Noir Epices

Noir Epices, or Black Spices, is a beautiful homage to the deliciously dark spicy Orientals of yesteryear. Mouthwatering mandarin orange zest, pink roses and geraniums, with a heart note of clove peeking up immediately to the top set a stage of addictive and tantalizing flavors. The mandarin orange zest in particular - man, is that good! With that and the clove, and then cinnamon and nutmeg notes of the heart slowly rising up to greet the citrusy and floral top notes, I am instantly reminded of wassail. Wassail, for those who aren’t aware, is very similar to mulled wine or glogg. It is a wine or cider based hot beverage that is gently heated with massive amounts of orange fruit and orange peels, and the same spices present in Noir Epices. Notably missing is the apple fruit or red fruit boozy notes but the rest of it is completely there. Smelling NE makes me want to start the fireplace, curl up with a good book, and open the drapes to be in full view of the burnished oranges, reds, and golds of fall and early winter foliage or watch the snow fall. The orange accord carries through the top and the heart of the perfume, which is very noteworthy in that is remarkably long lived for a hesperidic. The woody and patchouli base notes bring a pepperiness that round off the whole experience, giving NE a pleasant earthy depth and a semi-coarse and slightly sandy texture. Smelling this newer Estee Lauder formulation compared to what I have of the original 2000 release, the base is a bit mild in this new formulation, lacking the big-ness of the patchouli and some longer-lasting spice notes particularly of cinnamon. It’s a miss of a significant margin, and a pity; the big, peppery, and earthy woody base in the original added more dimension to the entirety of the perfume that seems to be missing from this new formulation. When Malle launched his line it is definitely worth noting that he included a composition by Edmond Roudnitska, Le Parfum de Therese, which was/is stunning, and this, Noire Epices, by Edmond’s son Michel. To launch a brand with two compositions by members of the Roudnitska family certainly says a lot about who and what from yesteryear perfumes Malle values. Since Malle has a firm connection to Dior through his own lineage, this wasn’t that big of a surprise. In either case, in the original release or this new formulation, one must ask if Michel does credit to his namesake or if Malle’s vision allows him to do so. This does not stack up to Edmond Roudnitska’s masterpieces by any margin. But do I like it? Am I enjoying wearing it? Does it stay on message and deliver something convincing, of high quality and wonderfully crafted? One, I love it. Two, every time I wear it is a joy. Three, it is made very well with exceptional materials and care. So, therefore, I won’t judge Michel or Malle against the bar set by Edmond. What a terribly unfair and high bar to measure against. Instead, I will wear Noir Epices on this near fall day and be reminded of the beautiful smells that come from the orange orchards here in Northern California this time of year, the bronzed foliage, and the emotional closeness that comes with being near loved ones during the holidays. It’s an excellent perfume and one of the most under-appreciated in the Malle line.

Black Spices indeed. Noir Epices is one of Frederic Malle's pioneers. It was published back in 2000 with the first line-up of the EDPFM collection. It is interesting that along with Noir Epices from Michel Roudnitska, Le Parfum De Therese made by his father Edmond Roudnitska (made for his wife and Michel's mother - Therese) also came out in the same line-up. Old school perfume made with the idea of being and remaining old school. I believe that this fragrance could be the "old lady smell" for newcomers of our dear hobby, as well as for the audience that did not try too many Frederic Malle fragrances or niche in general. The opening is based on a very realistic sweet orange. Kind of more syrupy and bitter-sweet than a fresh orange as we can find in summer/citrus fragrances. In addition to a strong dose of orange, there is a good amount of black pepper, cinnamon and a lot of slightly animal cloves. There is also a gentle touch of geranium to soothe the blow of black spices. Throughout its life, this perfume has a thick creamy, slightly bitter note of nutmeg, which in some moments actually gives the impression of a regular full-fat walnut. After 30-60 minutes, we'll have a well rounded fragrance full of spices, orange, with calming geranium on a woody base of sandalwood and a modest dose of patchouli. It's a very interesting experience, never linear and never boring to follow from start to finish and special enough so that people will always ask you what it is... It's unisex, do not be afraid to wear it! I have to mention that I managed to get an older/vintage bottle of Noir Epices (80% formula) from the time before FM was sold to Estee Lauder, so my version is not reformulated, and the spices are a bit stronger because IFRA approved them back then, especially cinnamon and cloves. I have also tried a new version several times, which is almost identical after 45-60 minutes. The main difference is in that stronger and more animalic opening. Don't worry about the production date of the bottle - every bottle is great and the performance is the same. Same IFRA regulations back in 2015/2016 toned down Musc Ravageur (some would say destroyed, although that is not true) because of musk, cinnamon and cloves bans. Longevity is great, as with most FM perfumes. 12h + on my skin, then a couple of more as a skin scent. The projection is solid... it's around you all the time. I'm pretty happy with how it works under all conditions. Although you can link Noir Epices with a mulled wine, and therefore with the winter - it works great on hotter days because of orange and geranium. It's great for all seasons and for almost all occasions. Noir Epices personally knocked me off my feet when it was over 30° Celsius while I was with my wife in Paris, and because of that, in my book - Noir Epices is for nice weather, good days and even better memories.

In dedication of the late, great, Robert White. Back in the early 80s and way before the often OTT 'PC' effect took hold, I worked at Ford's factory in Amsterdam where we made Transit vans. The very noisy all-male environment reeked of sweat; smoke; paint; welding fumes and rubber. Nice. No, don't jump to conclusions just yet -please read-on... Annexed to the factory was a Health and Safety office and - THANK GOD!! - our H+S officer was female and incredibly HOT!! She could have been on a 70s Roxy Music album cover - probably the second album with that black panther. This lady was a real sex-siren, and when she occassionally strutted onto the shop-floor for H+S related matters, the entire work-force went totally bonkers: work stopped abruptly and packs of men bored shitless by assembling vans all day started to follow her: a frenzied troupe of overall-clad satyrs holding their wrenches like they were steel todgers! Then the animal noises started: some were barking like dogs, others 'eee-awing', and some just grunting. It was mental! They're probably all on SSRIs now. One day, just as work started, I cut my hand, and immediately I had to report this 'industrial injury' to her: an obligation that made the men I worked with intensely jealous as it meant that I was able to be in her office early that morning. As she leant forward to inspect my wound, I sat fascinated by glimpses of her obvious 'full-kit', and I could hear the men outside behaving just like those chimps on a Discovery channel nature programme when they start beating branches...men can be sick...and I sat there spell-bound by the unexpected intimate nature of the situation in which I was now immersed - my loins in a tangle - and the cloud of the divine perfume she wore, with its heady notes of sandlewood and patchouli, seducing my olfactory nerve synapses - just like this creation - "Noir Epices"!! So thanks Michel: it was heaven to go down memory lane again with this beauty you've created! 'Good perfumes make you think stuff like this!' (Robert White) Andyray For a descriptive account - top notes..base notes...etc, look at all the good reviews below. Ps Big thanks to Robert White for the quote from his must-read review of "Santal de Mysore" by Serge Lutens. This review first submitted 06/24/09 00:21:01

I purchased a 2 ml, and it's growing on me... I will get at least a 10 ml of Noir Epices soon. At first I didn't get, or understand the spiciness. And I don't care for this kind of, straight up rose fragrance. But the reason I'm liking it, and respect the art, blending and craftsmanship, even more now: The 4 spices, nutmeg, pepper, clove and cinnamon, are in a fragrance accord with the rose. The orange gives it a nice fruity touch, or zest. Alphairone review above reminded me of when we would stick cloves into an orange, orange peel. The two smelled great. You get some of that in Noire Epices, but with a great Rose here. That's what makes this a great Christmas and holiday fragrance. The spices are warm. The orange, Clove and cinnamon combo smell Christmasy. I was getting a slight leather note and a fruity facet of leather...? I think there is an unlisted Clary sage note in accord with the black pepper. Clary sage does smell like leather... Fall and Winter frag, great performance. But the brilliance of this fragrance, I have not yet described. Noire Epices, smells like a great Rose/ Oud combo fragrance! I recently purchased a 9 ml of Bortikoff, "Triad". Many say it's the best rose/ oud fragrance in the world, and most natural rose, and authentic oud. The 4 spices here, are mimicking a natural Oud scent. Thus it smells very close to Bortnikoff, Triad fragrance, without the poopy oud. This is not a heavy or stuffy rose, as his father's Therese rose fragrance. The spices are warm, and lifted by the rose accord. Update: 12/08/22. This has grown a lot for me. I'm thinking , masterpiece now. The fragrance accords are changing throughout the course of the fragrance. The cloves with the orange in the open-mid. Then I start getting a nutmeg, cinommon accord with the rose. Brilliant composition! I'm into the dry-down now, a few hours in... I'm getting a beautiful spicy vanilla, and patchouli coming through. Great dry-down as well. Rating: 9.5/10 God bless. John 3:16

What can you say about a fragrance that nails its purpose masterfully? The name implies dark, intense, and even spicy impressions and while there definitely is spice used, it is not as cold and impersonal as one would expect. Really, what you are getting is a roundhouse of a scent. Like a warm greeting from an old friend, you are met with the initial pleasantness of the gorgeous rose/geranium. This dances around a lovely slight orange note that isnt very citrus forward and really is there to accentuate and bridge the rose note to the next stage (which takes about an hour or more depending on your skin). The next stage as mentioned is all about the spices. The blending in this fragrance is really incredible (a line you will hear frequently in this review) as you don’t get any spice too forward. Rather you truly do get the spices all encompassing each other in a sumptuous symphony of lovely warmth and sharpness that marries to the mainly juicy rose scent and plays with each other for a solid few hours (5-6). Somewhere towards the end of the initial rose/spice stage the creamiest, most pleasant sandalwood makes its appearance. It transitions from the luscious rose to the sandalwood so effortlessly it is really a marvelous experience to sniff it as it happens. Again, the blending is just masterfully done here. Theres other notes listed in the base but it is really all about the sandalwood, it is the star and takes a fantastic scent journey to its conclusion for the next 2-3 hours. Total longevity about 8-9 hours depending on your skin. This is about as easy a reach as you can get. Don't get put off by all the spices, they really aren't as prominent as you would think given the name noir epices. The name suggests a stoic impersonal scent, but the experience is anything but

Noir Epices has this stellar opening of orange peels, rose, and geranium leaves, brimming with an almost festive effulgence. It makes me think of some old-time recipe holiday punch, served hot, like a Swedish glögg, with mulled wine, and a dash of black pepper for a bit of extra bite. The rose petals float on the bowl and I am mesmerized by it, until I close my eyes and just take it all in: you know hygge and all that good stuff, cozy sweaters, warm blanket, fireside snuggles, and hunkering down. I notice now that there are pomanders scenting the air: the kinds that would be featured in the Old Farmer's Almanac that my old man would have kicking around the house each year. Oranges are studded with cloves and dusted with nutmeg and allspice, and this fragrance is in the air as I sip the glögg. The cloves are laid out in all sorts of designs, in waves and ribbons, with pine cones flanking them. Peppery, cinnamic woods in the dry down that is reminiscent of classic Carons and Guerlains, wistful yet hopeful feeling. Noir Epices is misunderstood, perhaps because it is expected that this would be a powerful and bold experience, filled to the brim with spice and smothering the wearer. No, it's not that, and I am thankful that it isn't, there is breathing room for all these elements and anything more forceful would collapse the atmosphere into a vortex. I don't know and don't care about matte-caps and older versions, what is in this bottle pleases me, and that's what counts. I don't know and don't care about matte-caps and older versions, what is in this bottle pleases me, and that's what counts.

Dark. At first glance, reminds of 80’s Perfumes such as Poison ☠️ but it’s actually NOTHING of The sort. This is way more refined...less jarring...🌹 with some soft resinous🌳 balsam in The End. It’s lovely. It’s elegant. ✨ Yet, too dark & poisonous ☠️ for me. EDIT: so I took a perfume bath 🛁 in this while reading The reviews, then I applied it after The bath (oversprayed) and acquainted mYself with The citrus (delirious oranges to be exact - not 🍊 dark at all! What was I writing?!?) and pretty much doused mYself in it’s utter creaminess. Yes, it’s creamy, not zesty. AND spicy too. At The drydown I smell mY grandma💕 (R. I. P.), The only 👵🏻 Grandmother I met (The other one died before I was born. Before mY parents even married) but this is not matronly. Though I can see a 70+++ year old rocking this 💃🏻 oh yeah. Not so easily dismissible. Formidable signature for sure. I love that it’s not so popular, 💝 maybe it’ll get discontinued and become a legend, mY EXACT type of scent 🛒🛍 Hard to get, little known, Classic, polite enough but naughty. Spicy, irresistible. Goes with black, royal blues, magenta, emerald, glen plaids, cashmere, tweed, trench, coats, suits, jeans, or all black anything. It’s a crisp fall sunny day 🍂 Throughout The drydown I get glimpses of Nuit de Noel EXTRAIT which literally means “Night of Christmas” but more powdery and more mY grandma smell. In short, if Femme + Nuit de Noel had a kid, this would be their gorg daughter

How could Malle do this to me? How could he create another rose scent that is as warm, spicy, sensual, and sexy as Noir Espices; and which makes me question whether or not my indifference to orange was justified. Have I been unreasonable all these years? It's also unfair to confuse me in such a way that I struggle to decide which FM rose I prefer...Portrait of a Lady or Noir Espices. It's also completely wrong that Malle has made me fall more deeply in love with his genius! The staying power of Noir Espices is INCREDIBLE at 8hrs+ and the silage even better. It wraps anyone who comes within 5 feet in a warm and tender embrace. This fragrance makes me feel soooooo mysterious...sooooo sultry...and welcoming in a more gentle way compared to POL. POL makes me feel like a complete man-eater while Noir Espices makes me feel a bit more delicate. At the start of this scent, I immediately experience the rose-geranimum-orange combo in that order. And later...the clove-nutmeg-cardamon combo makes an appearance with vanilla and sandalwood playing quietly in the background, adding a soft sweetness to it. This is an interesting fragrance IMO because it evolves in a cyclical/merry-go-round fashion -- with the floral-spicey-sweetness taking turns throughout its wear. Okay, okay, okay. Enough. This is just a magnificent fragrance that I think is perfect for cooler fall and winter days.

A strange name choice for a very uncommon scent that debutes with a peppery orange rind combined with the fresh-aromatic side of clove and nutmeg. Here it is more a metallic-aldehydic than a woody-spicy type. Rose is also present along top spices, but it soon gets wrapped up in a sweet touch of cinnamon and geranium, everything packed over the scent's evolution in a distant woody-earthy-sweet background (ubiquitous Malle's patchouli, creamy sandalwood and cedarwood). What I realised over the first wearings is that I never smelled this combination before and took for granted Mr. Malle's own declaration about this scent being 'one of the most enigmatic scent of our collection'. It is an original creation, I give him that. More so, in this great formal Roudnitska creation, the dusty orange peel never really goes off, it gets intensified in the middle by the aromatic fresh spices and then slightly changed by the creamy woody notes. Very strong presence in the first 3 hrs., it mellows just a bit at the 4th hour mark, but overall it performs very good in terms of projection and longevity. My humble rank 9/10, recommended to both genres for its unicity and performances.

Update: I have recently bought this fragrance and it has replaced Samsara as my signature. I can't get enough of it! My search for a perfect scent is well and truly over. Original review: If you love spicy scents, look no further - this is your spice heaven! A huge perfume store close to where I work stocks a nice selection of Frederic Malle fragrances, so I often sneak in during my lunch breaks to sniff them. If they weren't so expensive I'd buy them all; but I have managed to narrow down my wishlist to two fantastic scents: Noir Epices and Iris Poudre. Noir Epices is totally unisex, maybe even a tad more masculine, but I'm so willing and able to pull it off! It's a gorgeous spicy orange scent, further enhanced with my favourite trio of rose, sandalwood and patchouli. Its sillage is absolutely monstrous: once I spray this on, all other scents fade to grey; and this beauty lasts, and lasts... and lasts... Sooner or later it's gonna be mine; however I do worry that, once I purchase this, I might as well throw away all my other perfumes, because I will only be wearing this one!

A fatal man, on whose skin you can breathe the weight of past consciousness and the foresight of what’s to come. Noir Épices by Frédéric Malle is a fragrance that perfectly mirrors the era of its release, coinciding with the brand’s founding year: 2000. Positioned at the cusp of a new millennium, it bridges elements of the past, subtly modernizing them while pointing toward a promising future of transformation. The fragrance revives classic olfactory motifs, such as the timeless spicy accord of clove, cinnamon, and vanilla, reminiscent of masterpieces like Opium by Yves Saint Laurent. Similarly, the interplay of fruity rose (orange) and spices harks back to Mitsouko by Guerlain, known for its iconic peach-and-spice contrast. The black pepper note in here is superb, however, the rose emerges as the undeniable star: juicy, dark, dense, and incredibly tenacious. It strides gracefully into an uncertain future with elegance and head held high—just as a true man would. Magnificent.

I love this for a longer time, smell spices (mostly nutmeg, cloves and a bit cinnamon), patchouli, and orange, alcohol (in a good way), geranium, mingled together in an almoust creamy dessert, all very natural and warm, however special. and the lovliest part: it has a complex and tenderly spicy, plummy and softly floral drydown. now wanted to get a FB, gave me a last whiff out of the tester and showed it to my husband yesterday. he turned away in total disgust: says it smells of garbage already in fermenting process, of rotten oranges, it's totally old fashioned, it stings in the nose and so on...I want to spare the lovers of EN from more... it's so crazy how different perception of fragrance can be...(and he's not even a chypre-hater or so, likes many scents I never thought he'd like and wears a FM scent himself) I won't buy it now, but he can be sure that I will test on him as soon as he forgot the name and look of the sample...

Noir Epices is full of artful contrasts: hot cinnamon and cooling antiseptic clove; woody patchouli and smooth soapy nutmeg; velvety rose, and clean geranium and orange; warm sandalwood and clarifying cedar; piquant pepper and simmering vanilla. This skirts the edges of my olfactive memory of my beloved vintage Opium (the '77 release) of which I haven't had a bottle of since 1994. The combination of clove, sweet petals and nutmeg whispers echoes of carnation and deep spicy incense. Smooth, sultry and comforting and so much better than the current formulation. I think I may have found a cleaner, modern replacement for my long-gone love. Noir Epices is perfectly unisex. Well complemented yin and yang energies, with just enough tension between the opposites to keep my interest. Ultimately, this culminates into a very smooth clove and sweet geranium perfume which I find thoroughly ardent and comforting.

An underrated gem from Malle... I love FM approach to perfumery, and I do own half of their offering. Noir Epices is clearly one of my favorites from the line. It opens with a bitter orange, lots of nutmeg and some kind of candied geranium. To me it is not dark or Noir, but bright and uplifting, being a dense scent. Something like Promise from the same house, not in aroma or notes profile, but in character, being this one a little softer and more refined and old school. People around you are going to like it... a lot!!! Performance in my case it's fine, not as good as I would liked it to be, but I found out that over-spraying this one works quite well in my skin. One of my favorites perfumes for Summer night outs. Uniqueness: medium-high Scent: 9.5/10 Performance: average (high if you over-spray) Would I buy it: Yes (part of my collection already)

Frederic Malle Noir Epice. This is a delicate perfume. There is orange, geranium and rose. It is an aged perfume. There is cedar, nutmeg, and clove. I find the composition to be nostalgic. Smelling Noir Epice is like finding your favourite fall coat from your college days. You remember how much you loved it, the good times associated with it, and how dashing it made you feel. You are happy that you found it. It still looks great, and you wonder why you haven't worn it in so long. But wearing it out that night, you notice that it is a little torn on one sleeve, and a bit worn out on the elbows, and that it is just not you any more. Noir Epice is an evocative and a romantic scent. The rose, woods, and spices are intoxicating. Despite being a bit aged and a bit too sensual for my taste, this one begs to be worn. Veteverian.wordpress.com

I love this fragrance! The first time I met it, I was just curious to try an oriental fragrance which could do without vanilla....but it manages: though I was told the quantity is really homeopathic (that's why I cannot even detect it!) Personally I regard it as a sublime 'potion'. A beautiful scent which reminds me not many other frags (or am I starting suffering from Alzheimer disease, so early?!?) I love all its phases from the beautiful - rich of promises - opening till the refined unexpected dry down. Obviously, my skin so cooperating in this context, is really convincing but all skins should be listened carefully and without prejudices. Good persistence and interesting the fact that it can be used in very different time of the year, without spoiling or losing its charm!

To place a review on here for this masterpiece would simply be reiterating, if not echoing the extensive and rich reviews already been posted. I can only but concur with the fact that this is an astounding masterpiece, that simply does not get tedious or lacks the luxurious scent of most of the classics offered by this line. It's simply amazing, luxurious and a staple fragrance of fine French Perfumery, only surpassed in likeness with Promise. But again, the 2 are not redundant to one another, nor is one superior to the other in my mind, it's just a similar symphony, performed by a different orchestra in a completely different setting, if you will, I can not add anything more. God bless....

Noir Epices is my most favorite perfume from the line and it is not for everyone that's why I love it so much. Carnal, Musc, Portrait, Vetiver etc. are so populer but this one is hidden treasure and I have never seen its marketing popularity at any media. Frederic Malle doesn't mention this in his interviews or instagram account as well. Maybe it is least seller? It can be too heavy, old fashion or out of fashion for some but this perfume makes me feel so special. Because it is special! Noir Epices is like an olfactive labyrinth that you can lose yourself in it. Because, It is very complex and mysterious... It is not for the faint of heart.

This darling is now no 1 on my wishlist. I have a sample that I treasure dearly. When I wear this I'm in spicy heaven topped with orange jam. I imagine myself impersonating a little devil with tiny horns, having a blast in an alternative club among decadent artists where air is heavy with tobacco smoke. I wear stiletto heels and I giggle at the funny and amazing performance on stage of Snow white and 7 dwarfs. The show is over and I'm near to passing out on a big couch that resembles a furry snail with one song in the background. (google parov stelar shine if you want the song I hear there)

Bitter orange and spices! The scent opens with a bitterly orange note (probably the result of geranium and clove). Very spicy and sharp at the beginning, becomes softer after a while. In the base I can perceive some metallic (or gunpowder) note as well. This brings to the spices the dark character mentioned in the name of perfume and makes the scent not sweet. Sweetness and bitterness are rather good balanced here. The fragrance can be worn preferably in the evening (and for shure in the cold season). As it’s not a typical comforting scent, it needs some courage to wear this perfume.