Sienne l ́Hiver

Sienne l'Hiver is truly a masterpiece: original, well blended and long lasting. Together with Bois d'ombrie Bertrand made a pair of twins for Eau d'Italie. Those twins that don't look (smell) alike but you can tell from miles away they are so. They definitely share dna. My only concern regarding Sienne l'hiver is its wearability. I haven't been able to think of any occasion to use it without feeling I'd be bothering others. It is too one of a kind in a bizarre way... like a work of art only enjoyable by specialists. I feel tempted to describe it (the olive smell, the herbal vibe, the extreme coldness...) but I have been going through my small sample for 2 years now and still find it awkward. Amazing but detached, aloof, unreachable. It's definitely a fragrance I'd love to have for a perfume fair to show the world the wonders of fragrance, what these masters like Bertrand can create... but as a personal scent 100ml would stay unsprayed for decades. I love it but wouldn't wear it.

I have legitimately tried three of hs fragrances wanting to like each one because of all the hype surrounding him as an artist... but once more I'm slightly disappointed. This particular fragrance captures the grey moodiness of autumn unquestionably and successfully so, however it seems entirely inappropriate for anything outside of a novelty candle or sent for a home or apartment. It has that "typical" niche quality about it that makes it wearable only by those that are aiming to be unique, however it lacks the smell of a well-crafted fragrance worthy of a master perfumer's signature. Bitter, grey, somewhat depressing. 3/5 I'll stick to Nicolai, thank you.

Sadly discontinued, one of the first fragrances that really lured me into the world of niche. Ormonde Jayne Evernia reminds me of Sienne l'Hiver a bit, but Evernia is significantly warmer. Sienne is the coldest fragrance I have ever smelt, it is the body temperature of an anemic vampire in a stone coffin deep down in the damp and dark forgotten crypt of the Duomo di Siena. It's sinister, unforgiving and truly gothic. No warmth, no future and no hope. I love it so much but it's like the Cures' Pornography album, you must be in the right mood to listen to it otherwise it will become unbearable and dangerous for a simple human being.

Sienne l'Hiver (Siena in Winter). This one is definitely unique. I get loads of fern in this composition, which reminds me of my grandparents' garden. Indeed, this one is quite woody with a refreshing tone of violet leaf and some hay to give it a countryside feel to it, it is quite green. For me it is quite linear, which is great. The longevity is average, about six hours with moderate to soft projection. It is one of the better Eau D'Italie fragrances that fits the season of Spring perfectly, which makes me me think why is it called Siena in Winter? In any case, I do recommend trying it out, it is a delight to wear it.

Despite its winter description, I get some lovely fresh flowers at the opening, almost rose-like. But it soon does settle into chilly, smoky, olive tree with salt air, even a hint of dill pickle, and still some lingering florals. I can definitely get behind the imagery of a charismatic old European city on a winter evening (or maybe a cool autumn evening). Has some similarity to the feel of Passage d’Enfer, with the cool stone and lilies and incense. Beautiful!