Francesco Smalto pour Homme

Francesco Smalto pour Homme is a unique, gorgeous aromatic fougere. It is a lovely smokey-herbal-Oakmoss scent that places it squarely in the 80's powerhouse fougere classification, and yet it is far more approachable and subtle than all others of that class: the huge majority of votes at the top of this page list FSpH's sillage as "moderate"! My 22-year old son uses FSpH regularly, precisely because it is so different than fragrances worn by his peers. Think about it: no citrus notes, no aquatics, no cocoa or vanilla, no wood elements, no soapiness and no sweetness whatsoever. FSpH was pretty unusual in the 80's, but utterly unique now! If I close my eyes and focus on the fragrance, FSpH's dry, herbal smokiness transport me into another place: nightime amongst desert sand dunes, where the warmth of a smoldering fire offers comfort from the cold night air. Onto the glowing embers someone has thrown some dried herbs and mosses which meld with the fire's smoke to wrap me in a comfortable embrace. Some reviewers have found similarities to Drakkar Noir. I guess to some extent that's valid, but FSpH is a far drier, smokier and more austere fragrance (while at the same time having less sillage, and being less of an attention-seeker). As I write this it occurs to me that FSpH might contain some of the elements that the current reformulation of Drakkar Noir is lacking compared to the vintage version. I wonder if layering FSpH with current DN might result in something akin to vintage DN? My rating: 9/10

After waiting and waiting for ages to receive order from an online seller (who shall remain nameless - but who rhymes with FlagranceX), my long awaited bottle of Francesco Smalto arrived. Woohoo. I have been focussing on collecting powerhouse fragrances and this one came highly recommended, so I bought it blind. I am glad I did. Wow, what a magnificent cologne! It has so many similarities with fragrances I already have. There is a definite similarity with Azzaro pour Homme, but F.S. is a little edgier. I also detect similarity with Polo and to some degree Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills. If I were to pick the two closest, I would say it's like Polo and Azzaro mixed together (with, perhaps a touch of Lapsang Souchong tea). Anyone unfamilar with Lapsang - it has a distintive smoky flavour. The smokiness in F.S.is very appealing. I was going to say I was surprised there is no artemisia but I Googled tarragon and what do you know... it's a member of the artemisia family. Artemisia along with patchouli are two of my favourite notes and they blend together with the lavender to make a potent yet attractive combination. The oakmoss is quite strong and in fact I sprayed some F.S. in the crook of my elbow, while comparing it with other fragrances and it ever so slightly irritated my skin (So I don't recommend applying it to your eyelids). This is a long lasting fragrance and well-worthy of its powerhouse status.

This one has always been a 'love' from my very first time wearing it. It's complex mix of notes winds up being enticing, exhilarating, sexy and comforting all at the same time. I love the earthiness, smoky side and the nice and noticeable oak moss and musk in this frag. I don't get any tonka bean notes in this at all. I love the fact that when I'm wearing it I've noticed both men and women lean in towards me to get another sniff. Most often the comment is "Whatever you're wearing - I like it!" So do I. Lol Yes as some have indicated, there is a bit of similarity with Drakkar and even similar notes shared with Giorgio Red for Men. I've sampled all three side by side. Make no mistake those are fine and worthy scents IMO. But Francesco Smalto is one smooth MF and less in your face than the aforementioned two fragrances. This was a sleeper frag in its day. Popular with a small crowd. Unknown by many. It reminds me of the discontinued Van Cleef & Arpels Tsar likely due to the oak moss as well. A timeless discontinued classic that I'm happy to still have in my collection. I'd never sell it. A very beautiful yet masculine scent. Could easily be worn year round. Overall: 9/10

Francesco Smalto pour Homme is a fantastic 1980's powerhouse fougere. It is almost as dry as Yatagan by Caron, although it smells nothing like Yatagan whatsoever. The opening is strong - a spicy, smokey lavender/leather combination with a touch of anise (the only seemingly "sweet note" during the entire development). This becomes a very nicely balanced fragrance once the initial olfactory onslaught mellows. After about an hour, the anise seems to be gone but the smokey leather is still there with the lavender coming through more distinctly, along with only a hint of some very dry florals. By the four hour plus mark, the lavender is at its finest (really nice!), the smokiness has faded, and I detect predominantly leather with some oakmoss in the base notes. This is a wonderfully masculine fragrance, and anyone that enjoys Quorum and Azzaro pour Homme is sure to enjoy Francesco Smalto pour Homme! This is without a doubt one of my all-time personal favorite fragrances.

Francesco Smalto PH is a love at first scent for me. The dry, burnt smokiness combined with a familiar green herbal mix and potent blend of oak moss and leather is addictive. While it doesn't have the depth or refinement as vintage Polo Green, it could be its younger sibling. Imagine a smokier (as in burnt wood "smoky") Polo Green but remove its prominent tobacco note. I wear Fancesco Smalto more often than Polo Green because it's cleaner (I agree w/ solidsergio7 on Xeryus) and you can wear it whereas Polo Green can sometimes wear you, if that makes sense. Antonio Puig’s Quorum is another classic that comes to mind, among others, but for me, I much prefer this drier/smokier approach to this crowded genre of woody aromatic/chypre classics, which is why Smalto’s PH stands out for me. Score: 8.5 ou tof 10 Would I purchase a replacement bottle? Yes, this is perfect for overcast days, but could be worn year round. Disappointing that this was discontinued.

my old time favourite EDT - wore it first when I was 20 - everyone loved the smell, it was unique - 6 years later I wanted to buy another bottle but I was not able to find it anymore - just recently I bought a bottle online - and still love the smell though I think the longetivity has somehow changed - apparently the early bottles were made in France and newer editions were made in the USA - anyhow I still love it and just recently I found cheap bottles for only €7 for 30ml on the french Amazon page Amazon.fr - had some hassle getting it so I bought immediately 5 bottles - just to know that I always have a spare available - the smell is fresh but also a little smoky - best to wear in fall or winter - I never found a smell alike this one, so it's unique

Francesco Smalto pour Homme is a great fragrance. Is herbal, woody, smoked, spicy, floral and leathery. The opening is beautiful and very strong, it feels lavender, tarrangon, bergamot, rosemary and anise, but after it softens, altouhg follow smelling very good. After two hours appears a smokey leather combined with lavender and a soft haba tonka, patchouli and cedar. This fragrance is very aromatic, but at less the formula that I have is not so powerful. I found a great similarty with Drakkar Noir, but Smalto is smoked and actual Francesco Smalto has better longevity and price than actual Drakkar Noir. I think It could be used every time of year. I love this kind of fragrances, I love Francesco Smalto Pour Homme.

This is amazing, reminds me of the original Colors by Benetton, the all black bottle. I could swear there is cloves in here, like jacamo d jacamo , but nope , it must be the menthol aspects of the anise that seems like cloves. I has that 80's vibe , like Antaeus , but spicier , I'm gong to find my bottle of Caron 3rd man, see if they are similar. I can see why everyone speaks fondly of this Gem, a Great manly scent that is still relevant. 2023 edit; its just like drakkar noir, I have both now and gave them a side by side, the dry down on this is uncannily similar. I see why it's #1 in votes for similarity

Uuuuuhhh this is heaven in a bottle. Pure Italian fougere-nectar! The opening alone is highly addictive, like the openings of vintage -Lacoste ('84) -Xeryus ('86) -Basile Uomo ('87) -Tsar ('88) and so on....addictive stuff! And then the unveiling of the equally aromatic, dense, mossy deliciousness that makes a classic italian fougere, imho ;) Once you pop that cap, it's gonna get you! 10/10

This is Drakkar Noir meets Xeryus . Unique masculine scent ! It’s a darker version of both but not as fresh as DN , whereas Noir is sporty all-time around fragrance , Smalto is more for special occasions, romantic settings. Good longevity and moderate performance. Prices are sky high but fortunately got it from a seller from Mexico City. They seem to have a huge stock for the classics.

Herbal, dry, smoky, leathery, aldehydic, mossy—dreamy masculinity bottled. Unlike some of the 80s fougeres that arguably come off as somewhat strident, Francesco Smalto Pour Homme is a smooth operator, with an understated naturalness that sets it apart for its genre. Be sure to pick up a bottle with the ridges in the gold collar of the cap.

Ok, this bring back fond memories of 24 years ago. But I'm glad I found Smalto on here because I just have to say - I thought this was sex in a bottle. I haven't been around it in a very long time, so I don't know if I'd still like it today. The ad campaigns in the late '80s with, "Smalto... You make me weak..." were spot-on perfect.

smoky in deep dark forest. Don't pick up any substantive anise or tarragon whatsoever, sadly. 9/10 scent , 4-5 hours

This was my signature scent when it came out for many years! Still love the smell of this magnificent juice!

@Paligap The one in the main picture is the answer to both your questions

shamus1, instantjim and preetmonger - fantastic reviews! I was a little hesitant at first to buy this - although I am a powerhouse and aromatic fougere lover, I was worried it would be overly-done or perhaps a shadow of another scent. I was also concerned if the bottle I got was a good one as there are threads on other forums of cheap (possible immitation) bottles. I got the real juice from a reliable source and have very serious affection for this fragrance! Excellent. Shamus1 nails this - I got hit with the smoky opening full of rich green herbs (tarragon, sharp lavender, and rosemary) and florals (similar to Drakkar Noir but with added smoke), which sort of floored me...in a very good way. Surprised not to see artemisia as a listed note - (as was Instantjim, who found tarragon to be in the artemisia family...bingo). It is not as tarry as Jacomo de Jacomo (which can be over the top for some) and the smoke blends very nicely into this. The specific accord is the carnation-clove, blending with the rich oakmoss and heavy, warm leather. I would have to say that it is an Aromatic Fougere (classic 80's style after DN's success starting in 1982) with a lot of leather, lavender, oakmoss, deep patchouli, musk and other green/floral notes. The citrus is minimal - this is a rugged scent, not "fresh" - but in your face macho. It is not the tough guy at the bar - it is the bouncer who will throw him out! I recently have reviewed the reformulation of Drakkar Noir and feel it is very good (lighter than before). Ironically, this is like Drakkar Noir "Black" - ;-) ! The notes are very well-blended here...impressively so. The smoke stays, but other florals come forward in the heart and the fresh top green herbs keeps this from becoming dank or musty. This is the perfect smoker's fragrance...and yet there is no tobacco note. Apart from Drakkar Noir, I would have to say that this is actually fairly unique. I don't get a strong anise note from this (although it is mentioned), but there are subtle nuances of dark licorice undertone, along with a nice, green fern note in the late heart. Overall, Francesco Smalto Pour Homme is a rich, smoky leather scent that has well-incorporated green and floral notes - I do get the rich tarragon and some nice rosemary, so green, earthy/herbal indeed. The patchouli here is deep, earthy and rich. The musk, just slightly dirty - which goes perfect with the smoky leather, oakmoss and warm tonka bean (coumarin) for that classic fougere vibe. I have a large collection of Aromatic Fougeres and this one just found a home in my rotation! Excellent. Throw my hat into the ring of really, really like - damn near love. I am curious for a full-wearing of this, but I can tell it is a powerhouse. For now, I give it a solid and respectable 8+/10 and a recommendation to buy (I have worn the latest Drakkar Noir several times lately and increased my rating to 7.5+/10 - I would say they are very close, but slight nod to Francesco Smalto Pour Homme for the depth and not reformulated that I can tell). I would reach for DN to be less-offensive/daytime scent. I'd rather not compare, but when in the mood for a composition like this, one will choose either this bottle or the opaque, black one that says Drakkar Noir on it. This is actually closer in vibe to a layered wearing of Drakkar Noir (current with vintage formulation) as you get both the green/herbal/floral notes with the rich base from what only the Vintage juice can offer. This bottle is great to hang out and enjoy on cool, fall & winter evenings projecting an intense, macho-vibe - and wear just to feel I got a pair. Great bottle of juice and only to be worn by men, not boys. Highly recommended.

The best of the Aromatic Fougeres that I have tried. This was a favorite of mine for several years when I was much younger. It was so different from everything else I had, and I never smelled it on anyone else. I found it in a Spiegel's Outlet store in San Marcos, Texas back in the day. I wasn't sure I loved it then. I don't think I was mature enough for it then either. There was something about it I liked at the time, but could not put my finger on. Years later I understood it was the oak moss. This thing is an oak moss beast. All I get is oak moss and leather; deep, dark, mossy leather and moist, musky earth. The opposite of a dry scent...wet and with an herbal quality. The bottle is the right color for the scent. Not floral at all, not just-showered fresh, not oceanic, not sweet, not slight. THIS IS MAN! It lasts and projects like crazy. I still have my bottle from the mid 90's. It smells the same. I take more pleasure these days from knowing I have it, and from the memories of the time when it was mine; not from actually wearing it. They do not make them like this anymore.

I agree with most of the descriptions of the notes from previous reviewers and overall I think this is alright. BUT I have two reservations. - The first is that the smokiness and leather notes combine to give a slight but definite urea smell which puts me off (like the smell of fresh kidneys cooking). - Secondly it seems like a watered down powerhouse - the projection is good early on but fades fast and longevity on me is only 5 or 6 hours and it's barely detectable for the last few hours. Can't help feeling it was made as a "safe" version of some earlier powerhouses and didn't really commit to anything fully - that might be what you want if some of the others don't suit you - but it just doesn't do it for me. I have other scents that IMHO do a better, more full-blooded job (that I can get hold of more cheaply) and this doesn't add anything to my wardrobe. OK but can't recommend.

Francesco Smalto Pour Homme is a beautiful and captivating powerhouse scent that integrates many of my favorite notes. It starts out with herbs, lavender and anise while gradually passing into a heart heart of fern, carnation and geranium and then yielding to a leathery, tonka, oak moss and musk finish. What I really love is that the presence of smoke, motor oil, soap and leather is always at hand letting you know that this is a manly scent that deserves respect. FSPH has quickly become one of my consistently used favorites. Not for a younger crowd, it needs to be worn by men who have experienced life and understand their place in this world.

The reviewers below that compared this to Giorgio Beverly Hills Red are correct to my nose. I was blown away to learn they smell nearly identical, and my wife agrees so I guess I'm not crazy. I'm glad I only bought a mini of FSPH before forking over the crazy prices on ebay for a 3.3 oz. Other similar fragrances to FSPH are Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme and Jung Pour Homme. But Red is a dead ringer and the 3 people I had compare the two fragrances all agree. BTW No need to get butt hurt if you disagree with the comparison. We all smell things differently so relax. As for me, I saved $100+ so boom!

Based on my vintage mini-bottle, it's a like, but not love, for me. While it's in that green-herbal-mossy neighborhood, there's nothing here that "wows" me into a full bottle. That said, it's very nice and most definitely deserves its fans; I merely prefer other similar offerings in this category like Bogart Signature (less expensive, too), Basile Uomo, R de Capucci, etc.

If you long for this fragrance but can't find it anymore, just pick up a new bottle of Giorgio Red and you'll pretty much have it. I own both and I'm wearing both on my wrist right now as an experiment. If I didn't know which one I sprayed on each wrist, it would be very hard to tell.

I see two presentations for Francesco Smalto pour Homme. Which one is older? Which one is considered better?

Trying this, I already know that it might not be worth relentlessly chasing every fougère take. If this is the original version, then what we have here is basically classic barbershop style, but in the vein of Bon Monsieur, Lomani, Kipling or Gucci Nobile — so there’s no darkness, animalic notes, complexity, gourmand aspects, or really anything beyond shaving foam. It might be decent, but we’re talking about hunting for vintage bottles here. It might slightly veer towards Gianfranco, but comparing it to Jules would be an overstatement.

I was giving this tarry juice a chance few times, but...never it convinced me of its olfactory "merrits", in all; the WORST I have, worster than Sung For Man, I'll keep on keeping it in the collection anyway.

A nuanced and complex aromatic fougere that resides along the Jazz/Tsar/Tuscany axis of this fragrance type. What I've always appreciated about Francesco Smalto PH is that, unlike Molto Smalto, this fragrance embraces the dark/smoky aspects of "leathery" aromatics, and opts out of the "fresh" dihydromyrcenol approach, instead favoring intense oakmoss, tarragon, artemisia, rosemary, sage, black pepper, and a dab of anise for warmth. This scent is one I've put on the backburner for a long time, and today I finally bought a bottle and I'm just as pleased with it as ever. It's fresh, herbal, floral, and dry-leathery (in an abstract sense), and it always smells great. Revisiting this, I find it reminds me of Tsar and Jazz, but it also reminds me a lot of Sung Homme. It's got a similar lavender note as in Drakkar Noir, also. But the Sung Homme association gets stronger as Smalto dries down. That's a good thing - Sung smells good. Smalto smells excellent, too. I want to write one more paragraph about something regarding this fragrance that I don't think can be overstated: FSPH smells incredibly natural for an eighties fougere of this type, and especially at this price-point. The opening blast of moss and herbs is multi-dimensional, and really shimmers. Then the early drydown yields all the herbal notes at their most intense, a veritable garden of spicy manliness that is out of this world. Wait for the far drydown to smell an incredible tonka/anise/moss/musk that is smoother than horsehide. I rank this up there with Tsar as being one of the best aromatic-green ferns of the last thirty years. And if you were to suggest that FSPH is a bit of a "fougeriental," I wouldn't argue with you.

I bought two 100ml bottles like 1.5 year ago of this old 80's powerhouse due to all reviews I read, not being able to test it. It was not in vain as I really love the stuff! Ubermasculanity in a bottle! This juice really rocks and contains all powerhouse qualities! It's macho, dark, smokey, leathery, ubermasculine, strong, lasting and projecting! Most powerhouses don't have all these qualities as Shamu points out correctly as they are mostly not smokey and this dark! (assuming the brilliant Tsar is no powerhouse) The opening is a mix of lavender, flowers and leather mixed with anise. The anise seems odd but makes this dry fragrance smell pretty different than any other powerhouse I can think of. The anise complements the other masculine notes during opening and smokey heart stage and disappears when the drydown sets in. The drydown which is pretty soft compared to the first 1.5 hour of the opening and heart goes on for many hours lingering around and never seem to leave you which makes it a pretty long lasting fragrance. The drydown is also still smokey with some masculine stuff going on. lots of patchouli, leather and oakmoss are the key players there which keep it dark. As ericrico pointed out there is no freshness at all in this scent but just brilliant boldness in a bottle! To be used in fall/winter only! Longevity is 8+ hrs and sillage above average first two hours and average to close last 6-8 hrs of its long life time. Thumbs up! Rated: 9/10

Obtained a vintage Dark gray/ black/ gold 30ML bottle batch code 0LJ. SMALTO MADE IN FRANCE on the bottom. I am laughing at the level of disgust of this juice (At least in the top notes). The opening is the most photo-realistic smell of rancid human armpit BO I have ever smelled in a marketed fragrance. That pungent sweaty onion zing. That smell marinating from a sweaty friend that makes you queasy yet you be polite and not say anything all the while suffering on the inside until you depart lol. What is strange is you don't smell the armpit BO on the atomizer, you ONLY smell it in the top notes which tells me the fragrance hasn't gone bad- it's an actual part of the DNA. It's revolting! It cant be a citrus note thats gone off- this fragrance is mostly herbals. I am looking at all the notes now on Fragrantica- what IS that note!? All the ones on this list are pleasant to me from experience. There has to be something missing from that pyramid for the vintage juice. Dries down like your typical 80's herbal aromatic- similar to Drakkar, PR PH ect. but that TOP- holy freaking frick. This is like a 'Jokeshop' version of Drakkar Noir. Like a fake plastic turd on your chair. Only made to get a rise from others. I want to give this a second sample run on my arm but i'm literally terrified to try again lmao. So bad! Don't see a reason to get this whatsoever- Just get a gorgeous Drakkar Noir 90's Cosmair version- the best version of Drakkar imo.

2021 Update: I wore this today at work, and coworkers commented that I smelled "minty" and "like peppermint or something." My 100 ml bottle was purchased seven years ago (the far tail end of 2013 into 2014), and the first half of it, worn between 2014 and 2020, was interesting. It would open with a Drakkar Noir-like herbal lavender accord, but then about an hour into the wearing experience a strangely "meaty" note would creep in, rather thick and almost truffle-like with a "fatty" accent to it that seemed odd in a fougere. Fast forward a few inches of liquid lower (and several years), and this strange effect has largely disappeared from the wearing experience, replaced with a very brisk mint note, mostly peppermint, and it's unmistakable. I don't know why this note is so dominant now, but after maturing in the bottle (I'm a firm believer in the process of in-bottle maceration), and oxidizing in a decreased pressure atmosphere, the fragrance has "opened up" a bit and allowed these crisp mint notes to shine through, and rather loudly at that. When my coworkers made that comment they were fully twelve feet away from me. A few hours before they said it, I thought I noticed a slight cooling effect when I sprayed FSPH on skin. Menthol, perhaps?

If you don't like Sung pour homme - don't worry ! Because Smalto (according to this reviewer of course) has as much in common with Sung as fine Pear Liqeur has in common with urine. They both contain water and aromas, that's it, the similarities end there. Smalto was a serious 80s creation, not one of the big landmarks, but good, and therefore still worth searching for. Sung in comparison was an attempt to make money that needed a freakish color to attract buyers. Smalto's bottle looks a bit like a gilded and strictly stylized pear. And that's how Smalto smells. In those days what you saw not rarely was what you got. Compare if you will Smalto's bottle to Quorum's and to Iquitos's. They all have glass in an Amazonian night green color with gold lettering. This is a color combo that resonates with the 80s infatuation with Indiana Jones adventures - the desire to go looking for treasure and existential meaning in warm and exotic places.

I love all the 80's leathery powerhouse fragrances, and Francesco Smalto Pour Homme is one of the best of that lot. It's unlike most aromatic fougeres in that it smells smoky, which is unusual for this genre. It also smells darker than any other fougere I've ever smelled. Fans of Drakkar Noir should really enjoy this because it shares the same strong oily leather smell as Drakkar, and it's that leather which gives Smalto its powerhouse strength. Boatloads of oakmoss and patchouli mixed with the leather set this firmly within the 80's powerhouse category. Smalto is one of the most masculine fragrances I've ever smelled. It actually increases in strength the longer it's worn, and you will wear this a long time, since the scent will stay on your skin for well over 12 hours. Sillage and projection are also phenomenal, making this a bonafide power scent without a doubt. MY RATING: 10/10

I agree with karlovonamesti in his review. Smalto por Homme is very similar to Sung Homme. Both are also powerhouse products of the 80's. But there is a herbal, dry vibe in Smalto that is not in Sung Homme. Sung, IMO, is more soapy. A long lasting scent (12 hours) that goes on and on. I remember the ads in gentlemen's magazines of that era, ( Playboy, Penthouse, Oui) A Black and white shot of a woman ( in distress? in heat?) with the caption " oh smalto, you make me weak..."

A plain, testosterone-prominent, aromatic fougere with a bitter / smoky character. It opens with the most typical fougerey accord to then become starker and darker during the middle-phase / dry down. By all means masculine, by all means a fougere. Not much too add... Rating: 6.5/10

I used this back in '95 or so. I remember I used to love it. One of the most original fragrances I have owned. I would really love to get a bottle now. I recall sillage was enormous.

A dark 80's powerhouse. On me it's, the top notes are smokey, dry leather. Over the next 6 -8 hours it's stays the same, and that's not a bad thing. Happy to have this unique gem.

Amazing juice. bright and yet warm.Compliments always.Discontinued but still around on ebay.

This fragrance got me a one night stand in 1996..hook ,line and sinker..thankyo

10/10 high quality. Yes, you can save money, but this is smoother. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐