Zadig

While there are slight similarities to La Nuit, which to me is outstanding and incomparable to anything else, Zadig resembles mostly those animalic and honeyed chypres of the 70’s that also had an everlasting freshness. Deep, woody, leathery and wildly exotic but with a fruity freshness that permeates all layers. Not cheap fruity like today, but that juiciness of ripe fruit, mature and heat scorched but irresistibly delicious once bitten. Most similar fragrances to me are Vu, Azzaro and Mila Schon. Also, Eau de Zadig is simply the edt version, not a different fragrance. The same case with Metal-Eau de Metal, Calandre-Eau de Calandre etc.

I found a 15 ml bottle in a thrift store for $10. I got it home and put some on, and a couple of hours later, as I walked past him, my husband said, "Whatever you are wearing is my favorite thing you have." I am so lucky our tastes align, because currently it's my favorite too. I've discovered over the years that chypres are my favorite category of scent, and oak moss is one of my favorite notes. Zadig is warm, spicy, complex, and great at all stages. It's unisex without being pungent. It has some things in common with Mitsouko, without the Geurlain doll plastic opener.

Identical to "La Nuit" by Paco Rabanne with that honey balsamic oakmoss blend. Chypre in the first degree with doses of honey, jasmines, and civet. Brilliant.

I agree with the reviewer beneath me- oakmoss is quite noticeable, and- with patchouli as a flag- this is definitely a chypre- quite balsamic and leathery, with pronounced spices and a "dry", elegant feel. Mine is also vintage, but the aldehydes are still present, and as these wear off within the first half-hour, the fruity notes and spices in the heart emerge (it is only faintly floral). It reminds me of Champagne/Yvresse a bit- but nowhere near as "juicy" and "sweet". Strangely, as it develops, it also reminds me of Azzaro PH and Balenciaga PH, as there is a definite note of anise in the blend of spices and a certain balancing of accords... could this be an unattributed Gerard Anthony creation? Either way, quite nice, and worth picking up if you happen across a bottle.

Fragrance Review For Zadig Emilio Pucci Top Notes Aldehydes Bergamot Peach Orange Coriander Middle Notes Jasmine Ylang Ylang Cloves Orris Root Honey Base Notes Amber Musk Civet Cinnamon Patchouli Vetiver Benzoin Vanilla Tolu Balsam Vintage Zadig (1971) Splash Dab-On Bottle When you want to experience an older-than-you perfume because you just tire of the mundane present, and because fragrance is the only way one can time travel, where do you go for a wealth of vintage fragrances? There is only one place, the same site where you can get your hands on antique first edition books as well as antique bric-a-brac, glassware and furniture: eBay. I purchased this fragrance and Miss Zadig there. This perfume is named after the protagonist in Voltaire's 1747 novel ZADIG set in ancient Babylonia and concerning humanist philosophy, the meaning of life, and the adventures of a romantic and idealistic young man who suffers injustices in a cruel society that continually shuns him until through his own merits becomes king. I wondered what this fragrance would smell like with such a grand philosophical name. I was also reminded of the fashion house Zadig & Voltaire which create rebellious post modern boho chic fashion styles. As it turns out this is a gorgeous Oriental. It made sense that it was an Oriental fragrance because it is meant to represent the Babylonian atmosphere of the Voltaire novel. This is a unisex Ancient World balsamic oil, a perfume jar redolent with fruit, spices, honey, patchouli and amber. The aroma in the mini bottles that you splash or dab on yourself found on eBay can still smell as fresh and as vibrant as when it was first launched. It's overpowering. The aldehydes come through as it begins. Like with so many vintages the aldehyde opening is familiar and very fresh, aided by citric notes of bergamot orange. The citrus is also mingled with a light peach. The zesty fruit and aldehydes later subside and soften into a powdery body of iris (orris) flower and a Mesopotamian jasmine, a rather indolic night blooming Oriental jasmine. Still, because of the fruit and the aldehydes, and as the heart develops, honey and beeswax, the scent is pretty sweet and heady. The sweetness of honeyed flowers, especially when that honey embraces ylang ylang, is quite feminine. Perhaps this floral and honey heart is meant to represent Astarte Zadig's love interest in the novel. Astarte is also the name of the Canaanite goddess of love and fertility. In ancient times honey and flowers were offered to Astarte at her altar. The sweet florals are powdery for a while but it never becomes cloying or headache inducing. When dry, Zadig is a definite Oriental amber and balsam. There is an oiliness to it and a green note of patchouli leaves and vetiver. There's spicy cinnamon, vanilla bean, and a glorious amber that holds everything together. The very last scent to emerge is a civet and musk however it is not as animalistic as other civets that I've come across. It is a good very warm musk accentuated with the other notes particularly the patchouli and amber. Finally the unlisted oak moss appears and it is matching up with the vetiver and patchouli. This smells green, unisex, musky and spicy as it concludes and is more on the masculine/unisex side which also makes sense since it's named after the male hero Zadig of Voltaire's book. Zadig is fresh as it opens with aldehyde and citrus, then powdery floral with iris and jasmine, honey, and balsamic and GREEN with moss-patchouli-vetiver as it ends. Stunning and simple with aromatic green notes designed for both men and women. It's as much an Oriental as it is a chypre. If you're a guy or gal reading this review and have been aroused by curiosity to experience the fragrance simply go on eBay and spend your money on the dab on bottles. This is a mature scent but it's sophisticated and very moving. I love anything that is old enough to whisk me away from the boredom of today's world. Through fragrance I can live out my fantasies and feel the joy of escapism. That being said everyone has their own reasons for wearing perfume. You might want to wear it just to change up your own modern collection. It's not a bad thing to study perfume through vintage classics though. You certainly learn so much as I have over the years. Also keep in mind that what I experience when I wear different fragrances both old and new is my own personal experience and it wears differently on my skin than it does yours or anyone else's. We all have our own unique and personal reactions to fragrance and the same perfume and cologne transforms itself to a different scent for everyone. It never shows the same face twice and it is the effect of the magic of perfume. And this perfume like so many vintages is indeed MAGIC. In the case of Zadig it is Babylonian magic, incantations, spells, love spells, Zadig's quest from oppressed person to liberated and empowered individual. Beautiful!

This is a strange one in a good way. However, This review is being done based on a vintage parfum that's so old, the juice looks like dark brewed tea and is not golden like in the illustration above. With that said, I think it's safe to assume the some of the top notes have long since disappeared, so this in no way resembles anything "Oriental". What's left seemes to be more of a faintly sweet (the florals and tolu balsam?) slightly leathery, woody chypre with the emphasis in the vetiver and oakmoss (not listed, but it's there!). It lies in between vintage Repliqué and Crepe de Chine. For those who love the smell of old leathery, oakmossy chypres and could care less about someone screaming "old lady", seek a bottle of this out.