L'Insolent

L'Insolent. (1947) Unknown year reviewed. 1oz Parfum concentration . Crystal bottle in a shape of a woman's decollete , Mauve grained ribbon box with white label F.Millot. My review is for the parfum, freshly opened from its lengthy storage.Ill probably be back to amend this review as a fragrance opens up once its exposed to air. Im going to talk a bit about the fruity, leather spicy chypre that had its opulent day in the sun from about 1943-1956; a revival in the 80s, then recreated for perfume enthusiasts in 2000s, wile the genre is practically extinct with the current oakmoss restrictions of the IFRA. Mitsy for Guerlain started this genre in 1919...and another odd Guerlain entry in 1976 with Parure. You could say the grand chypre does endure in its incarnations and modified to fit the times one lives in. L' Insolent was F Millot answer to a fresh young entry into the market in 1947. Crepe de Chene was already a classic for this house and hired an outside perfumer to create this entry for the Maillot cannon of fragrances. It opens with an acrid galbanum, bergamot opening, then settles down into a familiar leathery, fruity (peach nuance) mild floral with oakmoss, labdanum, dominant smooth spices that tickle the throat, so I can only guess its from clove, cinnamon or pepper. As for the florals, I detect jasmine, rose, lilly of the valley and powdery musks, sandalwood, light amber kind of sweetness on the drydown. A tuberose enters in the base. This leans more on the spicy side of the fruity leather chypre. I dont get a lot if in your face animalics, more of a warm nitromusk feel. I dont feel its "earthy" or woody description fits at all. This is a spicy leather oakmoss fruit kind of chypre. 6oz Legere edition: Probably a cologne: Notes arent as condensed like they are in the parfum and aired out. A real tarty bergamot opens rind and all) florals such as rose and jasmine surface... followed by the plum and peach...a light tuberose..a beautiful rendition of the chypre.. stardate:8.24.2018