Haitian Vetiver

I revisited Haitian Vetiver (2014) recently, and it reminded me why Zegna’s former Essenze collection deserved much more attention than it received. At first glance, this may appear to be another classic vetiver fragrance. However, the treatment here is more nuanced. Instead of presenting vetiver as a dry, austere, or overly green note, Haitian Vetiver builds the composition around a combination of vetiver, carrot seed, and subtle citrus facets. On skin, the dominant impression is undoubtedly vetiver and carrot seed. The carrot seed adds a soft, earthy sweetness and a slightly root-like texture. During the drydown, I even get a faint impression of mung bean cake (绿豆糕 or Bánh Đậu Xanh), mixed with a subtle rubbery facet reminiscent of sun-warmed rubber trees. It creates a very specific tropical image in my mind: a quiet afternoon somewhere in Southeast Asia, with the sweetness of traditional desserts blending into the warm scent of vegetation. Interestingly, the fragrance reveals another side when sprayed on fabric. The brighter bergamot and neroli citrus accord becomes much more apparent, adding a clean and elegant freshness underneath the deeper vetiver structure. For this reason, I personally find it performs better on clothes than on skin. What makes Haitian Vetiver special is its balance. It is neither a sharp business vetiver nor a rugged earthy interpretation. Instead, it feels polished, refined, and quietly luxurious, very much in line with Zegna’s image of understated Italian tailoring. It is unfortunate that Zegna’s fragrance line, once developed under a licensing arrangement with Estée Lauder , eventually disappeared. Some compositions from the collection, including Haitian Vetiver , truly deserved a second life. Years later, smelling Grey Vetiver Parfum (2023) by Tom Ford gave me a strange sense of déjà vu, as it shares a remarkable similarity with this forgotten Zegna creation. Whether intentional or simply a coincidence, the connection is fascinating. Rating: 8/10

A crystal-clear reference vetiver, blended to perfection by Marie Salamagne and Harry Fremont. I will echo previous reviews in stating that it indeed reminded me of Guerlain Vetiver, but more elegant: niche quality and well behaved. The carrot seed and neroli notes manage to give it a nice twist, but stay light in the background, leaving room to smell the subtle smokiness of the vetiver. On my skin, I do not get any iris. Guerlain V with jeans and shirt, Zegna HV with a suit. That said, I wish that it had a better projection, as strong as Jacques Cavallier's Indonesian Oud for example. Oh well... I own 25 vetivers fragrances (and probably tested around 50). In my opinion, it's definitely not worth the retail price ($220/125ml), and even the current eBay price ($130/125ml) seems a little too much for the juice. Guerlain Vetiver is currently sold for 4 times cheaper ($30/100ml), and for how much I love Zegna HV, I cannot recommend someone on a budget to blind buy Zegna at 4 times the price for just a subtle difference in quality. Furthermore, Guerlain Vetiver performs way better. For that price, and after reading the various reviews, I was expecting a little better and more unique. No bashing here, but reviews are supposed to help mostly blind buyers, and I want to be honest here. In summary: really great, but some other great vetivers are available way cheaper. Still a love for me. Spring and Fall days, 30+, office (very) safe. Note: discontinued, as well as Javanese Patchouli. The rest of the Essenze line to follow shortly, so if you made one of them your signature, stock up! Edit: I have been a little unfair in terms of performance. Indeed, despite it doesn't project strongly, I could get whiffs after a few hours. That said longevity is impressive: I can still smell it as a very subtle skin scent after 24 hours (!!) and a shower.

I thought I had found my holy grail vetiver with Lorenzo Villoresi's, but it turns out I was wrong. While the LV is very good, Haitian Vetiver is simply more wearable, and that gives it the edge. The first 90 minutes or so are the best 'green' vetiver I've ever smelled. Grassy, but with noticeable smoky facets, and also the hazelnutty aspect that many good vetivers possess. After that, the smell 'dries out' in an almost literal sense. What was wet and green becomes a drier, browner smell that reminds me of why people often describe vetiver as being a woody scent. Although the wet/green phase is the part I love best about HV, I'm glad it evolves in a pleasant, intuitive way that keeps it from being too linear. So yeah, it's everything I want in a vetiver: heady and complex but also very wearable and versatile. Also, it doesn't hurt that my girlfriend swooned when she smelled this on me.

I have now several vetiver-based scents in my collection even though I do not like vetiver. I really hoped to like vetiver when I purchased my first vetiver-based scent, which was Encre Noir from the house of Lalique. Unfortunately, it was too boring for me. Then I came in contact with Bel Ami Vetiver from the house of Hermes, which I really love. Last week I was really close to buy Grey vetiver from Tom Ford but for some reason I chose to buy this one and here are my thoughts on this. I have Encre Noir on my right arm and Haitian vetiver on my left arm. They smell very similar, except that there is something in Haitian vetiver that makes it smell a bit dirtier. It is definitely a high quality scent but it projects weakly and the longevity is not that good either. For the price, everyone should be able to get a better scent. Scent: 7/10 Longevity: 7.5/10 Projection: 5/10

If a vetiver fragrance was ever worthy this sort of price tag it's Haitian Vetiver. I say that purely because of it's faith to the note, it gives you herbal, green, clean, earthy, fresh, dry, spicy, slighly smokey...everything that vetiver represents in one fragrance which doesn't hide behind other notes just gives it you straight. Usually I've find that boring in a composition but vetiver scents are all too often about the interplay between citrus & vetiver. I find Haitian Vetiver unashamedly masculine. I get a citrus in the opening and a hint of carrot seed but it doesn't define or detract from the vetiver at the heart. This is truly one of the unsung hero's of vetiver fragrances...great stuff and lasts a long time. I think this is bolder than Guerlain's vetiver (albeit a nice scent) or Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver (again a great frag) so check it out people.