Ambra Nera

When it comes to Ambers, my ultimate test is: “Does it smell old and dusty?” Naturally, there are myriad ways to approach the amber accord, but my most beloved ones are those that smell like old books, antique shops, old furniture, dark, mysterious, and with minimal sweetness. Ambra Nera from Farmacia SS. Annunziata 1561 is exactly that. A medieval brew from one of the oldest apothecaries turned into a perfume house, much like their neighbours, Santa Maria Novella. Both these houses have quite a few offerings that smell as if they were put together centuries ago, and perhaps they were. It is also a unique take on amber, as it brings unusual elements to the table: a medicinal and camphoraceous, almost antiseptic tinge, as well as a slightly moldy patchouli in the base. You know when you visit one of those XV century castles and the rooms smell of old furniture, closed heavy air, cold stone walls, and dust? That’s the most accurate depiction of this fragrance. If you ever did one of those castle tours, there you have it. The opening is perplexing, starting with a cold and bracing eucalyptus note paired with the most bizarre alcoholic beverage accord that reminds me of a local spirit drink made of plums called “tuica.” The booziness goes away, but the camphoraceous facet only softens and holds its ground till the very end. In the heart, you start to get a caramelized amalgamation of resins: labdanum, styrax, benzoin, and perhaps some vanilla to soften it slightly. It’s thick and warm, and very dusty. There is an animalic tinge to it, something I can’t place, soft yet detectable. It smells like a musk accord. Later, it gets woody and slightly musty, as the woods and the patchouli become more apparent. This is where I start to picture that Medieval chamber with dusty old furniture. I really like how the cooling effect in the introduction contrasts with the warm resins throughout. It feels bizarre, but in the most captivating way. It is an amber perfume that not only passes my test with flying colors but also manages to bring idiosyncratic elements to the table, something that most ambers lack, as they often feel predictable and dull. An old apothecary potion that cools your sinuses and warms your guts, that’s what Ambra Nera is. What I don’t understand is what happened to this house? They put out perfumes like Ambra Nera and Patchouly Indonesiano, two of the most spectacular and distinctive in their genres, made with high-quality ingredients and a bold, creative vision, only to get axed and now replaced with horrendous compositions reeking of cheap synthetics, obnoxious, boring, predictable, and mass-oriented. I have tried a few of their recent, more popular, and exclusive blends, and I had to remove the paper strips from the room because I couldn’t bear it. It is a shame. Another great house that dared to be different, even more, one with deep roots in perfumery, among the oldest in the game, swallowed by the commercial demand and monetary need. I am grateful to reminisce about their old days through exceptional compositions like Ambra Nera. IG:@memory.of.scents

This is gorgeous precious stuff. A labdanum centred perfume with layers and glorious layers of deep thick honey. Oh yes, this is sweet, but also herbaceous. Very classy and controlled. This will envelope you in a bucolic haze of burnished caramel. There is however, a beguilingly rugged depth to it. A close to primordial nature element. Like stepping back in time to a medieval forest. This smells ancient. I tried and tried but I cannot find the name of the perfumer who created this scent. My guess is this formula has been around for a long time, given Farmacia SS Annunziata's history. Hands down, one of my favourite ambers (it is up there with O Hira). I don't understand why this house gets so little attention. For the price, quality and evocative power, this is unparalleled. I prefer this over Profumum's Ambra Aurea and Fiori D'Ambra by a long shot. This, in my opinion, has far greater complexity. You do need to like honey in all its facets though. The honey here is fierce and bordering on animalic. I do love it. Ambra Nera is addictive. Every night before bed, I will uncap the atomizer and sniff the spray nozzle. I do this unfailingly and subconsciously for a handful of perfumes that I consider true love. The rest of em don't ever come close :)

It is hard for me to get my head around how some have rated the silage on this as soft. I think I am being conservative by saying moderate. For those not familiar with this house, they make fragrances that announce themselves from the outset, with just a small amount sprayed on. If you love Dior's Ambre Nuit, then the chances are you will love this one too. It isn't that they smell like siblings, more like distant cousins. A family resemblance to be sure, but not living under the same roof. Ambre Nuit is more flowery, but not as sweet. Some say this has a classic scent about it. I am not sure I have the nose to distinguish classic from new and classic, or new and old-fashioned. I love the scent, and I have lots of fragrances that are amber centered. I would put this in a similar ranking as some of the usual suspects (Aber Oud, Ambre Sultan, Amber Absolute) which to me at least is high praise. This is not a summer scent, but it would work in any other season, but leaning to the colder weather. I think it is unisex, because it has such a variety of high-quality notes blended well. This house has wonderful scents. Try a decant if you can.

This has become my go to scent of the day. It's so comforting, yet edgy. It's simple, but something new always surprises me in it. It's animalic, but nobody will be offended. It's green, but an amber through and through. It's deceptively simple, but in a way that becomes the centrepiece of your outfit on any given day. It's being DISCONTINUED, but you can still get a 30ml spray directly on Farmacia's website. And it's on sale, so for the price right now it is a bargain!! You won't find this unique and unpretentious of an amber fragrance anywhere else. And soon you won't find it anywhere. To quote Kafkaesque - a PUNK ROCK AMBER - that's right on the money.

So many fragrances are evocative of scent memories that I generally avoid using the term "nostalgia" in perfume reviews, but Ambra Nera gives me a feeling I can only describe as nostalgic. Alfarom's review below is a perfect description: this fragrance evokes feelings and sensations of rooms filled with refined antiquities and precious herbs and spices. In such a room, I would not be surprised to see Oscar Wilde. Beautiful, haunting, and intriguing.