Mabel’s Tooth

I love this, but - if you have 4260F Dark Heart of Havana - it's redundant. 4160 sillage and longevity is better, too. Test, let them both dry down. I bought a partial bottle privately, so I don't regret the purchase.

So this immediately appealed to me because of the name. A smell with 'tooth' in the name conjures the dark and decayed rather than a pristine, titanium white, wall of enamel. I suspect Mabel's teeth are pretty fucked up. So this fragrance is quite the intriguing blend, to say it's a gourmand is a little reductive and far too simplistic. If I said 'Pissy treacle toffee' to you...what would you think? I know, I know, but in a GOOD way! I don't know if there's myrrh in this but if you wanted to replicate the effects of myrrh, (I don't know perhaps there's other resins in here and everything else making them lean in a myrrh direction?) this is what you'd probably do. Create a kind of nutty toffee accord (with god knows what materials?) and somehow not have it be oppressive or the crude caramel accords of many overly sweet and in my opinion, gross perfumes. This has that blackest, black of treacle, such it's sweet but it's not cloying, there's a depth to it. The mild pissiness is like a trace of shangrilide musk or something natural perhaps in here giving me that impression but it's so subtle, it just adds more animal warmth, doesn't detract from the overall cosiness. It has a kind of arid, witches broom, sweeping leathery immortelle into the mix, which again ties in with Freddie's language of florals, a thread which ties together even the most disparate and far from traditionally floral themed perfume in this collection, Mabel's tooth being the least 'floral' I'd say. I recall saying before (on IG) that Boys pushes out and is much more about your trail or aura, while the other two (Mabel's tooth being one) nuzzle in and become much more skin oriented scents. I really like it. It's complex original, it's not light and doesn't feel too finessed (although it probably was over a long time) that's not a criticism either, rawness is a virtue. Mabel's tooth is all about bass hum, although it does have some spikiness when initially sprayed, which I assume is from the aldehydes mentioned.

The worst time to wear a fragrance is in the height of spring, when hay fever might hit, affecting one's ability to smell. But on this warm, hazy spring day, Mabel's Tooth is taking a turn I never noticed. The tobacco and immortelle are over powering the sweetness of the toffee and dried fruit. This is the part of the scent I am craving and appreciating. There is a real skill so few people have when creating a scent with grassy plant notes, and Freddie and Pissara of Dusita are two who understand how to frame them. Freddie has literally taken the hay like dryness of the tobacco and dumped it in the lap of notes that lean into modern male designer scents, but brought a floral sprig of spring grasses into it all. The immortelle gives a bitter twist to the composition that blooms in the heat. A case of less is more when spraying. Too much amplifies the sweet notes, which defeats the purpose of supplying the tobacco and immortelle. I'm going to add a drop of Andy Tauer's Oud to this to see what it does. I want more of the lucerne dankness.

I really, really need this fragrance. My grandmother’s name is Mabel, and all these notes take me back to her. Warm and sweet and strong and a little rugged maybe... Where can I find it? Also, I need a tattoo to match, please <3