Suédois

I'm discovering a lot of happy solace in my sample of Suedois, so much that it may need a place in my collection. The blending of notes is superb and contrastingly culminate into something of comforting simplicity. Suedois is my escape -- it's my indulgence in a hazelnut Alexander (a twist on the classic brandy Alexander) with a sprinkling of nutmeg on top. Creamy, woody, nutty sensuality that puts me in a euphoric, creative fog before I even notice its narcotic effect. Sipped in front of a gently crackling fire; clean, sweet, musky, heavy animal pelts -- no sexy bearskin rug for two, but a solo retreat to a cabin where I might start my next writing project or fill my sketchbook with flowing images in soft charcoal. This scent is addictively compelling, strong yet gentle, leathery, cozy and secure.

Suedois has a very very complex opening. Upon initial application, one gets blasted with an extremely dense and rich blend of labdanum, castoreum, suede, syrupy raspberry, resinous balsamic notes, some heavy spiciness, and a sort of milky, woody sweetness. It's everything at once and it's kind of a lot to take in. I'm not so sure the raspberry fits in as it gives the whole opening a "witch-doctor's cough syrup" vibe. Thankfully it doesn't hang around too long and the drydown moves away from the medicinal facets and into a much more pleasant direction. It has this strangely familiar quality, but I can't seem to place what it reminds me of. The suede is the main player, but theres a very noticeable labdanum and castoreum/birch smokiness that is supported by a strange milky-sweet sandal base that's compelling. Polarizing, i would imagine as it's kind of the distilled essence of the milkiest facets of sandalwood and that has the ability to turn stomachs (including my own) on occasion. The far drydown is a soft patchouli, suede, and sandalwood combo thats nice enough. All in all I really like Suedois, but I don't think I can see myself reaching for it too much. The sandal-suede-focused drydown is my favorite part, It's tempting to compare this brand to slumberhouse for their dark, thick extraits and their sort of southern gothic/black metal atmosphere/apothecary aesthetic, but I think Euphorium lacks the precision and focus of the better slumberhouses. That being said, this corner of the niche world could use a few more players so the brand is a welcome addition and their fragrances are worth a try from anyone who likes to smell dark, complex or mysterious. 6.5/10

Very nice animalic ambergris suede. The opening is beautiful and sweet and creamy suede, ehich develops into a sharper animalic as the ambergris comes out. I get a lot of sharp ambergris from this, and that saltiness is a wonderful counterpoint to the sweetness of the cream. I personally think dialing down the ambergris a bit could make it rounder and a bit more balanced, but that's just preference. Still a beautiful composition. This is the best amongst the 3 I sampled from this house, the other 2 being Flocked and Gilded, and Chocolatl - both of which I have severely negative opinions about. I guess that's indie houses for you; it's about the art, and that I can completely appreciate. I've recently started looking for a leather scent I'll love, and this could be a strong candidate. Not a blind buy, I think, as the ambergris is quite prominent, but something worth a try.

I don't always have the best luck with leather scents, but this is clearly leather. Other notes are there too. The elemi gives a rubbery note that occasionally makes it lean pleather. The "new shoes and something sexy" someone else commented is actually pretty accurate. The myrrh gives a lovely sweet vibe.The balsm and castorum gives a sharpness. As it settles the sandalwood gives a powdery cloud and a bit of dark patchouli peeks out. But all those extra notes are just texture supporting leather. Upon revisiting (January outdoors) the leather scent seems to fade as it wears. I get an occasional sweet patchouli/resin that is reminiscent of By The Fireplace and fresh notes. It is almost as if it got fresher as ot faded. Ambergris? Sage? Could be eithet.

So here we have a real suede note screaming. Seems like very high quality suede, like one Bentley would use for the headliner of the interior of a contential gt. But, I detect and equal amount of medicinal oud. Very medicinal overall and I would have to pass on purchasing this. I am glad I have been able to experience this though, it is very interesting and I can see certain enthueists picking this up.

If you like those kind of notes this is one of the best perfumes that you can find. High level stuff here :).

this starts off with olive brine, smoke and animalic leather. i sense the resins coming through next and it's still quite smoky but a little less so. later on the resins take over, i think i am getting a lot of labdanum and elemi along with some leather. i like this perfume a lot but it's not really something i could personally wear.

Suedois, meaning both "Swedish" and "Suede" in French, is a brilliant mix, interweaving strong ingredients that give it a natural power. To me, the aroma of ancient tanning craftsmanship. Fresh leather made from hides being cured using aromatics, oils and herbs. Raw resins scraped across the skin, smoked in leaves giving off an earthy vapor. The leather is soft and rich. There's a balmy floral undercurrent, tinted with spices, woods, and the glorious camphor of resins. The potency comes in waves off your skin, with excellent sillage and longevity. Imagine an ancient tanner working a soft hide. Using precious fragrant curatives that wash the surround with the most incredible smells. The inspiration for this beautiful leather perfume is their storyline, that in the past, each of the 3 men of Euphorium Brooklyn had fallen in love with a Swedish opera singer, Miss Lind. One of the notes is Swedish wildflower, and the perfume is their poem to her. Euphorium describes their scents as "Perfumes and Extracts of Euphoric Transcendentalism". Their "Komodo Process", named for developer Graf Rudolph Komodo, is an homage to an early 1860's practice of refining perfumes using neuro toxins and hallucinogens for each users "Euphoric State". Suedois is a great example. Its supple suede impregnated with the shimmering rush of complex notes. Natural, sensual, and addictive.

My second favorite scent behind Wald. This is a rich suede or leather concoction, with insane longevity and pretty good sillage to boot. It does lean on the gourmand side, but during the drydown, I get a fantastic creamy sandalwood, perhaps an Australian or New Caledonian. I had great comments from both men and women on this one. Totally unique, and a hearty recommendation from me- this house is really impressive!!

This is the best fragrance that I have ever tried. I used up my entire bottle, and that never happens. Every time that I wore it, someone would compliment me effusively and stand in close to sniff more. Several people went and bought it themselves. They didn't get quite the same effect from it. Apparently it just worked perfectly with my skin. Maybe one day I can justify buying another bottle.

This house is just TERRIBLY AMAZING. Animalic (suede + castoreum + balsamic + ambergris + musc) sweetened by (whipped cream, nutmeg, labdanum) and mixed with patchouli, myrrh, cardamom, mint, and tonka bean. This is just amazingly captivating, dark, sonftened with sensuality, and beaten by sweetness, just balanced and made with superb quality.

Oh, no. No no. Plastic smoke pretty much tsunamis everything. I had to scrub this. The birch tar is unrelenting in its most unattractive form. This smells NOTHING at all like Hendley Bourbon on my skin. I adore Hendley Bourbon and it lacks completely the birch note that makes this one plasticky.

Just the right amount of burnt ashes. Or is it tar? Perhaps some resin. Just gorgeous. Maybe it’s like YSL Opium without the sweetness? I worry my bottle will be empty one day. Scary thought.