1697

The house of Frapin is well established in the cognac industry. Seemingly, they have carried that tradition rather successfully to commissioning equally good boozy fragrances. Indeed, I can’t think of another house that has released more amazing boozy perfumes over the years than Frapin has. Among them, there has been 1697, originally launched as a limited run, and later integrated into their regular line. And yes, it is a brilliant boozy perfume, but what really puts it over the top is the nose behind it, the master of disorder himself, Bertrand Duchaufour. Had it been anyone else, 1697 would have certainly gone down as a great rum fragrance. But Duchaufour had to make things far more complicated. If you take a look at the note pyramid, this might strike you as another “been there, done that” bacchanalian composition resolving around the well-proven combination of booze, vanilla, spices, and dried fruits. There have been countless such releases over the years. The latest to catch my attention, from one of my favorite houses, Parfum D’Empire, was Madagascar Baume Vanille. However, 1697 smells like none other. It took me some time to pin down this fragrance. It is bizarre at first. The only thing that is rather obvious is the blast of rum in the opening; not sweet, friendly, or “perfumey,” but quite the literal smell of rum. One thing you get with Frapin perfumes is the most literal sense of the spirit in sprayable form. The rum accord is so vivid that it questions your choice of scent depending on where you plan to wear it. After that initial burst wears off, the rollercoaster begins, the rum lingering in the background. You soon realize this is really Duchaufour at his best, which also means, at his most chaotic, old-school self. You smell dried fruits, not coated in sugar, but sour, as if soaked in rum, and turned slightly stale. Afterwards, you pick up a bitter and medicinal quality, dusty and somehow putrid. It hints at something you smelled before, but you can’t quite put your finger on it. You look at the suggested notes and accords, and it hits you: it’s Hawthorne. Here, only the more off-putting facets of the flower are used. And when I say off-putting, I mean: Did you know that some say Hawthorne flowers can give off a scent resembling that of decaying flesh? Then there are also quintessential spices, woody notes, and another major player, vanilla. The latter, however, is yet again alien and unlike the common practice: dusty and dry, with hints of smokiness, devoid of sweetness. Speaking of which, this perfume overall lacks the typical sugary qualities that members of this genre so often abuse. It is, in fact, quite dry. Therefore, when you put all the pieces together, hyper realistic rum accord, stale flowers, musty wood, dry and dusty vanilla, and sour dried fruits, one can guess why this has never been very popular, and perhaps why Frapin has decided to empty the barrel and fill it with something else. Overall, the most accurate way I can describe how this fragrance smells is: going down into the dusty and dank cellar, putting your head inside one of those wooden barrels in which the liquor was aged, only that the barrel is now empty and all you smell is the soaked wood, and the cellar. Unlike most perfumes in this DNA, 1697 never sought to appeal to the general public. It was rather a testament. That Frapin can not only make great cognac, but also great perfumes. And of course, it was yet another stroke of genius from one of the most prolific perfumers of this century. It is chaotic, but only till you get to know it enough to place all the pieces in their rightful place. It has its challenging, attractive, and unique bits. Drenched in rum, and quite unlike anything I have smelled. I see people comparing it to L’Artisan’s Vanille Absolument, but 1697 is more focused on rum and dried fruits, smells more mature and higher quality. And I confess that deep inside, when Parfum D’Empire launched Madagascar Le Baume Vanille last year, this is what I hoped it would be; alas, they decided to split it and leave something for the mainstream market to enjoy. 1697 made no such compromises, and that’s why in my books, it is the best boozy vanilla ever made. IG:@memory.of.scents

I always thought of myself as of a gourmand lover, and this one just fortified that. 1697 opens with a well-mannered spicy-boozy note of rum and added cinnamon. With dry fruits coming into play, this scent's heart easily reminds me of chocolate candies filled with cherry and liqueur I used to love when I was younger, even if it doesn't really share a connection other than being boozy and fruity in a way. I feel like there is a dash of chocolate or cocoa in this fragrance, enhancing the sweetness of heart. The drydown stays pleasantly sweet with amber and vanilla surrounded by the same boozy rum accord from the other phases. Frapin somehow made a sweet gourmand with a very thin scent cloud. 1697 doesn't last or project as I'd expect it to. It's there, but in a subtle form, with a small aura diameter and maybe six hours of longevity. That being said, those who come close enough will like it or love it, most likely. To me, it's a good way to manner such a sweet, potentially cloying perfume, although I wouldn't mind if it either lasted longer or projected farther. Also, I think it's worth mentioning that it's the most expensive one in Frapin range, with its price being a solid obstacle for a person like me. It's only fitting for this to be one of my all-time(with a lot left to explore, though) favorites, as it has pretty much everything I'm searching for in a perfume. Consider this a phenomenal choice for winter, evening or intimate wear. 9.25/10

I rarely felt myself as stunned as I felt when I smelled this one for the first time. And, since then, I’m under his spell. Frapin 1697 is gorgeous. Just one word: gorgeous! Better (and more persistent) than its brother 1270, more profound than its sister Caravelle Epicée, more mature than the youngish L’Humaniste and more "serious" and full-bodied than Speakeasy, 1697 is so far IMO the strongest and deepest scent in Frapin’s portfolio (I don't know yet the latest one, Paradis Perdu). An extraordinary amber & vanilla & patchouli... a boozy... warm... spiced... not so sweet... once again boozy... resinous... slightly fruity & peppery... and above all boozy fragrance. A truly delight! On Fragrantica, the sole person who has 1697 as a signature scent – until now, at least – seems to be a lady (bravo, Arsenik!). With envy, I’ll say that 1697 is more on the masculine side, and definitely for the mature ones (30+). But, who knows...? If the perfume is gorgeous, the bottle – in solid red-brown glass, with a wooden cap – is per se an “objet d’art”. It also could be a weapon – for a furious wife, for instance :-) The brand new bottle that I bought was produced in 2012. All of you, from Frapin & Cie, don't even think to reformulate this marvel! Bref, 1697 is, in my opinion, one of the greatest perfumes of our time. A must have. Honored to meet and wear that enchanted scent, I’ll give him a 9++/10

BOY HOWDY! I purchased one of the original run of 1697 in the square bottles and I understand that it is a little higher concentration than the current one. I agree with Jack Hunter. This is one perfume that comes rushing out of the bottle in a blaze of notes, takes you by the shoulders and shakes you. You can't miss it and I really enjoy it. The most dominant first note is the booze. Think of a truly fine dark rum married to a fine old cognac. Loud, alcoholic, dark and heavy. A real stomach warmer. Mulling spice, dried fruit come next. Sweetish, jammy and wonderful. Next a bit of wood-the patchouli probably-starts to temper and round it. Less sweet and more spice. Dry down has a hint of tobacco and the alcohol comes back a bit making it seem that you have reached the end stage of a fine meal. One to try a sample of for certain. Mr D. is one very extremely talented nose who manages to have a very diverse stable of fragrances. Truly wonderful.

I'm lucky enough to have a bottle and it's the inverse of Spiritueuse DV, ie that is vanilla with a touch of booze, this is booze with a touch of vanilla. A bit simplistic but if you don't drink, it's an astonishing scent. I wouldn't wear it to the office, but for select company, or a day at home being cosy in the autumn or winter, this is gorgeous. True niche, beautifully made and long-lasting. Since I don't drink cognac and never threw it up, I'm free to enjoy the scent of pampered and distilled fruit. It is like Havana Vanille (Vanille Absolument) but without the tobacco. Ideal for a split between a group of friends as you'd be hard put, to use it up, and it's perfect for this time of year.