Bitter Rose, Broken Spear

I'm happy to return to sampling the D.S. & Durga niche brand and begin the Hylnds collection, and Bitter Rose, Broken Spear is definitely among the more appealing offerings from this quintet of fragrances based on notes breakdowns. It's a burnt woody rose, reminiscent in its woody resinousness of Bowmakers, which is mainly based off an acerbic woody resin itself. Here, rose is added to the mix, so it's not only burnt, lacquered woody but also smoldered flowers. It's another level of complexity from Bowmakers on the one hand, and on the other, a simple deviation or change in direction from Bowmakers. To its name, I wouldn't say that the element of rose is actually bitter, or that the smoky, woody, or resinous angles the fragrance lend bitterness of their own. Rather, any brightness from the floral side is supplanted by the darker elements, and while rose is a main player, it's nonetheless under a cloud of darkness. Performance is quite good, with much projection coming from a light application on the wrists of a 1ml sample vial, and longevity suggestively high given the limited diminution of the fragrance over some hours. Despite it feeling slightly redundant with Bowmakers, this might be something I still pine for, even at $180 for a 50ml. My collection is replete with rose, but this is certainly a different use of rose from anything I own. 8 out of 10

This one goes right into the "successful blind purchase" category. From the Hlynds collection of DS&Durga Bitter Rose Broken Spear. I'd say the most masculine take on a Rose perfume. Many would argue it's not even a Rose fragrance, and I agree. The Rose is a minimal touch to the composition. I like to categorize my perfumes into various families. This one goes on the Dark/Medieval brews list. An aromatic, bitter Rose is thrown in the pot with thyme and wildflowers, put on high heat, and left to brew. The armory chamber is dark and lit by only a few oil lamps. The oil smell permeates the air and mingles with the scent of incandescent metal brought to heat by blazing embers. The blacksmith shines his newly forged swords and plates, occasionally checking his rose brew and enjoying a whiff. Dark, with a powerful red, hot metal accord, as well as a lamp oil smell (if you ever played around with one of those, you know how it smells like), and the shy aromatic, spicy rose to pop in and out, honoring the perfume's name. If only the rest of their perfumes from the regular line would achieve this level of alchemy, quality, and originality. A unique perfume that is worth checking out. IG:@memory.of.scents

I like this - it's fascinating and unusual but still wearable. I try to avoid reading the marketing blurbs for fragrances because they're typically ridiculous (and this is no exception), but this really does remind me of damp winter woods in northern Britain. It comes across far more sour than bitter on my skin. The metallic, earthy rose is simply beautiful and complex. A mossy smokiness lasts for hours without being acrid. I won't pay $180 for a perfume, but damn, I love my sample.

If I could scent the sorrow, that falls on the shoulders with blackest veil of velvet consolation melancholia, it would reek of a mouldy cellar of the deepest crypt. Only source of heat is smouldering ember, yet it's not warm and inviting, but one that will soon turn into ashes. The rose, almost faint and mute is all about to wither in this cold underground cell, only to become a part of thick dust and ash.

It feels like I sniff around pine sap in the pine forest with burning smoke. Sometimes it smells very fresh and dry, and sometimes it's like I am on the mountain covered with fallen leaves partly wet partly rotten after rain in late Autumn. I couldn't catch any hint of rose, but when dry down I got remain of Noir de Noir by Tom Ford faintly.