Fendi Theorema

I can’t recall the exact year, but it must’ve been sometime in 1998 when I purchased my then-just-released bottle of Theorema from Saks, which was (rather dangerously) right around the corner from my shop in Old Town Pasadena. It was a warm autumn, bordering on hot, as it was often in the odd, slightly artsy, not-quite-Los Angeles-not-quite-the-‘burbs little corner of mi barrio, and I was SO thrilled at my new purchase, I actually CALLED a friend, VIA MY LANDLINE (if I recall correctly, I also had an “answering machine”, the kind with the little red light that would only blink when and if someone had left a message. My already-mercurial emotions were gauged by that darn light: Blinking or Steady....!?) to extol the virtues of this amber-hued elixir in the drop-dead gorgeous box (that BOX! UGH. Perfection!). I read off the accords that are printed on the left inner flap in gold foil, and I think I paced the wood floors of my tiny bungalow, so hyped one would think I’d won the state lottery. I had also purchased Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre that same year, and had Jungle L’Elephant form the previous year, so needless to say, I was afloat in a golden, citrus, Oriental amber sea of bliss by the beginning of the new millennium. Alas, it wasn’t long before that same diligence-of-a-magpie that has me switching jobs, partners, addresses, hell, countries with a blip of my beady black eye, had me firmly planted in the then-few offerings my new-found love, Comme des Garçons, my gateway drug that tossed me down the rabbit-hole of “niche” perfumery. #aliseinwonderland #dontdrinkmesmellme. So, out went my “designer/department store” fragrances. With a few exceptions, I was primarily Boutique Betty for over a decade, and had all but forgotten about my intense adoration of goddess-granted fragrances such as this cinnamyl/gingerbread/orange peel/sandalwood wonder. Until a few years ago, when I became more of a “collector”, than just a “shopper”, and less of a niche-snob, I welcomed a few, now vintage, gems back into the fold. Now I adore Theorema with more of a wistful loving, tinged with a bit of longing and a tad of melancholy, perhaps for days gone by? Like that feeling when you’re homesick...but you’re already home, or missing something, someone or somewhere that you know you’ll never experience in quite the same way again. It can’t compete with the complexity, or the opulence of some of my other fragrances, and to me it’s a fairly simple blend of warm spices, and a bushel of satsuma. In fact, most of the other nuances can be slightly bogged-down by the sweet orange accords. BUT. But. I really do love Theorema with all of my whittle black heart. More often than not these days, I need the simplicity of a fragrance that just smells so damn GOOD, I need to roll around on the big, plush, golden brown, cinnamon & saffron-orange carpet of Theorema, contented as a kitten, and recall, not necessarily better, or worse days, but just different days, with fondness and clarity. I can’t state much more than has already been stated, but I’ll add in closing that my Theorema, as well as my much-loved Jungle Le Tigre, and my Jean Patou Sublime, while not the most complex, unusual, or artisan fragrances, are still a few of my most comforting. They reside at the front of my collection, like little golden testaments to the longevity of true beauty, happily elbowing for space with my “weirdos”, artisans, indies, & niche guys, and I’m never letting them go again. I have a big bottle, and would love to share this liquid joy with anyone who wants it.

LOST MASTERPIECE. The first scent that led me on a real frag quest. After reading so many ecstatic memories and reviews of it here, and loving other Fendis, I had to find some - and only then found out the tragic tale of its discontinuation and its lasting cult following. It was mentioned so often in the same breath as my woody-spicy loves that I had to have it. The tremendously kind and generous user @Planet_X gifted me a decant and it was confirmed. Yes I had to have it. Then went on a wending odyssey through US decant sales houses and some strange international corners of eBay - and thanks to another brilliant fragrantian, @corkscrewcurly, struck it lucky to get some miniatures at a reasonable rather than vintage-silly price. It's astonishing. Stunning woods, spices, warmth, class without being intimidating, individual without being freaky, sweet without being sickly. Zingy fresh lemon (and SURELY a good load of orange too?) up the top, cycling into some of the warmest, most tasteful, most nuanced cinnamon and nutmeg and woods I've ever smelled. Having smelled around more I think it might have, or mimic, the note of gaiac/palo santo which is never ever a bad thing. Just gorgeous from any angle. Makes you feel all put together. This is how it ought to be done. For once the cultists aren't deluded, because this one truly deserves to be worshipped. And whoever discontinued it deserves to be named, shamed and exiled from the world perfume community for all time. (Well, OK, maybe that's a little vengeful, but it should convey how all-around great this one is, that a complete unknown could stir me to such passion. ) Nobody in my life ever wore this, it's not specifically evoking any special memories, it's not even the most luxe or most artistic frag I own. Yet I feel it's made just for me ... and thousands of other fans feel the same! A perfume version of that politicians' charisma that makes everyone they talk to feel like the only person alive, no doubt. Donna Karan Black Cashmere comes closest to a substitute .... but of course that, too, is discontinued. *weeps in frustration* . For my money Theorema should be Number One Candidate for an international fragheads' petition for reprieve from oblivion. Someone should dupe, or buy up the formula for, this and bring it back from the near-dead. Transcendental.

Fifteen years ago, I was a teenage girl walking through the mall when a pushy saleswoman shoved a perfume into my face and said, "Try FENDI!" a name I'd never heard before. I rolled my eyes and gave it a quick spritz as I ran off. Several minutes later, I was mesmerized by the most decadent scent. It was sweet, rich, thick like syrup, and a bit spicy, like nothing I'd ever smelled in my life. I thought, This is the scent of a real woman! I desperately wanted to go back, but I knew I was just a very young girl and could not afford such a luxurious perfume, but I never, ever forgot the name FENDI. All these years later, the name FENDI still haunts my mind. Thanks to eBay, I found a full, unused bottle of Theorema for a very reasonable price. No miniature was going to do, not for the perfume I'd waited half my life to own! When the bottle arrived, I was like a kid in a candy store, feverishly ripping the tape off of the cardboard box, chipping my manicure...hoping I bought the correct fragrance because the saleswoman never mentioned the actual name of the perfume. The initial spritz was full of citrus. I did not remember smelling citrus, but I gave it a few minutes to settle. And there it was--the glorious, warm, rich, sweet smell that began my love of thick, oozing orientals. It seemed like all my adult life I'd been trying to find a perfume that could match up to the FENDI of my youth. And now it's mine, all mine! I am all grown up, a woman worthy of wearing this exquisite creation. If you could imagine a family's Christmas gathering, full of love, a delicious feast, laughter and merriment, and the glow of a quietly crackling fireplace, you can glimpse FENDI. Smoked woods and resins create a base upon which are stacked deliciously soft spices, sweet amber, and a lemon note that smells more like a sweetened black tea with lemon. I love Palo Santo and burn it frequently. Just recently I was wishing I could find a Palo Santo based fragrance. When I get to the base notes of Theorema, I smell that precious wood very clearly. I was amazed to find out that gaiac wood is in the base, which is another name for Palo Santo. They just don't make perfumes like this anymore. What a pity. Nothing can replace Theorema.

Theorema has a scent profile that isn't all that unique. There are numerous spiced amber scents out there. Somehow I still find this unique. It opens as a slightly sweet, spiced orange. In the opening the spices are more aromatic, as the scent develops they become warm, cozy and rich. There is a lightness to this fragrance despite it being a warm spicy amber. I never find it heavy or cloying. As the fragrance dries down the tartness from the citrus fades into the warmth of the amber and resins, making a wonderful base for the spices. Thankfully the spices never get skanky. There is a sweetness to this fragrance, but it is never over the top and is balanced well with the other accords. The woods and florals are always present, but are supporting players throughout the wear. Theorema is sensual, classy and beautiful. It's a more womanly than feminine. I picture this being the fragrance of a bold, confident woman. This is a fragrance that has aged very well. It was released 25 years ago, but doesn't smell dated. I find it more classic...one of those things that never really goes out of style. The performance has been excellent for me. The projection is light to moderate, but leaves a beautiful trail. A heavy application does increase the projection, but I find that takes away some of the beauty of this fragrance. One of the things I really love about it is how it dances around me when I am wearing it. It never feels like it is clinging to my skin. Instead it is just floating around with me all day. I only tend to wear Theorema on cooler days. The scent profile is not one I gravitate to in warmer weather. I especially like to wear it around the holidays. It's like mulling spices and oranges...a perfect accompaniment to Christmas I love the packaging. The simplicity of the design is very applealing. The shape of the bottle is interesting and unique while still being understated. I don't have many backup bottles in my collection, but Theorema warrants one if I find another reasonably priced bottle.

There does not seem to be a separate section for the "parfum d'extrait version of THEOREMA." So if I'ts OK ,I'll leave it here. I know I'm very very lucky to have been bought this from my partner as an anniversary gift as it's discontinued and rare.( Hubby:Thank-you thank-you thank-you!!!) This is even deeper and has more rich amber and Jasmine than the Edp. I love the Edp very much I think it has more spices than the parfum d'extrait, yet this is more oily and thicker if you shake bottle gently holding glass top in place of course.so this is a little less spices but somehow still heavier and prominent orange, probably more pink pepper in the Edp version and more sandalwood in the pure pafum ? I'm no expert so hard for me to say. It's a stunning bottle with its magical glass dipper instead of a spray, 25 ml. It has slightly better staying power than the edp i guess due to the essential oils and fact that parfum is richer. I absolutely LOVE this just as i love the Edp and the summer version. why was this taken off the shelves ? this perfume smells like heaven and money ! its sooo classy and expensive smelling, orange and spice and all things nice but done in a way that is soo classy. Top notes are listed in box as: Thai shamouti Eglantine California tangelos Mid notes: Jasmine petals Advanced spices Cinnamon Pink pepper Osmantheus Base notes: Spicy dustmusk Heart of Macassar Sweet creamamber Gailac wood mysore sandalwood Basically it's SICK !!!! Edit: I'm lucky enough to own a baby collection of say 45 fragrances , all of them Dior , Chanel, tom ford etc. I will say this is my most treasured one it's perfection. Pure parfum, filled with rich oils, this has to be my most ***FAVOURITE*** perfume ever ! I've not yet found anything that beats this in this parfum version. It's treasured :) edit: dropped this beauty in sink and It smashed , managed to keep a few mls in a different empty splash bottle but talk about gutted !

I Finally got myself a bottle of this based on fact that I have the ESPRIT de ete version ( summer )which is pretty amazing. At first I was unsure my esprit de ete is an edt yet my bottle of this an edp so firstly I felt it was a bit of a let down in strength as it did not seem that strong really I was expecting a booming fragrance but alas no :( However it is fairly strong for the first hour or so and when it seams to back off a bit it still remains for a few hours as a strong floating skin scent. But what it lacks in projection it more than makes up for in quality, this is simply lovely and smells exquisitely expensive and comforting to my nose. Soft orange first then cinnamon and cream. It's elegant and expertly blended with just enough spiced rose on the dry down. It does not shout , it is not loud , it kisses your skin and is very sensual with a bright happy feeling from the orange and sun warmed amber ,Oriental ,soft finishing touches. This is mentioned to be a softer version of armani prive ambre so now that's on my list well what an advertisement!! Back to fendi lol, Which do I like best this edp or its sister fragrance the Espirit de ete version??? Unsure really as esprit is a bit fizzy like champagne so is just as lovely as this slightly spicier fragrance, truth is I will be gutted when either of my dreamy sweet adorable THEOREMAs go to their last drops. I will say do not over pay for this as bottles are getting older and this looses its power a little to a lot over the years sadly. This has become one of my go to fragrances, I love it, sooo classy and elegant a favourite !!! FENDI perfume ROCKS ! I love this perfume and the bottle too ,so classy!! Why don't fendi make fragrance any more ? ? Tis a shame !

Theorema is one of the most brilliant fragrances ever made. Christine Nagel is an absolute genius. Opens up strong & regal, then immediately settles into the smoothest, richest, most transparently ethereal, complex & delicious scent on earth. Smells like delicately spiced gingerbread, creamy vanilla & bright oranges. Yet Theorema isn't a typical syrupy gourmand like the ones currently flooding the market & causing mass nausea. It's complex & grounded with guaiac wood, sandalwood & amber at the base. Never overly sweet & cloying, just heavenly. This was my signature scent for many years & works perfectly with my chemistry. I have a couple of bottles I managed to acquire after tragically losing all my originals in a disastrous move, & I savor them. It still smells exquisite on me. It is heartbreaking that this has been discontinued. It was my absolute, unequivocal favorite of all the fragrances I have ever worn. I wore it during the happiest time of my life, discovered it during a cherished holiday shopping trip with my sister at Saks, and strongly suspect that I will never find anything I love so much again, nor will there ever be another fragrance like it. I'll never forgive them for taking it off the market. I continue my search for something similar to Theorema & have yet to locate it. Meanwhile, I have counterintuitively replaced Theorema w/ Cristalle as my favorite.

I'm crying I love this so much. I had a bottle years ago that I likely got in a makeup alley swap (it was already long-discontinued even then) but it disappeared during a move along with a shoebox full of other perfumes. Maybe I donated them but that doesn't sound like me 🤔. Anyway, now that my perfume hyperfixation is back years later, I'm remembering about my lost gems and I'm trying to replace them, which in this case is no easy feat, but I did find a mostly full bottle secondhand for a relatively reasonable price recently and it still absolutely hits. Theorema opens with a clove studded orange, then quickly begins to transform, with occasional light whiffs of nag champa incense swirling upwards. From the notes, you'd think it would be a thick syrupy spicy thing but it's not. It's light and effervescent, and the rather intimate sillage is where it shines. The ambery drydown is smooth and creamy, with the spices sanded down like a chai with lots of milk (not lactonic, though, just blurred). I don't mind at all that it wears close to the skin, and in fact I think the effect would suffer if it was a big projector, but I do wish it would last a bit longer. Oh well, I'll just spray it again!

I could never really place what Theorema smelt like until I read some reviews on it...all I could think was erm, soft, warm oriental?...but orange, chocolate, cinnamon...(and more)?! Whoa! I first smelt it in 2000 when I was in Italy and regretted not buying it, so when I got to go again in 2002, I snapped up a bottle but was disappointed because it lasted about 5 minutes on my skin and smelt somehow sharper. Dang! An old bottle?! Obviously, I couldn't take it back! A year later, I spotted a gift box in a chemist while out shopping...so I snapped it up. Body Lotion, Bath & Shower Gel and a 30ml of the perfume! I compared it to the one I got in Florence, and they were both totally different colours - the new one being much darker! I checked the bottom of the bottle and lo and behold, the one I got in Italy was Eau de Toilette and the new one today is Eau de Parfum! The EDT is still nice, but somewhat sharper, whereas the EDP is creamier which I adore. I much prefer the EDP...the oranges do come out at first spray, though it's not like zesty organges and then gradually, slight chocolate, cinnamon and cream...though not foody if that makes sense. Such a delicious scent!

Theorema could be classified as a "borderline" gourmand (officially, it's a spicy-oriental), but it's nothing to be afraid of if you're typically a bit stand-offish with gourmands. To my nose, there is a bit of skank here (meant in the best of ways, of course) that tempers the gourmand elements. (Am I the only one who smells this? I haven't seen any mention of it in other reviews). I pick up heavily indolic orange blossom and jasmine, the slightly dirty scent of cumin, and a very earthy patchouli. I find these notes sexy and alluring in combination with the honeyed amber and benzoin base notes. The orange and lemon, along with cinnamon and other spices, bring it very close (but not quite) to gourmand territory. The citrus fades quickly with the dissipation of the top notes but is almost mouth-watering when present. Theorema is a deliciously warm, elegant, and mature fragrance. It calls to mind the enveloping luxury of a fur coat or a sumptuous cashmere sweater. With relatively low sillage and longevity compared to other spicy-oriental scents, Theorema is appropriate for day or night. Perfect for winter, when the urge to bundle yourself in warmth and luxury beckons...

I have a habit of sniffing my wrist closely once every two or three minutes when I'm testing a perfume but I had to stop doing so when I was testing theorema,it seems very strong,even sharp when I glue my nose to the place I've applied it.it has great sillage so that I can easily smell it without doing so and the whiffs my nose is catching are magical,so gorgeous that I know that I have to have it in my collection and it's also totally wearable in modern day life I'm glad that I can't detect much of rosewood or carnation as they usually overpower other notes for me.on my skin it's a combination of flowers and spices in a warm and sweet base of honeylike amber(which reminds me amber of Yves saint Laurent cinema,another favorite of mine)and creamy woods and benzoin All spice notes and florals are so well blended that I don't pickup separate notes.just a warm,sweet,spicy,creamy,rich,delicious,inviting,charming,golden scent.something memorable and with personality.I was expecting something oldish and very spicy but I was wrong.it's beautiful,strong and the only fendi perfume I love(albeit I haven't tried many) For me,it's a fall and winter/night scent Love it

Believe the hype. I managed to acquire an 85% full bottle at a reasonable price and I think it's incredible! I have been transitioning into my heavier amber/spice/incense orientals for the past few weeks. Many of them end up smelling just like the one I wore the day before, with subtle differences only apparent if you're paying attention. Theorema is different. Yes, it is spicy and loaded with cinammon, and amber and benzoin are there providing smoothness and an oriental touch, but something sets this apart and makes it immediately identifiable as Theorema. Is it the nutmeg?? I don't know!! They list lemon as a note, but I detect something closer to tangerine. As it mellows out, it becomes sweeter, with a faint floral dusting. Very decent projection, silage, and longevity. I have and have had several different Fendi perfumes over the years and this one is undoubtedly their masterpiece. I am so happy that it's now mine. If you can afford the prices it is going for then get it. It's niche quality. EDIT - It is definitely the nutmeg that makes this so unique. I smell it quite clearly now in the top and middle, and it is delicious.

This is extremely lovely smell. I was cautious because I thought it might be a little bit too spicy, but I was wrong. It opens very warm, rich, creamy and sweet. There is the spicy aspect, but it's very delicate, just the right amount to make it even more warmer. At the opening I feel lovely jasmine sweetness with tiny bit of lemon freshness, but mostly the sweetnes from jasmin + the little doze of spices that make jasmin appear not so heady (as it sometimes does). When it goes to it's heart phase it becomes slightly bit sweeter, must be from rose + cinnamon appears and as many know I have a thing for cinnamon in perfumes (if it's not too much and all over the fume), so I enjoy this even more. I don't feel any patchouli. It's excellent oriental. I really can't understad why something like this is being put of the market? Wtf? Really? I think with this it's not even love-hate relationship, I think it might please almost everyone and this is a must for every oriental lover. Fendi should be suied for this one.

Oh, Theorema; where have you been all my life? Thanks to fellow Fragrantica member, Darlingbuds, I have a sample of this precious, spicy elixir. It has been waiting for me to try it, obviously, because it's SO me. Rich but not sickening wafts of orange chocolate are emanating from my cleavage, delicate trails of cinnamon with whisps of pink pepper. Utterly scrumptious, this is an all-day wrist-sniffer and is going straight to the top of my I Want list! This is a beautifully warm oriental that manages to be deeply sensual yet perfectly sophisticated. Alluringly well-balanced - this one wont knock you over the head and drag you to its lair. It doesn't have to, it's far too clever for that. Instead, this is like smelling the faint trail of freshly baked orange & cinnamon bread, never resting until you have followed the scent trail and tracked down your delicious prey. The drydown of creamy benzoin & woods is to die for. An amazing perfume I am sure to have a long love-affair with!

Theorema captures the essence of pre hippie chicness of the early 60's from smoke filled cafes to an old count's piazza Theorema gives a vibe of an Jaded Roman Jet setters ala La Dolce Vita with the spoils of war. Long gone but we have it's Zeitgeist, The opening is cozy with chai then dries with an etching of Pepper, grounded nutmeg & Cardamom adds to a dryish opening Bright citruses with it's transparent clearancy blown from a distant and lush pastoral fields gives an warm Mediterranean travelogue then closes the top note is sun scorched Brazilian Rosewood. The Heart is cinnamon fiery sweet earth dries with spicy carnation falls in with the mysterious elegantness of Osmanthus velvet texture of the rose starts to steep though adding an demure presence, The drying down dark and Resinous with benzoin leaves an allmost esoteric mental frame amber adds to the sweetness then dries with fiery Sandalwood.

Theorema is a beautifully composed fragrance and somewhat of an aloof Oriental. Warm lemon and gentle cinammon enter the senses to start. Then slowly, an infusion of smooth spices saunter subtley onto the scene. Predominantly, cardamom and nutmeg are discernible with their earthy, nutty character in a soft and almost velvety accord. Amber radiates a diffusive glow throughout, like a filtered sunset. A harmonious balance of flowers presents itself very gently without any one flower being louder than the other. Rather than olfactory floral notes being detectable, their round, lush character is presented at a perfect low pitch. Sandalwood and benzoin are most noticeable in the drydown, completely soft and gently balsamic with just a freckle of pepper and a hint of dry aromatic rosewood. Truly wearable and an easy-to-love Oriental fragrance. Versatile, balanced and quietly satisfying.

Once more, I find myself wondering why a perfume house decides to discontinue a great scent.I received a miniature of Theorema, and already have started my search for a full bottle (wallet cries) It is a citrusy yet spicy scent. It opens with refrshing lemon notes blended with lots of nutmeg and other warm spices. The nutmeg is dominating the composition from top to bottom in my opinion. I would have loved a bit more cinnamon, I must admit that. Theorema is very warm and easy to wear, without the Opium-Cinnabar style spicy character that scares people away. This is a 'hug me' oriental, not a 'beware' one!Having dabbed on from my 5ml vial, I found its longevity medium to low, despite the fact that I used a good 2mls over my neck/wrists. I would be very interested to know how it compares to the d'ete edition, as that one can still be found for a reasonable price. Very beautiful!

Androgynous scent- pure sophistication! The charm-alarm continuum that presents two facets equally: feminite, enchanting and seductive, with its intriguing bouquet of a cardinal carnation, crucial white flowers and tender rose accords; and also masculine, sharp and victorious with all its spiciness, woodiness and amber..geezerness.... No powderness at all here, and with just a hint of sweetness, the scent transcends the fairy tale of Cinderella and takes you directly into the domain of Persian 'A Thousand and One Nights' with all that lethal charm of Shahrazad, where you can't help but abandon yourself and be abandoned inevitably.... Bon Appetite anyway! Unique perfume and yet it reminds me of my beloved Nu Yves Saint Laurent EDP with its fantastically nipping resinous tail. Paragon of decadence! And both of them are discontinued. What a shame!

There are a few fragrances that I still cannot fathom why they've been discontinued. Many, many years after they have been taken away from us, they are still complete legends in the perfume world. No one will ever forget them, and fragrance lovers who never had the chance to know them, seek them out just to try to imagine what they've missed. I've been on various fragrance boards for almost 20 years now, and the legends live on. What happened to the formulas? Isn't there some way to recreate them, even if not exactly, to the point where we could enjoy even a ghost of their magic? Theorema is one of those legends that should have been a CLASSIC, not discontinued! Also, Escada Collection, Ralph Lauren Safari, Venezia, Angelique Encens, Lea St. Barth, Chanel Gardenia...the world needs these beautiful creations.

Theorema's opening stage shimmers like tinsel on my skin, a restrained spicy, orange pomander adorned with cloves, balmy yet auric in nature. Nagel achieved an effect that is almost Lutens-like in approaching a spiced Eastern amber with atmosphere. The core is like fruitcake, with its currants, citron, lemon zest, and apricot—served aside a floral centerpiece by a warm hearth. Nutmeg and cinnamon is the sweetest dust, plush and woodsy, close to the skin, sort of a translucent, silken amber. There is then the suggestion of Drambuie on the skin, an apt digestif for the experience. In spite of there being little in the way of what's traditionally sultry, and the musk here is by no means animalic, Theorema still manages to feel effortlessly sexy. To nuzzle the neck of someone wearing this—I can only imagine.