Oud Ispahan

I was genuinely speechless when I smelt this, it is truly an astronomical work of art and the best Oud fragrance on the market in my opinion matched by only Xerjoff Alexandria ii. I smelt LV Ombré Nomade and was very disappoint as it is too harsh and sharp making it unwearable, lacks depth and complexity and the oud interpretation didn’t even resemble some of the superior Oud interpretations closer to how Oud is meant to be from other brands, however; Dior oud Ispahan reminds me of it except a much much better version that is smoother, more well balanced, smells better and has a more realistic oud accord. Rose, Oud, smoke, amber resins, saffron, musk and creamy sandalwood blended into an opulent powerful concoction that smells of pure Middle Eastern luxury done in French way which is truly wonderful combining both styles. This is the pinnacle of perfumery. Extremely natural based making this smell very smooth with a lot of depth and complexity. The Oud here is what’s truly breathtaking this is just how Oud should smell very funky, dry, earthy, slightly dirty and animalic yet blended to be smooth and palatable. This is the closest thing to real Oud you will smell and may trick many people into thinking it’s real Oud. This Oud accord also reminds me of Roja Amber Aoud but this is much more intense and smells much deeper to me and just better done with a more accurate approach to Oud it has the same animalic facets but combined with more common cleaner Oud facets the waxy, funky dry smell which is familiar from other designer ouds. The different facets here combine to create what I believe is the ultimate Oud accord so wonderfully complex, the resinous facets, leather facets, animalic facets, woody facets all perfectly balanced by one Oud accord . This is a better fragrance than Amber Aoud (Roja is great but is mainly marketing) that is just as good quality for a lower cost while having more mass appeal I would not say this is mass appealing but it is more mass appealing than other oud fragrances on the market. It’s extremely hard to get an oud fragrance with this amount of versatility I would say it can be worn for any occasions however it is better for special occasions, night time, formal occasions and cooler weather. The talent of Francois Demachy is exceptional as the way this fragrance is constructed is so well done you can tell that a lot of time and effort has done into creating something truly wonderful that will leave its mark on the perfume industry. So expertly well crafted, very precise and complete smelling. This epitomises creativity and the wonderful artistry of perfumery this truly is an embodiment of the undoubtedly, classic French style of Dior given a Middle Eastern influence. Sensational. Apart from the main Oud accord this fragrance has a very smoky dryness which gives it a pleasant deep complexity and an Amouage-esque very middle texture which is very resinous and I enjoy a lot paired with a sparkly saffron which creates this inexplicable allure all rounded off with sandalwood and iso e super to create a creamy dusty smoothness enveloped within a strong yet delicate and effervescent enveloping rose and a sweet amber. All these wonderful facets create a full deep rich fragrance. If you love Oud fragrances this truly is one to try as you will be hypnotised by the seductive, elegant, bold aroma of pure class projecting its presence and evoking a feeling of confidence making people question what on earth the incredible scent trail was as the wearer enters a room. Dark and mysterious yet warm and smooth. Much better than other boring overpriced scents like ombré nomade don’t waste your money get this instead you will be much more satisfied. Performance 18 hours on skin Days on clothes Strong projection fills a room Strong sillage trail lingers really well and sticks One of the best performers. Overall just incredible this is the pinnacle of perfumery. The best oud fragrance out there and a top 5 overall of all time in my opinion. 10/10 masterpiece

What strange notes are on display here! These notes, except for rose, certainly does not reflect what is given from the perfume itself. A trip to the website itself will give you three notes: Labdanum Absolute, Laotian Oud and Rosa Damascena Essence Accords, and Caledonian sandalwood. I have a 7.5ml sample of this current formulation. Scent: 7/10 Very Good If you've read some of my reviews, my ratings can be quite harsh, especially towards proclaimed oud scents that don't actually feature real oud. Oud Ispahan is probably the only fragrance that I'll settle without natural oud. Those who have smelt varieties of oud oil will immediately recognise the synthetic rose-oud accord here, but this one smells fantastic. Wild yet refined, daring yet sophisticated. Many Dior fans have been wondering if this current formulation has differed from the previous. Based on the comparison of my current 7.5ml sample and the 2016 250ml bottle that I own, I would say that there is indeed a jarring difference. While the scent profile remains the same, and the drydown is almost indistinguishable, it feels as if Dior became aware that their previous Oud Ispahan was too avant garde for the public, and decided to dial up the rose note and tone down the barnyard Laotian oud note. The result is a more floral, less bombastic variant of the original, but nevertheless both project the same aura that should not leave returning customers disappointed. Longevity: 9/10 Excellent The lifespan for this fragrance is so annoying long that you might feel uncomfortable for the night, since you'll be wearing it to sleep. I'm saying this after including two rounds of shower. Absolute beastly. Silage: 7/10 Very Good I am very used to bombshell-type fragrances, and Oud Ispahan is something that I'm comfortable of projecting. Although the projection suffered a little with the new formulation, I think this suits the refined nature of the fragrance better. Versatility: 5/10 Okay Unless you're like me, who doesn't give a single fuck about what others think, I'd advise caution in wearing Oud Ispahan with tee-shirt and jeans. It just doesn't go well with casual outfits, although this might do if you exude the appropriate demeanor and take care of your clothing. This is one to wear in colder weathers - it'll stings noses if you're wearing this to a football match, for instance. Overall: 7/10 (Great)

I have mixed feelings about Oud Ispahan. The opening is spectacular, hitting your nose with a bold incense, woods and rose combo, the kind of opulent scent profile you'd expect in a Middle Eastern palace. When I smell some of the other oud/rose classics, I can pick out those notes individually, whereas Oud Ispahan is blended so cleverly and smoothly using a piercing balsamic smokiness to create a unique, captivating scent. This addition makes it smell much more complex and masculine than Oud Satin Mood, which I find slightly too sweet and powdery. For these first few hours, this perfume really succeeds in giving you a luxurious experience worth its price tag. However, all good things come to an end, and this is especially true for this fragrance. After 2 hours on my skin, the scent slowly transforms into the 'piss' smell that many others are complaining about. The oud is more than likely to be the culprit here, and for those more acquainted with its funky, earthy smell, the dry down may turn out to be a non-issue. I don't particularly enjoy it and the stark contrast between this and the beautiful opening nearly gave me whiplash the first time I noticed it. Despite this, Oud Ispahan is still a masterpiece in my books and absolutely a must-try. I so envy those who can tolerate the dry down, therefore I plan on forcing myself to smell it until I like it. In the meantime, my makeshift solution is spraying on clothes, as the funkiness doesn't develop as much, and it retains its amazing opening. Performance is fantastic, it's designed to be an attention grabbing fragrance for those confident enough to wear it. I'd recommend a maximum of 5 sprays for outdoor occasions during the colder seasons or evenings to produce the best results, but if you have that 'go big or go home' mentality and you're in a country where this scent profile is appreciated, I would completely respect overspraying this. Pricewise, Oud Ispahan does provide the sophistication and performance I'd expect and it manages to shine in the already well esteemed Dior private line, so I can't complain too much. Smell: 7.5/10 (opening: 10, dry down: 5) Performance: 9/10 Presentation: 8/10 Value: 6.5/10 Overall: 8/10

Oud Ispahan contains the most singular, extraordinary, and exquisite rose note I have encountered in perfume to date. This rose is something I have been seeking for a long, long time. The opening volley of this ‘fume is smoky, resinous, and frankly - quite dark. Once warmed by the skin, however, the reddest rose ever opens up and fills the whole room. This stage, in my opinion, was far too brief. The rose is huge, bellowing, monstrous, divine, staggeringly beautiful for all of ten minutes - and then, an arrow of pure oud snakes in and seemingly strikes the floral heart of the beast. It’s the only analogue that fits - I was perplexed after all that sound and fury of the rose acting like it was out for blood suddenly and immediately subsiding into an intimate skin scent with little projection. The changeling shades of oud ultimately prevail, silky and animalic, only faintly underscored by the echoing shadow of that giant rose rounding everything out with a velvety purr. From that first hour onward, Oud Ispahan becalms itself into a quiet whisper on my skin, a precious ember vaguely emitting a snap of smoke and velvet powder when I move. I’m not getting anything anywhere near barnyard in this at any stage, but if you struggle with the multifaceted expressions of ouds, maybe skip this one. (It *does* say Oud there, right on the tin.) I’m baffled at the performance. With that loud of an opening, I expected something a little more sustained, but the skin scent is more than pleasant enough to compensate. My mini came complimentary with purchase, but not sure if I would spring for a full bottle. That rose note might be stunning enough to warrant it. This is opulent, pleasing, harmonious, and all too brief, and I’m pretty sure that’s not noseblindness talking. (I’ve gotten louder, though perhaps not *better* performance out of the Hermessence line, for what that’s worth, and I’m not an oversprayer. This was observed after a small dab on each pulse point in the crook of my arm from a small splash bottle.) Beautiful and experiential and haunting. If only that rose lived a little longer.

I tested the original Oud Ispahan at the beginning of my oud journey. It’s a grand fragrance, resplendent with rose, florals, oud, smoky sandalwood, and resins. The sweet rose pops out first, a honeyed rose like a flower that has just fully opened, and it’s the flower, not the flower plus pieces and stems that some other rose fragrances sport. As the rose decays, rich oud (but not fecal, IMO), myrrh, resins and florals begin their dance, their melodies intertwining in perfect harmony until one by one they drop off into a bass note of something old and leathery and musty, something that lasts forever and doesn’t wash off—at least in the original formulation. And that’s why I didn’t buy this highly respected Oud fragrance early in my journey. I couldn’t get it off. I sprayed it one night before a choir rehearsal, showered the next day, noted it was still going strong at about 6 pm, scoured my skin once more, went to choir and still smelled it. And the guy in the tenor section with all the allergies started sneezing up a fit, so I sped to the bathroom and scoured my skin three more times. I couldn’t buy something that pungent, so I passed. One spray was deadly! Then, re-reading the comments below, I took a gamble on the new formulation, and I’m glad I did. The smell of the 2018 bottle is about the same as my older sample, surprising since the note pyramid is so different, though it doesn’t burn my nostrils the way the original formulation did. And it decays away into a pleasant combination that isn’t going to assault your friends, acquaintances, and loved ones. I’d estimate it’s ~25% as strong as the earlier version which gives you a lot more control over your dosage. If you passed over this fragrance previously, please try again. You might be very happy with the new formulation. (Note, the Dior boutique in my city still has a 2014 bottle on display for testing, not the 2018 version they’re stocking. Shame on them! I’ve learned to check the vintage of what I’m sampling compared to the vintage of what they’re selling anywhere I go. There should be a law!)