Mata Hari

Perhaps one of the most enigmatic figures from the turn of the twentieth century, Mata Hari is a name that evokes intrigue, mystery, sensuality and (more than anything else) the term "femme fatale". The woman who became known as Mata Hari (her exotic dancer name) was, in fact, NOT a double agent for ANY country in World War I (she was cleared by the French government in the mid-eighties); and was used as a scapegoat by those who were jealous (or appalled) by her strong free will and capricious lifestyle. The movie of the same name (starring Greta Garbo) was based on some historical facts, but largely fictional; while being very entertaining. The ideal of Mata Hari (a sexy, dangerous double agent, who just happened to be an exotic dancer and courtesan, crossing nations and gaining the trust of two governments) is indeed a wonderful one. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has captured that essence very well here. Elegantly constructed, using a myriad of notes to emulate the complex persona of Mata Hari while remaining entirely natural AND using "outlaw" ingredients (something of which Mata Hari herself would be proud) to create a complex and stunning parfum... To even begin to describe this perfume through individual notes is folly, as it has been skillfully comprised of 39 notes (four of which are botanical blends). Careful, if you look too close or analyze it too deeply...you miss its intrinsic beauty. The best way to experience this is to apply and let her mystify and captivate you. It is like watching an exquisite odalisque dance provocatively, revealing just enough to keep you interested without becoming vulgar or trashy. It is obvious that there is a lot going on here, but this perfume is not "muddy" or thick and strange like many "naturals" can be. It is multi-faceted and exceedingly gorgeous, creating a work of true ALCHEMY: turning the "lead" of many common raw ingredients into pure (parfum) gold! This begins with a thick accord that is at once, ever so slightly, spicy but fresh and fruity. Sharp sweet and succulent citruses, their blooms and dried herbs are woven into a gauzy chemise type of robe that is colorful and catches your attention, as it billows gracefully, with its intensity and its sheer beauty. This is the costume in which she is dressed when she takes the stage. As the layers come off (to an undulating beat and haunting melody) she begins to show more of herself yes, but keeps some hidden as well, naughtily tantalizing you. The heart of Mata Hari is a blend of sheer floral femininity, dry spices (that hint at her inner "fire") and oriental blossoms (such as orchids and champaca) evoking the mystery of the Far East. Here she is open, every aspect of womanhood is being displayed: light innocent beauty, carnal sensuality, loving sweetness, amazing strength, a rather sharp (yet sassy) wittiness and a cool green earthiness...she is divine!! She is all women, she is ALL woman...she is Mata Hari and there will never be another. The dry down (aka The REAL Mata Hari) is actually very masculine, yet sultry. It reminds me of one of those independent strong-minded ladies who was not afraid to barge into the "Old Boys Club" and have a brandy and cigar with the men! (Unheard of in those days) Warm, woody, musky, smoky and resinous; she let's it all hang out, unafraid of judgement and able to hold her own and outshine them all. It is a true chypre in how it unfolds from fresh to floral to earthy. Despite the obvious metaphor to the actual historical figure and an exotic dancer, do not let this review make you think this is just for the ladies! NO WAY...this perfume has more "balls" than anything on the market today, men's OR women's. I have sniffed many perfumes based on historical times, persons and eras, I can say (without a second thought) that DSH has captured the ideal, the persona and the essence of not only Mata Hari and her aura, but created something that is utterly unique, stunning and "to die for". This perfume is haunting, it is amazing, it is...MAGNIFICENT! Sillage: Good Longevity: Amazing Overall: 5/5 A True Masterpiece Available only in perfume and perfume extract, this is definitely strong, but never overpowering. It projects just enough to give that "come hither" aura to it while making others go: "Wow! What smells so good?". It lasts for a very very long time and with each successive sniff of my wrist (and there have been many!) I am always greeted with some new note, accord or aroma to savor. It has many sides and many faces and takes multiple wearings to really understand and appreciate it. This review is the fourth time I have worn this, and I have only scratched the surface here, folks! My 1 ml sample is going to be gone soon. I look forward to getting the 5 ml Perfume after the holidays (what better use for Christmas cash?) and eventually (should it still be available) acquiring the 15 ml Perfume Extract. I have a very large collection and my tastes change from day to day, I can say; however, that this is something I will keep coming back to again and again. I am enchanted, I am under its spell...I am "hooked"!

In one review DSH's Mata Hari was called a masterpiece. The more I wear it the more I think that to be true! First I bought a small sample, then a 5 ml flask and then I just had to buy the 15ml. I can't get enough of it. I am always surprised and pleased by the progression of the fragrance as I go through my day. It amazes me that Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was able to include so many notes and accords and still have everything work so well together as each element reveals itself individually and collectively. Brava!

This is a wild fruity chypre. It is complex and difficult to describe. The name is appropriate. This is sexy in a bold and direct manner. Quite addictive. Some similarity to Jubilation 25 (bright fruity opening, tarragon, davana, cumin, and skanky chypre base). I am sampling the voile de perfume concentration. Sillage is strong compared to other DSH perfumes. Longevity 6 hours.

The opening of this perfume definitely reminds me of Femme by Rochas (the original version). This is a gorgeous rich and complex boozy/fruity chypre. As it dries down it becomes more tawny and it has a lovely rich ambery glow. There are so many notes it seems a bit OCD to try to find them and name them, but suffice to say this is the essence of sophistication. It has that scented leather gloves note I love in Femme, but it's more modern - a bit more amber, maybe slightly woodier but it's soft too, it's not loud at all, or a hard hitter. It has to be tested on skin, even on my cool slightly dry skin this warms up beautifully which it doesn't on a test strip. There's no vintage face powder note, nothing too 'old-school', but it does have a proper chypre - that tingling dry/green twiggy note, which blends so beautifully with resins, but it's sweet here and rounded This is very smooth, sillage moderate, longevity ok.

this starts fruity and animalic, followed by a spiciness. definitely has a vintage feel. i think i am getting florals, that are non-descript except for champaca. also, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, benzoin, civet, patchouli and musk. spicy, fruity, floral, animalic. dries down quite beautifully! glad i finally got to try this.