Knowing

Knowing is an arm wrapping itself around your shoulders on a day when the stresses of life - i.e., the thoughts that turn into static within your mind, the feelings that pull themselves apart within your chest, and the memories that dictate present reality - are in need of dialling down, even if only temporarily. Knowing calls to you on a day when you require peace, sanctuary even, and are ready to submit yourself to its green hues and escape into the fantasy forest it builds from within your own mind. Knowing, from my own perception, says, "I have no gender, I am sexless and aromantic. I have little ego, and I will not intrude upon a room just to please whomever I may find within it. I will not be lowered by the changing expectations of fragrance, as I live only in accordance with the meaning of my name. I will come to know your skin, and you will come to know me when you no longer wish to perform, people-please or project a distorted image of yourself - because I will already know what you need." That is not to say this fragrance couldn't be a special gift from a certain someone, or have romantic connotations - because the beauty of scent primarily lies within its subjective nature - but its effect, its uniqueness, lies in how it stands strong and stark against the "sweet 'n' sexy" feminine fragrances of today. There is little that could be considered "everyday" about the composition of this beauty, even though it's often viewed as a gateway chypre, if you will. Note-wise, I perceive this as being an interesting, borderline gourmand type of savoury chypre because its herbaceous side is so mouthwateringly dry and quite pronounced in the opening with a distinct coriander note. The rose in here is so clever, so sneaky, because it, too, has been dried down into the bowl of potpourri this frag often exists as for many; becoming one with the aged petals and spices, emitting a unified perfume-y scent that nudges you to try to "spot" the elusive rose as it hides in plain sight. The florals aren't necessarily dominated by the green notes here; rather, they've somehow been fully assimilated and work around you as one. An hour or so into the drydown and, despite orris no longer being listed as a note in its reformulated state, I can always smell it: so powdery and suede-like, bringing about a luxuriously clean and refined character alongside the pronounced aldehydes that run right through its profile, before beckoning the cardamom, patchouli, vetiver and oakmoss to follow suit. The scent eventually transitions from being notably green to notably soapy-clean and classy; revealing a core that is defined by the only word that springs to mind whenever I reach this point in the drydown: integrity. In the far drydown, the entire scent profile becomes distinctly 'honeyed' in how the green, floral, and amber notes all merge into a single stream of viscous resin that feels rich and golden. An addictive, earthy-sweet sap, warmed by your skin, creates a fading trail as the fragrance gracefully departs. Knowing performs in a way that can still be deemed respectable, even in its post-reformulated state, with a lasting power on protected skin as well as fabric, that can reach ten to twelve hours with four to six sprays, and a sillage that leaves an intriguing trail that will make itself 'known' to the person next to you, and likely the person next to them as well. - An enchanted forest unfolds before your eyes with moss-covered trees, patchouli bushes, roses that find themselves intertwined with living, breathing vines that seem to be following you with each step you take, and white flowers whose petals almost seem to sway in your direction as you pass by. The scenery is strange and worldly, seemingly containing flora and fauna that originate from exotic lands, somehow existing, and coming to merge, as one. The earth beneath your feet almost has a pulse, a heartbeat; this is a land that breathes. Heady scents fill your nostrils: aromatic, earthy, and spicy. The trees secrete their viscous resin, creating golden rivers of amber that seemingly solidify right before your eyes. You feel the buzz of life against your skin, as both leaves and petals alike come to caress your arms and legs. You know you're being watched, but somehow, that knowledge only fills you with a warm sense of comfort. You know you're welcome here. You're yet another life form the forest is eager to merge with, and you lose hours, or even days, with yellow-orange-red skies transitioning above the trees. Eventually, you find yourself feeling lulled and sleepy, and you discover a soft patch of forest floor on which to rest your weary bones. A pleasant breeze rolls over your skin, and the trees rustle once more just to wish you a peaceful slumber. Your heavy eyelids close, finally, as you float away... Suddenly, your eyes flick open, and you roll up, splashing lukewarm water over the side of the peach bathtub you've been meaning to change. You're feeling hazy, as you realise you must've fallen asleep during a much-needed soak. Dispersed soapsuds float atop the water. The spiced candles remain lit, offering a warm glow against the shadows since the sun seemed to have set while you were snoozing. It was naughty of you, but that "one-time" cigarette you lit just to take the edge off has burnt itself out in the glass ashtray you sat on the floor next to the tub, and a vetiver-esque smokiness still fills the room, mingling with the fragrant candles and the dusty yet still perfumed bowl of potpourri you have on display on the windowsill right above the sink - again, you really need to get around to updating the bathroom. But the most interesting thing is the bar of soap you recently bought - and was so eager to try, after reading the wonderful reviews on its fragrance and skin-cleansing properties - that managed to slip into the tub and dissolve somewhat. It slips and slides as you try to grasp it, but finally, you grab it before any more goes to waste and glance at the word debossed into it, now faded and on the verge of disappearing: Knowing. Your mouth forms an amused smirk, appreciative of the undeniable accuracy of its name, after having experienced a much-needed escape that, seemingly, only dreams are made of.

I scored an elderly lady's collection of vintage minis for a song and this was in there. She was charging 70 and some of the minis are worth even more than that, but I didn't know till I got it home and checked. Not that I'll be selling them, but good to know incase SHTF LOL I've got a backup plan. I bought these perfumes last year, and every now and then I feel like wearing a powerhouse, so I reach for the containers and my hand guides me to exactly what I need in that moment, though I don't know till I spray it. Today it was Knowing. Normally when I reach in, I take my time and sift around a bit till it feels right, but just now my hand was immediately drawn to this. 2 seconds later and I'm in HEAVEN. This is DEEP. I feel as thought I'm slowly stepping through the deep deep moss covered woods, greenery & rich aged wood everywhere. It's so intense. I smell almost no floral, if any, it's dainty white florals that blend into the greenery beautifully. The scene in my mind as this scent spreads around me, engulfing me in this world of its own.. I'm in my living room still though, right? I wonder if anyone else were around if they would be transported to this magical moss covered fairy forest land I've found myself in... This is unlike anything. The closest similarity I can think of would be my vintage Paloma, but even that has a more feminine powdery softness to it. Definitely shared DNA though. They smell related. Very similar, but this... this is unmistakably unisex, earthy, clean clean clean, the cleanest of patchouli, while also being totally of the EARTH, and oh.. the oakmoss!!! I would dread to imagine what the reformulated version must smell like missing this. The vintage Oakmoss is EVERYTHING in this perfume. This is a deep mossy forest, damp, but not moldy. Luscious woods, during a rainy season, but not on a rainy day. It's just so full and lush. Surrounded by thick moss everywhere. No fruit, hardly a floral. Woods, moss, earth, greenery, very slight soapy powder and yes, spice, but it doesn't overpower anything. Everything blends so well. Mine opened straight away with the oakmoss, greenery and woods, but this bottle is vintage, the juice is rich thick amber and I get no fruit at all yet. Pretty sure the fruit notes aren't going to show face and I'm 100% okay with that. Why oh why don't they make perfumes like this anymore??? And how have I owned this for a year and not even noticed this bottle?! This is potentially my new favourite perfume.. but is the new one even anywhere close to this magical? Men - if you can get your hands on a vintage, do it. Women who are of the earth and aren't afraid to be so so real - FIND A VINTAGE. This is unbelievable. This is pure confidence in a bottle. You could wear this dressed to the nines, or in your pjs to bed.. any time, any season, day or night. Though I'm not sure it would have the same effect on a hot sunny summer day, I'm willing to bet this even works then. I want my whole life to smell like vintage Knowing.

(Review of a vintage EdP from 1990) Knowing slides right in to the genre of floral chypres for women that actually can be worn just as easily by a man. Think vintage Dioressence and you’re on the right track. And just like Dioressence, a very bold character lives in the bottle. I suppose that’s the point of “knowing”, right - when you know something, you’re confident about it. The perfume is confidence in a bottle. The opening and the heart are achingly gorgeous - well, the whole of the perfume is, honestly. Rose is somehow allowed to fiddle in the air with a sheerness and frivolity that hooks you instantly. It is found hand-in-hand with bergamot and other hesperidics, and also quite famously pittosporum, which was quite novel for the time. Evoked by what seems like a citrusy jasmine, the pittosporum also has a green edge that comes in very handy when this top cedes to a heart of a loamy and slightly green patchouli accented by florals. The florals of Knowing are quite restrained, powdery, and elegant, which reminds me a lot of what Guerlain used to do with florals in their masculine perfumes (think Habit Rouge and carnations). What makes Knowing very interesting and fun to wear is immediately noticeable in this transition from the top to the heart as the note evolution does not happen in perfectly timed concert: the hesperidics leave first, leaving the rose to do the work, then an orange blossom comes up from the heart to relink the hesperidics and the rose, while the pittosporum more slowly gives way to jasmine and patchouli. Then, as if by a survivalist imperative to launch itself, comes oakmoss in that grandest of vintage mannerisms. On my skin it takes over the perfume completely; on a blotter it has a much more nuanced presentation with the floral vocalists in tandem. The damp woodiness of the oakmoss ushers in a stunning dry down of woods, vetiver, civet, and honey. There is a bit of an amber lean to the base, but it is convincingly an old school stinky chypre - dry aromatic woody, and a wet, slightly sweet, and certainly funky fecal accord from the civet and honey combination. The base maintains the belting operatic contralto timbre the perfume started with; as Knowing evolves and dries down, it doesn’t lose strength, confidence, class, or elegance, it simply moves on to the next part of the melody. Estée Lauder used to be very good at this type of thing - call it loud, American confidence if you will, owning the room so to speak, and they essentially told us they wanted their perfumes to do so right from the outset with Youth Dew. Knowing is going to own the room you walk into. It projects and sillages like warfare, but yet it smells intricate, intelligent, and divine. It’s not all talk and no trousers. In the massive genre of floral chypres this is one of the best ever made, right up there with Dioressence, which, for me, is high praise indeed. Legendary.

Batch code A34 24 110 - 6 months 23 days old. Estee Lauder's Knowing smells AMAZING! I was surprised at how freaking GORGEOUS and potent the current formulation is. Now, while it's no longer got "Eternal Longevity" like it once had, I find that 4 maybe 5 spritzes is perfect for a full 8 hour experience. It really has a classic, ultra clean-soapiness which I really love, and it also has a slight, beautiful spiciness which is simply intoxicating. The aldehydes are noticable, but not nearly as much as Say, Grès by Cabochard for example, and the Aldehydes really add to the "classy vibe" this fragrance offers. The patchuli plays really nicely with the cardamom and thankfully the civet is done in a way that really isnt that noticeable. The vetiver gives it a citric edge and is probably what gives Knowing that high end soapy nuance. It does smell like a classic "vintage" dna, but it does not smell overly "dated" or "old lady" like to my nose, and I also think that us fellas can pull this off with no problemo because its such a clean, classy fragrance that can definately be dressed up or down by men and women alike😉(smelling like you just stepped out the shower after having used an expensive, luxurious bar of soap is GENDERLESS)! Im so glad that I got past my concern about Knowing leaning "too feminine" because after trying it, and considering todays sensitivities, its definately NOT too feminine leaning. Performance is really good especially considering the HORRIBLE reformulations that have been done to some of my favorite classics such as Ralph Lauren's Polo, Tuscany per Uomo, Dior Fahrenheit and a few others which Ive been so dissapointed by lately. Excellent, timeless fragrance and I highly recommend Knowing if anyone is looking for a very wearable, classy, sophisticated fragrance. Ive also read some reviews where some folks claim that there's a "cigarette smell" in Knowing, but I dont pick up on that AT ALL! Now classics such as Grès by Cabochard contain leather which does have a slight "smokey" nuance, but Knowing doesn't contain a leather note which pretty much explaines why I do not get any cigarette smell. Now, if ya really dislike aldehydes, then Knowing may not be for you, but Id give it a chance because I used to also dislike Aldehydic fragrances, but now I look for Aldehydic fragrances bc I've grown to really appreciate that note quite a bit so the same may happen to you😉. Estee Lauder's Knowing is an 8.5 outta 10 fragrance imo. And is an affordable, "unisex" MUST in anyones Perfume collection.. STELLAR CLASSIC FRAG!!💖💫💣👌. Go getchall some Estee Lauder's Knowing Ya'll, before they steralize it with another reformulation, or worse.. Discontinuation!!🫨Thanks for taking time to read my review.

Setting: Macy's, 2020. Mission: Purchase a Youth Dew holiday gift set. Plot twist: The protagonist is derailed by Knowing. Yes, Knowing has left me dumbfounded in awe. It all started a few weeks ago. I eyed that sculpted tester bottle, sitting near the Macy's checkout register, nearly hidden from sight, and asked the sales clerk to spritz some Knowing onto a card. I hadn't smelled it in a long while, and didn't remember much caring for it back then, at the beginning of my fragrance journey. But what the hell, right?! So color me flabbergasted at the olfactory symphony that greeted my nostrils! I fell absolutely, totally in love. Trying to show some restraint, I left without purchasing a bottle, but that card never left my hands the rest of the night. By the next morning, I was back at Macy's for my betrothed. Knowing is timeless and majestic, now my reference rose chypre. The current formulation opens with an aldehydic blast alongside mimosa, a bit startling at first. Give it a few minutes, though, and the scent coheres on skin, as rose emerges atop the earthiness of oakmoss. There's a little fruitiness too—at different points in its evolution, I can detect a hint of melon or a smidge of plum, but they're always in the background. (Plum was much more noticeable on the tester card.) A musky civet accord gives it an animalic funk, for me, the proverbial cherry on top. In a Knowing frenzy, I also purchased a vintage EDP splash bottle. It's quite similar to what's currently available, except it smells more grounded, with stronger oakmoss and rose notes. In comparison, today's version feels more diffuse. That said, both are perfect. Beyond the smell itself, I've also fallen hard for the "vibe" that Knowing embodies. It's confident and self-possessed, intelligent, no-nonsense, commanding respect. Knowing reminds me of Angela Carter's feminist fairy tales (seriously, read The Bloody Chamber and thank me later), a heroine retreating to the forest, tending a private rose garden, her restorative act of meditation. I imagine women like Joan Didion or Jean Smart wearing Knowing upon its original release. Today, Michelle Williams (actress, not Destiny's Child, lol) or Fiona Apple might wear it straight, that is, unironically. So, please, please, please, whatever you do, just buy a bottle. A singular experience awaits.