Once Upon a Time

I adore Francesca Bianchi's work in general - I've been pretty smitten with everything I've tried except Tyger Tyger, which for me was way too cloying, and that is the only reason I decided to order a sample of this rather than just going for it blind! But this one? Pure, immediate LOVE!!! Once Upon a Time has *SOME of the familiar, animalic Bianchi base notes, but the candied almonds give it an almost playdoughy effect in the first moments, something I don't always enjoy but here I love love LOVE! It reminds me in those first moments of the one most captivating playdoughy perfumes I still regret never buying (since it's now discontinued): People of the Labyrinth's Luctor et Emergo (minus the cherry). The effect of the almonds give this a super cozy depth and I love how the gourmand touches (and they are light, not heavy handed) mix with the animalic base --- it's the most refined and classy gourmand I've had the pleasure to smell!! OUAT feels like a warm, maternal hug, and makes me think of what characters in an Elsa Beskow painting would smell like :-) I've GOT to get a full size of this one!!!!!

I got got my bottle today and I was pleasantly surprised. I was worried this might be too sweet and cloying. but it's not. It's a woody slightly leathery fragrance. it's spicy and a tad sweet, but nothing like the new mainstream death by sugar kinda scents. Its definitely one of her more pleasant, easier on the nose scents and I absolutely love it!

Ah, good friend Vanilla Beaver. It greets you with a warm hug, and stays a good 7 to 8 hours - as a welcome guest 🦫 Edit: well, almost 12 hours and it's still here!

Francesca is one of my favourite perfumers of today, she holds such immense talent, which is especially seen when she indulges in her own taste and style. Sadly in recent releases, her work seems to hold less life, less character, and less ‘Francesca’ inside them. Once Upon A Time is not bad, but another representation of this. The candied almond note is lovely I must admit, intensely dry and nutty, with a decayed, dusty vanillic leather in the background. The castoreum adds a sweet musky bitterness to this which is wonderfully welcome. However, the Candy floss accord and Iso E Super bring it all crashing down. This could have been incredible, had Francesca delved further into the dark animalic character she used to. Sadly it seems she is determined to crack the wider market, pushing out perfumes which are good, but mass appealing. This is not what people love her for, by appealing to the masses you start to lose the true enthusiasts.

I get the mandarin at the opening which fades quickly, then the candied almonds. There is and airy sugaryness not so much cotton candy, more caramelized, like the scent of the air in a candy shop. I also get a slight plasticy note like the scent of a baby dolls hair. I can see where the nostalgia element comes from ,candy and toys, smells like a mall in the 90s at Christmas time. A bit linear. Not much change after the opening. I like it and while I would like to own a full bottle there are other Francesca Bianchi scents that I would add to my collection before this one.