behaves almost better than modern edt’s. Better actually, not almost. As the scent starts disappearing from skin, what’s left are the last remnants of leather caressing my senses. A gentle powdery feel makes it smell elegant to its final breath, just like a made to measure Christian Dior outfit. Stunning! I’d love to get my hands on a vintage extrait, but even in EdC I’m amazed by this beauty and its stunning glow!

By the slimmest of chances I got a sealed half ounce of the 60s parfum and let me tell you about it. I believe that others have failed to mention how this has a watery quality to it; sweet much like how the old Nina Ricci perfumes used iris along with their herbed floral garni. It’s also a blue floral; I’d second that, and a wonderfully made one. The comparisons to Bandit and Cabochard only recall how they smell when one is at quite a distance but where the former are quite bold upfront, Diorling on the other hand is a bottled softness of how suede and hyacinth work well together. Others mentioned the exorbitant prices are unwarranted because there are better ones; well, perfection is boring and execution of accords in Diorling would be the least of its accomplishments to mention. The smoky leathery aspect unfurls as soon as the florals dissipate, there’s also an ashen quality to the smokiness after all has subsided. Truly a wondrous journey from the narcotic florals up to how it waxes darkness. I don’t even agree with Luca Turin saying this is dyke for women. I’m wondering if he had a chance to smell the vintage. Lastly, I’d like to point out that it’s a floral chypre and not a cuir chypre. Much in likeness as with her sisters, leather is only a touch-up as with Dioressence and Diorama but not the focus. Best used in autumn.

Diorling is refined and dry like Cabernet Sauvignon. In spite of its initial green sharpness and bergamot sparkle, it reveals that it is gracious, a plush velour robe, a hyacinth-scented suede, rosy highlights, and a hazy jasmine. It has a polished lacquer texture, a Pontiac Bonneville leather interior, an orris root patina, waning lilacs after a rain. It's the lit cigarette in a boomerang-shaped melamine ashtray, on the nightstand, a thin plume of smoke, a lipstick print on the filter, an accelerating heartbeat. Vacher had a light hand on the iso-butyl quinoline, not a Cellier smack, no acrid bite, more blended in a labdanum reduction with peppery nasturtium petals. It verges on improper, sweating underneath its collar, but keeps its poise, dying to let go of its restraint, but holding fast, while garments crease and the urge is near impossible to ignore. Diorling is the elegance on the surface of a stirring latent sexuality, never giving into sleaze, but always on the precipice. It is its mulchy, musky husk that keeps it down to earth.

Elegance and refinement in one word: Diorling. This is a dry soft leather chypre. It feels like a second skin. It reminds me of Jolie Madame but less floral. The opening is slightly sharp with bergamot, but it lasts just for few minutes. The white floral notes: jasmine and lily of the valley elegantly come in after 15 min. This composition is really smooth and I would associate it with white velvet. Perfect, innocent, gracious. A chypre that is so smooth and suave... this is art. I have never thought a fragrance would bring tears to my eyes. It sounds pathetic but it is true. The dry down is soft and subdued with a hint of patchouli and few woody touches. Of course, the leather stays in from the beginning to the end and is unforgettable. This chypre doesn't scream or slap. It just whispers and caresses. I also find it sensuous even if it doesn't include sweet notes. It is the teasing leather note that creates that feeling. I love many leather fragrances but this one will always be special for me. It is my mother's image. 9.5/10

An intersection between Dior and Paul Vacher. This vintage chypre, embellished with flowers and trimmed with leather, has a characteristic aldehydic opening. Bergamot fades away before bitter green base notes of hyacinth and a matte soft nostalgic leather lining take over. The delicate powdery feeling lasted for a while, mixed with the musty smell of decaying moss. Dry smoked vetiver and patchouli are used to stabilize the central structure, and the musk-animal fragrance softens the sharp part of Diorling. Its edges gradually blur over time, and the base fades to gray-white color. Diorling quiets down and keeps a low profile. Diorling is a bit similar to Miss Dior. My first impressions were that they were tough and gentle. The olfactory symbol of New Look, French elegance with British style. Analyzing its genetic sequence, I will see Miss Dior, Jolie Madame, and Cabochard. Very beautiful, as charming as Cabochard.

I have long enjoyed the current formulation of Diorling, re-imagined by François Demachy in 2012, but had not experienced the original until now. I consider this one of the greatest leathers of all time, and in its vintage formulation it is utterly heavenly. Composed with Dior’s love of British elegance in mind, it is redolent of finely crafted leather gloves, well fitting as it drapes over riding saddles freshly cleaned with saddle soap. The leather is mild, austere and restrained balanced by a beautifully clean white presence of jasmine. Smelling this now, makes me realise just how impressive the current formulation is, as the difference is only minimal; mainly the leather which is simply more leathery. This is a must for any lover of great leather perfumes.

I got the to sample the original parfum formulation and this is to die for. On my skin, it opens with a slightly animalic leather rapidly followed by bergamot and bitter flowers. It dries towards a sweet white floral scent and after you get more of the dry moss mixed with the freshness of vetiver. I don't get why this does not exist anymore. It's a vintage style but it's so well made that i can't shake of the thought of having an elegant men or women wearing it close to me, hopefully. Shame, shame, shame

This is a relative (but certainly not a total redux of) Piguet's Bandit. It has the same greenery and muguet meets isobutyl quinonline leather of Bandit, Jolie Madame, and the like. This one feels a bit more overtly smooth and floral than either of those aforementioned scents, like smelling a luxurious, elegant, white floral soap through a leather filter. Perfection!

I've just bought it on Dior website. A collector !!! Leathery and chypre scent.

This (EdT, I think) gets off to an interesting start as a softly soapy, rosy, slightly aldehydic scent with an odd, dark undercurrent that quickly disappears. I suspect that my sample is the newest version, since there’s not really much in the way of leather in it. As it dries down, I smell a dry, dusty vetiver along with some slightly powdery notes, so maybe that’s the latest version of leather. It then sweetens into a lovely, dry chypre-like scent with lots of sillage, which lasts for an hour or two, then fades away so that by 3-4 hours it’s gone. This version of Diorling is nice enough, although I’m not impressed with its longevity. I think I need to try the vintage version, for comparison.

Simply stunning. A chypre done right, where a heavy dose of oakmoss and leather does not turn sour and unpleasant, despite the fragrance lacking any overt sweetness. Gorgeous leather note with a hyacinth bergamot top. Wonderfully balanced blend. Very, very elegant and timeless. The new version did a good job capturing this even if it isn’t identical. Pure class in a bottle, and quite sexy in an intelligent way. Review for a vintage parfum.

Oddly uric note for the first couple of minutes, quickly turns into strong dry spicy soap and suede. Very 90s for a mature woman in that it reminds me of trailing through expensive boutiques of the 90s with my mother. Vaguely reminds me of Opium. On the whole I think I prefer Opium. Not sure Might grow on me

I tried this on today (5.16.12) at Saks. The top notes are beautiful. I detected the bergamot/rose/jasmine. The dry down on my skin is leathery, but the patchouli/musk/moss/vetiver softens it. The base notes in the dry down are nice, 3 hours later, but the leather is a tad masculine.

Correction, I tried Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling 2012 for women, which is of a different composition than the above. Sorry about that.

Original formula - Nozzle warning!! Open windows and fresh sheets. Vintage and classy yet delicate

I guess I should have thought more about purchasing a sample of this, because it is a chypre, and chypres don't usually work with my chemistry. Sure enough, I smell old books, moss, and just 'fusty, musty, dusty' all around! I think Hermes Kelly Caleche is a better leather-based perfume for me (although it doesn't have enough of the leather note). Just to let you know, this review is for the original vintage Diorling, not any reformulations or newer version.

This will surprise a lot of perfumistas, but Diorling was not really a hit when it was launched! Shock, horror, how do I know this, very simple, my aunt worked for Charles of the Ritz (under licence for which Dior perfumes were sold) as a beautician, and I remember the launch of Diorling, because I was given several samples. I liked it immediately, it seemed young to me, and quie different to my mother's Miss Dior. It was green and fresh, modern and so I thought , a little new wave. I was eleven at the time, but already in love with the beauty business, and all my aunts friends worked for other beauty houses, Guerlain, Lancome, Arden , and some that are forgotten today, Lentheric and Dorothy Gray. I had and still have a photographhic memory, and knew every detail of the product ranges, I could even correct my aunt. I suppose it was no surprise that a few years later my first job was on saturdays, you've guessed it, working on the beauty counter, and I was in heaven. Although only a saturday salesperson, I was sent on courses to London for new product training,it was a great opportunity. At that time, Dior sold four perfumes, Miss Dior, Diorama, Diorissimo, and Diorling, plus a fresh cologne called, Eau fraiche Dior, as well Edt, edc, and dusting powder in all four perfumes. Dior di not do a beauty range but sold a range of lipsticks , les Rouges Dior. A little later a range of nail enamel was added (les Vernis Dior ) and I was duly sent to London for my manicure course. The nanicure was launched in the Vidal Sasoon salon,and suddenly Revlon had a rival. Our best sellers were Miss Dior, and Diorissimo, Diorama was slower (people said it smelled like Rochas Femme ) and Diorling even slower, it was too different for these rich matrons. And in years to come they were both discontinued, which was sad, as they were my favorites, It is hard in the 21st century to realize quite how glamorous the beauty business was in those days . We stocked Dior colognes and edt.'s in up to one litre bottles, as did many other perfume houses, they were called" pour le Voyage " no weight allowance for these gals! I went on to train as a beauty therapiist, trained at Arden, but worked for Guerlain under their european boss, Comte Henri de la Briere,but that is for another day. I stil have an unopened Diorling extrait in its fabulous Baccarat bottle( two ounce ) maybe some day I will open iit, and go back to those halcyon days, Hope I haven't bored you, Jennifer.

I wish I could create a good review like everyone else but I guess I don't have all the smells in purfume notes in my head like everyone else does. I found mine, along with other old ones at a yard sale $5- for like 10 of them. The splash w the cool houndstooth label. it was 1/2 empty & still smelled decent for a vintage 60s purfume, I have a huge collection of avon ones & this smelled alot like the same as when vintage purfumes sit for a long time. But come to find out. The more my collection grows the less alike they all smell. & they arent all expired like I thought. Its just the way they liked their purfume to smell back then. But I've been lately. Just putting a random older purfume on & seeing how it evolves or dissappear through the day. Description: this one was a pretty neat (see, m not very descriptive w my words) smell. a light soft peppery somewhat a 1st sniff I smelled a scratch n sniff pickles (when I wore it last week I didnt smell that part but im leaving it in in case others noticed it on 1st too) but that turns immediately into a very clean non headache wood oak smell. Not as much leather but i think the mossy dark patchouli part is what others think is leather. It drys into a soft tissue paper scent, i didnt smell any flowers like some are describing. Usually old vintage purfumes turn a cloying heavy smell but this one aged very well & is lighter & luckily didnt expire. Very comforting & warm soft non offensive not loud. I thought a comparison would be organza but thst has way too much Vanilla this one is more like a chanel no 5. Paloma Picasso, jovan woman, if I had to categorize it. Maybe thats the chypre mossy earthy smoky, but not bitter, the kind that turns into soft powdery, yes the tissue paper scent

Just to clarify, since there are many versions: I'm trying the pure vintage parfum of Dior Diorling from a tiny TPC sample, one of 13 floral aldehydes that I'm testing out. So far my favorites are Deneuve, Robe d'Un Soir and Sortilege. This one is the most powerful so far. Those fashion illustrations from the 50s/60s come to mind: high cheekbones, upswept eyeliner, long gloves and gorgeous voluminous coat, a turban and attitude. Not what I'm wearing today, but it sure feels like it! Diorling has a strong "perfumey" attack and demands to be noticed. Not the one from today when you're choking in a cloud of sweetness, but the old-fashioned variety -- Grandma's fashionable friend has her perfume on! Maybe that's the Bergamot and Hyacinth, but it's piercingly sweet and citric, I almost want to get away from it. Underneath is something much softer and more alluring -- gentle rain after the hail and lightning has swept through. Once this lady has made her entrance, she relaxes. A warm, sophisticated floral blend takes over the citric note with a faint undertone of soft powder (in a crystal and silver box of course) and something a little dry and sharp hovering under the flowers (is that this leather note I keep hearing about?). She may be relaxed, but she's definitely not passive. I"m left with a strong impression of balance and sophistication -- an allure that is based on self-knowledge, intelligence, and the experience of sorrow. Yes, this is madame not mademoiselle and she's had her heart broken but is open to love. And Diorling is indeed a silly name for this perfume!

I am reviewing the vintage EDT that I sampled from StC. This is a characteristic '60s floral type, focusing on 'sharp hyacinth' florals rather than powdery. Diorling's primary 'sharp floral' accord is very similar to other perfumes of this era, such as original Zen by Shieseido, Fidji, Norell, Masumi, and Infini - all of which came along soon afterward. A leather scent? I don't think so. Somewhere along the line, I believe an influential - and imaginative - perfume reviewer has mislabeled this scent, and then the power of suggestion leads people to rhapsodize about the leather in Diorling. I'm familiar with all the vintage leather fragrances and I just don't detect any leather ingredients (Isobutyl quinoline or birch tar) here. I find it to be a very pretty '60s floral with some aldehydes & bitter greens, that clusters very close to several other florals of this era. The main accord of bitter florals will be familiar to those that are acquainted with perfumes of the '60s and early '70s.

This review is about the new version of Diorling. Bought today and love at first sight. Well, I am fan of this kind of perfumes so I am very partial. The opening is very flowery, very elegant and little by little the flowers leave space to woods and finally leather paired with a little bitter note. But both the woods and leather are tamed by the initial flowers which have not gone away but only hidden. I can't tell about the original Diorling, if somebody told me this is the original formula I would believe without hesitation as the spirit of the scents of that time has been totally preserved and not destroyed as in other reformulations. I am happy that Diorling reappeared again after years of oblivion and I do hope also Dior Dior will resurface soon.

Over the past few years, I have been in the mode of discovering the House of Dior. It started with Dune and I have made my way through all the moderns including the line of Poisons. Now I am working my way back to the older Diors. I began with some vintage Diorissimo (floored by its simple beauty). My next project will be Diorling. Before trying any of the perfume I was charmed and won over by the "cheeky" line of names - Diorella - how fun! Diorissimo - how chic! Dioressence - likely ...Diorling - darling! What a creative, productive and progressive era ~ Will update later...

I've read elsewhere that Diorling is very like Bandit and if that is true then I will certainly buy it. I adore Bandit as a leather, it's the perfect one, no girly florals as in Kelly Caleche, no powder as in Jolie Madame, and no cigar butts, as in Cabochard. Bandit is modern, but it's not easy to get. Dior is right that there's a gap in modern perfumes for leather. Don't know why that should be, because leather is so right as an expression of liberated independence and chic. I do hope that Dior can come up with a winner. PS I agree that the name is cringe-making.

I just came across this looking for a review of a Christian Dior perfume that I remembered from some time ago, but could not remember the name. I would like to thank Audrey2 for her fabulous review!!! Wow, what a life... in another life this is what I would like to have done. Imagine!! Lucky you to have an unopened bottle of what sounds like a beautiful perfume. I think I may well have smelt this back in the day, but do not think I have seen it recently. Has it been discontinued? If not, I would love to buy it. Sounds delicious.

Apparently the name Diorling was a play on Darling. Christian Dior adored all things British and this was his take on how the upper classes pronounced Darling - so it's not such a bad name after all! You can read all about it at the Dior at Harrods exhibition which runs until April 14th 2013...

Audrey2. That is a fascinating piece of history! I wonder, do you remember a silk scarf that Dior launched with the fragrance? I have one. It is beautiful. It is a lovely pale green with a sketch of the Diorling image enblazoned across it. Was it a gift with the perfume I wonder?

Vintage edc reviewed. Hyacinth, leather, oakmoss, jasmine. Iris, an abundance of elegant florals. A warm animalic base supports it. Its not modern, its a 1963 Rolls Royce. Those that can appreciate beautiful vintage things will not be disappointed. Perfect for fall

I wish that I had managed to get some that had not gone over. It absolutely stinks, and the ebayer that sold it should be ashamed of themselves. What a shame. I bought it because I enjoy old perfumes, and the other folks on here have some great reviews. Gah! |-(

Audrey2 what an excellent review!!!you opened a window to a beautiful world to me!!!thank you

A sample vial and and I was hooked. Full bottle on the way.