L ́eau d ́Iris

L'eau d'Iris is the iris blossom soliflore of my dreams. It smells like the delicate flowers of bearded Dutch iris, specifically the periwinkle blue and white variegated blossoms with the yellow tongues. I cannot smell any other notes except for a crisp green floral note that might be the neroli. This is gorgeously old-fashioned and reminds me a perfume my grandmother used to wear that I never knew the name of. It is soft and airy, a delicate scent to match its inspiration. The overall effect is truly beautiful.

A powdery iris, no sweetness, a cool fragrance, a bit musky and more powder from the violet. It is pleasant but not enough additional interest along with the iris to make me want it. Musky, powdery, slightly musty from the violets yet with clear iris. Too retro smelling for my taste. This smells like something straight out of the 19th century. I like a more modern take on iris.

This creation reminded me immediately of the nineteenth-century-style violet soliflores--only with iris! I'm thinking of Borsari Violetta di Parma and Berdoues Violettes de Toulouse, along with others. The composition is somewhat watery in the sense of light--not aquatic. In fact, perhaps I should say that this fragrance is airy, not watery. But it's also not powdery, à la Prada Infusion d'Iris. The natural iris here is beautifully showcased, and there is not a strong woody presence, although I see that sandalwood is listed in the note pyramid. L'eau d'Iris is definitely less woody than many of the niche iris perfumes I've tried. This creation is truly for the iris aficionado who wishes to breath in the beauty of this flower without a lot of other distractions. This is neither an oriental or an earthy iris, and there are no carrots or vanilla here anywhere here to be sniffed! I noticed that at the DSH website the perfumer has indicated that the focus really is on the flower not the orris root. I had read somewhere else a while back that the iris flower is not used in perfumery, but that must have been false. Good to know, because I love this scent, and this perfume is now on my wish list.

I have Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver on one wrist and DSH's L'Eau d'Iris on the other. The Malle is more powdery, the L'Eau d'Iris slightly more citrus-y, but otherwise they're remarkably similar. The Malle is actually coming off as synthetic in comparison, though for that very reason its longevity and projection are stronger. At least over its briefer lifetime, I may prefer the L'Eau d'Iris over the Malle, though it's not really a fair comparison. I'm testing in early September, and I usually wear L'Eau d'Hiver in winter for its ability to transport me to the languorous height of summer. It will be interesting to try these two head to head in colder weather and see how the L'Eau d'Iris holds up then. This is a lovely fragrance on its own merits, despite its resemblance to L'Eau d'Hiver. That it can worthily stand comparison to one of Jean-Claude Ellena's creations is a tribute to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's talent as a perfumer.

L'eau d'Iris has a violet-iris sweetness in the opening, cool & refreshing - almost a cucumber/melon-like hint to it. As it dries down it reaches an earthy, mildly powdery, retro take on Iris. Lady-like and stiff, something almost reminiscent of what would be worn by someone in the royal family's hierarchy. A cool, refined little piece of history, something elegant & simple - and something "different" for iris-based 'fume collectors! Somewhat mysterious & otherworldly, as well (Or at least iris has that effect on me, personally!) Best uses: Warm spring days, falling down Alice's rabbit-hole.