Dune Esprit de Parfum

(Bottle c. 1995) Of the three Dune varieties, the first originally released back in 1991, this Esprit version is probably my favorite. That's not besmirching the other two, the EdT and the extrait, which are glorious in their own rights. Esprit is such a perfect name for it. Compared to the EdT with its world-swallowing gases arching through the air, and the extrait with its dense closed-off nature like a star collapsing in on itself and becoming infinitely dense, the Esprit sits beautifully in the middle. It has the "spirit" effect of swirling through the air like - but not violently like - the EdT, while still remaining dense and complicated like the extrait. The characteristic hallmark opening of all three Dune perfumes is present in the Esprit, that thick and chewy saline marine accord that smells like fetid seawater that has been left to its own devices for so long it might have evolved life, accented by sour citruses of orange and lemon. But after the dry down where the marine element just seems to off-gas into the ether, something magical and transcendent happens: lively, radiant, swirling and swooning, beautiful florals break through to bounce colorful light and energy around you. To my nose, it seems Dior might have achieved this effect by increasing the volume of the fruity-citrusy and effervescent qualities of ylang-ylang and a less-indolic jasmine. There is a tension here, a massive one, just like there is in all three Dune perfumes, but this is a beautiful tension, like you're in the middle of a light show full of brilliant, rich, beautiful colors but they are all shades of red, orange, and yellow designed to mesmerize you but make you just a little bit afraid. The dense core-of-a-planet heart of spicy patchouli, woods, and vanilla is still there but at a greater distance; the softer qualities of amber are given more volume and strength, rather than earthy amber-sweetness and muskiness of the extrait. Mesmerizingly tense is the best way I can describe this perfume. You cannot, and you won't want to tear your eyes away, but you will be on the edge of your seat the entire time.

I sold my golden bottle and gave it one last sniff before sending it on its way and immediately regretted selling it. Doh. So I bought a vintage Dune, lovely, but not Esprit. Eventually I found another (newer) bottle of this amazing Dior creation (2001 batch, could even be 2011?). There are differences, the most pronounced one is this seems to have less of the Samsara-type synth sandalwood, perhaps more florals, but that could be down to age rather than formulation. Dune Esprit does indeed resemble Dune immensely, but is sweeter, smoother, less herbal, more easy going. It is all at once smooth, creamy, salty sweet, dry, woods and floral. hot saunas and salty skin. And a midSummer smell, when you walk through the flowers, fragrance from the blooms alongside a woodsy, green, acrid scent of hot sweet vegetation. I noticed this Summer smell, as I wandered the woods daily in lockdown, rampant nettles and brambles encroaching the pathway as I approached the large meadow beyond. To me, this bears a resemblance to Safari Parfum, various notes are shared. And discovering that Dominique Ropion was part of/behind both fragrances back in 1990 and 1991, comes as no surprise. Will treasure this perfume alongside vintage Dune. And I recommend both to anyone wanting a break from today's offerings. The perfumes of yesteryear are fast becoming "something else". And the modern aromachemicals being used today really do highlight where perfumes have journeyed in the last 30 years. How I marvel at the perfume houses who keep many vintage beauties in their collections still today and hoorah for that. If only Dune Esprit was still available. edit: Far dry down is the stage where it veres away from the original Dune, and more dominant powdery chocolate base notes of vanillin patchouli sandalwood come through.

13. december 2014 Thank you for adding this one! This is THE BEST concentration of Dune for me personally. I own Dune in EDT vintage, several bottles of pure parfum/extrait vintage and esprit de parfum and i use mostly the esprit during summertime. For me this is not as harsh and loud as the pure parfum (too bitter for my nose, but still amazingly beautiful) but more smooth and soft, yet very potent. This is the most perfect scent of hot sand and summer, not fresh but still very summery. The gorgeous bottle and most appropriate name for the scent, which is very rare, especially nowdays. Hope to have it forever in my collection, and will probably not stop using it ever! Suitable for all ages and occasions. By the way i have it in 30ml, 50ml and also 75ml, so the information provided above is not complete.

a multidimensional DUNE, a masterpiece with a criminal projection and longevity. More complex, with a hint of vanilla and (seems) fine chocolate, for sure the best version of the real DUNE. There is no niche fragrance that can express today such a beautiful and complex composition and performance. I am amazed and very happy. Andreea, thank you so much for this precious gift, I love till the Moon and back the old Dune but I never expected to discover such a complexity and beauty as I can feel in this spectacular version. Beside Dune SUN; another masterpiece and, sure, vintage Dune, Esprit is a truly treasure, lost in a cold and "all the same" world of fragrances nowadays. 10/10

I’ve read somewhere in the Dioressence page that the esprit de parfum sparkles and that I find with this too. Dune has been attributed to be melancholic because of moss and sea spray, reminds one of being ruminant; of what was. But this one comes to life with a more pronounced citrusy opening and a warmer base made saltier by the metallic twang of aldehydes. With that being said, I find that the base has more moss to it, it’s beautiful. I must say as well that the use of mandarin with amber, vanilla and moss has made such a wonderful canvas for Dune. It’s deeper, warmer, livelier and thoughtful. It’s a winter beach at sunset.