Uncut Gem

I guess we all approach this hobby of ours with different expectations and wants. I respect that, for some, they expect a house like Frederic Malle to push the boundaries and create something unique, although many FM’s aren’t that abstract. Whereas I don’t mind a niche fragrance being more mainstream as long as it’s executed well and demonstrates some tangible difference from a designer fragrance, such as quality ingredients and better performance, because it needs to have some justification for the higher cost. I also don’t mind some synthetics if I like their smell, so how does Uncut Gem measure up? As others have mentioned, it’s not an abstract or avant garde composition. I have a few fragrances that I’d class as high-class designer such as Bvlgaria’s Tygar and LV’s Immagination and I’d place this in a similar bracket although it doesn’t smell like them, it has that mainstream appeal. I like the fragrances I mention because they smell great, have good performance, are versatile and are of a higher quality than your average designer fragrance (although I question if those elements really justify such high cost). And I’d say the same about Uncut Gem, although I do feel, unlike many of the reviews below, that this still carries a certain Frederic Malle style, especially in the top notes. There’s a clarity that you just don’t find in your average designer fragrance. A bigger bandwidth in the notes with a greater sense of contrast. As such, for me anyway, this doesn’t feel too much of a departure from the usual FM fragrances as many seem to think although I understand why many have expressed disappointment in it. I get a zingy and bright opening from the citrus, bergamot and ginger, combined with an earthy bitterness that makes the opening feel quite sharp and fresh. As it dries down and that initial zingy sharpness subsides, the dry bitterness lingers, accompanied by some ambery warmth, incense, which increases the more it dries down, and a large dose of muskiness from ambroxan (or the like) although it still retains a degree of focus not seen in designer fragrances. At the very late drydown, when it’s faded to a light skin scent, I get a sweet animalic. There’s a nice juxtaposition between the bitter and dry elements against some sweetness and warmth. I’m not too keen on overly sweet fragrances but here the sweetness provides a nice balance to the otherwise dry elements of the fragrance. I can’t say the leather shows up massively on my skin, not in an obvious manner anyway. I like this. In fact I like it enough to consider getting a full bottle. it’s my favourite out of the other ‘masculine’ FM fragrances. I’m certainly not disappointed like many. It’s a good versatile fragrance that can be used in many situations and I can smell a quality that is far superior to your average designer scent. I think this is a fragrance that grows on you the more you understand it. In fact this smells more niche to me than say something like Tygar or Imagination because of the real clarity I’m getting from the individual notes and the various contrasts at play. Although I’m sure for most, £270 is pushing it way too much for what you’re actually getting in terms of uniqueness, which I understand. As for performance, I need to test it more but the longevity seems great with a moderate and noticeable amount of projection without being in your face. However, I’ve yet to wear it out. It’s certainly not a beast but I hope that it’s noticeable enough. After reading previous reviews, this was a very pleasant surprise, which goes to show that fragrances should be approached objectively - what’s one person’s poison is another’s antidote. Edit: I see some liken this to Creed’s Tabarome and there are definite similarities, especially in the top notes but the FM is drier and sharper. The Creed’s ambergris and sandalwood adds a salty creaminess that the FM doesn’t have and as the two dry down, the similarities grow much further apart. I prefer the Creed as it’s more interesting in its development but I like the FM too.

Frederic Malle Uncut Gem Eau de Parfum was created by Maurice Roucel, the same perfumer responsible for one of the fragrances closest to my heart, Lancôme Hypnôse Homme. This does not smell identical to the original Roucel version of Hypnôse Homme, not even close structurally, yet spiritually they occupy neighboring territories. I still find myself wishing Lancôme would someday re-release Roucel’s original composition, but that is another discussion entirely. Uncut Gem feels deeply personal, almost autobiographical. There is something unmistakably particular about Roucel’s taste, especially in the way he constructs aromatic masculinity without sacrificing sensual density. The fragrance feels self-aware. Deliberate. Nearly ritualistic in its sharpness. The perfume has an uplifting psychological effect on me. Not energetic in the simplistic sense, but clarifying. It sharpens consciousness. The metallic-herbal edge may initially read as abrasive to some, yet the sharpness exists in service of projection, longevity, and atmosphere. The sillage is immense. A room-filler, though not in the vulgar modern sense. It radiates rather than shouts. There is also a crystalline quality here that continually reminds me of Cartier Carat Eau de Parfum. Both fragrances seem fascinated by refraction, luminosity, and the sensation of light moving through glass or crystal. Carat interprets this idea through transparency and air, whereas Uncut Gem approaches it with heavier hands, aromatic density, and the impression of cigarette smoke lingering over polished surfaces. I imagine this fragrance belonging to a wealthy man with disciplined rituals. Someone who smokes cigarettes, enjoys fresh walks through quiet meadows at dawn, and still shaves carefully each morning despite having nothing left to prove to anyone. If you enjoy green, sharp, aromatic, and faintly smoky compositions, this is exceptional work. Not clean in the conventional sense, but tangy, refracted, metallic, and strangely elegant.

EN Uncut Gem truly is a raw diamond. Inside it lies the glimmer of something precious yet hidden—the sparkle of a brilliance not yet fully shaped, but already full of character. It’s wild, bright, slightly muted—but still untamed. The first impression is a flash: ginger strikes like a thought that hadn’t yet formed, suddenly igniting in your mind. Then come the bitter citrus and green angelica. It’s energizing, alive, with a thrilling edge of danger. This scent doesn’t comfort—it charges you. And then, everything softens. A depth unfolds: hints of leather and incense feel like time itself slowing down. This isn’t a fragrance that shouts. It dwells—like a subdued aura wrapped around you. The base—amber and ambrocenide—is dry, grounded, magnetic. It feels like stored energy, a storm gathering quietly. Uncut Gem wasn’t made for others. It’s for those rare moments when you want to say: “I am on the path—from a raw gem to a cut diamond.” ⸻ IT Uncut Gem è davvero un diamante grezzo. Dentro di sé custodisce il bagliore di qualcosa di prezioso, ancora nascosto—uno scintillio non ancora definito, ma già carico di personalità. È selvaggio, luminoso, leggermente ovattato—ma ancora indomato. La prima impressione è una scintilla: lo zenzero esplode come un pensiero non ancora formato, improvvisamente acceso nella mente. Poi arrivano gli agrumi amari e l’angelica verde. È un profumo che risveglia, vivo, con un bordo tagliente di pericolo. Non consola—carica. Poi, tutto si quieta. Si apre una profondità: cuoio e incenso sembrano rallentare il tempo. Questo non è un profumo che grida. È presente—come un’aura sommessa che ti avvolge. La base—ambra e ambrocenide—è secca, solida, magnetica. Un’energia trattenuta, come una tempesta che si sta preparando in silenzio. Uncut Gem non è fatto per gli altri. È per quei momenti in cui desideri dire: “Sono sulla strada—dal grezzo alla gemma perfetta.”

I've been testing this fragrance for more than a year now and I still haven't bought it. In the first few tries and up until very recently, I couldn't wrap my head around the exorbitant price. But these past couple of months that I've been wearing it from time to time (either from samples or wearing the department store tester), I've come to realise that there is nothing quite like it out there. It is the PERFECT signature scent. Opens up with a bright and sharp ginger and bergamot, while the cold, strong and deep base of ambers, vetiver and olibanum starts to unfold slowly, while musks anchor it to the skin, giving it amazing lasting power and sillage for what it is. It lasts all day on my skin, and it has a good moderate projection, while also leaving a pretty scent trail. I had indeed been influenced by the bad reviews, but honestly, nowadays I couldn't care less about what other reviewers think about it. It suits my skin, my personality and is one of the few signature scents that I would possibly buy. While it is a versatile signature scent, don't get confused please. This is much more than a "dumb reach" fragrance. Frederic Malle's marketing, although they say they're not for it, is always spot on. And all their fragrances are precisely marketed towards the audience that they say it is meant for. I will be buying this in the near future, and I'll enjoy every last spray of this modern sexy masterpiece.

I find this is probably the closest in FM's lineup that I would reach for as a daily. The colognes for me are too light and the orientals difficult due to the heat of the day. The bergamot ginger opening is sparkly with a hint of angelica for depth. I find ambrocenide has been paired really with the ginger here. OBVIOUSLY the rating here on fragrantica is unfair and this fragrance has been trolled excessively. However, having said that I'm disappointed by the price point this fragrance was introduced at and sells at. POAL and Promise obviously cost more to make and are way more special why should this match those in prices. I purchased mine via a discounter for around $180 even then it's a little of a stretch. If you like the ginger hit then might I suggest trying Oud Radieux by Cartier could easily give this a run for its money if elegance is a factor and is more unisex. If on a budget I really like the molecule 01 + ginger although even that at retail is ridiculous but at discounters for $50 great value. Edit 10 Dec 25: I have thoroughly enjoyed this purchase because it’s a very elegant but relaxed option which I find makes me reach for this more than many other FM fragrances I have. Still hugely mis-priced at retail. If you want an even more elegant daily I highly recommend Eau de Magnolia as well.

I can understand the reason lot of people hate this perfume. Simply, "modern" boys mostly wearing girly gourmand frangrances. As well, lot of old scholl kinda guys can't appreciate it due to "high" price tag, they have use to pay about 18$ for some "garbage" old school classics. But actually I am getting a little sick of all those haters who becamed haters thanks to other haters, that social poisoned circle work pretty well. "It smell cheap, not smells like others FM, etc.." Maybe i am crazy, but this is absolutely smells like FM, and i have the same oppinion since first time testing. Maybe it's just a marketing trick, but i can easly immagine Maurice Roucel smells on Uncut Gem. This is the smell of a real man (no matter of material or social position). '90s vibe is enriched by modern twist. Like a gleaming lights on the endless disco scene. So glamurous, sexy and classy, believe me, womans just love it, i get much compliments. Basicaly it's an amber/dry/sharp smelling fragrance, which someone can go wrong with this only if under 30, it's not for mama's boys and Kilian fans. I can't express how happy i am because FM relalesed Uncut Gem, it's becomed my signature fragrance.

I didn’t enjoy this the first two times I wore it, yet something kept pulling me back. On my skin it has excellent longevity—well over 12 hours—with solid projection. It’s far from linear, unfolding slowly hour by hour until it settles into warm, cozy amber territory. I understand the criticism that it isn’t as immediately distinctive as some other Frederic Malle fragrances, but I’m comfortable with that. I appreciate complexity in fragrance, even if I don’t always want to wear something overtly challenging. In that sense, I don’t mind that this isn’t especially edgy. It actually reminds me of my old bottle of Safari from my teenage years in the ’90s—back when I wanted to smell more sophisticated. They don’t smell the same, but Uncut Gem evokes a similar feeling, only reinterpreted in a contemporary way. It manages to feel both classic and modern at once. The more I wear it, the more depth I find here—especially for those of us who grew up with traditional masculine fragrances and were drawn to how they made us feel: confident, attractive, energized. This taps into that emotional memory while still feeling relevant today.

To me, this is a masculine, raw and angular fragrance with exposed materials. It’s sharp, spicy and technical. Old school masculinity with a contemporary finish. I didn’t get it at first, finding it too abrasive and austere. However, upon revisiting it lately, I’ve come to see it in a whole new light, appreciating nuances I had missed before. Perhaps my tastes have changed although I rather think my perception of fragrance has matured. Rather than a simple decision as to whether I like the smell, now I appreciate fragrances in a different way. I appreciate what the fragrance is trying to achieve. As well as being a versatile fragrance, suitable for a wide variety of situations and times, performance is very good. I layered this with Tygar today and rather than having the two fragrances smelling side by side, they combined to produce something new. It was a fantastic combination. The tygar softened the uncut gem and added some sweetness, whereas the uncut gem brought a structural backbone with more grit. They both complement each other very well. Worth a try for anyone who has these two fragrances.

💎Uncut Gem💎 is an absolute masterpiece. 🌟 Please, brush aside any comments about the price; such criticisms are baseless, as Frederic Malle's creations have always been in this range. For a 100ml bottle, it's even more value for money than Le Labo's city exclusive 50ml. (On a side note, I find the latter overwhelmingly synthetic to the point of toxicity. I've been using Uncut Gem as a remedy after an unfortunate purchase of a Le Labo city exclusive. Spoiler alert: all are simply horrible. 🙅♂️) When we talk about niche fragrances, Uncut Gem stands out and offers great value. Now, focusing on the essence of this perfume: It's brilliant because it's uniquely crafted for men. Yes, you read that right! It's not the usual unisex scent (which often lean towards feminine notes) nor is it the stereotypical masculine perfume laden with heavy oud and the like. Instead, Uncut Gem is a blend of classic, delicate, and captivating notes that linger beautifully. 🌬 Its projection is commendable too. To sum it up, it's the epitome of perfection, and it's swiftly becoming my new signature scent. 🔥🙌

I must say when I first smelled it I enjoyed the fresh/ ginger spicy opening and the vetiver and spicy slightly leathery mid, but felt the base was generic, synthetic and uninspiring and frankly overpriced. As I spent two weeks with it wearing it everyday I started to pick up on different facets and really started to enjoy it more and more. It’s been 2 months since I tried it and have bought a 100ml bottle and now it’s part of my normal rotation. It’s higher quality than I initially thought as well. I Find it as a great daily user but a little too expensive. It’s great for spring, summer and fall I feel. I also realized that it projects more than I initially thought. I was at work and a lady about 8 feet away said she had been smelling something good all day and I was it. I had actually gone nose blind too it. If you can grab a bottle off of eBay, a good price I think it’s worth wearing for a couple of months and see if you like it.

I'm so surprised that this is disliked by quite a lot of people here! I was given a sample vial, fell in love instantly with the first try and bought a 100ml bottle within 48hrs! It smells so clean, fresh but warm; virile, sexy but controlled. Most of the negative reviews here state that the scent smells synthetic, I actually agree that. It reminds me of the Japanese laundry liquid that I've bene using, so I guess I just have a thing for this kind of synthetic clean scent as I also love Blanche by Byredo. On my skin, the opening ginger/ citrus notes would only be dominant for a very short time, the kind-of-synthetic amber/ wood/ vetiver notes would emerge pretty quickly, and it would just stay that way for the rest of the day so it's pretty straight-forward and linear to me. The only downside is it's REALLY pricey. To all the people who don't like it, please tell me what the better citrusy + woody fragrances are.

After long 14 years Roucel strikes again! Everything is magical about this scent, name, nose, story behind it and overall the way it smells. Conceptual sexual fragrances is something what define a style of Maurice Roucel. Uncut Gem is also full of sexual energy presented in a bit unusual way , throught the freshness. Its open with a blast of fresh ginger which is linked with bergamot and angeliques and create fresh spicy and sharp smell. Once it goes in drydown becomes more woody and ambery. From the deepnes dry vetiver is linked with the huge dose of olibanum and creates a something like "dreamy" oriental vibe. Final sensation of itself is a bitter fresh, zesty, spicy, ambery scent. I'm sure Uncut gem is gonna be a huge compliment getter. This how i immagine that real lovers should smells like. Keywords to describe it: Electrique, wilde and masculinity.

Super elegant, super refined, excellent manly perfume (which would be beautiful on anyone really), light yet deep, warm yet fresh, a truly remarkable creation, perfect for any season as it has so many different facets. If I had one word to describe it it would be longing. I don't get the negativity here. This perfume would be better appreciated on skin, letting it develop and reveal its treasures. I find that the notes here are a bit confusing. This is not some eau de cologne or a citrusy fragrance. It is a mix of so many different worlds, which seem familiar and comforting as if personally created just for you. As if it is made up of many different notes once it settles down it is linear, which in my opinion contributes to the secure feeling this fragrance creates. Longevity and projection are also incredible, yet it is never overwhelming.

It was a pleasure to try Uncut Gem in Paris last week! Uncut Gem is amazing and it something which you would not expect from Mr. Roucel. Deep, rich, woody, citrus with some good amber elements. Is it bigarade or is it grapefruit? It is definitely bitter and bold. It is strong. It is refreshing, but deep and rich as well. There is a lot of incense which makes me happy as I am a huge incense fan. It is definitely "something new" and I think that you'll like it as well. Even though I think that FM is completely unisex, this one is a masculine scent and it is very loud and present in the air. I've tried it twice on my skin and the lasting power was phenomenal, like 24 hours and it's very potent and the projection is insane. It's in the POAL price range which is somewhere around €300. We'll be able to buy it in September/October this year!

This is way too expensive, but I don't get the hate this is receiving, because litteraly every other juice of the Malle catalogue is way too expensive too. On it's own it is a great scent, way better than Sauvage or Aventus ( I think this is the Malle attempt of creating an easy to wear and to appreciate fragrance like those 2). Huge blast of ginger in the opening, followed by clean musks and a smoky/rubbery tone given by angelica. The first 3-4 hours are really pleasing, it's juicy, piercing and elegant. It kinda reminds me of French Lover, with a citrusy ginger twist. The drydown is more boring that's true, lots of musks and amberwood. This fragrance also lasts at least 9 hours on my skin with a great sillage.

Every time I have to review a Malle I'm biased. I find it a classy brand, with creations that I love for the most part. Uncut Gem is one of them. A fragrance that opens in a sparkling, pungent, cold way, and reveals a heart, if we want to define it that way, masculine and hard, with beautifully harmonized vetiver and leather notes. I would absolutely wear it, I find it a singular and unique creation. A rough diamond, which hides its light and beauty, which I can perceive here. For me, suitable for the warmer seasons, medium sillage and persistence. “The truth is that everything that can be said about a diamond is about its imperfections. The truly perfect diamond would be composed of only light.”

I was in Holt Renfrew in Canada, smelling the day away in the fragrance section, when I found this gem *pun intended*. I was looking for a perfume version of Loewe's Tomato home fragrance and luckily stumbled upon this in good old Frederic Malle. I don't know why, but for me it smells like tomato-based scent--but I am a total newbie. I found this very refreshing and vegetal. It smells like a spring vegetable garden in the morning when the mist wafts the fragrance in the air. Like the other reviewers, I am quite surprised by the negative reviews. But I've learned to take reviews here with a grain of salt.

Been wearing this a few months now, and I love it when that rare scent ticks all the boxes. This one gives you ginger and spices, while keeping things refined; it’s no spice bomb. It gives you sunny citrus, a touch of powder and some fresh woods for a clean feel, balancing out the spiciness. Uncut Gem is also blended absolutely perfectly; so smooth. A big plus: It smells sophisticated and posh, the way Sycomore and Ormonde Man exude class without being dull in any way. Also, it comes across as unique, something I don’t get the chance to say very often at all. Excellent staying power. Gets 9 / 10.

The wolf that breaks away from the pack thats exactly why uncut gem has a low rating and people dont understand it Because Uncut Gem doesn say Love me im so sweet its not a plea its challenge. when you spray that scent you create a salty airy distant yet incredibly alluring breeze around you. You dont burst into the room you enter and people are drawn into that cool rough and masculine aura of their own accord out of curiosity while sugary perfumes scream at the top of their lungs uncut gem smiles silently from behind its glasses.

Holy shit i fucking love this! If you enjoyed dior homme Sport, this is just Cleaner, mysterious, more refined, definitely has an EDGE to it, i get the name now!! its a Gem thats So gorgeous as it is that going through cutting it will take from its value! I get the lovely citrus and ginger, super refreshing! But oh lord! Once that vetiver hits, you are in that clean musky vetiver land. And you dont wanna leave! It juat smells super mysterious and edgy, its my current favorite! Confidence booster for me lol 😂

Absolutely stunning fragrance! The perfumer Maurice Roucel originally developed this fragrance for himself as his individual scent. It is a very sharp, woody, leathery, ambery, yet fresh and spicy too. There is a perfect balance between the components, so professionally blended. Woody and dry, bit animalic, yet elegant and fresh. Unique, very masculin but sofisticated too. In my eyes it is an absolute masterpiece. I am really addicted to this smell. And it last so long and projects.

So fresh yet so sophisticated. Clean but with so many layers of quality ingredients. It was love at first sniff. I really don't understand why all the negative reviews. Perhaps many who favor Malle prefer classic fragrances? Either way, I find Uncut Gem elegant and modern. This could easily be a signature scent. I can see why many favor it for day and warmer weather but it could easily be worn in colder temps for a burst of sunshine on a dreary day. So in love with this fragrance!

Unique take on vetiver. Not an earthy composition. It’s a modern take with some citrus and musk. Nothing challenging here. Didn’t blow my doors off and make me bust like Portrait of a Lady did. This of course is my initial impression from an official Malle sample. I will spend more time with it before I give a proper review. This one isn’t leaving a scent trail like POAL does. Damn this house makes some high quality juice that’s for sure. Very artistic and created with passion.

I’m in the minority here it seems as I LOVE this. Not at full retail mind you (got a good deal). But this instantly reminded me of the original Tom Ford For Men only with noticeably high quality ingredients , citrus and ginger (I’m a sucker for this combo) and a bit more green woodiness than the TF (Angelica and Vetiver). I def get some incense and of course musk. To me this is slightly mature but who can say. It’s very fitting for me at age 39.

Such a controversial fracance 🤣 that's sign that there must be something special about it. First just want to say that I really enjoy it. This is a nice clean and mature freshie with depht and a creaminess in the back, it's so easy to wear all year every ocasion .Design or niche... doesn't make any difference ....and the price shouldn't be debate all the prices from modern perfumery are obscene..

I honestly don't get the hate here. This is an awesome scent. The orange and Ginger is very strong here. Sure, the projection and duration is a bit weak, but it's beautiful. You can take points away due to the price, but why buy any frag at full market price? Uncut gem is a great signature/ grab and go scent. Everything doesn't have to be a spectacle.

Top French lover with added ginger and citrus Base Dans Tes Bras with lingering amber, vetiver, and a suede like leather. The only thing to really hate is the price tag. In no means a masterpiece but a good masculine. FM fragrances aren’t for everyone and perhaps this offering will serve as a bridge into folks discovering the brand

This is a great masculine fragrance and a signature scent worthy. I never understood the bad feedback on this one. They really nailed what they are trying to do here, a scent for a masculine man, that's it. Fresh, spicy and quite earthy. Perfect for an every day scent. I love this.

A very masculine leaning perfume, this is what a man should smell, bitter citrus, vetiver, musk, I love this, duration is 8 plus hours on my skin, don't be fooled by all the hate reviews because its not something groundbreaking, try it for your self and you'll see its a real Gem

The haters are crazy, this is a wonderful spicy, citrusy olibanum scent. For me, it has to be worn on warm skin. For an updated version of the same thing, but different enough to be worthy in it's own right, check out Thameen's Bohemian Infusion (also by Roucel).

What can I say that haven't already been said? Maurice Roucel is a true artist, and this is real work of art. This is a real man's perfume. If you are tired of that boring citrus fragrances, try this one. You won't be disappointed.

No, it isn’t groundbreaking but it is great. This is an excellent scent with really good longevity. The ginger, angelica and nutmeg combines with the citrus to make a great spicy bright scent that holds its own in all weather.

I love this fragrance and don’t get all the hate. I’ve been looking for an everyday signature scent and I think I have finally found it! It’s very fresh, clean, and masculine without being overly citrusy.

Dont understand the comments here. Uncut gem is for everyday use, office friendly and to me, very special and very unisex parfume. One of Malle's favourites!

most of the people says that MUSC RAVAGEUR is his masterpiece , i have both and i think this fragrance UNCUT GEM is REAL GEM for men , anytime anywhere ..

@leatherorrisviolet I believe it’s out 3rd of October, had emailed FM a few months back and they said it would be on this date.

Masculine fresh scent with some old school vibes. Its giving gentleman/bad boy. 5/5 for what it is.

Masterpiece. Very smooth and well blended creamy-fresh scent. Very good performance. 10/10

I can't believe it. Really the worst perfume of the brand. Poor sillage and longevity.

My favorite contrarian take.... I love this electric and magnetic fragrance.

Yes so I own this now. Frederic Malle would rather have me buy a 10ml and return if I don't like it, than simply supply a sample, but hey ho, jokes on me because when Celine did that with a full bottle, I ended up keeping it, looks like this will be the same. Is that because I love it? No. Uncut gem is not the most fascinating or creative olfactory artwork in the world, but artwork it is nonetheless. If this was released by a 'lesser brand' you might dismiss it as weak, high street, rubbish, hell some Malle detractors might feel this is par for the course. I don't. I feel he's (they've) very deliberately made a fragrance here which almost cocks a snook at those designer realm 'freshies' I mean perhaps I give FM too much credit but I always feel everything is deliberate and so close to the hackneyed stuff I'd usually moan about from some new indy brand, but somehow, low key parody, while also elevated. Malle has almost established a kind of immunity from criticism, and not because I blindly love everything he does but because the perfumes really are clear visions. I mean, anyone who moans about this was quite clearly told in the blurb that it was ambroxan heavy and kinda citrus, with a masculine twist, (Basically they prepared you for it not being all that exciting) and that's what it is. There's a strange effect when it's applied a kind of olfactory swell, where the sea has gone out and the waves are about to come back in all at once. It's a kind of anosmic void, you know stuff is there and there's a topnote of sorts but it's the effect of modern, aroma chemical affairs like this. I smell a kind of mandarin orange and grapefruit citrus which is extremely pleasant and then the relentless, woody powder of ambroxan and hedione, all diffusive and pushing a little twinkle of gingery spice on a breeze. I do get a kind of roughness and perhaps that's the 'uncut' element to what seems like a pretty clean, and precisely cut stone in the main. It is ever so slightly leathery, you might think I'm mad for saying that but it has those, kinda masculine, fumes that tenacious, fuel effect of woody ambers just finishing off this composition. I don't like looking at notes and the description so far is only by my nose and the initial marketing I read and swiftly forgot, but I glanced at the notes here and angelica is interesting because it's included in two other predominantly masculine Malle's Geranium pour monsieur and French Lover. I do get some of it's bright, slightly translucent green, charm in this. I could just be imagining that because I saw it listed though? Point is, (and striving to be as objective as possible here), if this was released by Davidoff or Burberry as some transitory outlier line to the flagship, destined to end up in bargain buckets before the years out, I'd give credit where it's due and say it's still a good perfume. Not hugely exciting but I'd give it credit for having a classiness and great use of common materials to make something more effective and appealing by doing LESS. However that's not what those kind of companies want in the main, they are committee'd into popping that bubblegum or 'EVERYTHING' note from Eros, or Dylan Blue or whatever?? Had it been made by Memo, (which it could well have been) I'd still accept it's appeal but I'd roll my eyes at paying some daft sum of money for the pretense of the 'world's finest raw materials', but at least you get a fancy bottle right? Malle strips all of that away, as a welcome artist who strips all of that away. Yes you're paying for the name, (outragously so with The Night...etc....) but that's the case with everything and I hold Malle in high regard even when he (and Roucel) make quite an average perfume, which is kinda what Uncut gem is. Just to speak to it's masculinity again for a moment (clearly part of the brief) there's something about these understated, fresh perfumes which seem to be popular with the bro crowd and Uncut Gem might just be a hit in the same way Luis Vuitton L'immensite or Dior's Bois D'Argent, you just never can tell what is going to gain traction. I suspect this perfume is one I don't immediately connect with as such, but think is very nice but will likely grow in stature and my affections.

Huh. Interesting. This one definitely doesn't smell bad. It is pleasant, to a fault perhaps. My biggest beef with it is not how synthetic it is. A lot of folks on here seriously decrying it for being such a strangely synthetic, boring addition to this line...ambroxan, hedione, iso e super, synthetic woody ambers, etc are the building blocks to pretty much EVERY fragrance in this line and in contemporary perfumery. My main issue is that it doesn't really have a "point of view." There doesn't feel like a star note or a plot around which all these synth notes are sculpting an image...which is also a departure from Roucel's other scents for the brand. Musc Ravageur is a genius, overdone exploration of vanillin and ethyl vanillin (even though it's loaded with hedione, iso e super, synthetic musks, etc.). Dans Tes Bras...not a fave, but it's an intriguing study of cashmeran and ionones. In Uncut Gem, there's a lovely gingery, citrusey zing in the top contrasting with a slightly vanillic amber that seems to quote Gucci Envy for men, but much lighter. Then some woods and vetiver in the base that quote Malle's own French Lover. Strangely enough, the scent that lasts the longest on my skin (besides the general prickly sensation of what I guess is ambrocenide?) is this pineappley note that smells like the oft-used-in-masculines synthetic galbanum aromachemicals like Allyl Amyl Glycolate, glycoflor, galbex, etc., that are SUPPOSED to have both pineapple and galbanum nuances, but really just smell like canned pineapple to me. This isn't a bad smell. In fact--I think one or more of these aromachemicals is used rather creatively in Music For a While. It's key to many virtuosic "masculines" like Green Irish Tweed. That said, it's an odd smell to feel like the focal point of a fragrance once the lovely topnotes poop out and as the hazy vague drydown comes in and out of focus. I've only had a couple of wearings, and I'm eager to see if my opinion changes if I wear it for a week and see if it "becomes" me. Right now it strikes me as pleasant but a bit aimless.

Well, I've got intrigued reading the comments, trying to imagine the smell on the basis of words and descriptions (which is tricky). The expectation was something synthetic, sharp, as they added a crystal ambrocenide; an additional ginger spiceness; the cooling effect of an olibanum. Little did I know the perfume ended up, to my nose smelling like seaweed... I got a sense of a showergel which lasts for a long while. Maybe the anosmia kicks in from the start? I have no idea. Roucel states himself that the perfume has a great longevity on the skin, and I have tried it out on clothing. The other curious part which I thought on, is the ambiguity of the name: an uncut gem. I guess this might be a reference to the male genitalia. Even in the short clip on the perfume Marlon Brando is being shown as an idolized personification of the perfume. The male bottom part is shown clearly. The ideal man to Roucel and Malle seems to be a man of contrasts, of strength and meekness, which the perfume offers by its elegance. Looking back on the smell I do see why people are put off. The perfume has a vintage quality in the sense that it smells of a fine soap; a showered Marlon Brando you may say. The perfume is well blended to my nose. Malle states in the clip the way he tried to push the perfume from the state of a raw sketch into a painting: the perfume ends up being an impressionistic painting. You may guess parts of the blended notes, but in a vague way; making the perfume again vintage-like. To my nose, on a paper blotter, I pick up the opposition of warm ambery/leathery notes opposing some green notes. Overal it smells of seaweed to me with a warm core spiced up with ginger and angelica. Another question that's bothering me: why should we compare this perfume to the previous creations of the Frederic Malle brand (now owned by Estée Lauder). To my nose this is a classic, as is 'Musc Ravageur'.

In its complete banality this stuff is utter genius. I think that despite the ‘personal scent’ story that Malle tells about Maurice roucel, The final product they created is a perfected version of the very generic blue scent every big fashion house sports (see blue de Chanel, Dior sauvage and the likes). The structure is completely banale and trite: A generic-masculine musky/woody amber with nutmeg + couple cold spices and herbs and a freshy opening. Completely unimaginative, totally unrevolutionary. However I do think that UNCUT GEM is a perfect market success, rather than a true piece of olfactory art, which indeed made it a popular scent. Taking a simple, corny structure and just exalting it with amazing raw materials and a strong formula with great longevity, this is very much like COLUMBUS’ EGG. A great idea which was in front of everyone’s eyes but nobody thought of doing, And indeed only the best did it: Malle. As much as I find this scent slightly annoying and unlike my own taste, I cannot stop liking it and admiring it every time I smell it or wear it. A true and complete elevation of the simplest of mass market successes. Simple, stupid but so compelling I can’t help calling it a stroke of genius. And tbh if you don’t come from high end niche taste, it smells pretty good (; Worth a travel size I think (; For whenever I wanna feel like that arrogant guy I am not (;

This is very intriguing, it feels like I have smelled it before somewhere but don't know where to take it. That top note of ginger and bergamot is so similar with what you can find in let's say Creed Himalaya, Top note of Creed Tabarome, some Paco XS and even some parts of YSL L'homme (the original). I would have expected to have more transitions and settle into something heavier but it stays pretty much the same the entire time. Maybe a few hints of amber and musk but it is so subtle that you can't really feel it much. Not sure if I like to that linear but definitely I like that the initial top note stays much longer. Longevity is very good on my, tried this yesterday and left it overnight on my hand and I could smell it in the morning - so 12h at least. It projected the whole time from my arm. Now, money, let's talk money. It costs around 300 euros which is in realm of Roja and more expensive than Creeds (maybe TF but they are overpriced). I am not sure it is worth that much money, if it would have been in the same range as other fragrances from FM say French Lover then it would have been definitely worth the money. I know people will judge this but I would probably go for Creed Viking Cologne :) But nonetheless it is a really good fragrance, definitely high quality, definitely versatile, masculine and all you need, it is just too expensive.

Uncut Gem gets a lot of low ratings which it doesn't deserve. The scent is very similar to Dior Homme Sport 2021 - a nice, sporty masculine fragrance. A general description of either is a fresh, citrus-y start followed by a dry woody dry down with no sweetness. Where Uncut Gem is not as good as Homme Sport is the initial citrus blast. In Homme Sport, it smells strong and fresh and totally natural. Uncut Gem, OTOH, while strong and fresh smells more artificial - like a citrus cleaning product. Although, to be fair, that unpleasant opening doesn't last too long and it settles down. What I liked better about Uncut Gem is that it definitely has a more dirty or animalic smell which Homme Sport lacks. This aspect isn't too pronounced, so Uncut Gem still is a sporty fragrance that would work in hot weather. Performance-wise, Uncut Gem get the same performance as Homme Sport with less juice. That is, to get strong projection and longevity of around 9 hours, I have to really over spray Homme Sport unless I'll be wearing it in very hot weather. Uncut Gem did not need as much to achieve the same. All that said, the dirty aspect of Uncut Gem isn't THAT much better that I'd be inclined to buy a FB. Even taking into account over spraying, I can get 200 ml of Homme Sport for $160 while 100 ml of Uncut Gem goes for $275 at discounters.

At first, Uncut Gem starts with a generous dose of ginger. In the opening, a long-lasting bergamot with slight spicy facets but nothing overtly warm. Bracing, dry and bitter, the angelica combined with an airy note of incense evokes a pleasant aromatic smoke and reminded me instantly of French Lover. The fragrance is rather linear, with its drydown being a straightforward musky and (in an abstract kind of way) woodsy trail on the skin. Something plastic. Easily abrasive even, reminding me of my less favorite aspects of (oh, what a coincidence, the same perfumer) Dans Tes Bras. "Aloof" immediately came to mind when I smelled it. Sure, this would suit a man better than a woman but talking about "ultimately masculine", rugged, rough, muscular or whatever is more pompous than relevant. Basically, it would make a nice (but overpriced) Fall/office-safe fragrance. I like it but it's not a love. For those who care about this, the projection is moderate but it seems to last for a long while. Anyway, let's wait a couple months for the arrival in boutiques to test this more thoroughly. Edit after a couple more tests: nah, it's nice but I don't really care about this one.

Frederic Malle Uncut Gem (2022) - mandarin woody amber - Leave it to Malle to be the talk of town when it came to his contribution to the woody amber family. Up front, I enjoy woody-amber molecules from their beautiful sillage to their “skin but better” effect on the wearer. #mauriceroucel starts the perfume with sharp & jagged edges of a woody-amber molecule meets Mandarin orange and Ginger. I also get an herbal Angelica heart. Labdanum creates a powdery leathery quality to support the main accord. The vetiver and woody-amber incense notes are predominant in the drydown hinged on well-made white musk accords creating projection and tenacity. Did the world need another woody-amber? No. Should this be part of the Malle collection? Could be. To appreciate it, the wearer has to acknowledge their unconscious bias against this ingredient and just experience its purpose in the first place - a casual, fresh masculine showcasing woody ambers. Malle knew he didn’t have anything under this genre and if the issue was it wasn’t polarizing enough...dear reader, good or bad press is still press.

The opening here gives a nice mix of orange and bergamot along with ginger, nutmeg and angelica. About 20 minutes in the vetiver and olibanum join in along with an undertone of musk. It's rather pleasant. A couple of hours later the citrus fades and the amber moves in to olfactory reach. What you have is a lovely masculine scent. The projection is moderate for the first several hours. The perfume sticks on the skin for well over 10 hours so you get a really long lasting scent. I'd say this is pretty versatile - works day or night; autumn, winter and spring. Not sure I'd wear it in the summer though. It's definitely a like and a thumbs up. Those who expected a Musc Ravageur or French Lover are really missing the point (and why would you try and replicate perfumes you already make? That makes little to no sense at all!). This is a much moire subtle and smooth approach to things. The only problem really is the price: £190 for 50ml or £275 for 100ml is simply way too much.

After so many attempts sampling this I came to the conclusion that Uncut Gem is a good fragrance.. but it's not "worthy" of the Frederic Malle sticker, or being in a collection among Dans Tes Bras, Musc Ravageur, Portrait o a Lady, L'Eau D'Hiver etc. Clearly from the reviews in every platform it's obvious that Malle fanatics hate this, and people that are not really into niche or vintage smelling fragrances love this; it's clear that Estee wanted something mass appealing, while having some trendy aspect. In a world that praises Ganymede, BR540 & many other compositions with overdosing rude aroma chemicals, they thought that the aspect needs to be something that is absurdly sharp, but somehow it works. In other words, Uncut Gem is the mass appealing fragrance that Estee needed to have "modern audience", like the name Frederic Malle wasn't enough.. As for the scent the only word that can sum it up is electric as many others have said.