Memory & Desire No.1

The thing that always surprises me about Memory & Desire No. 1 is that although it smells heavily carnation to me, carnation isn't one of the notes listed. The DSH website lists them as: Top Notes, Apple Blossom, Peach, Sweet Pea, Violet, Middle Notes, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Kukicha Tea, Orris, Base Notes: Ambrette Seed, Australian Sandalwood, Civet, Hiba Cedarwood, Siam Benzoin, Sumi Ink, The top notes come on strong, particularly the apple blossom, and the rose and orris follow quickly. But the base notes are what carry the fragrance, expecially the civet, cedarwood, and benzoin. Somehow this combination is carnation on my skin. I can't remember how long I've worn this, but probably since 2006 or earlier. Somewhere along the line, Dawn apparently decided not to date any of her fragrances, at least not on the website. Like all of us when we're in our 30's and 40's, we thought we'd just REMEMBER. Ha! She has an active inventory of at least 120 fragrances, probably lots more, and like anyone else, she has discontinued some over the years. The mind boggles. Remembering correctly when any of them came out is nearly impossible. But Memory & Desire No. 1 isn't just a fragrance with an intriguing name; it really is fabulous. A rich, gushing floral that is either rose or carnation (or both) with lots of dark and lively cedar-y base notes. Sold in a variety of affordable bottles, so you can afford to buy more when you use up a bottle.

I've been testing some of my many DSH vials, a few of which are in the process of evaporating away... This one, Memory & Desire No. 1 is scrumptious. I love testing perfumes from this house, because DSH uses lots of natural stuff (as in: plant life was sacrificed in the production of this perfume). This makes it very fun to try to guess what's in the composition. The first words out of my mouth were "iris + cedar"--one of my favorite combinations! So I might say that this was the luck of the draw, except that nearly everything produced by DSH is good, if not excellent. This creation is now on my wish list. I cannot claim to smell most of the other zillion notes listed in the pyramid: Ambrette seed, Apple blossom, Australian sandalwood, Bulgarian rose absolute, Chypre accord, Civet, Hiba cedar, Kukicha tea, Iris, Peach, Siam benzoin, Sumi ink, Sweet pea, Violet, Woody note No matter: this perfume smells great! Probably because I love ambrette, sandalwood, rose, chypre, cedar, kukicha tea (well, at least to drink!), iris, peach (as in the original Mitsouko), benzoin, and violet! Iris and cedar: a perfume note marriage made in heaven!

Memory & Desire By DSH-A Pleasant surprise. A very mellow and comfortable fragrance. Relaxing and calming. Oakmoss is the dominant scent. Oakmoss is wonderful on it's own, here the Floral notes give oakmoss a tranquil air. Ink lends a narcotic edge, Ink is an addicting scent, it triggers euphoric and crystaline visions and excites the senses. The white floral in this floral mix appears to be Gardenia another narcotic-like aroma, whether natural or synthetic it captivates the senses and together Oakmoss, Ink and Gardenia take you on a fragrant, euphoric, magical carpet ride. This fragrance, like any drug, is fleeting and has you begging for more as you reach for the bottle to apply and apply and reapply until you have expired your stash and become like a zombie searching for another fix. This fragrance is so addicting and yet so fleeting that one finds him/herself sniffing harder and harder for another glorious whiff only to find that one is merely chasing after the wind. I have found that fleeting perfumes like this are enhanced in longevity when I, liberally, spray a pocket square or handkerchief with the fragrance, They seem to last longer on fabric than on ones flesh. Memory & Desire No.1 is a beautiful, intoxicating and delicate perfume, sadly, like a butterfly it has a very short and fleeting lifespan. Longevity is ultra short. Sillage is Gone With The Wind. Season is whenever you can catch it. Thank you Moonsparrow for this lovely, High, of a fragrance.