Spanish Leather Cologne

A surprising number of reviewers seem to focus on leather, perhaps not strange for a cologne named «Spanish Leather». But Spanish Leather is not constructed to imitate leather, and being created in 1902 it did not contain modern aroma chemicals such as Isobutyl Quinoline. It is rather a concept or a composition that derives from «Peau d’Espagne» meaning exactly the same. Historically, sources on Peau d’Espagne can be found from approximately the 17th century, and to me it seems as if Trumper took inspiration from the recipe found in the 1872 _Encyclopedia Of Practical Receipts And Processes_ by William B. Dick. His recipe is not for a cologne, however: «Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather. Take of oil of rose, neroli, and santal, each 1/2 ounce; oil of lavender, verbena, bergamot, each 1/4 ounce; oil of cloves and cinnamon, each 2 drachms; in this dissolve 2 ounces gum benzoin.» Pieces of leather infused with this composition could be placed in your pocket or in your drawer and last for years. So it was not an effort to hide unpleasant scents from the tanning process, or anything. If you look at Trumper’s own site instead of here, you will also see that the notes listed correspond almost 1:1. At any rate: Trumper’s cologne has in my view very successfully taken that composition into their barbershop and added some soapiness that reminds me of the soap bar «Imperial Leather» that my grandfather brought home from the UK in the 1970s. Compared with the quite lighter Acqua di Parma’s Colonia from 1916 it is obvious to me that amplifying the soapiness in colognes was quite a thing in the early 20th century too, and everyone interested in historic aspects of perfumery should try both, at least for reference. I personally love the way SL works as a pseudo-animalic, pseudo-leathery, barbershop scent. It sort of strikes that special balance where the rose, geranium, lavender and musks play together in such harmony that you stop trying to single out the components, but just enjoy the product as a whole. 4-6 hours tenacity, a bit longer as an intimate skin scent. Smells very traditional, but there are great nuances here still setting it apart 124 years after its release

I thoroughly enjoy Spanish Leather but the price is high most places for something that isn't well known outside of wet shaving circles or done by a designer/niche house. It's also hard to come by a legitimate retailer outside of the UK. That means if you go the international route you'll be looking at some heafty shipping and possible import fees as well. I was lucky enough to pick up a 50ml bottle of the spray cologne for $50 from a shaving supply site I frequent online here in the US. Still a bit pricey to me. That said I'm no snob, I own some expensive high end fragrances and hundreds of cheaper ones ranging from drugstore aftershaves to offerings from Coty and the like. I just wish the larger bottles were easier to find and readily available like other brands we often find discounted. As for the scent Spanish Leather is absolutely stunning. It's a warm herbal soapy masculine scent that transports you back a hundred years in an instant. The longevity and performance are great as well. I'll often catch this wafting around hours later which means others can definitely smell it on you. This reminds me of my grandfather, a dark Mediterranean man who was tough as they come but also kind and humble and called movie star handsome. He grew up dirt poor the youngest of 11 siblings all working their hardest to survive. A man who at 18 went and served four years in some of the worst battles of the Pacific during WWII with the USMC and remained a caring person who was always there to help others but could bring down hell if you crossed his loved ones. He built his own businesses from the ground up and was regarded highly by all who knew him. His name still has a legacy that people bring up when mentioned to this day. That's the type of person this scent manifests to me. Someone who's a gentleman, a leader, a scholar, a legend, and a badass all in one.

A nice, clean, spicy leather without much of the fluffy sweetness or harsh mustiness that bother me in most leather scents. The beginning is very alcohol-laden compared to other Trumpers scents, but this dissipates soon enough. It has the lighter parts of Bel Ami that I like, without the dirtier, dated parts that come through at the end of a good sniff. If the name hadn't clued me into the subtle leather, I would have almost just called it a spice scent, especially toward the base. It's a bit more high-pitched than I'd like, with a honey-like aspect, but the strength is just right (strong for Trumpers!) and the mix of spices is pretty nice. I recall Truefitt and Hill's SL being even more of a spice-only, low-leather scent, and because of that it's closer to my normal preferences, but realistically the Trumpers is a good leather scent for me.

It seems to me that the cities in Italy all have a distinctive fragrance. Rome smells of mouthwatering Italian cooking, Venice of salt sea air with a splash of a Negroni cocktail. Then there is Florence. Right after it rains in Florence, and I am walking through the open-air leather market I am engulfed with one of my favorite smells of Italy. Leather. Leather worked as belts, purses, shoes, backpacks, hats and even bracelets. Geo. F. Trumper's Spanish Leather in my mind is really Italian at its roots. Rich to the touch, sensual to the smell, Italian leather works are so entrancing as is this beautiful fragrance from London. One of my favorite leather fragrances that it right up there with other class acts such as Aramis, Valentino Uomo and Dior Homme. Bravo Geo F. Trumper Hai conquistato il mio cuore al primo odore.

If you want to smell like British 'Old Money', despite its name, this is it. Deeply fresh and aromatic with herbaceous rosemary, and an Earthy green patchouli. Warmly spiced with cloves. Sweetened with a gentle, almost ethereal touch of rose and flowers. And here is the magic... SOAPY, creamy glory from musks, lavender, vanilla, and sandalwood. This is a real signature scent. For the refined man. It's just powerful enough to entice those around you for 4-6 hours before becoming the most glorious skin accord. It has pops of 'old world' while remaining fresh, clean, and modern. A smooth operator. You'll feel like a Captain of Industry after applying this. And no... it doesn't smell of leather ;)